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#36 (permalink) |
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Plant chick
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...................purty~
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![]() Eheim Chickie #203 Filstar Pimpette # 56 not-so-newby anymore?90 gal acrylic, Coralife Aquapro 150x2 Metal Halides, 55x2 50/50 PC, 3 lunars, Hydor inline, 9w TurboTwist UV, Pressurized CO2, Rhinox 5000 glass co2 diffusor, Rex Grigg CO2 all-in-one, Milwaukee pH controller, 2 Eheim Pro II 2026's, Filstar XP3 backup, lilies, Eco Complete, Greg Watson dry ferts, EI mod http://web.mac.com/lynny_lynny/iWeb/Site/Velkommen.html http://www.paparazzi.com |
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#38 (permalink) |
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Banned
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It was an experiment I tried because I didn't like the HC as a carpet plant, but also didn't want to throw it away either. I took a small clump of it and held it down by putting it underneath one of the anubias roots. You have to do it very carefully though or else the HC will just fall apart. You could also use fishing line or thread, pretty much the same as putting moss on driftwood.
The HC doesnt really bond to the driftwood as it grows, but it will all hold together as a single mass as long as you don't fiddle with it. Although come to think of it I haven't really tested it to see if it is stuck to the driftwood. The growth is also very slow, most likely because it is meant to be in soil and due to the small leave size it isn't absorbing that much nutrients. I have noticed though that you should not have it shaded what so ever or it wont grow at all. It also seems to be growing downward, attempting to get to the floor I think. It would be really cool if I could get it to grow downward and have it sort of "hang off of the driftwood. It is a pretty cool experiment I am trying because I really haven't seen any tanks with HC on driftwood, although I am sure there are some out there. -Ryan |
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#41 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Guru
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Really nice! One thing I liked in the earlier shots was the lower growth of the Rotalla green. As it has matured there is a dark band across the middle which is pretty noticeable now, something that always happens as stems run up. Replanting low can fix that easy. The reds are so strong I thought, whoo Photoshop color balance tweaking, but that is beautiful R. wallachii. Have you thought of moving the anubia in total shade. They do great there.
Curious that you said the 40 watts keeps the plants small. I am surprised at that long of photoperiod. Do you mean they won't grow leggy and race up with plenty of wpg / light? I guess that's true. Anyhow, sweet work here. Makes me want to up my wattage.
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Three Tanks...Eheim 2128 & XP3-90G, Eheim 2128-65G, Eheim 2232-25G.... Tek 4x54 watt T5-90G, Aqualight 96watt PC 65G low tech, 65 watt Aqualight-25G.... Hydors-90G & 65G ... Flourite in 90, 65, & 25 Gallons, .... Auto Water Change/Auto dosing on 90 & 65 gallon..... AGA member...... |
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#43 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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Hi i have almost the same tank as you except i have 2x25 watt bulbs.
I would like to know what your water is like as far as pH,KH,Co2, and nitrates if you don't mind. subscribe**
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-William- YES WE CAN! The Cause, Inc http://www.wilmasthecause.org/ "Helping others to enjot a wonderful hobby" ![]() |
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#44 (permalink) | |
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Banned
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Quote:
The Rotala sp. green is looking real nice. You will see when I update tonight. The HM has covered up the dark stems that you are talking about, and I am starting to get the look that I have wanted. The anubias just dont fit in this aquascape, in my opinion. The tank is too small to attempt to have them shaded, and where they are now is causing them to get burned. I am going to trim it and let the HC grow on the driftwood even more. HC will thrive when I unshade it by clipping the anubia leaves. The massive amount of light and photo-period is helping to keep the plants very compact. If I were to use less light it would definitely not look the same. When plants get plenty of light they will not grow in a manner in which they are "searching" for better light. Instead they will prosper and keep a real compact design. I do not have any test kits other than a ph tester. Last time I checked my Ph was around 6.2. Other than that I have no clue what my CO2, KH, and nitrates are. I do not dose any nitrates in this tank for several reasons.. 1. I have RCS and that is asking for disaster if I overdose on the nitrates. 2. The RCS poop so much that I am positive the plants are getting plenty of nitrates from that alone 3. I believe that nitrates should only be dosed when you have very few inhabitants compared to your tank size. With this 10 gallon and the amount of RCS there is plenty of poop to go around. However, if I were to have a 120gallon with the same amount of inhabitants then I would probably have to get a NO3 test kit and dose NO3 in order to supplement the deficiency. I have not updated this journal in over 2 weeks. Tonight I will update and actually take pictures using my DSLR camera instead of the old simple Nikon that I was using for all the previous pictures. I will take a lot of good pics and post them. |
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#45 (permalink) | |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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Wow ok thanks.
Just one more question you said Quote:
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-William- YES WE CAN! The Cause, Inc http://www.wilmasthecause.org/ "Helping others to enjot a wonderful hobby" ![]() |
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