My homegrown Aquasky with par data - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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My homegrown Aquasky with par data

Tried to mimic the Aquasky design as close as possible as I like the look. No dimming just on and off. Light is equivalent to the 602 in it's output.

Bridgelux EB Gen 2 strips x2 5700K 80CRI
Meanwell APC-35-700 driver/power supply (supplies a fixed 700ma to strips)
These strips are designed to not require a heatsink. I tested them by leaving the light on for an hour and acrylic was barely warm. Don't mind the dirty tank and light. Have to clean it up and polish the acrylic on the light a bit.

Nice and sleek with crisp white light.


2 strips


Driver/power supply with quick disconnects


And the best part, the PAR data. Another fantastic thing about these EB strips is that their lumens per watt output is out of this world. The PAR data you are about to see is from a light that is only using ~27 Watts. That is less than half the 60W of an Aquasky 602.

Tank is a little taller than a standard 60P at 15.75 inches. The light itself is 5 inches tall. Distance from led diodes to bottom of tank is 20.25 inches. The middle readings are actually 9 inches above the bottom of tank so a little bit higher than mid.

bottom center


bottom front


bottom rear


bottom front corner


bottom rear corner


middle center front


middle center


middle front corner


As you can see the amount of PAR this thing puts out based on the wattage draw is outstanding. The light distribution is also dead even at the bottom. This tank is going to be an iwagumi with the carpet TBD.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 04:26 PM
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What is "Advanced Light Meter"? If it's a phone app, the data doesn't mean anything.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 04:31 PM
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That is from the seneye
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 04:59 PM
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Everything is 4000k-ish.. to the Seneye.

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
Everything is 4000k-ish.. to the Seneye.
Seneye is absolutely horrible at detecting temp color. You should know this. The Seneye always thinks that my ATI blue+ bulb is ~24000K temp when it's nowhere near close as they are a super light blue. It's always all over the place.

The PUR reading I don't know what they base the number on either. Advanced Aquarist for example rates an ATI True Actinic at 95% PUR but Seneye never shows it past 70.

Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisX View Post
What is "Advanced Light Meter"? If it's a phone app, the data doesn't mean anything.
I don't know of any phone app that can detect PAR as they don't have the sensors. That is the data from a Seneye with v2 firmware which is pretty good at measuring PAR.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 06:45 PM
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I feel like to some degree the seneye truncates blue and red where the pur would be able to go past 70 and their spectral graph really looks like it smooths out dips, but it's about as good as you can get for 200$ To significantly upgrade in those areas we'd be spending a tremendous amount of money (for hobbyists anyhow) on testing equipment. Like where is the cyan gap with the blue spike on the left in any seneye graph ever?
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wobblebonk View Post
I feel like to some degree the seneye truncates blue and red where the pur would be able to go past 70 and their spectral graph really looks like it smooths out dips, but it's about as good as you can get for 200$ To significantly upgrade in those areas we'd be spending a tremendous amount of money (for hobbyists anyhow) on testing equipment. Like where is the cyan gap with the blue spike on the left in any seneye graph ever?
Yeah I basically just use it for PAR. The v2 firmware really made it tons better. In the BRS video it was the only one that kept up with the Li-Cor 192.

Their co2 sensor got delayed though which sucks. That's going to be another buy right away. I lucked out on the Seneye as I got mine brand new for $60. There was a guy in my local reef forum that was moving and just wanted it gone ASAP. Said he got it as a Christmas gift but never actually cared enough to even take it out of the package.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 08:25 PM
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slightly upgraded old Apogee (btw own a Seneye myself)



Problem w/ sw tests.. Little red..

as to it's spectrum analysis.. Pretty sure it is an interpolation of a RGB filtered sensor..

Quote:
To significantly upgrade in those areas we'd be spending a tremendous amount of money
can't really get a decent spectrophotometer for less than $1600 usually..

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
can't really get a decent spectrophotometer for less than $1600 usually..
Which is a little too much to me for a more accurate spectrum graph / pur / cri measurements on a few lights. Though I have been known to buy some ridiculous stuff at times...

The light looks pretty good though, the lights I've made are hilariously ugly.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Some temp testing as someone at ukaps mentioned that the acrylic might get too hot and start to sag over time.

Upright temp on thermometer is at the strip itself and upside down is the acrylic top right above the strip.

2 hours in



5+ hours in



Still don't know how it's managed to stay that cool for the amount of light it's pushing. SMD strips get pretty hot after a while and they are not as strong.
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 11:38 PM
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More efficient.. cooler ..
SMD have "heaters".. i.e resistors that are converting voltage to heat.
One every 3 diodes.

constant current.. no waste..

and poor efficiency..

and poor heat transfer/spread substrate.

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018, 12:29 AM
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I find it interesting that even when mounted onto the acrylic the numbers are very similar to a test that someone did in another forum. In that thread, he tested a 2' strip in free air, with no ambient airflow or heatsinking. He got:
700mA 19.26Vf 43.4C
1050mA 19.68Vf 56.4C
1400mA 20.08Vf 71.9C

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
More efficient.. cooler ..
SMD have "heaters".. i.e resistors that are converting voltage to heat.
One every 3 diodes.

constant current.. no waste..

and poor efficiency..

and poor heat transfer/spread substrate.
Is that a generalization for all SMD strips or just the China ones?
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018, 01:46 AM
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No generalization is good for everything but
1)constant voltage strips need resistors..And diodes generate their own heat.
2)tiny flexible ribbons don't have the necessary mass for proper heat conduction.

Overall diode efficiency is getting better though..


Use this to determine resistor "heat".
LED series parallel array wizard

A sort of "normal" array..

Use 60mA for .2W diodes, 120mA for .5w diodes

You can eliminate a lot of the heat by using a variable voltage power supply..
Use 11V and you cut resistor heating in 1/2..




Quote:
Solution 0: 3 x 10 array uses 30 LEDs exactly
+12V
+ -|>|- -|>|- -|>|- -/\/\/\- + R = 82 ohms
+ -|>|- -|>|- -|>|- -/\/\/\- + R = 82 ohms
+ -|>|- -|>|- -|>|- -/\/\/\- + R = 82 ohms
+ -|>|- -|>|- -|>|- -/\/\/\- + R = 82 ohms
+ -|>|- -|>|- -|>|- -/\/\/\- + R = 82 ohms
-|>|- -|>|- -|>|- -/\/\/\- R = 82 ohms
+ -|>|- -|>|- -|>|- -/\/\/\- + R = 82 ohms
+ -|>|- -|>|- -|>|- -/\/\/\- + R = 82 ohms
+ -|>|- -|>|- -|>|- -/\/\/\- + R = 82 ohms
+ -|>|- -|>|- -|>|- -/\/\/\- + R = 82 ohms
The wizard says: In solution 0:

each 82 ohm resistor dissipates 73.8 mW
the wizard thinks 1/4W resistors are fine for your application Help
together, all resistors dissipate 738 mW
together, the diodes dissipate 2970 mW
total power dissipated by the array is 3708 mW
the array draws current of 300 mA from the source.

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 03-15-2018 at 02:14 AM. Reason: edit
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018, 05:09 AM
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Hmm, maybe I just don't understand what resistors do or how they work. I just know they're the little black thing between diodes on many China strips (and I don't see it on the EB strip). When people DIY their own lights, for example using Rebel ES or Cree XPG3 diodes, do they need resistors as well?
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffrey2568 View Post
Hmm, maybe I just don't understand what resistors do or how they work. I just know they're the little black thing between diodes on many China strips
The resistors are to limit current.. They limit current by dropping the voltage..
Voltage adds in series..
So 3 3.3V diodes in series needs 9.9V.. Feed it 12V w/ out resistors.. poof ! generally speaking..
diodes will draw too much current at 4V each..
Put a resistor of the correct value to limit voltage to 9.9V (and consequently current) no poof..

That energy needs to go somewhere. In the case of resistors.. heat..

Like space heaters.. high resistance to voltage = heat..Ones w/ the curly wire or wire in general.
not infared ect..



Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffrey2568 View Post
(and I don't see it on the EB strip). When people DIY their own lights, for example using Rebel ES or Cree XPG3 diodes, do they need resistors as well?
not normally . they run constant current..different driving method.
https://www.ledsupply.com/blog/const...e-led-drivers/

EB strips don't (more correctly shouldn't) be run w/ constant voltage source..
Theoretically one could put a resistor on the end and run it that way but not as efficiently..

Theoretical:
20V power supply, no more, no less
Quote:
Solution 0: 1 x 1 array uses 1 LEDs exactly
+20V
+ -|>|- -/\/\/\- + R = 1.5 ohms
The wizard says: In solution 0:

each 1.5 ohm resistor dissipates 183.75 mW
the wizard thinks 1/2W resistors are needed for your application Help
together, all resistors dissipate 183.75 mW
together, the diodes dissipate 6825 mW
total power dissipated by the array is 7008.75 mW
the array draws current of 350 mA from the source
350mA current draw..1/2W 1.5Ohm resistor.. go up to 24V and you need a 2W 15 Ohm resistor to keep the voltage at 19.5V..

how to drive a 280mm strip w/out a "driver" like a Meanwell LDD constant current one.

Problem is usually stability of power supply/resistor/diodes w/ this method..
Kampo, Kampo, Geoffrey2568 and 1 others like this.

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