Need help in choosing lights - The Planted Tank Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Norway
Posts: 10
Lightbulb Need help in choosing lights

I bought a used Wromak 750L (~200gallon) bowfront tank with a plastic top and lights, but the lights are in really bad condition.

This is the tank: Helglass buet 750L

https://images.finncdn.no/dynamic/16..._251847230.jpg

There you can see the canopy thing on top. Its plastic lids and 2 metal braces going along the tank.

They were attached to a metal brace, just sliding in and im looking for some led replacements thats not going to break the bank. They will be inside the plastic top so watertightness is a must, also the tank is 70cm deep (27 inches).

Cant figure out what the metal bracing system is either =\

I want to do planted witch Co2 injection, so medium light ish.

Im trying to figure out how to place the lights, an idea is to attach them to the old metal bracing in some way.

Anyone have some recommendations?

Would the Beamswork DA FSPEC 180cm be a good light? I could maybe attach it to the metal brace in some way.
Or maybe go for two shorter ones.

Last edited by Brolsk; 05-15-2019 at 02:26 PM. Reason: Added info
Brolsk is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 03:30 PM
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Maryland
Posts: 633
You would need more than 1 of those for a 27" deep tank :/ but I don't think beamsworks are exactly waterproof, can deal with some splashing maybe...

I don't know if pictures of this metal brace you're talking about would help or not, but if it's inside of a plastic canopy it probably isn't that crazy to attach a light as it doesn't matter too much what it looks like.
Wobblebonk is offline  
post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 06:00 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 10,837
Only watertight fixtures I know of are the Fluvals..
Newest Finnex's are supposed to be better but don't know their rating..

Bracing is to stop the glass from bowing out..structural..

Though there are some ways to attach the lights to the bracing, certainly not "the best" ideas
Best woud be to mount them to the top of the plastic hood (if there is one..)

If not the top is just like a tank rim..
79" span for the length of the tank..

2 72" Beamsworks would set you back about $280...
Quote:
72" DA 180 176x - 8000 lumen 102x 10000K, 32x Actinic, 22x Red, 26x Green
72" DA 180: 72.50" x 5.25" x 1.00"
X2
16000 Lumens

4 waterproof fluvals @ 36" would set you back $640
https://www.aquariumcoop.com/product...=7437902413854
13,200 lumens

https://www.aquariumcoop.com/product...=7437902413854

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."

Last edited by jeffkrol; 05-15-2019 at 06:05 PM. Reason: edit
jeffkrol is online now  
 
post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Norway
Posts: 10
https://imgur.com/gallery/3d61Kdf Here are pics of the metal braces thats a part of the plastic canopy. I thought about waterproof since they would be over the water inside and thought about condensation. Measured again and top of tank to top substrate would be 24inches. Hope this helps.

The old light fixtures would slide onto that metalpiece

Last edited by Brolsk; 05-15-2019 at 06:07 PM. Reason: Edit
Brolsk is offline  
post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 06:54 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 10,837
LOL, at first I thought you were referring to the"semi euro" brace ON the tank..

anyways you could zip tie LED fixtures to those metal strips..

Since they look to be aluminum you could just thermal glue LED COB's to them and a real heat sink to the top..
DIY isn't horrible if kept simple..
https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/p...SAAEgIfRvD_BwE

Sticking those on the bars is a relatively simple build..

not sure how the whole units assembld (hood and strips) since it's all a bit out of context..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."
jeffkrol is online now  
post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 06:55 PM
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Maryland
Posts: 633
So there's just one of these across the top of the plastic hood? I don't see why you couldn't tap some screwholes... or make holes for zip ties, either to directly hold the lights if there's multiple of these, or to hold some perpendicular flat things to attach the lights to.

The fluvals are 15% off still @ kensfish with coupon code 'fluval' if you decide to go that route
Wobblebonk is offline  
post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Norway
Posts: 10
The assembly of the canopy is basically the wall around in one piece then plastic lid - metal brace - plastic - metal brace - plastic so it forms a top. Thanks for the DIY option, think it would be ok for condensation? Fluval is unfortunately too expensive as i havent found a seller in Norway
Brolsk is offline  
post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 07:17 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 10,837
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brolsk View Post
The assembly of the canopy is basically the wall around in one piece then plastic lid - metal brace - plastic - metal brace - plastic so it forms a top. Thanks for the DIY option, think it would be ok for condensation? Fluval is unfortunately too expensive as i havent found a seller in Norway

Only thing exposed would be the LED boards themselves...All electrical stuff would be remote.
wouldn't be too difficult to cut clear plastic to slide into the rails from the prev light though clearance is ?? atm


Will need to think about the boards a bit.. LEd's by themselves are pretty sealed by their own lens capsule..

OK you can get housings for 24mm wide Bridgelux EB strips (as well as for the smaller "ribbon LEDs)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PC...837515803.html
27mm max..
https://www.bridgelux.com/sites/defa...%20Rev%20A.pdf

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."

Last edited by jeffkrol; 05-15-2019 at 07:52 PM. Reason: edit
jeffkrol is online now  
post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Norway
Posts: 10
Thanks! 😄 i will do some digging at work and see what options i have for diy. Thanks for taking the tile for finding the links

Ok, so i have been googling around most of the day and i think i`ve settled on 8x Bridgelux EB, 4 - 5700k and 4 - 5000k. Struggling to figure out what drivers and stuff to use. Im guessing i would need 1 driver for each of the 4 pairs. Going to mount 4 each to the two metal braces in the channel housing you linked. Preferably i want options to dim the lights if thats possible.

This is for the 56 cm version BXEB-L0560Z-xxx2000-C-B3

Last edited by Darkblade48; 05-17-2019 at 12:02 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
Brolsk is offline  
post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 12:00 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 10,837
Typical voltage is 19.5 @ 700mA...
2 in series is 39V soo 48V power supply..

suggest keeping to spec but your call..
Up to 1200mA is possible (still easily in the 48V ps range) though you'd prob need to be more careful of heat..
192W so 200W ps is usable but close..
4 drivers..

Manual dimmers are cheap.. but need to be modified to "do" 5V pwm

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/2...mer-ldd-h.html

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."
jeffkrol is online now  
post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Norway
Posts: 10
Could i run them all in parallell and drive them with https://www.meanwell-web.com/en-gb/a...hlg--240h--24b and use a 100k potmeter for dimming?

Last edited by Brolsk; 05-17-2019 at 12:49 PM. Reason: Edit
Brolsk is offline  
post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 02:10 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 10,837
10/8 = 1.25A each strips..
If one goes "open" for some reason
10/7= 1.42A each remaining ect..

Need the "A" or "AB" version though.

Not a "standard" method of driving them though..
There are issues of current balance across the 8 and of course over driving if strips fail.
Sometimes people stick fuses at the ends of the strips to protect from over current.

Between that and power supply/4 Meanwell LDD's cost is usually similar.

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."
jeffkrol is online now  
post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 02:47 PM
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Maryland
Posts: 633
When you use the CV potentiometer, in the CV+CC models does it just stop the V from going over a certain point? Would that stop it from mattering too much about one dying?

I've only used straight CV or CC models of these :/
Wobblebonk is offline  
post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Norway
Posts: 10
Ok so i thought i would need 4 psu for the seriell connection, seems i confused psu and LDD. So i can run 8 ldd and 1 psu? Sorry if im thickheaded, new to this stuff 😛
Brolsk is offline  
post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 03:10 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 10,837
Ok.. as I understand it..

Power supply will maintain constant voltage (@100%) until current demand exceeds 100% of rated.
Then it will throttle the voltage so as not to exceed that current set point..

In other words it's just a switching power supply till the amp "demand" exceeds the set point..

Under 10A draw.. always 24V..
Over 10A draw buck voltage down till reaches 10A..

In the under 10A draw constant voltage range usually need a constant current DC/DC driver added on the end..or things like resistors on the
strings..

the hiccup region is when the driver goes below nominal voltage @ 10A or greater.. In this case 12V..

So no paralleling single diodes...

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."
jeffkrol is online now  
Reply

Tags
None

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
NEW LED Lights - 5 modes Marty Lighting 30 06-26-2015 04:03 AM
PAR Readings for BuildmyLED.com lights jfynyson Lighting 0 06-14-2013 04:30 PM
AH SUPPLY lights are an overlooked gem... hedge_fund Lighting 12 05-30-2013 02:39 PM
Timer for 2 sets of lights? Cochepaille Lighting 21 05-10-2012 10:02 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome