DIY canister filter - Page 2
Planted Tank Forums
Your Tanks Image Hosting *Tank Tracker * Plant Profiles Fish Profiles Planted Tank Guide Photo Gallery Articles

Go Back   The Planted Tank Forum > Specific Aspects of a Planted Tank > DIY


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-05-2009, 03:36 AM   #16
FBG
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 53
Default

Hipuks,

go ahead and run with it, I don't mind people using the design so long as you do not sell it. (as if anyone would buy it!)


gmccreedy,
I think I see issues with the design you showed..
if I have two valves on the line one for slowing down the flow rate and one for the rate of the bypass how will the pump suck water from the aquarium? if you have a pipe going from the aquarium directly into the outflow pipe and into the filter wont that create more problems for the pump? (i.e not filtering the majority of the water due to less resistance in the bypass)
the pump has a sliding cutoff thing on the housing not allowing a lot of water through the pump isn't the valve doing the same thing by just cutting off the amount of water the pump is pushing?


The way the filter works (for anyone) is I fill it up completely (to the top of the filter so water is flush with the lid. once it is completely full to the 12 cup mark the pump is plugged in and it pushes water through the lines thus creating a suction. once the suction is created it pulls from the only other open end which is in the aquarium.
I think it is much different than a sump but I don't know because I have never used one. they are not 100% airtight either right?
FBG is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-05-2009, 11:31 AM   #17
Gatekeeper
Planted Tank VIP
 
Gatekeeper's Avatar
 
PTrader: (96/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Earth
Posts: 6,621
Default

The outflow line is the one with the valve correct?

All I was saying is this... (you don't have to agree with me):

You have the valve on the outflow line. You are "turning it down" to restrict the amount of flow getting to the tank. This creates back pressure on the pump. These little pumps can handle some resistance, but I was only suggesting, why not remove the resistance all together.

So instead of just "restricting the flow to the tank, re-divert the "now converted backpressure" into a diversion pipe pack into the inflow of the filter.

If you don't get it, don't sweat it. Was only a suggestion.
__________________
Gatekeeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2009, 01:30 PM   #18
FBG
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 53
Default

well maybe I don't get it because of my long work and weird work hours...I'll take a look in a week when I can actually get more than a 5 hours of sleep.

I am all for making the design better so any suggestion I want to take seriously and at least see in theory if it'll work. Thank you for your suggestion I'll look at it again when I sleep more.
FBG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2009, 01:50 PM   #19
jargonchipmunk
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
PTrader: (10/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Kansas City, KS
Posts: 992
Default

the redirected water effecetively slows both flows down. With the one valve, you're slowing the outflow, increasing pressure on the other side, since the pump always wants to pump at the same speed. If you add the second valve, the pump will be moving water at its top speed all the time, and it's up to you how much of that water movement goes in the "endless loop" the redirected water creates, vs. how much water moves through the normal way. This way, if you only want, say 50gph moving through your tank from the filter, but the pump wants to push 90gph. The pump still gets to push 90, and you only have to have 50 flowing through the tank, since you can make the other 40 go into the "endless loop" to be recycled.

My only worry with this is heat. If this pump creates any heat in the water, this method will increase contact time with the pump significantly. I guess if you're not running into issues with the temp now, it shouldn't increase too much with this addition.

I'm no plumber but I think that's what he was suggesting.
jargonchipmunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2009, 03:17 PM   #20
Gatekeeper
Planted Tank VIP
 
Gatekeeper's Avatar
 
PTrader: (96/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Earth
Posts: 6,621
Default

jargonchipmunk,

Thank you... exactly where I was going with all that. Good point about the heat though!
__________________
Gatekeeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2009, 12:53 AM   #21
demosthenes
Planted Tank Enthusiast
 
demosthenes's Avatar
 
PTrader: (57/100%)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 927
Default

what pump did you use on this? how much did it cost?
__________________
Wilson
10g Globe l'Attente - As of 8/10, gone nano-reef!
46g High-Tech, last updated 1/14
demosthenes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2009, 12:59 AM   #22
FBG
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 53
Default

I got it for free actually. my grandmother was throwing away a fountain that she never used and i took the pump from it before it went into the trash.

I can look at the make of it if you want but it is a generic 80GPH pump.


Thank you jargonchipmunk. I have no heater on this aquarium and I use two T5 8watt bulbs (fixture is 2" away from the surface) and the water is warmer than room temp. (which is 73 right now) so it may be heating up.
FBG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2009, 05:17 AM   #23
FBG
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 53
Default

I went out today to get the PVC 1/2" gate valve but not one of the specialty plumbing store nor the homedepot or lowes had it.

There is one last place i am going to tomorrow that could have it and if not then UPS is coming to my house!
FBG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2009, 05:29 AM   #24
Pinto
Planted Member
 
Pinto's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: N/A
Posts: 225
Default

That is so awesome. Never thought this was possible.
Yes everything did start out as diys. Thanks for refreshing my memory ben314z.
Pinto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2009, 05:08 PM   #25
FBG
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 53
Default

Ok, well a few days ago I went into Lowe's to pick up a 5 gallon bucket. they happened to be next to the plumbing parts...well I found a CPVC dump and waste valve. (I think thats the name...) anyway, so I bought it for $4.00 and then two other fittings. 1/2" slip to 1/2" thread (which will fit onto PVC).

Previous valve


New valve


Fittings needed to make the valve work


This is not the best thing, but it will work fine and turns easily.


all the parts including the smallest piece of pipe I could find. ($1.50 for 5 feet)


measured the length of pipe needed by placing the valve on and marking the length of pipe that would enter the fitting


Glued and ready.


make sure to wrap teflon tape on the fittings.


Complete finally...



so now I can put fish/shrimp in the aquarium! I am glad that I can now without worrying about their health.
FBG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2009, 06:10 PM   #26
Regloh
Algae Farmer
 
PTrader: (8/100%)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Medford, MA
Posts: 683
Default

Nice,
I just read through the whole tread and was wondering what you did between February and now? Were you running the brass valve? Or did you have some kind of other filter on the tank? Just curious...

I like your canister filter, even if it may have been cheaper just to buy one.
Sometimes it is not about money

I must say, that I have never seen a gate valve in PVC like this. Most PVC valves are the 90 deg ball valves, that would be hard to control.

On the whole flow restricting the pump issue, you could check if you can find a pump chart for the pump (unlikely, i know) you could then see how much head would be required to reduce the flow rate to what you need. You can then in turn find out if the pump is capable of working in that load scenario. If yes, fine, if not you may be buying more pumps
__________________
Eheim Pimp #363 - 2213, 2217

Tank journals: 55g, 10g
Regloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2009, 11:36 PM   #27
FBG
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 53
Default

In regard to what I have been using...I was just using the brass valve...everything was doing alright for a while but the shrimp kept on dying and not producing babies. the two make endlers died as well sadly. (though they would have been culled if I were a select breeder.) I liked the brass valve much better, including the handle, but this was as close as I am goign to get.

no leaking or reduction of the suction. the smaller CPVC valve is restricting the flow perfectly fully open so now the valve will only be used to keep water in the pipes for instant start.
FBG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2009, 05:07 PM   #28
PDX-PLT
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NW Oregon
Posts: 292
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FBG View Post
Hipuks,

go ahead and run with it, I don't mind people using the design so long as you do not sell it. (as if anyone would buy it!)
FYI, just so you know, there's nothing legally prohibiting anyone else from selling copies of this, should they choose to do so (unless you happen to have a patent on it).

Also, about that CPVC valve:

It appears you used regular Schedule 40 (white) PVC pipe with the (beige) CPVC fittings. This is not a good idea. PVC and CPVC are two different systems with slightly different sizes. Schedule 40 PVC is sized based on the IPS (Iron Pipe Size) system. Its inner diameter is sized the same as iron pipe of the same trade size; i.e., a 1/2" piece of Schedule 40 has an I.D. of close to 1/2". PVC cannot tolerate hot water and thus is not used for indoor plumbing.

CPVC is acceptable for use with hot water. It is sized according to the CTS (Copper Tube Size) system The relevant dimension is the outer diameter, which is the same as that as copper tubing. PEX tubing, now used for most new residential plumbing, is also sized this way.

So in the case of 1/2" CPVC tubing, the the O.D. is .625" (5/8). Constrast that with the O.D. of Scedule 40 PVC pipe, which is .840". In other words, 1/2" PVC won't fit into 1/2" CPVC fittings. It's tempting to try to use 1/2" PVC pipe with 3/4" CPVC fittings, since the fittings are designed to work with tubing with an OD of 7/8" (.875"). It'll fit, but it'll be loose. If this was a full-pressure system, it would probably leak.
PDX-PLT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2009, 06:47 PM   #29
FBG
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 53
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PDX-PLT View Post
Also, about that CPVC valve:

It appears you used regular Schedule 40 (white) PVC pipe with the (beige) CPVC fittings. This is not a good idea. PVC and CPVC are two different systems with slightly different sizes. Schedule 40 PVC is sized based on the IPS (Iron Pipe Size) system. Its inner diameter is sized the same as iron pipe of the same trade size; i.e., a 1/2" piece of Schedule 40 has an I.D. of close to 1/2". PVC cannot tolerate hot water and thus is not used for indoor plumbing.

CPVC is acceptable for use with hot water. It is sized according to the CTS (Copper Tube Size) system The relevant dimension is the outer diameter, which is the same as that as copper tubing. PEX tubing, now used for most new residential plumbing, is also sized this way.

So in the case of 1/2" CPVC tubing, the the O.D. is .625" (5/8). Constrast that with the O.D. of Scedule 40 PVC pipe, which is .840". In other words, 1/2" PVC won't fit into 1/2" CPVC fittings. It's tempting to try to use 1/2" PVC pipe with 3/4" CPVC fittings, since the fittings are designed to work with tubing with an OD of 7/8" (.875"). It'll fit, but it'll be loose. If this was a full-pressure system, it would probably leak.
I am not sure if I am incorrect or if you are, but I would bet I am on this matter.

I knew that CPVC is a different sized pipe. So I went to the fitting section and found the PVC fitting I had on the filter. then fit the two together. Before the Teflon tape it was a tight fit...whether or not this is by chance or because i found a CPVC-PVC fitting I do not know. But what I do know is that the 1/2" PVC male thread fits well on the 1/2" CPVC female thread.

I will keep na eye out for changes in the system in case the fittings do fail, if they do I'll have to order another valve over the internet that is PVC. Thank you for alerting me to the potential problem PXD-PLT.
FBG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2009, 01:16 PM   #30
PDX-PLT
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NW Oregon
Posts: 292
Default

Sorry about not being clear: there's no problem mixing CPVC and PVC threaded fittings. Or brass, copper, or galvanized fittings for that matter - they're all the same size. The problem potentially arises if you mix PVC and CPVC in a glued (welded) connection. From the pictures it looks like that was done in one instance, although it may just be because the colors are off. In a low-pressure use like this is might be OK, but at house plumbing pressures (>40 psi) it would be really asking for trouble.
PDX-PLT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 04:46 AM.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright Planted Tank LLC 2012