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#16 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Guru
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I pretty much agree with all that has been said so far, but for what it's worth, Eco-Complete can definitely be reused over and over again, and I swear it actually gets better over time. I'm sure this is because of its CEC rate, and the fact that with every new tank it gets recycled into, it has collected more mulm, poop, and nutes from the previous one.
If you want to, click on the 10g link in my sig, and you can see how fast I've been growing a field of microsword using EC in its 3rd incarnation. I have to say, the benefits of Eco Complete seem to outweigh any disadvantages, for me. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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I agree with you aidexl, there is nothing wrong with sand I've used it quite a bit along with SMS, Turface, Flourite, and Eco mixed or non-mixed without any problems and I have quite a few more tanks (all planted) in my dedicated fish-room than most of the naysayers. Usually what I find is that the people who adamantly oppose sand or recommends Eco for every situation tend to only have a couple of tanks and have never used anything else or if they did something went wrong one time and they haven't tried again.
There's nothing wrong with Eco or Fluorite there great substrates but if someone says they have limited funds and/or a big tank then the cookie cutter answer isn't the correct one especially when your looking at a little 15lb bag verses a much cheaper 50lb bag that will have the exact same results over the long haul. - Brad
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Proud member of the Heart of America Aquarium Society and the International Betta Congress
VICTOR PIMP #58 - VTS-253A-320 x2, VTS-253D-320. |
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#18 (permalink) | ||
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Planted Member
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Notice who the author is and his credentials. Notice corys specifically being mentioned. This is not a new concept; this is not an unproven concept. Gill tissue is far more sensitive than barbells, and it’s some of the most sensitive tissue on a fish. In this case the fish is developing hyperplasia through the same method you would develop a callous. I’m betting having your alveoli irritated by fine, sharp little crystalline particles with a hardness of 7 until they develop calluses would cause some breathing problems, don’t you? In the case of fish, there are no alveolar sacs with narrow openings to aid in protection; just direct exposure to vulnerable tissue. -Philosophos |
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#19 (permalink) | ||
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Planted Tank Guru
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"finer substrates with a lack of porosity aren't going to function well in terms of ionic exchange or behaving as microseives. There's less surface area, and less nutrient retension. A smaller grain size is also going to reduce flow throughout the upper parts of the substrate, which is not as desirable for initial planting since it reduces how fast oxygen will reach the chopped off stub you'll be planting. Requiring roots to supply more of their own oxygen isn't doing any favors to the plants rooting process" ..basically repeating or trying to teach me scientific things about CEC and nutrient exchange that have already been swimming in these forums for years. My response was another way of saying, it all doesn't matter as much as you think it does [IMO], I don't even try and still grow nice plants in it. So, maybe I am saying it isn't inferior, why would it be, because the science we have all been regurgitating for ten or so years says so? Let me ask you, how many sand tanks have you kept planted, and how bad did it actually turn out for you? If they failed, are you positive the sand killed your plants and not some other more obvious culprit? This is not agriculture we're dealing with, it's weeds in a box of water no matter how good your trimming skills are. Quote:
I'm going to creep out on a limb here because now I cannot find or offer any of the cites for what I'm about to say, but some research suggests there are a variety of wild substrates for cories to potentially scrape off barbells, so one would assume that if hard or sharp subs had anything to do with it, natural selection or adaptation would take care of it in short time and there would be no issue to speak of. This is part of the debate against sand causing barbell erosion and is also why I am not totally buying into the gill hyperplasia thing. It's known that cories in the wild are not always sifting through the finest materials, so why do they flourish there if they have adverse reactions to it? Somewhat related side note, if you're ever interested in a natural colored sand substrate that is already a bit rounded as if polished by water in a river, see if you can find this stuff (see second paragraph). It's much smoother than most similar things I've tried, like it was run through a tumbler or something, not to mention there's a nice color combo in the grains, after seeing it in a tank it would be nicer if it had more browns, IMO.
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Planted Tank Guru
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#22 (permalink) | ||||
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Planted Member
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Now, I'm showing you all of these indicators that pool sand may not function as well as other substrates. Do you have a single reason to say that it would work better? Do you have a single reason to recomend someone going out and buying it rather than using a substrate that so far functions as well or better? If you could be given two medications for a terminal illness, would you take one that's free and has more valid research behind it, or pay for one that may be of the same quality but has not even put out conjecture as to why it may be better? Personally I'd take the EC pill. -Philosophos |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Algae Grower
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I have eco iun my 29 gallon and i havent noticed a huge diffrence in plant growth. (my sowrds liked it better then regular gravel) I like eco since its avalible locally for me and its nice to work with. No cloudiness when putting it in and it has a nice black color to it so you can see poop as easy on it.
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#24 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Guru
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Philosophos, sounds like you have your mind made up. You're failing to prove anything, just speculating and blowing smoke in forums, so I am not going to waste my time getting into a huge debate with you over sand. I have nothing to prove because my success with it is all I need. You keep up with the "better safe than sorry" approach, avoid it like the plague, and I will continue to use it successfully along with everything else.
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#25 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Guru
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So anyway, to answer the thread's question, the real benefit of eco-complete is that it is a tried and true substrate, that many people, including myself, have used successfully, so it eliminates a lot of the guesswork about using other substrates. It has a good CEC rating so it makes for a good substrate to rinse and reuse indefinitely. Its particle size is a bit more varied than sand or other finer substrates, so you pretty much don't ever have to worry about compacting or anaerobic pockets. And it's a nice dark color which always looks good and hides poop and mulm. |
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#26 (permalink) |
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Planted Member
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Honestly, I think if I was gonna pony up for Eco-Complete, I'd look into ADA Aquasoil first. Since the AS is sold by volume, not weight, it is typically on par with the cost of the other specialized substrates.
CEC + built in NH4 = awesome Cichlid keepers use PFS all the time in their tanks. I don't think there was ever a big complaint about hyperplasia so my guess is that its pretty safe esp considering many cichlids will routinely sift the stuff through their gills and move mounds of around with their mouths. - Charlie
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#27 (permalink) |
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Planted Member
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Trackhazard, he's already got the EC, otherwise I don't think I'd have bothered with that entire debate hehe.
Still, I couldn't quite believe it when you made the coment about AS vs EC for price, but then I thought about it. Irritated by not knowing, I did some math. Here's what I figured out: My measurements of some dry EC and some AS: Dry ADA AAS I: 1.048g/ml Eco-Complete: 1.327g/ml EC: 20lb = ~9.1kg or 9,100g/1.327g/ml = 6858ml or 6.86L ADA AS = 9L Eco Complete: $20/6.86 = $2.92/L ADA AAS I: $28/9 = $3.11/L Which is GREAT if you're not shipping. Shipping costs will run from about $5-$15 a bag for a 3 bag box from AFA depending on whether you're delivering to SF or NY. So the average would be: ((28*2+5+15)/2)/9 = $4.22/L Still well worth it IMO. I'd pay 1/3 more for AS any day. As for the cichlid metaplasia thing, I'm not touching that one on this thread. I'm sure the debate made enough of a stink, and I'm not going to say anything more about the qualities of sand for now. -Philosophos |
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#28 (permalink) | |
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Fresh Fish Freak
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ADA also needs to be cycled pretty carefully due to the ammonia release- and therefore can be a tricky thing to use for a first planted tank.
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#29 (permalink) |
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Planted Member
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I use EC in my 36g bowfront and it grows swords incredibly well. I don't dose the water column at all, just root tabs once in a while, and my Amazon swords are hitting the surface (24") and throwing off tons of babies. I just threw in some crypts to see how they grow, I'm expecting good results.
With that said, I use Flourite in two of my other tanks and just converted my main tank to mineralized soil, so I'm not against experimentation. I've found the EC to be very low maintenance.
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