DIY Lighting For Planted Tank (LED Lights With Liquid Cooling) - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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DIY Lighting For Planted Tank (LED Lights With Liquid Cooling)

Hello everyone.

I'm planning to build a custom lighting for my new 108L (28.5 gallons) Tank.

Dimensions of the Tank (RS - 700EL)
Length - 70cm (27.55 inches)
Width - 36cm (14.17 inches)
Height - 59cm (23.22 inches)

A. Light source - Planning to use LED Beads

Q1. Are 3W LED beads sufficient for the depth of my tank? If not what Wattage beads I should use?
(I intend to grow a carpet of Dwarf Baby Tears and Dwarf Hair Grass and no CO2 )

Q2. How many LED Beads I need to use for my tank and in what combination of Cool White, Warm White, Blue & Red (any other spectrum if necessary)?
(Since the length of the tank is 70cm, I think a 55cm long tube will be sufficient considering I need to build a water in-flow and out-flow attachment for the heat sink)

Q3. What should be the color temp for each of these beads?

Q4. What driver I should use after calculating the above-required number of LED beads?

B. Base for LED Beads - Aluminum / Stainless Steel Tube

Q5. If I can use 3W LED beads, does it require a heat sink to cool it off?

Q6. If the heat sink is necessary can I cycle Tank water through the aluminum tube? Will, there be any corrosion in Aluminum and that, in turn, will poison my tank water? If yes what alternative material I can use? Stainless Steel?

Q7. While using the tank water as heat exchange media in the heat sink, will it make a substantial difference in the temperature of tank water considering my tank volume is 108L

These are the few questions bugging in my mind. Your input will be of great help.
Regards


PS: Im not an electrical engineer. So if you guys can give additional pointers on circuit/wiring the LED beads, it will be of great help.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 02:25 PM
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Let's start w/ a picture:

Is currently running fine on a 40B w/ "PAR" of about 35 at the substrate..
Depth penetration and intensity is dependent on density and lensing..
I can get more PAR in a small area farther away w/ a 1W flashlight than a more spread 3W LED..

At the densities you need liquid cooling is really unnecessary..but running water through sq aluminum tubing is fine I suppose.
I consider it more of a complication..

Go through this..
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...w-build-4.html

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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@jeffkrol

The beads, are they of 1W?

Here is my layout.
Click image for larger version

Name:	Light Layout.jpg
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ID:	885161
Total of 31 LED on 1-inch wide tube.

Assuming I use 1W LED and a 45 lens, at 2 feet depth light disperse size is 19 inches and my tank width is just 14 inches. Is that sufficient?

Regarding liquid cooling, my aquarium is a molded glass with lid. I do not intend to remove the lid. I will check on the temp and see if the liquid cooling is required.

Do advice on the LED layout if any changes required.

Bump: Planning to buy the LED from the following link.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32832790224.html
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinay021 View Post
@jeffkrol

The beads, are they of 1W?

Here is my layout.
Attachment 885161
Total of 31 LED on 1-inch wide tube.

Assuming I use 1W LED and a 45 lens, at 2 feet depth light disperse size is 19 inches and my tank width is just 14 inches. Is that sufficient?

Regarding liquid cooling, my aquarium is a molded glass with lid. I do not intend to remove the lid. I will check on the temp and see if the liquid cooling is required.

Do advice on the LED layout if any changes required.

Bump: Planning to buy the LED from the following link.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32832790224.html

Your leds look to end up being like at most 3" off the water line.. Wouldn't use lenses.
45 degrees will have 2 1/2 inch circles at the water surface..
Won't cover a 14" width till about 15 inches down..

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
Your leds look to end up being like at most 3" off the water line.. Wouldn't use lenses.
45 degrees will have 2 1/2 inch circles at the water surface..
Won't cover a 14" width till about 15 inches down..
No lens then. Should I go for 3W instead of 1W?

Just out of curiosity, using UV LED beads (as available in the aliexpress link), is it beneficial?
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinay021 View Post
No lens then. Should I go for 3W instead of 1W?

Just out of curiosity, using UV LED beads (as available in the aliexpress link), is it beneficial?

well..technically.. it's more 3W class vs 1w class..
Real watts are dependent on driver and the voltage of the diode..


If you plan on incorporating dimming then 3W..
As an example most of those survive best at like 500mA of drive current.

W/ a V(f) of say 3.6V at 500mA they are only 1.8W

Double post but will give me a space to make a comment on chip selection..
Personally royal blue isn't needed since every white has a whole bunch..

Whats missing in whites is usually violet, reg. blue, cyan, and deep red (ignoring non-visible "colors" for now)..
http://spectra.1023world.net/

Play w/ the above calculator and use the "LED" colors..

Estimate w/ color substitutions.. (blue, 660nm red)
Quote:
* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
LED Blue (470nm) [120] x5
LED Cyan (500nm) [120] x4
LED DeepRed (660nm) [120] x6
LED CoolWhite (8000K) [120] x8
LED WarmWhite (3000K) [120] x8
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux : 2,323 lm
Radiant flux : 10,273 mW
PPF : 46.8 umol/s
TCP : 8470 K
CRI : 83
λp : 663 nm
Color : #DBCBFF
----------------------------------------

* PERFORMANCE @ 30cm
----------------------------------------
Irradiance : 12.1 W/m/s
Illuminance : 2,739 lx
PPFD : 55.2 umol/m/s
If you switch the ratio of blue to cyan to be 5 cyan 4 blue you increase CRI to 90..and lower K temp to 7350.
NOW just rough estimates.. diodes vary quite a bit ..

Oh and high energy chips i.e. rb to violet to UV need to run lower currents (except RB) to slow the eventual lens browning from photons of the cheap lens material..

As a DIY, recommend getting a few extra violets if use them.
Actually eliminating blue chips and using 420 violets in their place is quite effective in many areas..
Quote:
* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
LED Violet (420nm) [120] x4
LED Cyan (500nm) [120] x5
LED DeepRed (660nm) [120] x6
LED CoolWhite (8000K) [120] x8
LED WarmWhite (3000K) [120] x8
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux : 2,240 lm
Radiant flux : 10,310 mW
PPF : 46.2 umol/s
TCP : 6850 K
CRI : 95
λp : 663 nm
Color : #FFCFE8
----------------------------------------

* PERFORMANCE @ 30cm
----------------------------------------
Irradiance : 12.2 W/m/s
Illuminance : 2,641 lx
OH and YES all my diodes are "3W class"..

ABOVE calc uses all 1W diodes btw..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."

Last edited by Darkblade48; 09-04-2019 at 01:34 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
Double post but will give me a space to make a comment on chip selection..
Personally royal blue isn't needed since every white has a whole bunch..

Whats missing in whites is usually violet, reg. blue, cyan, and deep red (ignoring non-visible "colors" for now)..
SPECTRA

Play w/ the above calculator and use the "LED" colors..

Estimate w/ color substitutions.. (blue, 660nm red)


If you switch the ratio of blue to cyan to be 5 cyan 4 blue you increase CRI to 90..and lower K temp to 7350.
NOW just rough estimates.. diodes vary quite a bit ..

Oh and high energy chips i.e. rb to violet to UV need to run lower currents (except RB) to slow the eventual lens browning from photons of the cheap lens material..

As a DIY, recommend getting a few extra violets if use them.
Actually eliminating blue chips and using 420 violets in their place is quite effective in many areas..


OH and YES all my diodes are "3W class"..

ABOVE calc uses all 1W diodes btw..
After reworking on the LED combination decided to go with the following.

Click image for larger version

Name:	WhatsApp Image 2019-08-21 at 7.44.20 PM.jpg
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ID:	885785

Couldn't find 8000k LED. So going with 10000K and 6500K.

Now a technical question bugging me is what kind of driver I should use. My knowledge is near to zero when it comes to Volts, current, etc.

Specification of the LED I'm going to use is as follows.

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/a...1&d=1566397307

I'm going to us a total of 31 LED - 3.2 to 3.6V & 700mA each.
If I want to use a dimmer what kind of driver I should use? I tried to get some info. but the terms constant current, constant voltage, etc. confused me.

Please guide me further on this...

Bump: Will this suit my need

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3291...714b32598iCvCt
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Views:	15
Size:	699.1 KB
ID:	885787  

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 06:38 PM
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Easiest and most "customary" driver is Meanwell LDD's
There are multiple types of packages and voltage input ranges and current out..

Easiest to use (well sort of cheapest more than easy due to less "parts") are LDD-HW and in your case at 700mA
Add V(f's) on series strings to stay within your chosen power supply parameters..
Usually 48V to minimize drivers..

W/ Ldd's that gives you 48-4V(driver overhead so to speak) 44V

12 Diodes w/ a V(f) of 3.6V @ 700mA = 43.2V

Voltage adds in series.. i.e +..-..+..- ect.
Current divides in parallel (can ignore this atm)

W= V X A.. about all you need to know to calculate power demand on the power supply..

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 10:21 PM
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Hi folks, @vinay021 hope you don't mind me wading in here!
After resurrecting my vision 180 and finding the original lamp unit is duff, I am considering building my own lamp unit. Just wondering if anyone has experience with these ebay EPI LED's, specifically the 5w ones!? I figure 10 cool/warm will give me approximately 5000 lumens (if the specs are anything like) which will bring it in line with the T5's I had, then the reds/violets would be a bonus.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1W-3W-5W-...r=511478215877
Any thoughts?

Last edited by [email protected]@; 08-28-2019 at 10:50 PM. Reason: missed link
post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 04:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected]@ View Post
Hi folks, @vinay021 hope you don't mind me wading in here!
After resurrecting my vision 180 and finding the original lamp unit is duff, I am considering building my own lamp unit. Just wondering if anyone has experience with these ebay EPI LED's, specifically the 5w ones!? I figure 10 cool/warm will give me approximately 5000 lumens (if the specs are anything like) which will bring it in line with the T5's I had, then the reds/violets would be a bonus.
[Ebay Link Removed]
Any thoughts?

They work fine....

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
Easiest and most "customary" driver is Meanwell LDD's
There are multiple types of packages and voltage input ranges and current out..

Easiest to use (well sort of cheapest more than easy due to less "parts") are LDD-HW and in your case at 700mA
Add V(f's) on series strings to stay within your chosen power supply parameters..
Usually 48V to minimize drivers..

W/ Ldd's that gives you 48-4V(driver overhead so to speak) 44V

12 Diodes w/ a V(f) of 3.6V @ 700mA = 43.2V

Voltage adds in series.. i.e +..-..+..- ect.
Current divides in parallel (can ignore this atm)

W= V X A.. about all you need to know to calculate power demand on the power supply..
I have selected the following 2 drivers. I chose these because of the AC input.

For 25 of 31 LEDs (6 CW, 5 W, 5 WW, 4 UV and 5 C)
V(f) = 3.6V x 25nos = 90V
W = 3.6V x 0.7W x 25nos = 63W

Click image for larger version

Name:	18-30 3W Driver.jpg
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ID:	886519

18-30x3W Driver
Input Voltage: AC 85V~277V
Output Voltage: DC 54-105V
Current: 600mA5%
Efficiency > 90%
Power Factor >0.95
Operating Temperature: -20~80

For the rest 6 of the 31 LED (6 Deep Red)
V(f) = 2.6V x 6nos = 15.6V
W = 2.6V x 0.7W x 6nos = 10.9W

Click image for larger version

Name:	6-10 3W Driver.jpg
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ID:	886521

6 to10 x 3W Driver
Input Voltage: AC 85V~277V
Output Voltage: DC 18-34V
Current: 600mA5%
Efficiency > 86%
Power Factor >0.95
Operating Temperature: -20~80

Is it a good choice to go with these? Or do I need to balance out the leds instead of 25 to 6? Other variants of the drivers that are available are as follows

Name:  Driver choice.jpg
Views: 95
Size:  46.4 KB

Now I need to select a dimmer.

I was looking at the following dimmer. Again confused on the technical part.

Click image for larger version

Name:	Dimmer.jpg
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ID:	886525

My guess is that this will not work for the above setup

Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected]@ View Post
Hi folks, @vinay021 hope you don't mind me wading in here!
After resurrecting my vision 180 and finding the original lamp unit is duff, I am considering building my own lamp unit. Just wondering if anyone has experience with these ebay EPI LED's, specifically the 5w ones!? I figure 10 cool/warm will give me approximately 5000 lumens (if the specs are anything like) which will bring it in line with the T5's I had, then the reds/violets would be a bonus.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1W-3W-5W-...r=511478215877
Any thoughts?
Not at all...
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 03:12 PM
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AFACT those are constant current un-dimmable drivers.
So no... dimmer won't work. or any other for that matter.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
AFACT those are constant current un-dimmable drivers.
So no... dimmer won't work. or any other for that matter.
Re-worked the layout and reduced the number of LED to 25.

Click image for larger version

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ID:	886867

Will this be enough for my tank size?

The driver for the above is MEAN WELL LRS-35-48 48V 0.8A meanwell LRS-35 48V 38.4W Single Output Switching Power Supply

Link to the product page - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32767596902.html

Is this driver dimmable?

Bump: Do divers come with an inbuilt dimmer? If it does that would save me some space and clutter.

I'm planning to use 2 of those drivers. One for CW, W & WW and the other for DR, C & UV.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 04:07 PM
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Sorry that is a switching power supply not a driver ....


A ac/DC "driver" will have a listed voltage range like 24-55V DC and output current i.e 500mA..

If it lists one voltage output it's not a "driver"...

Power should be good though tanks a bit deep..Depends on the diode efficiency..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."

Last edited by jeffkrol; 09-11-2019 at 04:50 PM. Reason: edit
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
Sorry that is a switching power supply not a driver ....


A ac/DC "driver" will have a listed voltage range like 24-55V DC and output current i.e 500mA..

If it lists one voltage output it's not a "driver"...

Power should be good though tanks a bit deep..Depends on the diode efficiency..
Is this the right driver? Please tell me it is. If I have to search anymore I'm sure Volts and Watts will pave its way into my Financial Reports.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32880405987.html
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