Fluval Plant 3.0 Lighting Schedules and Programming - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-07-2020, 02:38 AM
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Could I get someone to tell me if this is running to hard for a low tech no c02 tank, it's a 55,gallon 18" from substrate to light, anubias is closer to the light as well, if so could one of you programming gurus help me out with modification, I had a stroke in December and have issues, I still have algae issues plants still not rebounding from me being in the hospital, I dose nilcog dry ferts macro and micro, I want to run about 35-50 par I was told but I'm not sure, I have just ferns, anubias, crypts, Amazon sword, rotala rotundifolia, bacopa, money wart, can't get water sprite, Wisteria or vals to even grow in this tank. Much appreciated if someone can help Click image for larger version

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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-07-2020, 07:54 PM
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That would seem to grow plants from the percentages. The graph makes it look almost all red though.

@Streetwise I'm on the fence about getting two more of these for my pair of living room tanks. Not enough coverage currently and I wind up moving them throughout the week. I think with another matching set on each tank, I could run them at half the intensity the main ones are at, and duplicate my siesta. While receiving "pandemic pay" I hate to shell out $300 for accessory lighting, but I can't think of anything else I could set to turn down in unison. Love that the duel siesta is working for you.

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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-07-2020, 09:48 PM
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Below are my settings for 2 x 36" Fluval planted 3.0's on a 36" wide 56 gallon aquarium. Lighting stays low for quite awhile to avoid algae and peak is only one hour. Pure white and warm white are lower because it tend to look too yellowish to my eyes. Night light (1 % blue only) is on for one hour then, lights are off completely. CO2 turns on at 14:30, 1/2 hour before lights reach 10 % brightness.


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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-08-2020, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by p0tluck View Post
Could I get someone to tell me if this is running to hard for a low tech no c02 tank, it's a 55,gallon 18" from substrate to light, anubias is closer to the light as well, if so could one of you programming gurus help me out with modification, I had a stroke in December and have issues, I still have algae issues plants still not rebounding from me being in the hospital, I dose nilcog dry ferts macro and micro, I want to run about 35-50 par I was told but I'm not sure, I have just ferns, anubias, crypts, Amazon sword, rotala rotundifolia, bacopa, money wart, can't get water sprite, Wisteria or vals to even grow in this tank. Much appreciated if someone can help Attachment 899475

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What is the size of your light? I have the 24"-34" model on my 55 gallon corner tank (also 18" from substrate).

Here are a couple things that may be useful (Using the 24"-34" as reference; if you have a different size then these numbers will need to be tweaked).
The PAR of this light at 18" depth is somewhere around 57 par with all the LEDs set to 100% (I'm assuming this is with no glass on top...glass will cut this down by a few par).
• Your light ratios look less than ideal. The app has different presets built in, with optimal light ratios. Go to "Export" at the bottom of the interface and load the "Planted" preset. The Planted preset should provide around 50 par.
• If you want less light, reduce each of the LED colors on the Planted preset downward by the same percentage.
For example, if you want 30 par, reduce each color in the default Planted preset by 40%.
That would be Pink: 51%. Blue: 12%. Cold White: 44%. Pure White: 60%. Warm White: 48%.
• It looks like you are only running your max brightness for 2 hours a day. The rest of the day with reduced percentages is not going to be enough light for a proper photoperiod.

Im growing moneywort, Rotala, hydrocotyl Japan, and water wisteria, no-CO2 low tech, with no problems at this level (and an Anubias in the shadows at the back of the tank).
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-08-2020, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fermentedfunk View Post
What is the size of your light? I have the 24"-34" model on my 55 gallon corner tank (also 18" from substrate).

Here are a couple things that may be useful (Using the 24"-34" as reference; if you have a different size then these numbers will need to be tweaked).
The PAR of this light at 18" depth is somewhere around 57 par with all the LEDs set to 100% (I'm assuming this is with no glass on top...glass will cut this down by a few par).
Your light ratios look less than ideal. The app has different presets built in, with optimal light ratios. Go to "Export" at the bottom of the interface and load the "Planted" preset. The Planted preset should provide around 50 par.
If you want less light, reduce each of the LED colors on the Planted preset downward by the same percentage.
For example, if you want 30 par, reduce each color in the default Planted preset by 40%.
That would be Pink: 51%. Blue: 12%. Cold White: 44%. Pure White: 60%. Warm White: 48%.
It looks like you are only running your max brightness for 2 hours a day. The rest of the day with reduced percentages is not going to be enough light for a proper photoperiod.

Im growing moneywort, Rotala, hydrocotyl Japan, and water wisteria, no-CO2 low tech, with no problems at this level (and an Anubias in the shadows at the back of the tank).
I have the 48" I was told it's closer to 100 par At 18", when I had the 3 hour photo period at 80% I had hard spot algae all over the glass within 4-5 days also increasing the phosphate dosage didn't help neither so I lowered it to 60% which cut down on the hard spot algae, I got this preset from Bently Pascoe's YouTube but it's just to strong I believe, this light is strong unless hard spot can be caused by something else, also what I was told about how this lighting program works is you can run the light longer with lower intensities getting better results, like example the old program if you ran the light for 12 hours with say 80% as you had limited customization you'd have algae soup, with this running it how I am you can get away with running it for 12 hours because of the different intensities? my light when I first programmed it was running for 12.5 hours with a 3 hour 80% intensity and that was way too strong I believe unless again, hard spot is caused by something other than light , and my anubias is not in shadows I was silly and put it higher up In the tank On wood.

My anubias Is wrecked, it has hard spot algae all over it so I'm nursing them back to health.

The real bummer is before my stroke I had it going very well, when I was in the hospital for 9 days someone left the light on 24/7 and also dumped half a huge can of fish flake in the tank, when I got home the tank I didn't think was fixable hair algae 8ft long, green spot almost impossible to scrape off the glass, destroyed the anubias, it's going really slow I probably would of been better off to just buy new anubias and put this stuff in another container instead of nursing it back to health in my main tank, since my stroke I don't have the mental strength to fix it without asking for help, I'll get better but for now I need assistance, so I like how the tank comes on and off, how would I replicate the planted preset the way I have it now with the same on time so I can enjoy it.

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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-08-2020, 11:47 PM
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I have the 48" I was told it's closer to 100 par At 18", when I had the 3 hour photo period at 80% I had hard spot algae all over the glass within 4-5 days also increasing the phosphate dosage didn't help neither so I lowered it to 60% which cut down on the hard spot algae, I got this preset from Bently Pascoe's YouTube but it's just to strong I believe, this light is strong unless hard spot can be caused by something else, also what I was told about how this lighting program works is you can run the light longer with lower intensities getting better results, like example the old program if you ran the light for 12 hours with say 80% as you had limited customization you'd have algae soup, with this running it how I am you can get away with running it for 12 hours because of the different intensities? my light when I first programmed it was running for 12.5 hours with a 3 hour 80% intensity and that was way too strong I believe unless again, hard spot is caused by something other than light , and my anubias is not in shadows I was silly and put it higher up In the tank On wood.

My anubias Is wrecked, it has hard spot algae all over it so I'm nursing them back to health.

The real bummer is before my stroke I had it going very well, when I was in the hospital for 9 days someone left the light on 24/7 and also dumped half a huge can of fish flake in the tank, when I got home the tank I didn't think was fixable hair algae 8ft long, green spot almost impossible to scrape off the glass, destroyed the anubias, it's going really slow I probably would of been better off to just buy new anubias and put this stuff in another container instead of nursing it back to health in my main tank, since my stroke I don't have the mental strength to fix it without asking for help, I'll get better but for now I need assistance, so I like how the tank comes on and off, how would I replicate the planted preset the way I have it now?

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Attachment 899641
The 48" is around 82 par at 18" depth (with all lights to 100%). Fluval didn't publish their par ratings for the 3.0, but they did publish them for the 2.0, so I use those numbers for the guideline (2.0 and 3.0 should be pretty similar performance-wise...some reports say the par rating of the 3.0 is actually a little lower than the 2.0, but only by a small amount if any). So I'd guess it's actually something like 75 par in real world use. That also meshes with the numbers given in this review: https://coolfish.network/fluval-plan...anted-24-7-cc/.

Still, 80% of 75par is 60par...still too bright.

If you want to try ~30 par with that light and mimic the Planted preset ratios, set your brightest period to:
Pink: 34%
Blue: 8%
Cold White: 29%
Pure White: 40%
Warm White: 32%

Also keep in mind that if you target 30par with this setup, you need to keep it at the intensities above long enough for the photoperiod to work. Probably 4 to 6 hours minimum, but safe at 8 hours assuming the rest of the tank is balanced.

And assuming this puts things back in balance, it will take some weeks of consistency to see results. It will take a while for everything to reset and settle in to a new schedule.
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-09-2020, 12:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fermentedfunk View Post
The 48" is around 82 par at 18" depth (with all lights to 100%). Fluval didn't publish their par ratings for the 3.0, but they did publish them for the 2.0, so I use those numbers for the guideline (2.0 and 3.0 should be pretty similar performance-wise...some reports say the par rating of the 3.0 is actually a little lower than the 2.0, but only by a small amount if any). So I'd guess it's actually something like 75 par in real world use. That also meshes with the numbers given in this review: https://coolfish.network/fluval-plan...anted-24-7-cc/.



Still, 80% of 75par is 60par...still too bright.



If you want to try ~30 par with that light and mimic the Planted preset ratios, set your brightest period to:

Pink: 34%

Blue: 8%

Cold White: 29%

Pure White: 40%

Warm White: 32%



Also keep in mind that if you target 30par with this setup, you need to keep it at the intensities above long enough for the photoperiod to work. Probably 4 to 6 hours minimum, but safe at 8 hours assuming the rest of the tank is balanced.



And assuming this puts things back in balance, it will take some weeks of consistency to see results. It will take a while for everything to reset and settle in to a new schedule.
Am I understanding this program wrong? I have the light come on at 25% for an hour then 45% for an hour then 60% for 2 hours then 55% for an hour, then 40% then 30% that's not enough for a photo period?

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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-09-2020, 01:10 AM
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Am I understanding this program wrong? I have the light come on at 25% for an hour then 45% for an hour then 60% for 2 hours then 55% for an hour, then 40% then 30% that's not enough for a photo period?

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With that schedule, using your prior settings, this is what's happening:

1 hour at ~19 par
1 hour at ~34 par
2 hours at ~45 par
1 hour at ~41 par
1 hour at ~30 par
1 hour at ~23 par
1 hour at ~19 par

So if your goal is an 8 hour photoperiod at 30 par, you're only actually getting that for 1 hour. The rest of the time, you're either under or over.

That's one of the issues I have with using really long ramp-up and ramp down times. The vast majority of the photoperiod is spent transitioning through un-optimal light levels rather than aiming for a target and sticking with it.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-09-2020, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fermentedfunk View Post
With that schedule, using your prior settings, this is what's happening:



1 hour at ~19 par

1 hour at ~34 par

2 hours at ~45 par

1 hour at ~41 par

1 hour at ~30 par

1 hour at ~23 par

1 hour at ~19 par



So if your goal is an 8 hour photoperiod at 30 par, you're only actually getting that for 1 hour. The rest of the time, you're either under or over.



That's one of the issues I have with using really long ramp-up and ramp down times. The vast majority of the photoperiod is spent transitioning through un-optimal light levels rather than aiming for a target and sticking with it.
My goal isn't 30 par I don't know what the goal should be someone said for low light 30-50 but i don't honestly know, I'm actually going to upgrade to a 120 gallon with c02 I think as I want a 6ft tank, that's if my testing comes back good, don't want to invest all that money and me not be able to do anything with it , my rotala grow amazing even the bases of the streams aren't bare so I don't want to change to drastically, when I did this setting I had green spot algae in 4-5 days.. Not the 65% one I can't delete that for some reason
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-22-2020, 12:19 PM
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Thank you for the detailed answers, I also couldn't solve such a question. I am new to this business, so it's still difficult for me to solve any problems without the help of professionals. To be honest I'm new to programming and I want to admit that I find it difficult to perform some tasks. So I want to change direction and do network administration. I have already found a service where I can get help preparing for exams (to get 2020 Cisco Certification), but I need good courses from your experience. And if you know something about this, please share it with me.

Last edited by AngelaDavies; 07-02-2020 at 06:58 AM. Reason: to update my post
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-06-2020, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fermentedfunk View Post
With that schedule, using your prior settings, this is what's happening:



1 hour at ~19 par

1 hour at ~34 par

2 hours at ~45 par

1 hour at ~41 par

1 hour at ~30 par

1 hour at ~23 par

1 hour at ~19 par



So if your goal is an 8 hour photoperiod at 30 par, you're only actually getting that for 1 hour. The rest of the time, you're either under or over.



That's one of the issues I have with using really long ramp-up and ramp down times. The vast majority of the photoperiod is spent transitioning through un-optimal light levels rather than aiming for a target and sticking with it.
Sorry for the delayed response had a family is ue, I've changed it to this, it's approx 35-40 par for 4-5.5 hours still trying to learn how this works, would this be sufficient photo period or to much? Blue is still up in the teens should I lower the blue?

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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 03:46 PM
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Uh oh... I've had this light for about a month and a half now and I guess I've been using it wrong.

Currently, I have this light on 100% everything for about 11 hours everyday with a 15 minute ramp up and ramp down included. I thought that the carpeting plants (DBT, Glosso, and DHG) would need the high light that this would offer but it seems that running 100% is not a good idea?

I have a 55 G (48x13x21) that is growing like CRAZY but I also just started getting algae like crazy. Is 100% a bad idea? If so, what are some different programs I can make it where I'll still be able to hit the carpeting plants but not have so much light where algae also thrives?

(Yes CO2 and ferts)
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 04:02 PM
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I can only say that in my own (CO2 and ferts) tanks, they'd be algae farms with these running at 100%. I peak around 70% twice daily holding for about 90 minutes each peak, ramping up and down in between. Maybe tinker with yours and see if you can find a spot where there's good plant growth with less nuisance algae.

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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 05:22 PM
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I can only say that in my own (CO2 and ferts) tanks, they'd be algae farms with these running at 100%. I peak around 70% twice daily holding for about 90 minutes each peak, ramping up and down in between. Maybe tinker with yours and see if you can find a spot where there's good plant growth with less nuisance algae.
I just don't know how much I need to keep the carpeting plants going well. Do you mind throwing in a picture of the settings that work well for you if you get a chance sometime?
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-08-2020, 05:29 PM
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I can but it's not going to be much to go on for your tank. I have fissidens and epiphytes mostly, few stems and nothing carpeting, plus 24" deep tanks. I'm at work and evidently have to be close to my lights to connect before I can screen grab. Will when i get home.

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