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Old 05-28-2009, 04:20 PM   #61
hydrophyte
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thanks again so much. i hope to have some updates and also some pictures from a similar idea. i might start a new thread for that one.
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Old 06-03-2009, 03:31 AM   #62
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here is a picture demonstrating the other kind of stand that i have been building--simple plywood top tables. this one is for a 20 gallon. it has about 1 1/2" of top sticking out all around the tank, and the legs are aligned with the tank corners.



the next shot shows detail beneath. these legs were scavenged from a cheap fiberboard desk that i found in the trash. i have also built two of these using threaded steel pipe and threaded floor flanges--very easy.



here is the general progression for putting one of these together:
  1. determine size, cut two pieces 3/4" sanded plywood wood
  2. mark flange positions, mark holes for screws that will join two pieces of plywood
  3. glue two pieces plywood together, with more fisnished surfaces on outside, screw together tight
  4. allow glue to dry, then remove screws
  5. sand all plywood surfaces smooth
  6. finish with oil-based polyurathane varnish, using as sanding sealer, then applying several addional clean coats
  7. replace screws
  8. attach pipe flanges and screw legs in place
  9. attach rubber leg bases to pipe bottoms
  10. et voilą
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Old 06-03-2009, 03:36 AM   #63
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You do have to be careful not to get a "racking" failure with that type of stand. For small tanks it should work fine, but I wouldn't dare try it with a 55 gallon tank, for example. Have you figured out how strong it is with side forces applied? Also, not all pipe flange fittings are created equal. The last time I used some, and I can't remember exactly what I was making, they were very poor quality, with the screwed in pipe not at a good right angle to the flat face of the flange. I got the flanges from an Ace Hardware.
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Old 06-03-2009, 03:43 AM   #64
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those are good qualifications to add. i have made these short (~24" tall) to lessen "wobble". i wouldn't put a larger tank on this kind of stand except with substantially thicker pipe.

i probably acquired the same poor-quality flanges that you describe. i had to try different combinations of pre-threaded pipe and flange, and exchange a couple of flanges at the store, but i eventually got the legs to mount square.

the whole thing looks pretty nice all set up.

the only out-of-tank equipment associated with this system was a powerstrip and timer. i hung these on the wall with a tidy, finished piece of plywood.
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Old 06-03-2009, 05:23 PM   #65
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You just gave me an interesting idea for a stand. If I build it I'll post pic's
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Old 06-04-2009, 06:21 AM   #66
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i finally got to replacing the old twin-tube strip lights that i had over my crypts riparium (http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ta...-crypts-9.html) with the Jump Start hydroponics T5.

i hung it up as a pendant.



i think that it goes really well with the stand. this was a remarkably economical lighting option.

here's "raw industrial" for ya'. the pendant hanger is just a simple eye bolt with toggle, washer, S-hook and chain.

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Old 06-29-2009, 07:27 AM   #67
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here i have a quick blurb on mounting the powers trip under the 65--i finally got around to it.

it was easy. i elected to use this product, 3M Dual Lock, Command Picture Hanging Strips.



i stuck one on each corner of the power strip's back surface.



i was pleased to find this power strip. it is all black, and goes with the aquarium.

here is mounted on the stand vertical support. the sticky-back mates of the Dual Locks strips are stuck right on the finished wood. supposedly, the Command products use a removable adhesive that can be taken off withour marring.



i had started to measure to position the Dual Lock strips on the stand support, but then the much easier option of just sticking them to their mates on the power strip, peeling away the tape covers, then sticking in place occurred to me.
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Old 07-02-2009, 11:22 PM   #68
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i finally made some time to install the shelf under the 55-gallon crypts riparium (see journal post). i think that it looks nice.



i chose a dark green for this shelf, to compliment the colors of the crypts and Anubias in the tank.



for my 65 South America tank, on the other hand, i painted with a light, bright green--close to the swords, Acorus and other plants in there.

finishing this shelf took a number of coats of primer, paint and varnish, but installation was easy. i used these little shelf brackets.

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Old 06-04-2010, 02:03 AM   #69
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This is such a simple and strong design, I love it. Most importantly, She Who Must Be Obeyed loves it as well.

I'm looking into recreating this design in oak for a 46 gallon bowfront. The only problem is supporting the curve on the front. I was thinking of using a 4x4 post for the front beam and have it extend all the way across to sit on top of the legs. This would support the full curve.

The only hitch is how to connect this up. The framing connectors that you use wouldn't work at this joint and I'm not seeing anything at Home Depot or online that would work. Any thoughts or suggestions?

As I wrote this and looked again at your pictures though, I see that there may be just enough room to put a small block there on the inside corner above the framing connector. I added an example to my drawing (#2).

Would that work? It's only going to have to support a very small area.

Thanks, and great design!
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Old 06-04-2010, 04:51 AM   #70
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simple and beautiful
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Old 06-04-2010, 05:02 AM   #71
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I don't think this will work well, because the front "beam" would barely be supported by the front legs, if at all. Something like this would work, but would be difficult to use the steel brackets on:
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Old 06-04-2010, 05:21 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
I don't think this will work well, because the front "beam" would barely be supported by the front legs, if at all. Something like this would work, but would be difficult to use the steel brackets on:
Not entirely sure what you're referring to because the curve wouldn't be extending past the frame as you're showing in your drawing. My design #2 is basically the same design as hydrophyte's original. The front horizontal beam would be supported by the framing connector and the tiny bit of the bowfront curve that misses this support would be supported by the addition of a small block. The outline of the tank is the grey that is over top of the black. The curve I've drawn is fairly accurate and should lay across the beams where I show it. (Also, I'm not trying to match the curve in the design of the stand; it will be a rectangular stand.)

As for design #1, the 4x4 horizontal post would be set on top of the front legs. The front legs would then be shorter than the back legs to accommodate for this. The problem is, how would I fasten it all together at those joints?
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Old 06-04-2010, 05:08 PM   #73
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Sorry, now I understand the sketches. No. 2 would work perfectly, giving you the appearance you want, and supporting the tank well. All you need to do is support the rim of the tank, since the bottom glass doesn't touch the stand, unless it is a rimless tank.
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:40 AM   #74
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I did something like that for a 72 gallon bowfront. I used 6 x 6 to support the bowed front. But the legs are shorter. I built a box that matched the tank frame and the legs do not touch the tank. The box sits on the legs.

I got a great deal on...
Western Red Cedar, kiln dried, select tight knot, rough.

My boss ordered some special cut sizes for an arbor (patio cover) and the lumber yard messed up. I got enough 6 x 6, 3 x 3, and 3 x 6 to make several tank stands. (With a few small scraps for use as dog chew toys)
I built them all with the basic plan of 4 pieces on top (rectangle the tank sits on), legs cut shorter so the box sits on the legs. The whole thing would stand up by itself without screws (until the wind blew it over). Screws and brackets are all inside, not exposed. However, they are all open style, no doors or walls on any of them.

I used different methods of sealing them. Some with lightly tinted stain that made the color richer (left over stain from refinishing my hardwood floor) but still allowed the grain to show. All were sealed with clear polyurethane. The rough finish of the wood ate through the brushes and pads I used to apply the stains and sealers.

Here is the plan for a larger tank. Again, note that the tank sits on a box which in turn sits on the legs.
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Old 06-07-2010, 04:04 AM   #75
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Wow, that's sweet! Did you make a thread about this anywhere else? I'd love to read more on it.

Right now I'm having trouble finding the wood to get started. I found cedar at Home Depot, but it's green... none of the local lumber yards have decent web sites so I'm going to start calling them soon. I'm hoping to find something in stock that I won't have to have cut or special ordered. We'll see...

Any thoughts on what types of wood would work for this? I'm trying to find oak first of all, but I think that's going to be tough.
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