T5 vs LED - Page 10 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #136 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-29-2019, 08:12 PM
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I guess my point is this: You should probably get used to LED. You can see the metal halide is becoming more and more difficult to find. T5 will eventually follow this path.
This is probably true.

But with my stash of T5 bulbs, I'm not worried for quite a long time!

That being said, if an LED came along that met ALL of my needs, I would have no problem switching over. Heck, I love gadgets and programming things. But right now the truly great ones I see are DIY.

But I do agree, at some point I think it will be a no brainer.......just not quite there yet IMO.


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post #137 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-29-2019, 08:49 PM
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That being said, if an LED came along that met ALL of my needs, I would have no problem switching over. Heck, I love gadgets and programming things. But right now the truly great ones I see are DIY.

But I do agree, at some point I think it will be a no brainer.......just not quite there yet IMO.
My sentiments exactly
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post #138 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-29-2019, 10:19 PM
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RGB stands for red green and blue. Do you see the difference?


OCW Ocean Coral White LED spectrum: (Your "RGB" recommendation)



RGB LED spectrum: (Ignore the White LED)
I was young back then..

Cyan is blue/green in the higher wavelengths (500nm) make "white "just fine..


Anyways point is if one add any white it has plenty of green. but NO arrays have much in the way of "cyan" but select high CRI LED's


you want better lights think cyan..


simple gro-lux tube.. wide blue/cyan content..

https://www.carnivorousplants.org/gr...escentLighting




Quote:
The reason they are called OCW is because those 3 colors in a single MCPCB very close together produce produce a white light. You can't tell the colors apart when lit. One of those with a green and royal blue LEDs would look nice imo.
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...hite-leds.html

you would be hard pressed to see some cyans as other than "green"

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 11-29-2019 at 10:33 PM. Reason: edit
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post #139 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 12:04 AM
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tagging @Maryland Guppy
pretty sure he still has cobs, maybe veros? iirc
I am cheap, remember!!!

Still using these.


Each disk has 3-full spectrum & 3-15K around the perimeter.
One disk has a green and the other a blue in the center, mounted on heat sink.
All are 3 watt so 42 watts on each heatsink (2 disks), 294 watts over my 80G.
Cost for 1 disks with 7-3watt LED beads is about $0.85 per disk.
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post #140 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 01:08 AM
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I am cheap, remember!!!

Still using these.


Each disk has 3-full spectrum & 3-15K around the perimeter.
One disk has a green and the other a blue in the center, mounted on heat sink.
All are 3 watt so 42 watts on each heatsink (2 disks), 294 watts over my 80G.
Cost for 1 disks with 7-3watt LED beads is about $0.85 per disk.
Nice!
Three questions, was the LED colour selection your choice and does the total voltage and current correspond to the 294 Watts and are you using lenses?

My idea is to try 50W RGB COB chip lights, something like ADA Solar RGB & Kessil A160WE Tuna Sun hybrid. They are on order already and waiting for delivery.


Heat sink 100W with reflector and 60 degree glass lens. This should cover 18” surface diameter at 18” above water line:



Rated triple 48W RGB current limited power supply:



RGB LED COB 50W chip:



Not sure if somebody already tried this configuration with planted aquarium. It should produce 80 – 100 visible PAR, and 200 - 250 white equivalent PAR, at 24” depth, as per Light Calculator.
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Last edited by Edward; 11-30-2019 at 05:05 PM. Reason: ...
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post #141 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edward View Post
Nice!
Three questions, was the LED colour selection your choice and does the total voltage and current correspond to the 294 Watts and are you using lenses?

Not sure if somebody already tried this configuration with planted aquarium. This should produce 200-250 PAR white equivalent at 24” depth, as per https://rotalabutterfly.com/light-calculator.php .
Each 42 watt dual puck heatsink has it's own LDD 700mA driver.
No lenses, all 120 degree cheap 3 watt beads.
All controlled from a StormX controller via PWM dimming.
7 drivers to run my 80G tank @ about $4.50 ea.
Power supply is a 10amp max 52VDC repurposed from work, they destroy label applicator machines by hitting them with fork truck and I confiscate power supplies when they become available.

The Colors:
I solder all of those beads on the disk so I get to pick!
520nm was my last addition and it makes green plants look better.
I never studied plant growth with experiment just tried to make the visual appearance to my liking.
Never worried about CRI rating etc...
Full blast is close to 300PAR @ sub but never ran them that high.
Even though they have fans I was worried about heat and LED lifespan.
PUR is in the high 70's so I'm good with it.
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Last edited by Maryland Guppy; 11-30-2019 at 03:24 AM. Reason: edit
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post #142 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Maryland Guppy View Post
Each 42 watt dual puck heatsink has it's own LDD 700mA driver.
No lenses, all 120 degree cheap 3 watt beads.
All controlled from a StormX controller via PWM dimming.
7 drivers to run my 80G tank @ about $4.50 ea.
Power supply is a 10amp max 52VDC repurposed from work, they destroy label applicator machines by hitting them with fork truck and I confiscate power supplies when they become available.

The Colors:
I solder all of those beads on the disk so I get to pick!
520nm was my last addition and it makes green plants look better.
I never studied plant growth with experiment just tried to make the visual appearance to my liking.
Never worried about CRI rating etc...
Full blast is close to 300PAR @ sub but never ran them that high.
Even though they have fans I was worried about heat and LED lifespan.
PUR is in the high 70's so I'm good with it.

Have those pucks been reliable?

I used to experience failures of the 3W epileds mounted with their star board, but since removing them from the board and gluing them directly to the aluminum, I haven't had a single failure (going on two years?)

In the next iteration of my light, I'm considering clusters of closely spaced LEDS for better color mixing. The pucks would clean up the wiring, but not worth it if they increase the failure rate.

I believe the failures were happening because the leds were coming separated from their boards.


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post #143 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 04:31 PM
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Have those pucks been reliable?
The disks have never required replacement. Remember I solder these myself.
Some LEDs have been replaced mostly due to splashing of water from spraybar.
I remedied the spraybar issue and no more.

3 watt LED loss in a year, maybe 2-3 single beads fail.
I keep extra assemblies so I swap out the entire heatsink and all.
Once a year I add the required 3 watt beads.

Small price to pay for cheap lighting.
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post #144 of 174 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 05:15 PM
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Speaking from an industrial point of view: LED is the future and you will be forced into it. HID lighting (Fluorescent and Metal Halide) are being obsoleted at a rapid pace. Many manufacturers are stopping production of these as LEDs are becoming so popular. I can't speak to our consumer market entirely, but I know GE and several other big names have stopped producing industry lighting (like highways and such) of anything but LEDs already.

Gotta wait for the DIY hobbyists to lead the way so that companies can start mass producing the good stuff though!


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post #145 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-02-2019, 06:16 PM
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The problem is that LEDís are not a broad spectrum light. An while they do fine for our bad human I sight. Plants and corals have much picker needs. Human eyesight is not a good indicator of spectrum of light or the strength of light.
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post #146 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-02-2019, 06:30 PM
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The problem is that LED’s are not a broad spectrum light. An while they do fine for our bad human I sight. Plants and corals have much picker needs. Human eyesight is not a good indicator of spectrum of light or the strength of light.

Depends on the led ..Phosphor converted LED's can have very broad spectrums..
Green LED's have a inherently sloppy spectrum but inefficient..


But yea human eyesight isn't very quantitative..


Anyways Luminous devices LED's


t5's/MH's are just a "collection" of peaks..
Phosphors do spread them out a bit..

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 12-02-2019 at 06:52 PM. Reason: edit
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post #147 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 01:38 AM
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Having kept reef tanks forever I have used every type of light available. It all depends on what you will let go. In reef tanks itís growth. Not all coral types grow well under LEDís they may survive but steady growth can be a challenge.
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post #148 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 02:44 AM
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I am a purely LED user. I think it was easier to grow difficult plants with my old T5HO set up and 6300k geissman bulbs than it is my $200 plus LED fixtures (kessil, twinstar (several), UNS titan). However, I appreciate the lower heat output, power savings, and low profile offered by LED. If I were light a larger tank, greater than 30g I would reach for T5s again. However, LEDs are quite cost effective for lighting smaller tanks and I only have 3 tanks, each of which are less than 25g.
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post #149 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019, 12:57 AM
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Setting up a new 75 gal


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post #150 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019, 01:14 AM
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Setting up a new 75 gal
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