Planning a new build for my 25g - Page 3 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #31 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-27-2018, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
if they stuck w/ the plan.. 700mA...
Yikes. That's a whole lot of light then.
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post #32 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-29-2018, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SpringHalo View Post
To eliminate most soldering you can use 3-terminal "wago lever nut" connectors to connect everything.
That was a great tip ! I did know about them but never get to use some, oh boy was i wrong those things are awesome

Quote:
Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
Yikes. That's a whole lot of light then.
3x56cm strips, 700ma for each indeed. And yep that's basically having the sun right on top of the fish tank

Bbut plan was never to use them at full power that's why i went with 3 drivers, introducing the controller :

Board : arduino uno r3 clone (ATmega328P)
Display : for now a basic 16x2 lcd (1602a), displaying the time and the pwm % of each strip
Real time clock : TinyRTC (DS1307)

I found a great program wich seems to be popular on a french reef board (i don't know if it's ok to post the link), using an array of 96 pwm values per day and doing averages between, resulting in smooth variations.
Both the PS ground and the LDD Vin- are grounded to the arduino board (i will have to check if it's enough for components safety, i read about pull down resistors or diodes)

After some tweaking and tests, everything seems to be working great and i'm already so glad i went with this multichannel/dimming route !

I have some cleanup to do, and i did not have the time to really appreciate the variations, but first impressions :
- 5700k alone is a great light, good balance
- 3000k alone is nice for sunset/sunrise variations
- adding 3000K to the 5700k add some "crisp" and contrast to the colors
- again, thoses strips are really powerfull, i will likely be at 50% power at most (around 20w, amazing)

Not to mention it is addictive, i am already thinking about adding things (bigger lcd, manual control, temp probe, ph probe...), and making another one for my last fish tank (high tech 10gal)

Photos incoming after cleaning up a little
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post #33 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-29-2018, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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As promised, some pictures !

Please excuse the fact that i didn't do the tank maintenance for quite some time : I added some new plants recently, so i let them grow but i have now a lot of trimming and some replanting/rescaping to do (and because of that there isn't a good light penetration at the moment)

Old lights (around 40w of 8520smd) :


New lights :

(i ended up using rivnuts to secure the strips -so i don't have to drill through- which is not ideal because it creates a tiny gap, i may change this in the future or adding some thermal pads)


Tank with old light on :


Tank with new light on ([email protected]%, [email protected]%)
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post #34 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-29-2018, 04:40 PM
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Beatles song keeps going through my head..

"Here comes the sun do de do da.........."

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."
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post #35 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 02:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinns View Post
As promised, some pictures !
New lights :

I ended up using rivnuts to secure the strips -so i don't have to drill through- which is not ideal because it creates a tiny gap, i may change this in the future or adding some thermal pads
You should focus on this issue. That gap is a huge problem and you really shouldn't be running the lights at any more than 5W apiece to avoid reducing the LED lifespan. If you want to keep the clean look of the strip you can use thermal epoxy, though that'll make the install permanent. The other less efficient option would be thermal foam pads, which should be more acceptable if you're running at low brightness.

I'm glad the build worked out for you, and I hope you have fun customizing your controller.
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post #36 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SpringHalo View Post
You should focus on this issue. That gap is a huge problem and you really shouldn't be running the lights at any more than 5W apiece to avoid reducing the LED lifespan. If you want to keep the clean look of the strip you can use thermal epoxy, though that'll make the install permanent. The other less efficient option would be thermal foam pads, which should be more acceptable if you're running at low brightness.

I'm glad the build worked out for you, and I hope you have fun customizing your controller.
There are thermal silicone which make it less than permanent..
"Heatsink Plaster" is one.
There are others..Cheap and in big tubes..
Tian Mu makes some:
Thermally Conductive Silicone Adhesive Glue - White - Free Shipping - DealExtreme


Also takes forever to get it since it is usually China direct..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."
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post #37 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 04:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpringHalo View Post
You should focus on this issue. That gap is a huge problem and you really shouldn't be running the lights at any more than 5W apiece to avoid reducing the LED lifespan. If you want to keep the clean look of the strip you can use thermal epoxy, though that'll make the install permanent. The other less efficient option would be thermal foam pads, which should be more acceptable if you're running at low brightness.

I'm glad the build worked out for you, and I hope you have fun customizing your controller.
EB strips are designed to not be used with a heatsink when running at 700ma for the 56cm strip.
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post #38 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-01-2018, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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As gus6464 said, those strips doesn't require a heatsink. I may record (log) some temp datas later (as there is 3 temp measurement points on each 56cm strip), but for reference someone did it with a FLIR :

That's a 3500K 560mm Bridgelux EB Gen 2 @700mA/19.26V, without any heatsink
(source: Bridgelux EB Gen 2 Thermals | Rollitup)

In my actual program, the most i am using is around 17w of power. They are barely warm to the touch !

I did some cleanup, and adjusted the program a little
Currently (max) at 2x [email protected]% + 1x [email protected]%
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post #39 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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So, a little update : i'm designing a whole new controller/program for this tank (online monitoring, datalogging, failsafe etc...)
I'm currently designing the "color spectrum" part of the app, in wich there is 3 sliders (1 for each channel) to adjust PWM values wich are displayed as of a % equivalent


I would also like to add a "global rendered temp" value (ex: "5200K"), but cannot find a simple equation to do so


A quote from SpringHalo earlier on this post :
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpringHalo View Post
Remember that 100% 3000k mixed with 10% 5700k will give you 110% 3500k

Let's say my values are :
CH1: 60% (5700K)
CH2: 10% (3000K)
CH3: 50% (5700K)


> Is there a simple equation to do this ? All i can find are ones only Will Hunting could understand...


Thanks in advance
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post #40 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinns View Post
So, a little update : i'm designing a whole new controller/program for this tank (online monitoring, datalogging, failsafe etc...)
I'm currently designing the "color spectrum" part of the app, in wich there is 3 sliders (1 for each channel) to adjust PWM values wich are displayed as of a % equivalent


I would also like to add a "global rendered temp" value (ex: "5200K"), but cannot find a simple equation to do so


A quote from SpringHalo earlier on this post :



Let's say my values are :
CH1: 60% (5700K)
CH2: 10% (3000K)
CH3: 50% (5700K)


> Is there a simple equation to do this ? All i can find are ones only Will Hunting could understand...


Thanks in advance
FOR A BALLPARK ESTIMATE
(5700 x 6) + (3000 x 1) + (5700 x 5) / 6+1+5
65700/12 = 5475

SPECTRA
Verify using CREE xte-
Quote:
Cree XT-E CoolWhite (7300K) [120] x1
Cree XT-E WarmWhite (2770K) [120] x1
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux : 246 lm
Radiant flux : 749 mW
PPF : 3.4 umol/s
TCP : 4950 K

7300 + 2770 /2 = 5035
Close

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."
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post #41 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again Jeff, you're the man !
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post #42 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinns View Post
Thanks again Jeff, you're the man !
keep in mind that it implies general output similarity/drive currents..
like if one stips max current it 500ma and the other is 250ma..
or vastly different efficiencies..

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post #43 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Hi ! One year later it's time for an update

I finally upgraded my old/ugly 25g for a new (rimless) 50g. As i plan to redo the fixture to accomodate the new tank, i would also like to add some channels.
Note that I don't really need it (i only used half the power and colour/control is great), its more for fun/experimentations (i am also working on an app/controller so more options = more fun)

Plan is to add 1 channel to amp up the temp (so i can go >5600K), and 1 or 2 for more specific colors to experiment (colour rendition + plant growth/color)
Not sure about what would be the best option to have the best range possible but something like :

Channel 1&2 : Bridgelux EB 5600K
Channel 3 : Bridgelux EB 3000K
+
Channel 4 : blue (cyan/blue/royal)
Channel 5 : Green
+ (i don't think so but maybe)
Channel 6 : Cold white (~8000K) - Not sure if needed because of the blue channel)
Channel 7 : UV (could also be added to the blue channel)


I will probably go with Cree or Lumileds mounted on small (~10mm) copper pcb's
I generally order my electronics on arrow, but cannot find mounted ones or pcb options so i'm planning to order on aliexpress. Nothing to worry about ? (fake)

All advices are welcome
Thanks
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post #44 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 08:37 PM
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https://www.stevesleds.com/Luxeon-ES...EDs_p_184.html
this is a good K temp riser, though adding any blue will do the same thing..

Not as good as the "fresh fish" COB's or sunplus series (the wide beam angle is a bit difficult to work with) but a solid diode..
Not sure I'd bother too much w/ UV but violets are ok..from a photosynthesis/cost standpoint..
https://www.stevesleds.com/Hyper-Violet-V40_p_255.html

Not sure why one would add green esp w/ cyan. Cyan stars in quality are not so easy to find (well cheap).. Best bet is just evil bay Bridgelux.
https://www.luxeonstar.com/
"premium priced" stars and custom strips...

from a personal point of view, adding "plain blue" and cyan will eliminate the need for other types of whites..
Quote:
* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
LED UV (410nm) [120] x1
LED Blue (460nm) [120] x1
LED Cyan (490nm) [120] x1
Cree XT-E CoolWhite (5000-8300K) [120] x11
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux : 1,593 lm
Radiant flux : 5,827 mW
PPF : 24.9 umol/s
TCP : 9170 K
CRI : 81
λp : 447 nm
Color : #BBC7FF
channel breakdown really only depends on cost and control possibilities..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."
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