Son of Kahuna (56K!)

[scolley]

Originally Posted by Buck

Have you tried cutting way back on the micro's?

No I haven't Buck. Thanks for the suggestion.

But I think my reason is solid... I've had this GDA problem since before my micros were at this current level. And as I increased them I saw improvements in my plants, but no real change in the GDA. So my immediate response is to assume the micros are not the problem.

That said, I believe it was Travis that indicated that he saw a GDA decrease upon reduction of Fe and/or micros. I've backed off on my Fe, and it seems to be helping... nothing dramatic, nor conclusive enough that I'm willing to take a stand on. But it SEEMS to have helped. Maybe backing off on micros in general will help too.

As for the water changes... I'm doing several small water changes automatically every day. The net effect is a 50% w/c every three days (if my Excel spreadsheet calcs are correct. ). So I don't think that's it.

I'm just guessing here... I'm no expert. But IMO I think my lights present the tank a challenge - the halogens are wicked bright to those plants close by, and not bright enough to those at a distance.
Florescents do a much better job of spreading light evenly. So these are either making plants too close prone to algae, and those far away suffering from too little light.

And all that is complicated by a tank that has WAY too high a fish load, that I'm trying to over compensate by doing the equivalent of a 50% w/c every three days, except for the fact that my tap water is loaded with nitrates and phosphate to begin with.

And oh, did I forget to mention the silicates that my sand substrate kick up to feed those algaes that love silica so much?

But that sounds like whining. Sorry. I made my bed, now I have to figure out how to sleep in it.

Originally Posted by Pyt

Btw, did you test all you peristaltic pumps, or just the ones you are using from AutomatedAquariums.com?
We fellows from “the other side” might not be able to get the same stuff that all of you are using

/Jens

Jens, I wish I could say that I tested them all. Good question. I only tested the AutomatedAquarium.com product that I linked too earlier. IMO the Aquamedic pump - which I know IS available on your side of the pond - is garbage frankly, and not even worth wasting time with. I need 2 more pumps and I'm not even considering using my Aquamedics... they'll stay in the spare parts pile in case of an emergency.

The big Aquaticecosystems.com pump that I also did not test was because it is frankly WAY overbuilt for the home enthusiast. If you look in their catalogue and see their prices, you can see that much of their stuff is industrial strength. That's why I didn't test this one. If you could see it yourself, you would see that this expensive monster could pump glass marble through rock. It's powerful.

So no, I only tested the one product. But that is because there was one I won't even use, and the other is so clearly superior. I tested the weakest link that I was willing to install in my stand.

[Pyt]

Originally Posted by scolley

I'm just guessing here... I'm no expert. But IMO I think my lights present the tank a challenge - the halogens are wicked bright to those plants close by, and not bright enough to those at a distance.
Florescents do a much better job of spreading light evenly. So these are either making plants too close prone to algae, and those far away suffering from too little light.

Have you thought about using your lights to your advantage? Here I'm thinking plant-wise.

What if you were to place your plants in areas where the light intensity was actually to their liking? Might that negate the low spread your lights have, and also possible help with your algae problem?

Originally Posted by scolley

Jens, I wish I could say that I tested them all. Good question. I only tested the AutomatedAquarium.com product that I linked too earlier. IMO the Aquamedic pump - which I know IS available on your side of the pond - is garbage frankly, and not even worth wasting time with. I need 2 more pumps and I'm not even considering using my Aquamedics... they'll stay in the spare parts pile in case of an emergency.

Aquamedic is available over here yes, but I’m somewhat partial to doing it right the first time. Meaning, why buy a pump someone else has looked at, and found wanting.

I’m looking into buying a whole set of automation controls. Unfortunately the AquaController from Neptune Systems is not available for 220V with the controllable sockets. I can get the computer, but not the sockets.

An alternative would be the Profilux II from GHL, they have their own dosing pump, and also sockets available for 220V.
I know people here have used them, and with good results. I’m just irked about the fact that it doesn’t have LAN interface, unless you buy an expansion card.

Anyway, I don’t want to hijack your thread with questions for my own use. I’ll start my own for that

I love what you have done with your tank, and especially the automation part of it. I’m getting there, but I’m taking baby steps

/Jens

[Steve Kelly]

[quote]

Originally Posted by scolley

Please let me know if that bleach and pressure wash works for you Steve. Bleaching and using a normal hose did squat for me.

Steve,

After bleaching and then pressure washing my 25-micron cartridge with a 3,000 psi, gas powered pressure washer , I did keep the fan nozzle a few inches from the cartridge so as not to destroy it , the cleaned filter cartridge started out at 3.5 psi which is the initial run pressure of a new 25-micron pleated cartridge on my system.

The washed cartridge lasted about 10 days before the pressure started to creep up to near 5 psi. My pump, an original Lifegard QuietOne, shuts off at about 6.5 psi. I start to see significant flow drop at 5 psi.

From my limited experience with the Ocean Clear / Nu-Clear pressurized type filters, I have come to the conclusion that a high-head pump is required to make these types of filters perform at their best. Specifically, the Poseidon PS2 or PS3 (21~24-ft head) or one of the Iwaki WMD-40Rs (21-ft head). I believe Plantbrain is going to use the Iwaki on his new 180.

Based on my calcs from the performance curves available for the above pumps, one should see flow rates and pressures as follows:

QuietOne----240 gph----10' head---- 4.3 psi
PS1 --------240 gph----17' head-----7.3 psi
PS2---------240 gph----22' head-----9.75 psi
PS3---------240 gph----24' head-----10.4 psi
WMD-40R----240 gph----21' head-----9.1 psi

If it wasn't for the potential of the Poseidon pumps raising the tank water temp 4~6 degrees, I would have already replaced my QuietOne with a Poseidon PS2. I wish there was more data available about the water temperature increasing issue with the Poseidons.

Originally Posted by scolley

I hope you are right about the cartridges interchangability. I've got a 2nd OC340 that I've been ready to install - replacing the Eheim Pro II. But I've ordered the foam inserts for an OC 318 because it's got 200+ sf. ft. of biological media vs. the 30 or 40 in the OC 340. I don't really need any more mechanical filtering - don't think so anyway.

So I'm hoping to find this stuff is really interchangable. Thanks for the tip!

The Ocean Clear Polystrand filter pads can be used in the Inland Seas / Nu-Clear canister filters as long as you buy one of the 'Full Flow' grids for the Nu-Clear -- $14. I believe that the OC 25-micron 40 sq.ft. pleated cartridge should also work just fine in the Nu-Clear.

I recently ordered one each of the OC 317, 318 and 319 filter replacement pad sets and have had good results with the OC 318 50-micron pads combined with my less than perfect pump. They do a nice job of keeping the water clear and should be much easier to clean than the pleated cartridges.

Reference:

OC 317 pad set http://www.aquarium-supply.biz/Ocean...p/roc82317.htm

OC 318 pad set http://www.aquarium-supply.biz/318_P...p/roc82318.htm

OC 319 pad set http://www.aquarium-supply.biz/319_P...p/roc82319.htm


Steve

[scolley]

Originally Posted by Pyt

What if you were to place your plants in areas where the light intensity was actually to their liking? Might that negate the low spread your lights have, and also possible help with your algae problem?

I'm doing that to a limited extent now Jens. Or trying to anyway. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Pyt

Aquamedic is available over here yes, but I’m somewhat partial to doing it right the first time. Meaning, why buy a pump someone else has looked at, and found wanting.

Maybe I'm being too hard on Aquamedic. Here's the facts...

Aquamedic has nice terminations on the pumps making it very easy to attach tubing. Much better than anything else I've seen. But all peristaltic pumps have a little cog that rotates in the middle of a loop of tubing. The cog has rollers that pushes fluid through the tubing. In all of the pumps I've seen this cog is a combination of hard plastic and metal. Aquamedic though uses a very hard, but think plastic for this cog. It's brittle and breaks. The problem is clearly so bad that they have to offer it as a replacement part. Everyone else offers replacement tubing. They have to, the tubing goes bad after a few years. But Aquamedic is the only one that has to offer replacement parts. Why? Because they break due to cheap plastic construction.

Good luck with the Profilux! Too bad you can't get the DC8 there.

Originally Posted by Steve Kelly

From my limited experience with the Ocean Clear / Nu-Clear pressurized type filters, I have come to the conclusion that a high-head pump is required to make these types of filters perform at their best.

I've got to agree, and disagree, Steve. I find that even my brand new cartridges that they start out somewhere around 3 psi, and climb to 5 within a few months, and with 3 or 4 months are at 7 and climbing. My Poseidon cuts out at about 10 psi, with flow really diminishing once it hits 8.

Assuming that a "high head" pump is what is otherwise referred to as "pressure rated" pumps, I'm in full agreement. But unless I'm missing something, the Poseidon PS1 and PS3 are their pressure rated pumps, not the 2 or 4.

Originally Posted by Steve Kelly

If it wasn't for the potential of the Poseidon pumps raising the tank water temp 4~6 degrees, I would have already replaced my QuietOne with a Poseidon PS2. I wish there was more data available about the water temperature increasing issue with the Poseidons.

Well here's some anecdotal, not proven, information.

Here's a Poseidon.
And here's a Velocity.
They look the same. Right? Same specs I believe.

Well my first pump is a Poseidon PS1. And for my 2nd pump I bought a Velocity T1. Should be the same. In person they look the same.

Well, that T1 definitely adds heat. I've been battling that since I installed it. During the day I only let it run 15 minutes out of every hour. Otherwise the tank warms up.

Now, it's entirely possible that the PS1 is really heating the tank up, and that the T1 is just the straw that broke the camel's back. But I'm not so sure. I know that the PS1 is adding some heat. But he T1 seems to be adding more. I'm not sure what the difference is, but I suspect there is one. And it could well be that the Velocity's propensity to add heat has given the Poseidon's a bad rap because everyone thinks they are the same.

I can't prove the Velocity is adding more heat. Would love to do an experiment. It's easily done... turn off the heaters, lights, UV and pumps, let the tank chill to ambient temperature, then turn on one pump. Wait for the temp to peak, and measure the difference between tank temp and ambient temp. Then repeat the whole process with the other pump.

But right now in Connecticut ambient temp is a bit cool. I'll have to wait until it warms up.

Originally Posted by Steve Kelly

I recently ordered one each of the OC 317, 318 and 319 filter replacement pad sets and have had good results with the OC 318 50-micron pads combined with my less than perfect pump. They do a nice job of keeping the water clear and should be much easier to clean than the pleated cartridges.

Thanks for the info Steve. It is that 318 set that I got too. But haven't used it.

In principle the a 318 and 340 should be used in series, in that order. But since I have two separate filtration paths, they run parallel, and the 340 - which should be primarily polishing - is also doing normal mechanical filtration. So it doesn't last nearly as long without maintenance as it otherwise might. That was a design compromise that I accepted up front.

So in my own situation, the 318s may be easier to clean. And the 318s may go longer between cleanings. And they definitely have a much larger biofilter capacity. But they can't filter any better than the 340. So as long as I believe my biofilter is sufficient (as I do now), I'm going to opt for the higher level of filtration over ease of maintenance and potentially reduced cost.

But I'm glad to hear that the 318 looks like a good option. Thanks! I'll keep those spare filters handy!

[digthemlows]

How is the tank doing btw. It's been about a month, is the algae still giving you hell?

[Steve Kelly]

Originally Posted by scolley

I've got to agree, and disagree, Steve. I find that even my brand new cartridges that they start out somewhere around 3 psi, and climb to 5 within a few months, and with 3 or 4 months are at 7 and climbing. My Poseidon cuts out at about 10 psi, with flow really diminishing once it hits 8.

Assuming that a "high head" pump is what is otherwise referred to as "pressure rated" pumps, I'm in full agreement. But unless I'm missing something, the Poseidon PS1 and PS3 are their pressure rated pumps, not the 2 or 4.

You're getting much longer life out of your pleated cartridge than I am. No doubt this is mostly due to the QuietOne pump I'm using which has a much lower cut-off head than your PS1. With a new cartridge and no disturbing of the substrate in my 90-gal by moving plants or re-scaping, the 25 micron might last one month before it has to be cleaned/replaced. And of course after being bleached and cleaned with a high power pressure washer it will only last about 10 days before needing to be cleaned again. Not very cost effective or fun.

Click Here for the complete spec sheet on the Poseidon pumps.

-- Poseidon pump Flow vs. Pressure chart from the spec sheet --

Originally Posted by scolley

Well here's some anecdotal, not proven, information.

Here's a Poseidon.
And here's a Velocity.
They look the same. Right? Same specs I believe.

Well my first pump is a Poseidon PS1. And for my 2nd pump I bought a Velocity T1. Should be the same. In person they look the same.

Well, that T1 definitely adds heat. I've been battling that since I installed it. During the day I only let it run 15 minutes out of every hour. Otherwise the tank warms up.

Now, it's entirely possible that the PS1 is really heating the tank up, and that the T1 is just the straw that broke the camel's back. But I'm not so sure. I know that the PS1 is adding some heat. But he T1 seems to be adding more. I'm not sure what the difference is, but I suspect there is one. And it could well be that the Velocity's propensity to add heat has given the Poseidon's a bad rap because everyone thinks they are the same.

I can't prove the Velocity is adding more heat. Would love to do an experiment. It's easily done... turn off the heaters, lights, UV and pumps, let the tank chill to ambient temperature, then turn on one pump. Wait for the temp to peak, and measure the difference between tank temp and ambient temp. Then repeat the whole process with the other pump.

But right now in Connecticut ambient temp is a bit cool. I'll have to wait until it warms up.

The heat issue is a major factor for me because my tank is in a room that stays near 77~78 degrees during the day and maybe drops to the upper 60s at night. The water temp is usually between 78~80 deg F most of the time. Adding a pump that could potentially raise it another 4~6 degrees would be a kiss-of-death without adding a chiller.

Your proposed experiment to measure the rise in water temp caused by the Poseidon PS1 and/or Velocity T1 would provide excellent info for anyone considering using one or the other in a pressurized cannister setup.

Originally Posted by scolley

Thanks for the info Steve. It is that 318 set that I got too. But haven't used it.

In principle the a 318 and 340 should be used in series, in that order. But since I have two separate filtration paths, they run parallel, and the 340 - which should be primarily polishing - is also doing normal mechanical filtration. So it doesn't last nearly as long without maintenance as it otherwise might. That was a design compromise that I accepted up front.

So in my own situation, the 318s may be easier to clean. And the 318s may go longer between cleanings. And they definitely have a much larger biofilter capacity. But they can't filter any better than the 340. So as long as I believe my biofilter is sufficient (as I do now), I'm going to opt for the higher level of filtration over ease of maintenance and potentially reduced cost.

But I'm glad to hear that the 318 looks like a good option. Thanks! I'll keep those spare filters handy!

With all of the other plumbing and electrical equipment housed in the stand on my 90, there just wasn't enough room to accommodate a second cannister filter. Time for a bigger tank With the 318 media in my cannister, it was about 3 weeks before the water started looking fairly well polished -- not quite at the level of the micron cart yet though.

Your ability to run two filter paths with different media is a definite plus. It should really extend the period between cleaning/replacement of the media.


Really appreciate all of your feedback on the pumps and filters.

Steve

[scolley]

Originally Posted by Steve Kelly

Click Here for the complete spec sheet on the Poseidon pumps.

-- Poseidon pump Flow vs. Pressure chart from the spec sheet --

Steve, I assume that your only posting this spec sheet was a nice way of only indirectly pointing out that I'm wrong. Thanks. That was kind of you.

But I NEVER want to be responsible for passing along bad info. So to ANYONE reading my posts, if I'm wrong, and you think you know it. PLEASE say so directly. I'm posting to disseminate good information, nothing else.

However, I don't think I'm wrong. Here's why...

Your chart shows a spec sheet from some "Bayside Aquarium Supply". I've got that same sheet. It came with my Poseidon, but was only a poor quality (really poor) photocopy. The key to which pump is with in the graph is not legible. But I can see it in your link. The high pressure pumps appear to be the PS2 and PS3. But I don't think that's right. I think the PS1 and PS3 are pressure rated, and that Bayside got it wrong.

I don't know who "Bayside" is, but it's looking like they are rebranding the Velocity pumps as Poseidon. That, of course implies that my T1 and PS1 contribute the same amount of heat, but that's a different discussion. I say rebranding because they did such a poor job on the "instructions" they sent with my PS1, and because I got a nearly identical set of instructions with my Velocity T1. But they are not photocopied, and they have all the exact same information EXCEPT they do not have that graph. And that graph conflicts with all other available info that I can find...

Look at this Marine Depot link. If you check into the detail pages for the Poseidon pumps, you will see that the PS1 and PS3 are clearly the high pressure pumps.

And look at this Champion Lighting link. In the detail you will find that the T1 and T3 (apparent PS1 and PS3 equivalents) are also the high pressure pumps, and that they are the only Velocitys that are listed as "pressure rated".

Bottom line - I think Bayside messed up on their graph. And I'm more comfortable making that allegation because of the very clearly sloppy way that provided my instructions. Velocity, on the other hand, seems a bit more buttoned-down. If you can find any info to contradict this, please share it. Thanks.

[Steve Kelly]

Originally Posted by scolley;592637c

Steve, I assume that your only posting this spec sheet was a nice way of only indirectly pointing out that I'm wrong. Thanks. That was kind of you.

But I NEVER want to be responsible for passing along bad info. So to ANYONE reading my posts, if I'm wrong, and you think you know it. PLEASE say so directly. I'm posting to disseminate good information, nothing else.

Steve,

That was not my intent. I wanted to throw out what little info I'd been able to find on the Poseidon pumps. I should have included the Marine Depot link you mentioned in your response which indeed shows completely different specs for the pumps. It annoys me that after doing diligent research I come up with contradictory specs. And from Marine and Reef.com, here are their posted specs for the PS3 and PS4. All of this makes it very difficult to make an informed buying decision unless one likes to do a lot of experimenting.

Needless to say, since you own both a PS1 and T1, your real-world experience with these pumps and your comments about them has been most helpful to me. If I do replace my QuietOne at some point, I just want to be sure I won't duplicate my existing inadequate pressure issue by buying the wrong replacement.

Originally Posted by scolley;592637c

Bottom line - I think Bayside messed up on their graph. And I'm more comfortable making that allegation because of the very clearly sloppy way that provided my instructions. Velocity, on the other hand, seems a bit more buttoned-down. If you can find any info to contradict this, please share it. Thanks.

The fact that your PS1/T1 can run the 25-micron cartridge for several months before cleaning/replacing means that it should be more than adequate for my tank. Thanks for including the link to champion lighting with their listing for the Velocity pumps. And here's one more link to a set of graphs for the BlueLine Velocity pumps which match the specs you've mentioned.


Steve

[scolley]

Originally Posted by Steve Kelly

It annoys me that after doing diligent research I come up with contradictory specs. And from Marine and Reef.com, here are their posted specs for the PS3 and PS4. All of this makes it very difficult to make an informed buying decision unless one likes to do a lot of experimenting.

That's a pretty reasonable sentiment IMO Steve. But with your additional Blueline link I think it kind of puts the last nail in the coffin. Does in my mind anyway - seems that PS1/T1 and PS3/T3 are the pressure rated pumps.

That said, Bayside clearly is not manufacturing these pumps, just branding them, so I wouldn't hesitate to buy a Poseidon. It's warming up here, so maybe I can do that temp test this week.

And another important tidbit... both Marine Depot and Champion Lighting list their pumps as including a mounting bracket. I did not get a bracket with either one - and BOY does it need one. There are screw mount holes on the pump housing itself. But those mounting brackets in the pictures would have really come in handy. They are wicked quiet, but each one took another $25 worth of sorbothane mounting grommets to dampen the vibration, and brackets would have made that job easier.

[lekyiscool]

still in awe slowly trying to figure out how everything is set up
btw how in the world were u able to configure the draining and refilling with the solenoid to your desired settings and also the ferts. Its amazing! Also how is it controlled are you using a similar system to Serejo with the pressure valve or is it all with the solenoid controlled electrically?

Even though your OC filter goes through a heap of tubes does it still maintain good flow rate?

Are you able to control the temp automatically or does the system have auto shut off to control the temp?

ALSO why 3 intake and only 2 ouflow ?

btw did you plan this out before working like with a software( or even one to draw your configuration)? if so which?

sry for the heap of questions =)
this project is an inspiration! just trying to learn

[digthemlows]

Steve, howz the tank coming along?

[scolley]

Originally Posted by digthemlows

Steve, howz the tank coming along?

Tank's doing fairly well. I need to get a post about it out...

Algae's MUCH better, though still not perfect. But good. I changed the 'scape a bit to accommodate more plants. It's not as attractive anymore, but it makes room for a lot of plants. I'll post soon. Thanks for asking!

Originally Posted by lekyiscool

btw how in the world were u able to configure the draining and refilling with the solenoid to your desired settings and also the ferts.

Draining and filling have nothing to do with the ferts. Check that diagram. In fact, draining and filling are independent. It's just you set the AC III to turn on the drain for a little while, and then have it turn the drain off and turn the fill on for a little while.

Originally Posted by lekyiscool

Also how is it controlled are you using a similar system to Serejo with the pressure valve or is it all with the solenoid controlled electrically?

Do you mean Serjio? Either way... I'm not sure how Serjio is doing auto water changes. As far as I know, I'm the first person to ever use a pressure valve to measure the depth of the water column through a hole in the tank, so whomever you are referring to is probably doing it like me - assuming they have the same setup.

The pressure sensor is just simple switch that is connected to a tube in the bottom of the tank. It can tell how high the water is. When the water a certain height (or higher) it turns on. There are two little wires running from it to the switch sensors on the AC III - it's made to do stuff like this. During the timed fill process, the AC III has a command that basically says "if that switch turns on, stop filling - even if there is more time left on your alloted fill time." So I have the fill timer set to go just a little longer than needed to fill - and the sensor switches on - and the fill process stops a minute or two early every night. That way I'm making darn sure it does get enough water, without being too much. And if the switch ever fails, the extra minute or two of filling will not be enough to flood stuff. Easy really.

Originally Posted by lekyiscool

Even though your OC filter goes through a heap of tubes does it still maintain good flow rate?

Good enough. I should have made all my tubing 1" rather than 3/4", and it would be better. But I can still run the tank on a single OC and pump. The one with all the tubes gives me about 350-380 gph, and without the tubes or filter it's almost 600 gph. With filter alone it's something like 500gph. So there is loss from the tubes, but not nearly what you would assume. And with the second OC and second pump the total has to be closer to 800 gph. I've not measured with both pumps, as it is visibly overkill. More than enough.

Originally Posted by lekyiscool

Are you able to control the temp automatically or does the system have auto shut off to control the temp?

The AC III controls the temp. Three of those big blue Pentair modules have a 300 watt heater in them - they are just normal submersible tank heaters. I've got the thermostats on those three heater set at something like 86 degrees - higher than I'll ever want, but not enough to boil discus. Those thermostats don't regulate the temperature - the AC III does. It has a temp sensor that is in my outflow manifold (near the pH sensor) that detects temp. If it's cold, the AC III turns on one of the heaters (they are normally plugged in, but the AC III provided no power to their plug. They are effectively turned off.) If it gets colder still (an extra 0.1 degree) it turns on another one. If it gets 0.1 degree colder than that, the final one gets turned on for a total of 900 watts heating. That's what allows me to fill the tank with Connecticut water at night in January.

What you are missing is the DC8's that the AC III uses to control everything. The DC8's are like big power strips that the AC III has a control wire running into. No plug in the power strip gets any power until the AC III turn on the power to that specific plug. So, for instance, you put a UV into the 1st plug, you could set the AC III to run the 1st plug at night. With the UV turned on, it still only gets power at night when the AC III provides power to it's plug. The heaters work the same way.

Originally Posted by lekyiscool

ALSO why 3 intake and only 2 ouflow ?

For the same reason that many in-line pumps have a larger inflow diameter hole than the diameter of the outflow hole... you never want to restrict the in-flow. Pumps do great at pushing, but are not good at sucking. So you want to provide them more water than they can use. The work pushing the water should be what restricts their flow rate. Never restrict them by not providing enough water fast enough.

Originally Posted by lekyiscool

btw did you plan this out before working like with a software( or even one to draw your configuration)? if so which?

I built the whole pluming setup first - outside of the stand. I even water tested it in the middle of my family room floor. It was pretty funny really - a big pile of tubes sucking water out of a trash can and BLASTING it back in. A leak would have been bad.

I had the size of the stand taped off on the floor as a big rectangle, and all the plumbing had to fit within the rectangle. That let me mess around with the configuration until I knew it would all fit. That and the fact that all my PVC connections are threaded. So if something didn't fit, I could just unscrew it and try a new configuration.

I did use a tool to predict the flow of the pump, with all the tubing. That is the Pump Head Loss Calculator over at Reefs.org. Or more accurately... I didn't use the calculator in that web page, but used the spreadsheet found in one of the links on that same page. I used the spreadsheet because it has a few additional types of plumbing. In particular, it had flow-thru and branching "T"s, of which I have quite a few. 90 degree elbows aren't nearly the big deal people make them out to be. But branching "T"s are bad news.

And I wanted to change value the tool used for the specific gravity of the water - fresh water flows faster than salt. The tool uses a 1.024 for specific gravity in its calc's - fine for salt water calculations. But in the spreadsheet I was able to change it to 0.85, which I gather is closer to the correct value for freshwater at 84 degrees (discus temps).

Originally Posted by lekyiscool

sry for the heap of questions =)

No prob! That's why I post.

[lekyiscool]

Wow thanks so much Scolly, very admiring work and yes sorry for murdering serjio's name i meant that i guess his is modled after yours

seems like that AC III is a work horse very nifty gadget

however one thing im not clear about is the PH control how is that controlled
hah again sorry for asking so much and not contributing, slowly trying to learn all this stuff

[scolley]

Originally Posted by lekyiscool

sorry for murdering serjio's name i meant that i guess his is modled after yours

Not necessarily. I'm not sure how his works. All I was saying was that I know I'm the source of through the bottom pressure sensing. His may be entirely different.

As to the pH sensing, lot's of people have posted about that here. That's a good use of the search function - it's not remotely unique to my tank. Good luck learning!

[monkeyruler90]

woooww, so i literly spent around 5 hours reading this whole thread. since post #1 and i totally love your tank. im so jealous. when i get out of college and have extra money, im totally going to set up an automatic system. im sure it makes life sooo much easier. good luck fighgting that GDA, and keep us updated on the status.

oh and i love your high quality pictures. they make great backgrounds