Planted tank brainiacs required! Light, ferts! All the specs are there, Is my plan any good??? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-11-2020, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Question Planted tank brainiacs required! Light, ferts! All the specs are there, Is my plan any good???

Hello all,

Could any of you guru's out there comment my plan please? Still a newbie... All the specs(or most of them if forgot something) should be there. Thank you in advance!

So, I am setting up a new tank approx. 16-17g and I am looking for advice regarding establishing a tank, light cycle, ferts and dosing. I have done it in the past but it was a bumpy ride. I am quite confused with the process of getting the right light cycle, I think I should be aiming to run 8-10 hours light. I am thinking starting at around 6 hours cycle and going up from that. The other thing is that the light as 7 level (See PAR Below). Should I starting low with light level and light cycle or going with or another?

Anyway here is what I planned. Could any of you comment on that please as I still consider myself newbie?

MY PLAN:

1: For light, I am thinking setting it at level 4 which would give about 70 PAR, middle reading for my tank and starting at 6 hours a day and going up 30 every other week until plants establish.

2: For Co2, 20-30ppm

3. For dosing I am debating buying tropica's NPKM fertilizer. I have the KM version as of right now and I don't think I will get that bright lush growth. So my thought is dosing NPKM 6ml a week when i do the water change. does that make sense?


SPECS:

Tank dim: 24W 12L 14H
Light is Chihiros A-serie 601, 8000K sitting 2 inches above the tank. (See PAR reading below)
Filter is Eheim 2215, With coarse pad, Eheim bio media, Seachem purigen and fine filter floss.
Co2 injection

Dosing Tropica Liquid premium nutrition : Contain Iron and manganese but no nitrogen and phosphate.


Light PAR level
This is taken from another hobbyist. The data is measured at 12 inches depth, middle of the tank.

Level 1: 8.5 PAR
Level 2: 30 PAR
Level 3: 49 PAR
Level 4: 70 PAR
Level 5: 90 PAR
Level 6: 105 PAR
Level 7: 130 PAR


Plant list

- Glossostigma
- Monte-carlo
- Crypto hobbit
- Staurogyne repens
- Lobelia Cardinalis
- Rotala vietnam
- Hygrophila Araguaia
- Pogostemon erectus
- Alternanthera Reineckii

Substrate

Will be using Seachem Flourite Substrate (Clay based soil)
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 04:47 PM
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@Tigerbarbs99,

Looks like a good plan. I would put primary emphasis on light and CO2. Make sure those are doing what you think they are doing. Other nutrients become fairly simple once those two variables are optimized. Make sure that your circulation is good. I try to get all parts of my plant, from top to bottom, just barely moving and maintain a good cleaning regimen, including the filter (I clean mine every couple of weeks). Many of us also do a 50% water change weekly.

Light: assuming you are going for maximum growth, you can use as much PAR as you wish with injected CO2, once your tank can handle it, but throttle it through the photoperiod. Example: I currently use 50 PAR, at the substrate, for 2 hours (viewing purposes), then a 4 hour siesta, followed by 140 PAR at the substrate for 7 hours, but I have a heavy biomass. So long as I run all of my parameters at a steady state, I have virtually no algae (my ramshorns help, considerably, in the prevention of algae formation). In your case, I would try to target a part of your initial photoperiod (maybe 2 hours) at 100% of your light’s capacity, surrounded by, perhaps, 40-50% capacity by two hours on each end. Once you reach your target biomass, you can gradually increase this. Dimmers are optional, but I do think they benefit both plants and fish.

CO2: make sure that you do your best to identify your actual CO2 level (which will always be an approximation). The easiest way to ballpark this is to target a minimum 1-point pH difference between a sample of your tank water allowed to sit out for a few days (fully degassed) and your fully gassed tank. Be sure that the KH of both samples are the same. Some of us, like me, go a little higher. You will also have to increase your CO2 injection, as your biomass increases, to maintain the targeted CO2 level.

Fertilizer: your tap water may already have many of the traces needed, as well as sufficient Ca and Mg and your fish food will provide many, including N and P. However, in a high tech setup, this will usually need to be supplemented. All in all, it is a good idea to gain an understanding of what is in your tank water as a result of the combination of tap water, fish food and other organics. To do this, you have to test.

Monitor your NO3, PO4, GH, KH and pH. TDS is also good to know. Then, you can decide how much N, P and K to add. Use this calculator to decide how much of any of the macros (including Ca and Mg) and micros you need to add: https://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php. The Tropica products are fine and many of us customize ferts with powdered salt versions. You'll have to decide how deep you want to get into this.

I’d remove the Purigen, unless you need it. Purigen is great at reducing nitrogenous organics, but I’d let your tank run with the organics before deciding if it’s needed. Plants like a lot of that early nitrogen stream that Purigen removes. If you can’t get nitrates where you want them, then Purigen might be a good option.

Here are several good guides that you may find very useful:

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/8...-aquarium.html

https://www.advancedplantedtank.com/

https://sites.google.com/site/aquati...ertilizer/home
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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@Deanna

Thank you so much for your time! This is the level of depth I was looking for!

For the light period, I very much like the idea of doing 50% -> 100% -> 50% light cycle as you mentioned. I also think this could benefit the organism as it emulate natural conditions. Although, I don't think I will follow this method as my light as manual dimmer only (Can't be programmed). For me, manual handling a light cycle can't equal consistency. I could get a new light but the way I understand it, it is optional.

Thanks again for the sources and tips. Will dive into that!

Cheers
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigerbarbs99 View Post
my light as manual dimmer only (Can't be programmed)
I believe that this programmable dimmer/timer (which is what I use on my Twinstar) also works on the Chihiros: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

Perhaps others will chime in on timers they know to work, as well.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 10:51 PM
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make sure you do a fishless cycling on your tank before proceeding. scape your tank, install filter, fill with water, a pinch of fish food every other day. no need lights, co2, and ferts.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanna View Post
I believe that this programmable dimmer/timer (which is what I use on my Twinstar) also works on the Chihiros: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

Perhaps others will chime in on timers they know to work, as well.
@Deanna
Didn't even knew that these existed, I feel stupid. Thank you!

Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by moke View Post
make sure you do a fishless cycling on your tank before proceeding. scape your tank, install filter, fill with water, a pinch of fish food every other day. no need lights, co2, and ferts.
@moke
The said tank has already been running with a couple of plants and my cleanup crew for a month or two. The filter will already be colonized which I assume will make cycling faster. I was planning to start right off with a low light schedule, low ferts, and ramping up, basically the plan as stated above. Does that make sense?

Cleanup Crew
11 Amano shrimps
3 Clithon snails
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-13-2020, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigerbarbs99 View Post
@Deanna
Didn't even knew that these existed, I feel stupid. Thank you!

Bump:
@moke
The said tank has already been running with a couple of plants and my cleanup crew for a month or two. The filter will already be colonized which I assume will make cycling faster. I was planning to start right off with a low light schedule, low ferts, and ramping up, basically the plan as stated above. Does that make sense?

Cleanup Crew
11 Amano shrimps
3 Clithon snails

yes, cycling will be relatively quick. your plan looks good. patience goes a long way in this hobby.
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