Fertilizing with high light. - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-12-2010, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Fertilizing with high light.

I have been maintaining an algae free tank for some time now, but I am now experiencing several types of algae, and it is more than likely caused by lack of fertilizers to my light ratio.

Currently I'm sitting at about 5.8WPG. (2x 96w CF)
I dose 20ml solution KNO3 3x a week
12ml solution KH2PO4 3x a week
1/16 tsp dry K2SO4 3x a week
5ml traces 3x a week
GH boost 1x a week
Flourish Iron 3x a week with my trace.

Mon - Trace + Flourish Iron (about 2mL)
Tue - 2 solutions + 1 dry
Wed - Trace + Flourish Iron
Thurs - 2 solutions + 1 dry + GH boost
Fri - Trace + Flourish Iron
Sat - 2 solutions + 1 dry
Sun - 40-50% W/C

Repeat.

I am currently injecting about 3-4BPS through a inline reactor, and have very little surface agitation. My output is sitting about 3" below water line.

I have my lights on timers, 10.5 hours a day. (11am to 9:30P) as well as the CO2. When the lights go off, I have an air pump blowing into a ceramic diffuser causing surface agitation to please my fish.

I feed 3x a week with flake, 3x a week with tubifex worms and 1x a week with bloodworms

My substrate is a mixture of mineralized topsoil with a bit of dolomite, and red flourite, topped with 3m colorquartz black sand.

All my plants are affected, see below.






What are causing this algae? How much more fertilizers should I use based on the amount of light I am emitting? I'd like to note that the bulbs are less than a month old.

My SAE's hate the BBA. And I have no tests to check for the fert levels, or co2 for that matter.

I've actually seen a increase in the brown algae since introducing metricide (flourish excel replacement) to the tank to try and battle the BBA.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-12-2010, 11:47 PM
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Is your tank a 33 gallon tank, only 12 inches high? Even if it were 20 inches high you would have high light intensity, but at 12 inches you are up in the reef tank intensity area. I doubt that avoiding algae is going to be possible with that much light. You will still have high light if you use only one of those 96 watt PC bulbs, assuming a pretty good reflector is used.

You also should get a drop checker, which is very cheap, and use that with 4 dKH reference water in it, to determine roughly how much CO2 you have in the tank water. When you have high light intensity you need to have the CO2 level as high as you can get it without gassing the fish. And, it would help a lot if you were to change your filter outlet a bit, so it causes some surface ripple all over the water surface. That will help get more dissolved oxygen into the water so the fish can tolerate the CO2 better. Remember, CO2 is cheap, so using more isn't a big deal.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 12:50 AM
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I am no expert but you have too much light and not enough water movement. I would cut the light time back, cut the wattage back, and move the light higher.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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You are right Hoppy, it is a 33g tank. I will get myself a drop checker, and kill one light. I also set the timers to 9 hours. (12 to 9pm) The lights have high polished aluminum reflectors (coralife 36" 2x 96w 6700K) and are yes, sitting right on top.

What about just running an air pump full time for water ripple? Using a ceramic diffuser?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 01:31 AM
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an air pump is just going to off gas your co2. No no no.

You need to deal with the light, lower the time, and even raise it. H202 might help you recover a little quicker.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
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Off gas? But by how much? My CO2 goes through a reactor which breaks it down to the point that I have no bubbles coming from the outtake. I may have loss, but I am going to start cranking it up.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 02:28 AM
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An air stone will lose most of your co2. There is no good way to do that. You'd have to dump a TON of co2 into your tank.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 02:50 AM
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Air stones are only good at night, with the CO2 off. You don't want to break up the water surface, just increase its area by adding ripples all over it. I found it easiest to do that by directing a Koralia powerhead so it caused the ripple. But, I have also used the canister filter return the same way.

A 12 inch high tank almost requires that any T5 or PC light fixture be hanging well above the top of the tank. That does make it a lot easier to do maintenance in the tank, so it isn't a disadvantage.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 03:13 AM Thread Starter
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The room I have the tank in has a sloped ceiling, which prevents me from having it hang or be any higher than it is, unfortunately ;( I would prefer it higher up for as you say, making maintenance in the tank a lot easier. Whenever I went to get at something I have to move the lights. It's a real pain, but unfortunately not much choice in the matter.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 11:15 PM
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You could hang from the sloped ceiling... Just requires different cable lengths.... Could also use conduit arms...

Anyways, don't limit yoru co2. Cut back lighting.
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