Looks like a good plan. I would put primary emphasis on light and CO2. Make sure those are doing what you think they are doing. Other nutrients become fairly simple once those two variables are optimized. Make sure that your circulation is good. I try to get all parts of my plant, from top to bottom, just barely moving and maintain a good cleaning regimen, including the filter (I clean mine every couple of weeks). Many of us also do a 50% water change weekly.
Light: assuming you are going for maximum growth, you can use as much PAR as you wish with injected CO2, once your tank can handle it, but throttle it through the photoperiod. Example: I currently use 50 PAR, at the substrate, for 2 hours (viewing purposes), then a 4 hour siesta, followed by 140 PAR at the substrate for 7 hours, but I have a heavy biomass. So long as I run all of my parameters at a steady state, I have virtually no algae (my ramshorns help, considerably, in the prevention of algae formation). In your case, I would try to target a part of your initial photoperiod (maybe 2 hours) at 100% of your light’s capacity, surrounded by, perhaps, 40-50% capacity by two hours on each end. Once you reach your target biomass, you can gradually increase this. Dimmers are optional, but I do think they benefit both plants and fish.
CO2: make sure that you do your best to identify your actual CO2 level (which will always be an approximation). The easiest way to ballpark this is to target a minimum 1-point pH difference between a sample of your tank water allowed to sit out for a few days (fully degassed) and your fully gassed tank. Be sure that the KH of both samples are the same. Some of us, like me, go a little higher. You will also have to increase your CO2 injection, as your biomass increases, to maintain the targeted CO2 level.
Fertilizer: your tap water may already have many of the traces needed, as well as sufficient Ca and Mg and your fish food will provide many, including N and P. However, in a high tech setup, this will usually need to be supplemented. All in all, it is a good idea to gain an understanding of what is in your tank water as a result of the combination of tap water, fish food and other organics. To do this, you have to test.
Monitor your NO3, PO4, GH, KH and pH. TDS is also good to know. Then, you can decide how much N, P and K to add. Use this calculator to decide how much of any of the macros (including Ca and Mg) and micros you need to add: https://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php
. The Tropica products are fine and many of us customize ferts with powdered salt versions. You'll have to decide how deep you want to get into this.
I’d remove the Purigen, unless you need it. Purigen is great at reducing nitrogenous organics, but I’d let your tank run with the organics before deciding if it’s needed. Plants like a lot of that early nitrogen stream that Purigen removes. If you can’t get nitrates where you want them, then Purigen might be a good option.
Here are several good guides that you may find very useful: