SB Reef Light ?s - The Planted Tank Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-03-2020, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
FishFinatic's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 45
SB Reef Light ?s

I've been banging my head against the wall trying to figure out what lights to go with. I had another thread going, but thought a new more focused discussion was appropriate.

I've thought about going the DIY route, but time is not on my side at the moment. After some great suggestions, I am really leaning toward SB Reef Lights Freshwater line. https://sbreeflights.com/sbox-freshw...-16-timer.html

My questions are around the timers and wifi. I plan to use a very capable Aquarium Controller (open to suggestions) and was wondering if the built in timers or wifi on the lights is necessary. I could save almost $200 per light by just going with the basic model.

I am very interested in tracking everything I can through computer software, but if I use a good controller wouldn't I be able to use that in place of the built in timers and maybe even wifi? What advantage is there with purchasing the timer and wifi versions?

This light will be going on an 8' X 3' X 2' tank. Can I get away with two of the 32" models? Or should I go with two of the 45" models? I don't plan on going super "high tech" out of the gate, but I am looking for some flexibility in that department. Probably be more in the moderate light requirement range....

Last edited by FishFinatic; 07-03-2020 at 03:20 PM. Reason: .
FishFinatic is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-04-2020, 12:19 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 11,896
Quote:
Originally Posted by FishFinatic View Post

My questions are around the timers and wifi. I plan to use a very capable Aquarium Controller (open to suggestions) and was wondering if the built in timers or wifi on the lights is necessary. I could save almost $200 per light by just going with the basic model.

I am very interested in tracking everything I can through computer software, but if I use a good controller wouldn't I be able to use that in place of the built in timers and maybe even wifi? What advantage is there with purchasing the timer and wifi versions?

There is generally no problem in converting the manual dim ones to something fancy..
Just for fun there is a 3 pt series in the wifi .

You still have a geometry problem w/ that wide of a tank..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"

Last edited by jeffkrol; 07-04-2020 at 05:34 AM. Reason: edit
jeffkrol is online now  
post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-06-2020, 04:59 PM
Planted Member
 
Botia dude's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Livermore, CA USA
Posts: 288
Quote:
Originally Posted by FishFinatic View Post
I've been banging my head against the wall trying to figure out what lights to go with. I had another thread going, but thought a new more focused discussion was appropriate.

I've thought about going the DIY route, but time is not on my side at the moment. After some great suggestions, I am really leaning toward SB Reef Lights Freshwater line. https://sbreeflights.com/sbox-freshw...-16-timer.html

My questions are around the timers and wifi. I plan to use a very capable Aquarium Controller (open to suggestions) and was wondering if the built in timers or wifi on the lights is necessary. I could save almost $200 per light by just going with the basic model.

I am very interested in tracking everything I can through computer software, but if I use a good controller wouldn't I be able to use that in place of the built in timers and maybe even wifi? What advantage is there with purchasing the timer and wifi versions?

This light will be going on an 8' X 3' X 2' tank. Can I get away with two of the 32" models? Or should I go with two of the 45" models? I don't plan on going super "high tech" out of the gate, but I am looking for some flexibility in that department. Probably be more in the moderate light requirement range....
Having had a 16" SBReef FW version before and knowing how much spread you'll get, I think you're going to need 5X32" fixtures to adequately cover that size tank. The fixtures mounted back to front to cover the 3 feet with each one covering roughly 20 inches left to right.

You may find the less expensive option to be 4-6 T5HO bulbs for each 4 foot section if you dig into the horticultural world for inexpensive 4 foot fixtures. Of course replacing bulbs every 12-24 months will add to the cost long term.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Botia dude is offline  
 
post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-07-2020, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
FishFinatic's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Botia dude View Post
Having had a 16" SBReef FW version before and knowing how much spread you'll get, I think you're going to need 5X32" fixtures to adequately cover that size tank. The fixtures mounted back to front to cover the 3 feet with each one covering roughly 20 inches left to right.

You may find the less expensive option to be 4-6 T5HO bulbs for each 4 foot section if you dig into the horticultural world for inexpensive 4 foot fixtures. Of course replacing bulbs every 12-24 months will add to the cost long term.
Thanks for the info. So am I understanding you correctly that the effective spread width is only 20"? I couldn't find anything on the website with a spread estimate, but that is less than I was hoping for sure.
FishFinatic is offline  
post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-07-2020, 04:53 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 11,896
Quote:
Originally Posted by FishFinatic View Post
Thanks for the info. So am I understanding you correctly that the effective spread width is only 20"? I couldn't find anything on the website with a spread estimate, but that is less than I was hoping for sure.
Spread, of course, is dependent on height and lensing..


Anyways went a different direction.. Call it "semi-DIY" and really came up w/ nothing err pleasant, but since I did the footwork I suppose it's worth mentioning..


Simplest techy thing, as stated before, is a warm white cool white light.
So just went to some sources to see what was available.


first catch is due to the low wattage (and output) one needs a butt load of diodes..but
what you don't have in individual strength you make up for in volume..


First in the sort of creme de la creme and due to sheer cost not recommended BUT:
https://store.waveformlighting.com/c...d-strip-lights
Problem of course is one needs about 6 5m reels..$834..
98.4 ft 44280 lumens 541W 22.6A 14 rows @ 7ft
Plus power supply(ies) and controller
https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-SE-...JWVJP5XC93ZYAW
$88.92.

Soo lowered my expectations a bit (>80 CRI but not likely 95+) for fun..
6 reels..(same 5M each)

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...of/5608/12546/


$479.70
17.22A (413.28W) total 34,302 lumens..
https://www.amazon.com/Meanwell-Encl.../dp/B00GPWTMUQ


Power supply $89.99

TC-420 can handle up to 20A (4A per channel 5 channels)


Fun thing is you just need to parallel a few strings and stick them on a hunk of aluminum..


Need to work out a few details such as the strip lengths/channels ect..
You only run 1/2 of the strip
.175A/ft /2 (1/2 cw/1/2ww)

1/2 of 6 7ft strips per TC-420 channel
I'd need to confirm these numbers.. think you'd need to limit it to 12 strips @7ft not 14 though that would leave 4A for "something else. like a red or ???
21ft of one "color" per tc-420 channel.
Actually maybe not..IF it's .0875A per foot per type of white you can run about 45ft per channel. That's not right..

My head hurts..Will get back to this.


Max run is listed as 10M.. Suppose copper resistance starts taking its toll.

36 LEDs/ft. But I assume that is for both err "channels" so 18 cool white/18 warm white.
2.7W for each.. 5.4W total
175mA/ft or 87.5mA/ft per white
45.7ft = 4A per color channel (6m or 1/2 of 12M)
4 groups of 12 strips


Numbers for the "cheap" reels btw..



Being constant voltage strips cheap controllers are common w/ many going to 6A or more
per channel,

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"

Last edited by jeffkrol; 07-07-2020 at 05:22 AM. Reason: edit
jeffkrol is online now  
post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-07-2020, 05:13 AM
Planted Member
 
Botia dude's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Livermore, CA USA
Posts: 288
Quote:
Originally Posted by FishFinatic View Post
Thanks for the info. So am I understanding you correctly that the effective spread width is only 20"? I couldn't find anything on the website with a spread estimate, but that is less than I was hoping for sure.
I got about 2 inches spread beyond the ends of the light and about 20 inches or so with the light mounted about 10-12 inches above the surface. I did use the stock lenses so if you remove those you'll get better spread. Not very hard to do.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Botia dude is offline  
post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-07-2020, 05:39 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 11,896
Quote:
Originally Posted by Botia dude View Post
I got about 2 inches spread beyond the ends of the light and about 20 inches or so with the light mounted about 10-12 inches above the surface. I did use the stock lenses so if you remove those you'll get better spread. Not very hard to do.
You know I've got a question regarding their lenses.
On the Marine version they list 90's for high k white/blues/violets w/ the rest being 120 degrees BUT no listing on the fw ones.
Do you suspect they are err what?


Logically they would seem to be all 120 degrees. some of these cheap lenses its almost impossible to tell the difference between 120 and 90.

Ppoint is I'm really not sure pulling lenses would change much except by blocking the light in the diode holes. Diodes should be 130 natively BUT again ???

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"
jeffkrol is online now  
post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-07-2020, 01:27 PM
Planted Member
 
Botia dude's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Livermore, CA USA
Posts: 288
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
You know I've got a question regarding their lenses.
On the Marine version they list 90's for high k white/blues/violets w/ the rest being 120 degrees BUT no listing on the fw ones.
Do you suspect they are err what?


Logically they would seem to be all 120 degrees. some of these cheap lenses its almost impossible to tell the difference between 120 and 90.

Ppoint is I'm really not sure pulling lenses would change much except by blocking the light in the diode holes. Diodes should be 130 natively BUT again ???
Honestly Jeff I'm not sure. I thought they were all 90 degrees when I had it. Even on the FW. I read that pulling the lenses on the ends would give you a couple inches more spread from a few posts around the web. Never did try as I didn't really "need" to do it. So I won't argue one way or the other at this point as I haven't kept up with info on them. Perhaps they've changed the lenses or used 90 vs 120 degrees at different times?

When I upgraded to a 36x22x22 tank I would have needed 2 more for good coverage so I sold it and went with 2 AI Prime FW.

I loved the light when I had it except for the limited spread. It had great punch for depth and the reds... that light grew the reddest plants I've ever seen. Last I heard, the guy I sold it to still uses it and loves it as well.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Botia dude is offline  
post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-07-2020, 02:11 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 11,896
Quote:
Originally Posted by Botia dude View Post
Honestly Jeff I'm not sure. I thought they were all 90 degrees when I had it. Even on the FW. I read that pulling the lenses on the ends would give you a couple inches more spread from a few posts around the web. Never did try as I didn't really "need" to do it. So I won't argue one way or the other at this point as I haven't kept up with info on them. Perhaps they've changed the lenses or used 90 vs 120 degrees at different times?

When I upgraded to a 36x22x22 tank I would have needed 2 more for good coverage so I sold it and went with 2 AI Prime FW.

I loved the light when I had it except for the limited spread. It had great punch for depth and the reds... that light grew the reddest plants I've ever seen. Last I heard, the guy I sold it to still uses it and loves it as well.

Thanks..
Just for reference. May need to contact sbreef for fw:
Quote:
4. Why do you have split optics?
90* optics provide the best penetration for max PAR. 120* lenses give the best coverage and color blend. The trick is to use both, 90* to provide the PAR and PUR needed for growth while using 120* for color blend and on single diodes that need to cover a larger area, like UV. All 14K, 20K whites plus all 450nm Royal Blues are 90*. All other diodes are 120* Since there are more Whites and blues, the light has tremendous PAR and PUR, yet does not have the disco ball effect most LEDs have. This is due to the 120* on the reds, Green, Teals, Violets, Warm Whites and true UV. Since all of the 120* colors are needed in the same intensity as the 450nm and 14K/20K, it creates the perfect balance and ideal spectrum. There is just enough 660nm Red to encourage fast growth, without too much which would cause odd corallite density and growth, plus encourage nuisance algae. The 520nm Green is for aesthetics only. The 420nm and 395nm contribute to both coral growth and coloration.
Soo 120 on violets so my bad..actually above has contradictions..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"
jeffkrol is online now  
post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-07-2020, 08:23 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (7/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,583
Hmm what's the point of a 120mm lens when pretty much every diode is 120mm stock lens. Would be much better served using no lenses and instead using a diffuser panel as the splash guard.
gus6464 is online now  
post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-07-2020, 08:33 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 11,896
Quote:
Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
Hmm what's the point of a 120mm lens when pretty much every diode is 120mm stock lens. Would be much better served using no lenses and instead using a diffuser panel as the splash guard.
Well since their pedigree is the "black box assembly lines" that use 90's on 99% (or more.. ) of them easier just to pick and place (most likely cheap manual labor) 120's instead..
That 1" or so in depth may also block a bit of edge light. Lenses put the output aperature on the face of the light instead of inside the light..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"
jeffkrol is online now  
post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-07-2020, 09:52 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (7/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,583
Hmm to me the new Bridgelux Thrive mini (nano?) cobs are the new benchmark for performance per dollar. Dirt cheap, and if underdriving have a massive 145-150 lm/watt which can be cooled with very little material.
gus6464 is online now  
post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 04:39 PM
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 241
T5 guy here. All your worries about coverage are solved with two four foot, 8 bulb T5 Hydroponic fixtures. You can always run less bulbs but you'll have the option to spread them out.
mboley is offline  
post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 05:58 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (7/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,583
Quote:
Originally Posted by mboley View Post
T5 guy here. All your worries about coverage are solved with two four foot, 8 bulb T5 Hydroponic fixtures. You can always run less bulbs but you'll have the option to spread them out.
Plus the units will still be worth something after he's done with with them unlike Chinese black boxes which are basically disposable unless you sell for pennies on the dollar.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
gus6464 is online now  
post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 03:52 AM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
FishFinatic's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
Hmm to me the new Bridgelux Thrive mini (nano?) cobs are the new benchmark for performance per dollar. Dirt cheap, and if underdriving have a massive 145-150 lm/watt which can be cooled with very little material.
Wheres a good place to learn about these? I'm having trouble finding the Thrives on the website for purchase. Are these available now?
FishFinatic is offline  
Reply

Tags
None

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome