Fluval Plant 3.0 vs Current Satellite Plus Pro - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 03:27 AM Thread Starter
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Fluval Plant 3.0 vs Current Satellite Plus Pro

I'm trying to decide between the Fluval 3.0 and Current USA Satellite Pro Plus. The 48" is about the same price for each although I think the Pro Plus has higher PAR values and possibly better coverage. This would be for a medium and low light 55 gal tank with C02. I like the ramp timers and adjustment features on each. Any insight or recommnedations would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 04:40 AM
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Hi @Trailmixguy,

Here are a couple of threads that may help you!
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...new-model.html

This thread is a comparison of Fluval 2.0 vs Current and Finnex; the points are all still relevant but the 3.0 is much more versatile.
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...0-fixture.html

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75 Gallon, 2X55W AH Supply CF 8800K, 1X 59W Fluval Plant (3.0); 45 Gallon Tall, 1X 46W Fluval Plant (3.0); 30 Gallon Long; Fluval F&P 2.0; 20 Gallon, 1X26W AH Supply LED; all with CO2 & (Calcined) Montmorillonite Clay
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 04:53 AM
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Well "the big" difference, I guess is Fluval has
Cold white
Pure white
warm white
blue
and "pink" (blue plus red or real pink?)

Sat plus pro has
red
Green
Blue
and white (lets call it cool white)

The colors are reportedly relatively weak emitters so it's a wee bit weak in k shifting


Fluval has a waterproof rating.. Current not so much..
Fluval has a better warranty.

Both have only 4 time slots (AFAICT)
Won't go into more of the programming since I'm not familiar enough w/ them.

Both about the same wattage in their respective size classes.
Current being one row will have less spread front to back compared to the multi-row Fluval..

current plus pro is more expensive normally.
https://www.aquariumcoop.com/product...=7437902446622
https://www.marineandreef.com/Fluval...hts_s/1104.htm

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 12-11-2018 at 07:37 AM. Reason: edit
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 07:37 AM
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I have not used Fluval but have a bunch of Current Satellites. Current is about $15 more expensive after all the sales, and has an IR remote while Fluval uses WiFi app.
I dunked Current fixtures about 3 times now, with the light on, with no issues.
Mounted right on the tank, the spread is iffy and I have 2 fixtures on each of my 18" front to back tanks.
The new optional mounting brackets are a nice option.

My experience with Current's customer service has been outstanding, especially when it comes to replacement parts. They have sent me multiple power supplies, ramp timers, and mountIng brackets at $0 cost via USPS Express just on my word. The best way to deal with them is via email and they reply within 24 hours, ofthen with the parts already in the mail.

Hardware wise, the power supplies are their weakest point (well, I run multiple fixtures oof the same supply) and they have changed a number of suppliers over the years. On the plus side, all LEDs are still working and some of them are 5+ years old.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. You are right. The Current is quite a bit more. I compared the 36-48 by mistake. Odd that there are no Green LEDS on the Fluval. I suppose the nice feature of the Fluval is that it is programmed from an App that potentially could improved even more down the road. It is relatively new and I have seen a lot of good recommendations to the mftr. The PAR is 70 @ 18" on the Current...probably more than I need. I'm not sure about the Fluval.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 08:04 AM
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I just got a 48-60 Pro for $192 total, my best price to date, from drsfostersmith.com.
The Pro has plenty of PAR in the 6,700K and I run mine at around 60% in the white spectrum.

App wise, if the LEDs cannot produce a spectrum, no improvement to the app can make up for that.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailmixguy View Post
Thanks. You are right. The Current is quite a bit more. I compared the 36-48 by mistake. Odd that there are no Green LEDS on the Fluval. I suppose the nice feature of the Fluval is that it is programmed from an App that potentially could improved even more down the road. It is relatively new and I have seen a lot of good recommendations to the mftr. The PAR is 70 @ 18" on the Current...probably more than I need. I'm not sure about the Fluval.

Plenty of green in "pure white"..
I find it more annoying that it doesn't have a dedicated red channel..
though the pink plus warm white is sufficient "sunrise" wise..



both lights have "compromises" at that price point..

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailmixguy View Post
Thanks. You are right. The Current is quite a bit more. I compared the 36-48 by mistake. Odd that there are no Green LEDS on the Fluval. I suppose the nice feature of the Fluval is that it is programmed from an App that potentially could improved even more down the road. It is relatively new and I have seen a lot of good recommendations to the mftr. The PAR is 70 @ 18" on the Current...probably more than I need. I'm not sure about the Fluval.
Hi @Trailmixguy,

Here is a thread regarding PAR values for the Fluval 2.0 at a 19.5" depth.

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...f-p-2-0-a.html

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75 Gallon, 2X55W AH Supply CF 8800K, 1X 59W Fluval Plant (3.0); 45 Gallon Tall, 1X 46W Fluval Plant (3.0); 30 Gallon Long; Fluval F&P 2.0; 20 Gallon, 1X26W AH Supply LED; all with CO2 & (Calcined) Montmorillonite Clay
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 02:30 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds like the PAR is decent with the Fluval too although I've read that it is slightly less with the 3.0 vs the older 2.0. The newer light is also slightly warmer at 6500 K vs 7500 K.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm leaning toward the Current based on the light Spectrum.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailmixguy View Post
Sounds like the PAR is decent with the Fluval too although I've read that it is slightly less with the 3.0 vs the older 2.0. The newer light is also slightly warmer at 6500 K vs 7500 K.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm leaning toward the Current based on the light Spectrum.
Hi @Trailmixguy,

However, since the LEDs are adjustable on the Fluval 3.0 you can adjust the spectrum (K) as you desire. (FYI there is nothing 'magical' about K values, as long as the output PAR is sufficient and within the spectrum of photosynthesis)
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75 Gallon, 2X55W AH Supply CF 8800K, 1X 59W Fluval Plant (3.0); 45 Gallon Tall, 1X 46W Fluval Plant (3.0); 30 Gallon Long; Fluval F&P 2.0; 20 Gallon, 1X26W AH Supply LED; all with CO2 & (Calcined) Montmorillonite Clay
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-28-2020, 01:52 AM
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I have two Currents V1 on my two 55 gals. I absolutely love them and the ability to have colors on the tank like red, blue, green, yellow, orange, pink, and purple really make it more of a centerpiece for my home. You can really make the fish stand out at night with the different colors available to make by mixing the RGB LEDs. My plants have grown 3/4 of the way to the top of my tank and look like they will make it to the top with no CO2 and in gravel. I do use Thrive root tabs every other water change but I know the real game maker is the Currents Pro LEDs especially for my ozelot sword. I was a little apprehensive about the storm setting thinking it would stress the fish out but it doesn’t, Ive even noticed when my gold Gourami starts messing with my powder blue Gourami the storm setting calms him a bit. On top of that, I’ve had my lights for about 3 years now and I had a power supply go bad recently and Current replaced it after I sent a picture of it with my light. I HIGHLY doubt a multi product company like Fluval would do that. It’s a better light with the color options, it’ll give any plant what it needs and some, and it doesn’t need the coverage on the width BC the PAR goes so deep (that means it’ll hit the angle with the scattering and still have the intensity). Better product better service so yeah it cost more but the light is such an integral part of a setup why skimp where it matters?
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