Complexity Journal: 75g "High Tech" Planted Tank / New pics 8-24-2012! - Page 4
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:12 PM   #46
ingg
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One thing I have learned for sure. I need a taller ladder. My 3 step ladder just isn't tall enough. It's not easy to reach all the way into that tank!
Long tweezers are your friend. BigStick120 has been selling some nice 12" ones, both straight end and bent end.

I'd lose my mind trying to reach the bottom of my tanks all the time. With the exception of pulling grown in crypts.... I don't. Tweezers do.
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Old 07-12-2008, 06:47 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by lauraleellbp View Post
Hey Vicki, have you seen these? http://www.rosenthalpottery.com/

I just ran across this site and immediately thought of you...
Thanks, Laura Lee! I actually did see them a while ago, but they're still not making what I want as far as looking natural.

I've cut numerous clay pots with differently shaped holes, but when I tried to dye them, they didn't really take on much of the dye. So that's not going to work. I had hoped to dye them black or at least a dark color so the orange wouldn't show on the inside even after I've camouflaged the outside. So I'm still working on it.

Bad news though, regarding one of my Kribs. I found one of my pelvicachromis taeniatus "nigerian red" dead. I'm not sure if it's the male or female because they were the two that always hide the most. It appears she was attached. I say "she" because I think it was the female, and I suspect the male is the one that killed her. Those two never did pair off very well. Fortunately, the others are doing well.

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Originally Posted by ingg View Post
Long tweezers are your friend.
I can't agree more! However, even with 12" tweezers, my back is still hurting from having to lean into the tank. My step ladder has 3 steps, probably about 3' tall in all. And that's still not enough for my 5'4" body height. I literally have to put my upper body inside the tank to reach the bottom in order to plant things, including when using tweezers. However, it is easier with the tweezers.

I am so very glad I didn't end up with the 90g tank I first had. I don't know if I could have managed the care for one that tall!
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90g - Journal Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe' 75g - Journal Pelvicachromis pulcher 'Lagos Red' Better Pics 8-24
29g - Journal Pelvicachromis pulcher 'unknown' -- 29g - Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe'
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Old 07-13-2008, 05:24 PM   #48
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Update:

I'm running only 2 of my 4 bulbs, but I'm already getting a little red on a couple of plants. I received some Blyxa japonica in a trade (MiSo sent me a LOT as extras), and I am completely in love with this plant! I can't wait until I get things mature enough so that I can offer some to others. I think a lot of people will love this plant.

My anubias is going south on me for reasons I cannot figure out. The leaves are just becoming skeletonized very rapidly. Other leaves that are absolutely perfect in appearance are detaching at the base. I don't know why. Some aren't doing this, but most are.

I'm also seeing the beginnings of BBA (black beard algae) which is really making me cringe. I did this to myself by getting plants that already had BBA (and was advertised as such so it was all very honest). I thought bleaching the plants would have stopped it, but now I'm seeing some in my mosses and a few beginning spots on my healthy anubias. I'm working to increase my CO2. I'm also considering spot treating with excel to stop it before it becomes a real problem.

I received my pH controller, but haven't had time to install it yet. I will try to do that today.

All fish look great except the one dead Krib as I mentioned above. I have seen a couple fish appear to be flashing, but I'm not sure because I've only seen it occasionally. They're showing no signs of illness, and the movement that I'm taking as flashing could be just nibbling on leaves (the torpedo barbs nibble a little).

I added another 10 cardinal tetras that had been in Q/T for over 3 weeks. Not a single death! So that gives me a shoal of 21. They are clearly very comfortable because they don't shoal, much to my chagrin. I want to add some more. They are beautiful under the moonlights.

Oh, I lied about sick fish. I just remembered that I had to put one guppy down and another guppy has just disappeared. I think it's the torpedo barbs. I've seen them chase the guppies at times. I think they're going after their tails. One young male guppy lost a good part of his tail, but it's regrowing and the guppy himself has recovered from the trauma. Another, older, guppy lost its tail and was much too traumatized so I put him down. I'm missing another 1-2 guppies. The tank is so full of plants, they may have died and been eaten without me seeing them.

Riccia is attached to small pieces of slate and is growing wonderfully.

The tank, in general, looks like a mess. And I have a bunch of hornwort coming in this week to help keep the algae at bay, but that will really make things look like a mess. I've given up on trying to have any kind of actual aquascape at this point, and am focusing on getting the plants healthy. I have quite a few plants that came in as extras from trades that I need to plant. They're floating in my 20L, growing great roots! So if I can find a piece of substrate that's not filled with plants, I'll try to add those in so I can have more stems growing in while the hornwort helps me to work on getting the lights, ferts and CO2 balanced.

I have a few pictures I'll try to post later, if I don't run out of time.
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90g - Journal Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe' 75g - Journal Pelvicachromis pulcher 'Lagos Red' Better Pics 8-24
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Old 07-14-2008, 05:32 PM   #49
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Today's update:

I now have the pH controller running to keep my CO2 levels steady, day and night. I needed a bit of help installing it because the instructions were vague and my old eyes could not see the little slot for the screw inside the calibration hole on the front.

I then went through a night of concern, fearing having too much CO2 for the fish while the lights were turned off, but with the help of gmccreedy, I got through the night with everything doing well.

Just for my journal records, here's the thread where I received help in installing the pH controller: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/eq...alling-my.html

Things are looking reasonably good with the anubias having the hardest time. I'm hoping the pH controller can help keep the CO2 levels stable so I can nip the BBA in the bud before it becomes a big problem. I'm starting to try to spot treat the BBA with Excel.

I'll have to get some pictures posted soon. Been busy with my younger daughter in driver's ed. So I've been letting her drive me in circles in empty parking lots and low traffic streets while I clinch my teeth! So my picture taking isn't getting as much action as I'd like. But, hopefully soon, I'll have something to post.
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90g - Journal Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe' 75g - Journal Pelvicachromis pulcher 'Lagos Red' Better Pics 8-24
29g - Journal Pelvicachromis pulcher 'unknown' -- 29g - Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe'
5g - RCS colony 2.5g - Journal Retired
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Old 07-14-2008, 10:00 PM   #50
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Sweet! I have a ph controller too, and so far I have not set it up. I want to make sure I do it and right as well.
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Old 07-14-2008, 10:27 PM   #51
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If yours is the same controller as mine, the thread I linked to should get you going. You can save face from my mess-ups!
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90g - Journal Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe' 75g - Journal Pelvicachromis pulcher 'Lagos Red' Better Pics 8-24
29g - Journal Pelvicachromis pulcher 'unknown' -- 29g - Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe'
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Old 07-15-2008, 12:36 AM   #52
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Not the same, but similar. The thread will help though
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Old 07-17-2008, 06:44 PM   #53
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Exclamation Oh, please no! ICH!

Oh, no, please don't let it be.

ICH!

I knew it was going to happen. I've been adding too many things (plants) from too many sources with too many changes, stressing out all of the fish too much of the time. And sure enough, I just saw the first signs of ich in my tank.

One of my larger cardinal tetras has a large, unmistakable white spot near his tail. Thankfully, I surprised even myself by being able to net him quickly. He's now in one of my 5g tanks with the anubias suffering from BBA. I just put the Rid Ich + in the tank.

But this really throws a curve ball in things. I was just about to do a 3 day blackout on the tank. But 3 days is more than sufficient time for ich to spread throughout. So I have to be able to see the fish very closely as often as possible to look for any other signs of ich.

So I think I'll switch to the spot treatment of H202 for the BBA with water changes afterwards. The water changes will be good for a possible ich breakout because it will (1) remove some ich in the water and (2) will ensure fresh, clean water for the fish, giving them the best possible water conditions I can give them.

I'm so frustrated right now. BBA and ich at the same time.
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90g - Journal Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe' 75g - Journal Pelvicachromis pulcher 'Lagos Red' Better Pics 8-24
29g - Journal Pelvicachromis pulcher 'unknown' -- 29g - Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe'
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Old 07-17-2008, 07:38 PM   #54
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Have you been putting plants in the tank without QT'ing them? Sometimes people forget that ich can be transported on plants as well if they come from tanks with fish.

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Old 07-17-2008, 07:58 PM   #55
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Yes and no. I Q/T'd the plants I added about a week ago. They went through a 3+ week of Q/T along with some new cardinals (not the larger one that has the spot).

I just added hornwort yesterday, but that's too fast for ich to make a large spot. I got the hornwort from Bonnie's Plants on eBay, and she claims to disinfect the plants before shipping them. I also did a very thorough rinsing job on the plants (not that it would kill ich, of course).

I'm not sure how the ich got introduced, but clearly, it was. I may have introduced it from a SNS plant. I'll have to double check the dates, but I think I may have added some about week or so ago. That would be enough time for the ich to find a host, attach itself, and to create the visible white spot.

And then with the anubias going sour on me, I'm sure it affected the water quality. That's why I did such a good job of vacuuming the tank yesterday and cleaned my Rena canister on the same day (I usually don't do both at one time). I got a lot of dead/dying debris from the melting anubias.

Combining all that with the fact that I have been constantly changing things in the tank (adding anubias, removing anubias, adding hornwort, moving rocks around, adding other plants, constantly replanting plants that float back up), I've been worried about how much this has stressed out the fish. It seems that I was right to be concerned. If I managed to get some ich in the tank, stressed fish will succumb to it.

For now, whenever I'm gone, the lights will be turned off. When I'm there, I'll turn the lights on to do a very thorough inspection of all the fish. I'll also start performing daily 50% water changes with good vacuuming. I just hope I caught this in time to prevent a full ich assault.
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90g - Journal Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe' 75g - Journal Pelvicachromis pulcher 'Lagos Red' Better Pics 8-24
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Old 07-17-2008, 08:17 PM   #56
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i would add a small (too small to kill plants) amount of salt in your tank, just to make life a little more difficult for the ich. i would also raise the temp, so you can see if there is more (which there almost definately is). in the QT/hospital tank, i would add salt and raise the temps in addition to the medication.

for bba, i successfully got rid of it with excel OD and spot dosing. it still shows up from time to time in my moss, but its gone in a day or two as i keep SAE (after the ich is dead, you should add some). though its hard to kill, it (IME) doesnt really spread fast enough to smother most plants, it just looks very unsightly.
bleaching can kill it if used for 2 minutes or more.
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Old 07-17-2008, 09:16 PM   #57
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I'm a little scared of adding salt at this point. I don't know what fish or plants can benefit or be harmed by it, and I don't know how well my amanos can handle salt. I'll have to do a lot more research before I jump to adding salt.

I'm not real sure at the moment that I want to raise the temps. I'd rather have ich in the substrate than free swimming right now. That gives the uv sterilizer more time to kill out what it can (before it becomes free-swimming), and buys me more time to do more vacuuming, water changes, and to stop stressing the fish.

I'll have to go back and double check, but exactly which stage of the ich life cycle is sped up with the heat? If it's the stage after it's dropped off the fish and before it becomes free swimming, then I want to keep it there. I'd only raise the temperature to speed up the life cycle if I was using meds or taking other action to kill it.

But there is a risk of causing a lot of ich to suddenly become free swimming when you're not using medicines. The more free swimming ich there is, the more that can attack the fish. Since I've only seen one spot so far, I'd like to keep the away from becoming free swimming as much as possible to allow other means to help remove the ich.

My HOPE is that I got just a few parasites introduced into the tank, one attached itself to the cardinal tetra, I removed that fish before that ich could drop and multiply, leaning very little ich in the tank.

I realize this is backwards to almost any advice given, including my own, but I'm at the very beginning stages and not a full breakout. Obviously, if I see a full breakout, then I will change course immediately.
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90g - Journal Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe' 75g - Journal Pelvicachromis pulcher 'Lagos Red' Better Pics 8-24
29g - Journal Pelvicachromis pulcher 'unknown' -- 29g - Pelvicachromis taeniatus 'Moliwe'
5g - RCS colony 2.5g - Journal Retired
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Old 07-17-2008, 11:57 PM   #58
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well, if you put really little (like 1/4 or less of the reccomended dose) then your plants will be hurt extremely little, and if its only for a little (like a few weeks), it wont even become visible. your fish will barely feel the affects. the ich will also barely be affected, but it will be hurt more then the fish, giving the fish an edge.

im no expert, but im 99.9999% certain amanos wont mind a little salt. their shrimplets live in a marine environment. but again, i never tried it, consult a shrimp expert.

as far as i understand, all of them. but i never really reviewed what i know, because only my very first fish had ich.

you will still get full-blown ich in that tank with the sole tetra, and you cannot remove the tetra after the ich drops until after you beat the breakout (and wait an additional 2-3 weeks or so, just in case).
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Old 07-18-2008, 01:27 AM   #59
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How very ironic!

You know Les' solution- "Get 2 Eheims and..."

Here's the article I keep bookmarked on Ich, runs down salt and several other treatment methods: http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/ich.shtml

Setting up a new tank is mostly fun... except for when it comes to this part.

GL Vicki!
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Old 07-18-2008, 03:17 AM   #60
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i never had that problem, except with my first fish years ago: 3 feeder gold fish (of course dead in the morning).
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