Help me get plants from decent to good (or better) - The Planted Tank Forum
 10Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: GTA, Canada
Posts: 26
Help me get plants from decent to good (or better)

Hi everyone! I've been mostly lurking for a few weeks, and an occasional visitor for a few months prior to that.
Been in the hobby for less than 2 years, planted fw communities the whole time.


This thread is about my 33gal. Lots of pics below.

I'm having gsa issues, and some leaf-eating where I don't think there should be any. Here's some info on the tank.
  • 36x12" footprint, 18" high
  • Set up in Feb 2018
  • No CO2
  • Light: Current USA Planted +Pro, 70% power. Photoperiod is 3.5 hrs on, 2 off, 4.5 on.
  • PFS substrate (nepheline syenite)
  • Seachem root tabs every 3-4 months
  • Liquid fertilizer is a bit of a black box. I get a macro+micro all-in-one blend from a local aquarist. By his description it's like seachem comp, but more concentrated. FWIW I dose 10mL twice per week. I also dose 2mL of Seachem nitrogen twice per week (day after fert).
  • Dominant plants (strong growers) include Anacharis, Amazon sword, jungle val, bronze crypt, dwarf sag, dwarf tiger lily, Limnophila sessiliflora. Also dwarf water lettuce and salvinia up top. And some java moss. All of these produce new leaves/growth frequently, appear to have excellent colour.
  • Slower growing plants include needle fern (new leaves pale), anubias nana (new leaves pale), water sprite (generally poor growth, browns quickly), and AR mini. (Yes, I included the water sprite here, I just can't get it to thrive).
  • Livestock: 1 med pearl gourami, 7 rummy-nose tetra, 11 med kuhli loach, 2 oto cats, 1 small SAE, dozen amanos, couple of nerite snails.
  • Water: generally about 130ppm tds, pH is around 7.5. GH is 8-9, KH is 5. Nitrates 10-20ppm. I occasionally test PO4, runs around 0.5ppm.
  • Change 30% per week, top offs with RO.
  • Filtration is a Tidal 55 and an AC50.
Other than gsa, I see none of the 'bad' algae types. Which I take as a good sign.
Can anyone suggest, based on the info above and pics attached, if I'm obviously missing something? Obvious deficiencies? Recommended tweaks?
Bit more info:
I recently had a major collapse of my AR mini. I think I went too long between fert tab replacements, and the leaves became irresistible to either or both of amanos and mini ramshorn snails, and they got slaughtered. Torn to tatters over a month or so, had to cut them back to stubs, but they're now regrowing, slowly.
And on the sword the older sword leaves are massively shot-holed, I think that I went too long between fert tab replacements (like the AR mini), and the leaves that are getting eaten were grown during a time of deficiency. New leaves come in with excellent growth, thickness and colour.
I've also had poor success with the water sprite.
The anubias and sword are the ones that show gsa the most, obviously on the oldest leaves.
A final observation: My otos are not doing well, despite the tank being well established. I suspect a lack of food (they're skinny, used to be nice and thick). IMO this tank should be producing tons of diatoms, and algae for them to eat, but just not seeing it.


Thanks for any and all feedback!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5464.jpg
Views:	44
Size:	386.3 KB
ID:	880559  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5466.jpg
Views:	33
Size:	386.7 KB
ID:	880561  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5465.jpg
Views:	35
Size:	256.9 KB
ID:	880563  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5469.jpg
Views:	33
Size:	402.6 KB
ID:	880565  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5347.jpg
Views:	35
Size:	429.8 KB
ID:	880567  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5470.jpg
Views:	33
Size:	410.9 KB
ID:	880569  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5468.jpg
Views:	35
Size:	472.2 KB
ID:	880571  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5471.jpg
Views:	36
Size:	458.7 KB
ID:	880573  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5472.jpg
Views:	31
Size:	377.9 KB
ID:	880575  

OpinionUnFiltered is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:44 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Seattle_Aquarist's Avatar
 
PTrader: (64/100%)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 6,246
Hi @OpinionUnFiltered,

Does look like the ingredients of what you are dosing?

Roy_________
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

75 Gallon, 2X55W AH Supply CF 8800K, 1XFluval F&P 2.0; 45 Gallon Tall, 96Watt AH Supply CF 6700K; 30 Gallon Long; Fluval F&P 2.0; 20 Gallon, 1X26W AH Supply LED; all with CO2 and (Calcined) Montmorillonite Clay
Seattle_Aquarist is online now  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: GTA, Canada
Posts: 26
Hi @Seattle_Aquarist, I was hoping you’d reply. 🙂 We’ve spoken on that other forum, about your low tech hc japan experiment. 🙂
Here’s what I can tell you about the liquid fert I use:
[copied from seller’s page on another forum (not FL)].

“After testing them in my personal tanks and in other hobbyists with packaged fertilizers like Tropica and Seachem, these are what I noticed: - More concentrated.
- No unnecessary marketing additives (ex. amino acids, phytohormones, etc).
- Much better priced per volume and refillable at a lower cost.

Complete Nutrition [seller’s name for his product] - Formula contains both NPK and micros, this personal mix contains more potassium and slightly less micros [than a different micros+K mix]. No ammonium is present. This is a complete fertilization regime for tanks that contain more flora then fauna, or higher lighting tanks. Also has trace amounts of vitamins to improve fauna immune systems and overall health.”
OpinionUnFiltered is offline  
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:47 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Seattle_Aquarist's Avatar
 
PTrader: (64/100%)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 6,246
Hi @OpinionUnFiltered,

I was working with someone on FL from the Toronto area that was also using a "local hobbyist" macro and micro; the post above indicates the nutrients that were in it.

Are you doing weekly water changes? How much? How often?

I see green spot algae on the Anubias leaves, does it also occur on other plants, glass, hardscape?

Roy_________
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

75 Gallon, 2X55W AH Supply CF 8800K, 1XFluval F&P 2.0; 45 Gallon Tall, 96Watt AH Supply CF 6700K; 30 Gallon Long; Fluval F&P 2.0; 20 Gallon, 1X26W AH Supply LED; all with CO2 and (Calcined) Montmorillonite Clay
Seattle_Aquarist is online now  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: GTA, Canada
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle_Aquarist View Post
Hi @OpinionUnFiltered,

I was working with someone on FL from the Toronto area that was also using a "local hobbyist" macro and micro; the post above indicates the nutrients that were in it.

Are you doing weekly water changes? How much? How often?

I see green spot algae on the Anubias leaves, does it also occur on other plants, glass, hardscape?

Well, I've never seen his exact recipe, but it's an all in one mix, and the details you provided above look like separate dosing for macros vs micros. So pretty sure it's not the same supplier. I'm open to changing methods, if that's where this goes.



Yes gsa on the anubias, it also appears on older sword leaves (grows more like a mat, or more evenly covering leaf surface), and on older dwarf sag leaves, but not as bad or as obvious as the anubias. There is a tiny bit of gsa on the bronze crypt, but it's hard to see, and I don't think it's heavy/dense. I rarely see gsa on the glass, as in almost never. And not on wood either.



I change 30% weekly. Religiously. With a sand substrate I don't have to vac often, but I do when it's required. As part of the weekly change.
OpinionUnFiltered is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 06:42 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Seattle_Aquarist's Avatar
 
PTrader: (64/100%)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 6,246
Hi @OpinionUnFiltered,

OK, I took some of your photos, downloaded them, enhanced them, added arrows and numbers.....here they are.


The photo above shows all three (3) of the symptoms that I saw in your photos. The #1 Arrow is pointing to spots of necrosis (dead tissue) on the older leaves of the sword plant - and indication of insufficient potassium (K). The #2 arrow points to interveinal chlorosis (yellow areas between green leaf veins) also on the older leaves, this is a symptom of insufficient magnesium (Mg). The #3 arrow points to the green spot algae (GSA) on the older leaves of the sword plant which could indicate insufficient phosphorus (P).


The photo above shows the Cryptocoryne wendtii. Notice how the leaf margins are curled under and also the 'puckering' that is occurring at the arrow? Both of these are a symptoms of insufficient magnesium (Mg).


The last photo above shows arrow #3 pointing at excellent examples of GSA but more importantly it shows two leaves of anubias both labeled #2. The #2 arrow on the right is a newer leaf showing little to no signs of interveinal chlorosis while arrow #2 on the left shows the interveinal chlorosis starting to develop. I wanted to see a newer leaf on the anubias to verify that the interveinal chlorosis was not a result of insufficient iron which shows up on new / newer leaves.

#1.
Quote:
D. Leaf chlorosis is not the dominant symptom. Symptoms appear on older leaves at base of plant.

2. Necrotic spots develop on older leaves

a. Margins of older leaves become chlorotic and then burn, or small chlorotic spots progressing to necrosis appear scattered on old leaf blades. Calcium excess impedes uptake of potassium cations.... potassium deficiency

Potassium deficiency symptoms first appear on the recently matured leaves of the plant (not on the young, immature leaves at the growing point). In some plants, the first sign of potassium deficiency is a white specking or freckling of the leaf blades. With time, the symptoms become more pronounced on the older leaves , and they become mottled or yellowish between the veins and scorched at the margins. These progress inward until the entire leaf blade is scorched. If sodium cations are present and taken up in place of K+1, leaf flecking (necrotic spots scattered on leaf surface) and reduced growth occur. Potassium is phloem retranslocated from old leaves to new growth.
#2
Quote:
II. Symptoms do not appear first or most severely on youngest leaves: Effect general on whole plant or localized on older, lower leaves.

C. Interveinal chlorosis. Interveinal chlorosis first appears on oldest leaves.

1. Older leaves chlorotic, usually necrotic in late stages. Chlorosis along leaf margins extending between veins produces a "Christmas tree" pattern. Veins normal green. Leaf margins may curl downward or upward with puckering effect. Necrosis may suddenly occur between veins. Potassium or calcium excess can inhibit uptake of magnesium...magnesium deficiency

When the external magnesium supply is deficient, interveinal chlorosis of the older leaves is the first symptom because as the magnesium of the chlorophyll is remobilized, the mesophyll cells next to the vascular bundles retain chlorophyll for longer periods than do the parenchyma cells between them. Leaves lose green color at tips and between veins followed by chlorosis or development of brilliant colors, starting with lower leaves and proceeding upwards. The chlorosis/brilliant colors (unmasking of other leaf pigments due to the lack of chlorophyll) may start at the leaf margins or tips and progress inward interveinally producing a "Christmas" tree pattern. Leaves are abnormally thin, stems are brittle and have a tendency to curve upward. Stems are weak, subject to fungus infection, usually leaves drop prematurely.
#3
Quote:
II. Symptoms do not appear first or most severely on youngest leaves: Effect general on whole plant or localized on older, lower leaves.

D. Leaf chlorosis is not the dominant symptom. Symptoms appear on older leaves at base of plant.

1. Plant dark green

a. At first, all leaves are dark green and growth is stunted. Purple pigment often develops in older leaves, particularly on the underside of the leaf along the veins...Leaves drop early... phosphorous deficiency

Phosphorus deficiency is not readily identified by visual symptoms alone. Visual symptoms of phosphorus deficiency are not always definite, but many phosphorus deficient plants exhibit off-color green foliage with purple venation, especially on the underside of leaves, and plants are stunted and remain stunted even when fertilizers supplying potassium and nitrogen are applied. Older leaves assume a purple-bronze color. Small growth, especially root development; spindly growth with tips of older leaves often dead. Phosphorus is phloem retranslocated from older leaves to new growth.
As for suggestions on how to resolve these issues I suggested increasing the dGH by 2.0 degrees by adding Seachem Equilibrium which contains potassium, magnesium, calcium, manganese, and iron. Do an initial dose of 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons. Then, when you do weekly water changes add 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons of new water added.

Now the hard part.......waiting! The existing leaves will not change, and may actually continue to decline. Watch the new leaves after you start dosing. As the new leaves mature they should remain straighter, greener, and not develop the spots of necrosis nor the interveinal chlorosis. As for the phosphorus issue I suspect the "homemade" Flourish Comprehensive-like fertilizer. Flourish Comprehensive has very little phosphorus (or other macro-nutrients) btw. I suggest switching to nilocG.com Thrive C which is for tanks with a pH greater than 6.8. Chances are when you switch to Thrive C you will be able to discontinue the Flourish Nitrogen. Questions, just ask! -Roy

Roy_________
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

75 Gallon, 2X55W AH Supply CF 8800K, 1XFluval F&P 2.0; 45 Gallon Tall, 96Watt AH Supply CF 6700K; 30 Gallon Long; Fluval F&P 2.0; 20 Gallon, 1X26W AH Supply LED; all with CO2 and (Calcined) Montmorillonite Clay

Last edited by Seattle_Aquarist; 04-17-2019 at 11:18 PM. Reason: ..
Seattle_Aquarist is online now  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: GTA, Canada
Posts: 26
@Seattle_Aquarist, I can't tell you how much I appreciate the time you've put into your reply. I have a terrestrial hort background, so your details concerning new vs old growth (ie nutrients that are mobile vs not), chlorosis, specific nutrients, and waiting for results are all well received. And I have equilibrium on hand, so will start that with my next water change.
I'm surprised you recommend the ThriveC. As I understand from other reading, it's less concentrated than normal Thrive, and has glut. Have I got that right? Do you think it's the better choice for my setup?
Can you suggest how many weeks the 500mL size of ThriveC would last me, on a 33gal tank?
Would it be worth going to dry mixes? Is there still an all in one option with dry mixes?
Thx again, so very much!!
RCB likes this.
OpinionUnFiltered is offline  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 09:58 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Seattle_Aquarist's Avatar
 
PTrader: (64/100%)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 6,246
Quote:
Originally Posted by OpinionUnFiltered View Post
@Seattle_Aquarist, I can't tell you how much I appreciate the time you've put into your reply. I have a terrestrial hort background, so your details concerning new vs old growth (ie nutrients that are mobile vs not), chlorosis, specific nutrients, and waiting for results are all well received. And I have equilibrium on hand, so will start that with my next water change.
I'm surprised you recommend the ThriveC. As I understand from other reading, it's less concentrated than normal Thrive, and has glut. Have I got that right? Do you think it's the better choice for my setup?
Can you suggest how many weeks the 500mL size of ThriveC would last me, on a 33gal tank?
Would it be worth going to dry mixes? Is there still an all in one option with dry mixes?
Thx again, so very much!!
Hi @OpinionUnFiltered,

Your background in Hort will serve you well in this hobby. Sometimes I hesitate to talk about mobile vs non-mobile nutrients with newer forum members. I recommended the Thrive C because of the DTPA iron, which is more readily available to plants in applications where the pH > 6.8. The regular Thrive is roughly twice as strong as Thrive C however it uses both ETDA iron chelate and DEPA iron chelate. You can certainly go with the regular Thrive however watch for signs of iron deficiency. In theory they both dose for 2500 gallons. According to the nilocG.com website Thrive C "It also contains a non-glut based source of bio-available carbon which provides 2-3x the amount of other carbon supplements."

Dry ferts are fine, I've used them for years because I have 5 planted tanks (175 gallons total) and liquid ferts started to 'break the bank' when I started up my 2nd tank.

Roy_________
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

75 Gallon, 2X55W AH Supply CF 8800K, 1XFluval F&P 2.0; 45 Gallon Tall, 96Watt AH Supply CF 6700K; 30 Gallon Long; Fluval F&P 2.0; 20 Gallon, 1X26W AH Supply LED; all with CO2 and (Calcined) Montmorillonite Clay

Last edited by Seattle_Aquarist; 04-17-2019 at 11:19 PM. Reason: ..
Seattle_Aquarist is online now  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: GTA, Canada
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle_Aquarist View Post
Hi @OpinionUnFiltered,

Your background in Hort will serve you well in this hobby. Sometimes I hesitate to talk about mobile vs non-mobile nutrients with newer forum members. I recommended the Thrive C because of the DTPA iron, which is more readily available to plants in applications where the pH > 6.8. The regular Thrive is roughly twice as strong as Thrive C however it uses both ETDA iron chelate and DEPA iron chelate. You can certainly go with the regular Thrive however watch for signs of iron deficiency. In theory they both dose for 2500 gallons. According to the nilocG.com website Thrive C "It also contains a non-glut based source of bio-available carbon which provides 2-3x the amount of other carbon supplements."

Dry ferts are fine, I've used them for years because I have 5 planted tanks (175 gallons total) and liquid ferts started to 'break the bank' when I started up my 2nd tank.

Okay, thanks (again!).

1. Start dosing Equilibrium @ 1tsp/10gal. So 3 tsp initial dose in my 33 gallon (less a bit for substrate etc), then 1tsp per week with my 10gal changes.

2. Observe.
3. Start looking for the best rates on ThriveC (I hear and accept your arguments in favour of this over regular). Not likely to be acquired in the short term - I have quite a few aquarium projects "on the go" and am trying to save where I can. But I'll get some before my current batch of liquid runs out.
Seattle_Aquarist likes this.
OpinionUnFiltered is offline  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 01:47 PM
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Manchester TN
Posts: 76
Great thread, even for us stupid people. Pics are awesome.
Seattle_Aquarist, tredford and RCB like this.
redneck joe is offline  
post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: GTA, Canada
Posts: 26
Hey @Seattle_Aquarist.
So it’s happened again. My AR mini were recovering, slowly. Last night I noticed they have been eaten (?) again. Trying to figure this out.
In my first post, there are 2 pics of the minis; in one they are taller, but massively shredded, in the other they are shorter, with new leaves at the top. I didn’t pull any of them up, but cut them to 1” or so, which is where the regrowth started. I’ve attached a 3rd pic of these from just last night. P
I’m looking at three possibilities regarding what’s going on, I would appreciate any opinion or suggestion you can offer.
1. Mini ramshorn snails. I have a decent population of these, you can see examples on the sword pics in first thread.
2. Amanos. About a dozen in this tank. However, given that the AR mini leaves were in reasonably good condition immediately prior to my noticing they had been torn up again, I don’t think I’m Amanos have the tools to do this kind of damage.
3. Something entirely flora related, with no fauna component. I don’t have any specific ideas here, just putting it out as a possibility.
Thx!!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	804592AE-7C1C-4E18-9AB1-60472FAAB3BF_1555680162330.jpeg
Views:	46
Size:	2.35 MB
ID:	880705  

OpinionUnFiltered is offline  
post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 05:24 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Seattle_Aquarist's Avatar
 
PTrader: (64/100%)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 6,246
Quote:
Originally Posted by OpinionUnFiltered View Post
Hey @Seattle_Aquarist.
So itís happened again. My AR mini were recovering, slowly. Last night I noticed they have been eaten (?) again. Trying to figure this out.
In my first post, there are 2 pics of the minis; in one they are taller, but massively shredded, in the other they are shorter, with new leaves at the top. I didnít pull any of them up, but cut them to 1Ē or so, which is where the regrowth started. Iíve attached a 3rd pic of these from just last night. P
Iím looking at three possibilities regarding whatís going on, I would appreciate any opinion or suggestion you can offer.
1. Mini ramshorn snails. I have a decent population of these, you can see examples on the sword pics in first thread.
2. Amanos. About a dozen in this tank. However, given that the AR mini leaves were in reasonably good condition immediately prior to my noticing they had been torn up again, I donít think Iím Amanos have the tools to do this kind of damage.
3. Something entirely flora related, with no fauna component. I donít have any specific ideas here, just putting it out as a possibility.
Thx!!
Hi OpinionUnFiltered,

The leaves may have looked good but how about the stems? When there is a lack of magnesium it is not uncommon for stems to develop fungus issues. I've had stems become soft and mushy; not necessarily the whole stem, sometimes just sections. Eventually that part of the stem separates and what remains is shorter. When I look around for the top parts of the stems, sometimes with very healthy looking leaves, I find them elsewhere in the tank.
Quote:
Stems are weak, subject to fungus infection, usually leaves drop prematurely.

Roy_________
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

75 Gallon, 2X55W AH Supply CF 8800K, 1XFluval F&P 2.0; 45 Gallon Tall, 96Watt AH Supply CF 6700K; 30 Gallon Long; Fluval F&P 2.0; 20 Gallon, 1X26W AH Supply LED; all with CO2 and (Calcined) Montmorillonite Clay
Seattle_Aquarist is online now  
post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 02:13 AM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: GTA, Canada
Posts: 26
I didn’t know that about Mg issues. One more tid-bit in my tool chest. 🙂
But with my AR minis I’m reasonably sure the leaves are coming apart while the stems are and remain intact. I see fragments of the broken/torn/shredded leaves floating about the tank, but not the stems.
Do you think ongoing nutrient issues could make the leaves either more attractive to, or less well defended from, the mini snails?
OpinionUnFiltered is offline  
post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 04:02 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Seattle_Aquarist's Avatar
 
PTrader: (64/100%)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 6,246
Hi @OpinionUnFiltered,

I don't keep shrimp, and none of my 5 tanks have snails however when I did have snails years ago I never had them shred a leaf. Thin leaves are also a symptom of insufficient Mg.

Roy_________
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

75 Gallon, 2X55W AH Supply CF 8800K, 1XFluval F&P 2.0; 45 Gallon Tall, 96Watt AH Supply CF 6700K; 30 Gallon Long; Fluval F&P 2.0; 20 Gallon, 1X26W AH Supply LED; all with CO2 and (Calcined) Montmorillonite Clay
Seattle_Aquarist is online now  
post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: GTA, Canada
Posts: 26
Alright, so hopefully fixing this Mg issue will help protect the next gen of leaves.
I’ll see how the overall recovery goes, and keep you (and other readers) posted.
Thx again 🙂
Seattle_Aquarist likes this.
OpinionUnFiltered is offline  
Reply

Tags
None

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
'Forest Bend' 120 gallon journal Axelrodi202 Tank Journals 50 01-01-2018 12:02 AM
Guide to Starting a Freshwater Aquarium (including Planted Tanks) librarygirl General Planted Tank Discussion 13 06-06-2017 08:03 PM
Heard about the aquatic plant ban in Texas? Your state next? bobalston General Planted Tank Discussion 45 01-22-2011 09:15 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome