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Old 11-12-2009, 06:50 PM   #16
kid creole
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If you wanted to hit the sponge first, before the bio media, I think you could just shift that part over and swap it with the bio media. I've also heard that it's good to force the water up through the sponge rather than down onto it.

All of the baffles that come down from the top need to not extend up to the very top of the sump, so that if the media clogs, the flow bypasses the media but stays in the sump.
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Old 11-12-2009, 07:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kid creole View Post
If you wanted to hit the sponge first, before the bio media, I think you could just shift that part over and swap it with the bio media. I've also heard that it's good to force the water up through the sponge rather than down onto it.

All of the baffles that come down from the top need to not extend up to the very top of the sump, so that if the media clogs, the flow bypasses the media but stays in the sump.
the sponge is to do noting but break the fall of the water. I was talking to the guy who does all tank set and sump design to the LFS, he recommended making sure i have something to stop the churning of the water. I went to the top for the hold in the tank. if I get to the point where i dont feel safe with hints of over flow I will cut it out or make a flow hole higher in the baffle. Thanks for the feed back though I will be adding a little more silicone tonight. Do I need to silicone the bottom of the baffles?
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Old 11-12-2009, 07:50 PM   #18
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Do I need to silicone the bottom of the baffles?
I would. My $0.02.
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Old 11-12-2009, 07:52 PM   #19
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I would. My $0.02.
Ok thanks I will try to cut and extra hole at the top of the last baffel just to make sure.
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Old 11-13-2009, 05:57 PM   #20
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Go the rest of the silicone done last night, have to do a few minor tweaks the let it sit should be ready for water on sunday.
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:09 PM   #21
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Here are the pictures of the redone sump, I seem to have very little gassing off.

Last edited by goalieman59; 03-12-2010 at 06:17 PM..
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Old 11-16-2009, 03:06 AM   #22
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So I guess the new set up is casing a air bubble in the intake from the tank, so every so often the stand pipe gurgles. Is there any way to fix it?
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Old 11-16-2009, 03:51 AM   #23
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So I guess the new set up is casing a air bubble in the intake from the tank, so every so often the stand pipe gurgles. Is there any way to fix it?
That happens when you have the pipeīs hole in the water or too much flow for the pipe. Try remove the pipe from the water in the sump.
I would place the pipe on an angle comming from the top and with a very small flow. The flow splashes around the water and CO2 goes with that.
The idea of "salt water type sump flow (strong)" for planted tanks with CO2 is wrong IMO.
Try play with the water circulation in the display to better keep the CO2 bubbles there.
I donīt think you need all that stuff in the sump also. I would use ceramic rings instead bio balls, if so.
You need to know 1st why you want the sump for.

Cheers.
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Old 11-16-2009, 04:15 AM   #24
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I see a read sea reactor in the sump. Believe me that you will have more problems keeping your Co2 at 30ppm with that reactor than the sump!

You will need a better method of diffusion for sure.
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Old 11-16-2009, 12:57 PM   #25
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If you follow the directions Kid Creole you can probably do an adequate job of limiting CO2 out gassing.

Is the gurgling sound bothering you or are you worried that the gurgling sound is causing out gassing? Are you using the Durso standpipe design?

My sumps are just reservoirs of water, I don't use them for filtering. The flows from the tank are under water and the pump is used to inject the CO2. The outflow from the pump is directed down into the tank and enters mostly under water so that there is no initial out gassing of the CO2 in the tank. Because sumps are open top most of the time, it seems like they are better as reservoirs of water rather than filters for maintaining CO2 levels. You might be better off with a canister filter for filtering and just use the sump as a reservoir to maintain water level in the tank and to keep some equipment out of the tank. Its all just personal preference.
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Old 11-16-2009, 02:17 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echinodorus View Post
I donīt think you need all that stuff in the sump also. I would use ceramic rings instead bio balls, if so.
You need to know 1st why you want the sump for.
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Originally Posted by SCMurphy View Post
My sumps are just reservoirs of water, I don't use them for filtering. The flows from the tank are under water and the pump is used to inject the CO2. The outflow from the pump is directed down into the tank and enters mostly under water so that there is no initial out gassing of the CO2 in the tank. Because sumps are open top most of the time, it seems like they are better as reservoirs of water rather than filters for maintaining CO2 levels. You might be better off with a canister filter for filtering and just use the sump as a reservoir to maintain water level in the tank and to keep some equipment out of the tank. Its all just personal preference.
I have a 120g planted, with the sump return line running C02 injection and inline reactor. I have no problem getting my drop checker bright green, my plants are growing nicely. I always over filter my tanks, and am adding a canister filter. Just as Sean said, my sump is used to add water volume to my set up, hide equipment and getting C02 into my tank. Sumps also make it super easy to do a water change. I agree with Echin, get rid of the baffles, put the ceramic rings in a filter sock in your sump. After doing that, if you find you can't keep the water as clear as you'd like, add a canister filter. It looks like you have plenty of sponges in the sump, I'll bet you find you don't have to add one.

It is common to have an algae bloom when a tank has just been set up. How long has your tank been set up? I added ottos and trumpet snails to my tank when I had that initial algae bloom, took care of it in less than a week.
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Old 11-16-2009, 03:32 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goalieman59 View Post
So I guess the new set up is casing a air bubble in the intake from the tank, so every so often the stand pipe gurgles. Is there any way to fix it?
See Hoffman grugle buster.
Cannot forget a name like that.

I'd likely suggest getting a wet/dry box, then sealing it with weather tape/duct tape 2-3 layers etc, this way when the water comes down, it hits that, degases in a sealed chamber.

So it's not escaping.

It redissolves back into solution.

Then there's no turbulence after that till the return pump in the sump = minimal degassing.

I use a slide out drip tray and reseal it if I need to change the filter pads, etc, but I rarely use the filter pad, the screen on the weir box/overflow catches most of the big stuff, then bacteria/shrimp/snails decompose the rest.

I have an Ocean clear post filter on a couple of tanks for polishing. You could add a UV somewhere also if you wanted.

The biomedias are generally the bio balls in the wet/dry section, then in the low flow sump: open cell sponge, 15 pores inch range then another 30 pores/inch. I clean those every other week depending on the tank's loading.

The sealed dry section prevents the loss I think is the key as the water comes down to the sump area.

I also suggest using hang on prefilters, they tend to be quieter, take up less in tank space, lose less gas. You can take them off and take a pic without anything in the way etc, or go back to canister etc if you want later.

Regards,
Tom Barr
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Old 11-16-2009, 07:41 PM   #28
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The gurgle seems like it is in the sump. you can see it bulid an air bubble in the sump then is goes back up intake pipe. This did not start until I moved the intake pipe into the water in the sump. would the gurgle buster fix this? Thanks for the advice on the CO2 reactor I was going to build a DIY reactor, this should fix the co2 injection issue. I think I am going to leave the sump the way I have it, it seems to be running and is causing now issues. Plus I dont think the wife would be very happy if I redid the sump again after just spending the money and getting this one done.
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Old 11-16-2009, 10:04 PM   #29
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My sump occasionally does this, gurgles. Make sure the intake pipe is totally submersed. I have flex pipe on mine, to stop the gurgling, I just move the pipe around a bit, and it stops. Not sure if you have the option to do this.

I have my reactor tied to my return pump, which is a mag 9.5 and has a flow rating of 950 gph at -0- head. With 3 feet head, I think I was at 750 gph. When I added the reactor to it, it cut my flow way down. I had to add a Korelia3 for additional flow. I wanted to try one out anyway, gave me the perfect reason to!
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Old 11-17-2009, 02:18 AM   #30
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So I tried moving the pipe that goes into the sump, no luck still have the gurgling.
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