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Old 12-12-2009, 10:54 PM   #196
Alpinist
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I just finished converting an old 48" angle-iron stand I've had for ever. It's utilitarian, but the look of a plain metal skeleton gets a bit old after awhile.

So I thought of a way to convert it to a wood stand, while still being able to switch back any time I needed to.

Here's what it looked like before:





I used oak veneer plywood for the ends, poplar for the tops of the front, solid oak for the vertical pieces, pine for the doors, and hemlock for the trim. The back-panel was the hardest part because I hadn't realized the 24x48 piece of plywood wouldn't cover the opening like I'd planned. Some improvisation was required, but it turned out pretty decent.

Here's a during:




Here's an after:




With the door's open. (First experience with european hinges; i love them). Haven't finalized cord management procedures yet. Will be adding CO2 next month so it's still up in the air.






For the method of attachment, each panel (front, two ends) is placed just right by some 1x1 guide pieces which sit inside the corner uprights on the metal stand. This centers and elevates the panels into the right place every time. The four corners of each panel are then clipped into the metal stands (no need to drill holes in the metal) with screen window clips. The key to cinching them down and taking out the slack was using the right amount of washers. One problem I ran into frequently was that the metal stand was not perfectly square or vertical, so other improvisations were needed from time to time. Another bonus, I'd paid for this wood months ago in anticipation of another project (router table), but never got around to using it. Some hardware, trim, and the wood for the doors was all I really needed to lay out.

This would take me less than two minutes to break down back into the metal stand.

Here's the attachment clips I spoke of:

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Old 12-12-2009, 11:19 PM   #197
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Good job. Well thought out.
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Old 12-13-2009, 02:37 AM   #198
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That looks very good, and it removes the wood from the need for it to hold up that tank.
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Old 01-07-2010, 12:10 AM   #199
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Default padauk

I made this one for a 90 gallon cube . The wood is Padauk wood and the color is the wood's natural color.
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:31 AM   #200
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That sound you thought you heard is dozens of jaws dropping in amazement.
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Old 01-08-2010, 03:04 PM   #201
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Quote:
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That sound you thought you heard is dozens of jaws dropping in amazement.

amen to that.... that thing is amazing!!!
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Old 01-08-2010, 04:35 PM   #202
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Wow! Beautiful, and a design I don't recall seeing before.
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Old 01-08-2010, 06:30 PM   #203
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Thanks guys
There is an x-frame underneath that runs from corner to corner to support the weight of the tank. The stand is actually made in three pieces to allow it to be set up in rooms with 30" or less door openings.
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:49 PM   #204
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Here's mine for my 24g aquapod its 3/4 ply and black formica all Blacked out

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Old 02-02-2010, 08:07 PM   #205
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ADA style stand with maple wood veneer. For a 5.5 gallon tank with some extra depth in the back to allow for a zoomed filter to sit behind the tank.
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Old 02-04-2010, 04:40 AM   #206
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and this is what's holding it =]



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Old 02-04-2010, 05:34 AM   #207
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Voytek and Dollface, those are very elegant looking, simple stands. It just shows how beautiful a basic simple stand can be with care in building and finishing it. Of course, the steel skeleton is unique and not at all simple, but the appearance of the finished stand totally hides that part, and that appearance can be duplicated using just plywood, with enough care.
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Old 02-04-2010, 05:45 AM   #208
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Voytek and Dollface, those are very elegant looking, simple stands. It just shows how beautiful a basic simple stand can be with care in building and finishing it. Of course, the steel skeleton is unique and not at all simple, but the appearance of the finished stand totally hides that part, and that appearance can be duplicated using just plywood, with enough care.

thanks Hoppy =)

I didn't know what's going to go over the skeleton, and metal angle-lines was what I had + working in a place where there is welding involved on top of me being paranoid about the structure to be able to support all that weight ( the tank is 42x31x20 ) made me go with that design =)

and yeah, I think that the less you try the better the sand comes out ( I mean, no trying to make anything fancy, just keep that wood, plain, non glossy coats etc and all of it is just my opinion =] )
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Old 02-04-2010, 06:51 PM   #209
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Here is the stand I made for my 75g paludarium. It is made of maple plywood with solid maple trim, and the style of the trim matches the maple furniture in the room. I did no engineering calculations whatsoever, but 3/4" plywood is pretty strong stuff, and there will only be 20 or so gallons of H20 in there, plus the weight of the viv. I probably should have cleaned off the sawdust before snapping the pictures.





The finish is about 3 coats of tung oil and about 3 of wipe-on poly. The canopy is just a simple 4-sided box with a support board in the middle that the lights are attached to. There is also a box for the back lights for the water; they are aimed at an internal polished aluminum reflector.

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Old 02-05-2010, 02:08 AM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tzen View Post
Here is the stand I made for my 75g paludarium. It is made of maple plywood with solid maple trim, and the style of the trim matches the maple furniture in the room. I did no engineering calculations whatsoever, but 3/4" plywood is pretty strong stuff, and there will only be 20 or so gallons of H20 in there, plus the weight of the viv. I probably should have cleaned off the sawdust before snapping the pictures.




The finish is about 3 coats of tung oil and about 3 of wipe-on poly. The canopy is just a simple 4-sided box with a support board in the middle that the lights are attached to. There is also a box for the back lights for the water; they are aimed at an internal polished aluminum reflector.
That is a great job of fitting the door, and keeping the grain matched so well. And, an oil finish like that is supposed to be one of the best ways to make the chatoyance in maple stand out. Lots more work, but worth the effort.
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