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Old 07-04-2014, 04:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scx View Post
Get rid of the rock in there. It's way too big and soft looking
Already did! lol
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Old 07-04-2014, 05:01 PM   #17
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I am curious about filtration as well. I suspect the 10 gallon whisper filter that I have in there is not going to cut it. I had originally planned on upgrading to a Fluval C2 but I wonder if that is going to be enough.

Any suggestions on HOB filter I should use on a 10 gallon. I would love to do a Canister but I am limited on space to place it so HOB is what I have to use.

Thanks for the advice folks!
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Old 07-04-2014, 06:05 PM   #18
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One question at a time...LOL...
Algae/CO2: Look at the link again. The T5 chart. Look at the section directly above it "Low, med high light" to find where you need CO2.
Only Osmocote+ tabs(actually capsules) have all nutrients. The rest have only part of the nutrients. In a tank that size, I would just use no more than 4 of them in there.
Spread them right down the center evenly spaced(one end to the other) but don't use them frequently. Just once every 5 months. These can build up if used more. They have coating which makes them time release. This link is from someone on here.
They sell plant "stuff".
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...393&highlight=
A good up-grade is actually the Aquaclear 20. It lets you pick the media. They are known for long life.
http://www.petmountain.com/product/a...er-filter.html
But yes that would mean buying the media also.
Look like the Satalite light may be right for you as you can gradually turn it up as needed by your plants. You might look into that to see if it fits your budget on this
as it can add up fast.
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Old 07-04-2014, 06:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond S. View Post
One question at a time...LOL...
Algae/CO2: Look at the link again. The T5 chart. Look at the section directly above it "Low, med high light" to find where you need CO2.
Only Osmocote+ tabs(actually capsules) have all nutrients. The rest have only part of the nutrients. In a tank that size, I would just use no more than 4 of them in there.
Spread them right down the center evenly spaced(one end to the other) but don't use them frequently. Just once every 5 months. These can build up if used more. They have coating which makes them time release. This link is from someone on here.
They sell plant "stuff".
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...393&highlight=
A good up-grade is actually the Aquaclear 20. It lets you pick the media. They are known for long life.
http://www.petmountain.com/product/a...er-filter.html
But yes that would mean buying the media also.
Look like the Satalite light may be right for you as you can gradually turn it up as needed by your plants. You might look into that to see if it fits your budget on this
as it can add up fast.

Raymond you are a life saver I have got to tell you!

All three of your suggestions are perfect.

I do have a question about the Osmocote+ though. Should I be using it in conjunction with the Florish or in stead of?
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Old 07-04-2014, 10:00 PM   #20
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Flourish is a Micro fert. By it's self, incomplete. It should be used/w a Macro type fert.
Let me suggest something. Read the first post on this link and the "Darkblade48" answers to it. Should give a better perspective of the whole picture.
Bare in mind that increasing the amount of carbon artificially is done by quite a few but not a necessary thing unless you are using higher levels of light.
But it dose increase the plant growth speed and also the overall cost of your tank "stuff". Starting/w a regular lower level of light and not using added carbon keeps things slower and easier to maintain as well as keeping down the cost of a tank.
The Amazons likely you will plant to see how they look, but getrid of in a couple of months as they get far too big for a 10g. The next three are plants which get ferts from the water. So the answer is you should use them both but you will need more than just the Flourish to dose because those three plants won't get all the nutrients from just the Flourish. Were it not for them, the other plants could get full ferts from the root tabs and extra from the Flourish and since the root tabs would give them the full nutrients, the Flourish would be OK because it's just extra.
But read the start of that thread as we are getting ahead of it now.
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Old 07-05-2014, 04:25 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond S. View Post
Flourish is a Micro fert. By it's self, incomplete. It should be used/w a Macro type fert.
Let me suggest something. Read the first post on this link and the "Darkblade48" answers to it. Should give a better perspective of the whole picture.
Bare in mind that increasing the amount of carbon artificially is done by quite a few but not a necessary thing unless you are using higher levels of light.
But it dose increase the plant growth speed and also the overall cost of your tank "stuff". Starting/w a regular lower level of light and not using added carbon keeps things slower and easier to maintain as well as keeping down the cost of a tank.
The Amazons likely you will plant to see how they look, but getrid of in a couple of months as they get far too big for a 10g. The next three are plants which get ferts from the water. So the answer is you should use them both but you will need more than just the Flourish to dose because those three plants won't get all the nutrients from just the Flourish. Were it not for them, the other plants could get full ferts from the root tabs and extra from the Flourish and since the root tabs would give them the full nutrients, the Flourish would be OK because it's just extra.
But read the start of that thread as we are getting ahead of it now.
I am not sure if I found the specific post you meant for me to look at but, I found the write up by Darkblade48 and his guide. Let me suggest that EVERYONE be required to read that guide before doing their first post here! lol Very simple to follow and really helps make sense.

Thanks Ray.

I also got a chance to look at the "list" of low light plants. I think I am going to be doing some swapping out of plants later.. The bunch that I got off of the ebay reseller was a decent selection of plants but it didn't cater to a low light setup.
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Old 07-05-2014, 05:04 AM   #22
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True, except for the Wisteria which will grow in any light, the rest of the plants marked "Stemmed plants" are more for med light level or at least would grow much better in it. Crypt Parva likes high light and likely a couple of other Crypts may also but the Wendtii will work in lower light and the Java fern does better in it. That and Anubias may seem to grow faster(a bit) in med light but will collect algae on their leaves which will kill any leaf it gets thick on. Those two plants grow very slowly.
They may only get one leaf a month. And that Java Fern, the leaf will look funny as it grows as the tip end of it will have less color. This gave me the impression that it wasn't getting enough light on the first time I grew one. Just the way it grows though.
Also as Anubias has leaves longer than regular plants, when one gets ready to die, it turns yellow. This often happens when the pants environment is changed so a person who never had one thinks the whole plant is dieing on them...not. Just loosing one or two older leaves as a result of the move.
The Wisteria, if it has round leaves is an emersed growth plant. This changes when it begins being grown under water. The leaves which come out are a different shape.
The older ones will die off during this transition but it will start slowly.
Java Fern and Anubias have Rhysomes which look like it has a stem going across the bottom of the leaves. This must not be planted. Only the roots which hang down from it should be planted. So these plants are often tied to wood/rocks which they eventually will root to. But then that is why the root tabs don't work for them and the Java moss.
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Old 07-05-2014, 08:43 PM   #23
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I read somewhere that I shouldn't perform a water change for a while after my initial set up... When should I start water changes?
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Old 07-06-2014, 02:25 AM   #24
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My computer being sickly due to still being on XP which has become corrupted, I can't
give you a link for this one. Put AqAdvisor into search and you will get a site which
gives when and how much by a number of factors. And need I say most don't 100% trust it, but it's close enough in most cases.
But once you add fish/shrimp or whatever other critters your mind devises to put in there, it should begin at whatever time interval the calculator says is right.
Most seem to believe the environment is better for their fish if that is a weekly basis.
But that "most" seems to be not that much over 50-60% of tank owners as some prefer to do monthly changes. Lots of people who keep shrimp say the shrimp don't like changes and do monthly. One fert system uses monthly...so monthly is almost as common as weekly but I dare not guess a percent on it.
Whatever you have decided as intervals, it would be that amount of time after introducing livestock. This is after the cycle of course, which should be before fish are added.
http://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm
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Old 07-06-2014, 05:17 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond S. View Post
My computer being sickly due to still being on XP which has become corrupted, I can't
give you a link for this one. Put AqAdvisor into search and you will get a site which
gives when and how much by a number of factors. And need I say most don't 100% trust it, but it's close enough in most cases.
But once you add fish/shrimp or whatever other critters your mind devises to put in there, it should begin at whatever time interval the calculator says is right.
Most seem to believe the environment is better for their fish if that is a weekly basis.
But that "most" seems to be not that much over 50-60% of tank owners as some prefer to do monthly changes. Lots of people who keep shrimp say the shrimp don't like changes and do monthly. One fert system uses monthly...so monthly is almost as common as weekly but I dare not guess a percent on it.
Whatever you have decided as intervals, it would be that amount of time after introducing livestock. This is after the cycle of course, which should be before fish are added.
http://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm
AqAdvisor is DOWN lol.
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Old 07-06-2014, 05:58 PM   #26
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Your first planted aquarium how exciting. I have been looking through all the threads posted here and everyone seems to have given you good advice so I will add my two cents. I agree with SCX on getting rid of the rock due to its size. As far as lighting goes if you want an LED fixture you can look at the Finnex fugeray planted plus. I also would not rule out fluorescent fixtures either. I have used a couple different fluorescent combinations in my 10 gallon I had and was successful. I used two 20 watt 6500K CFL house bulbs in the stock hood and I also used a 11 watt with a 8 watt T2 fixture after I wanted to get rid of the hood due to condensation. All of my lights were successful. Here is a pic with the 2 cfl bulbs. Unfortunately due to a computer virus I don't have the pics of it with the T2 fixture, but I have one of my 5 gallon with it so you can compare.

10 gallon

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/...psece9a491.jpg

5 Gallon

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1fc2f15f.jpg

No matter what fixture you decide to use keep this in mind. If you start getting an algae problem you can always shorten your light cycle and get algae eating fish to help with the issue. That's what I did.
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:34 PM   #27
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Quote:
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But it was the light that I was asking about your being exact about because I think it just has three 1W LED bulbs ? I was looking at the light coming down in the tank on the first picture.
.

I have been pouring over the advice and feedback I have been getting because I wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything and in case I had some other questions... TOTALLY Missed the above quoted part! lol.

So I did some research on the hood that comes with the tank and I found this reply direct from Tetra: The LED hoods are only 5500-5900 Kelvin, and plants require 6500 Kelvin or better. We would recommend a glass canopy and either the Aquatic Plant Lighting System or you could use the hood, but add a Hidden LED light to the tank as well. These come in lengths of 17" and 21" and are 6500 Kelvin, 460 nm, ideal for live plants. They tuck away under the top frame of the tank, so you can place it in the front of the tank, for example, and not see it, but get the benefits of the light. The light is strong enough to grow moderate to high light needy plants

K measurement: - 6000K - 7.4 lumens per LED under ideal conditions - Each of the LEDs in the kit light is 60mW

Another person asked: I have a Tetra 10 gallon tank with the new low profile lid and LED lights, will I be able to at least keep low light plants such as Java fern, Java moss, or Jungle val?

Got to give them credit for this though: Some of those low light plants will live in that kit, yes, but will not necessarily grow or bloom under that light. If you find they do not grow or bloom, you could always add the Hidden LED in the 17" length, by Marineland


So they freely admit that the lighting is not good enough for planted tanks.
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Old 07-08-2014, 06:23 AM   #28
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*** TANK UPDATE ****

So its been just over a week since I started this adventure. Here is what has changed.

I got rid of the big rock that was in there. I think I may add another piece of driftwood later though.
I went ahead and purchased a Aquaclear 20 and set it up in the tank. I just put it along side the whisper filter that came with the kit. In the AC20 I put a bag of Purigen in the filter in place of the carbon. (I cannot believe how clear that stuff makes the water)
I obtained a bottle of Flourish and some of the Osmocote+ that Ray suggested for root tabs. (Still need advice on Dosing on the Flourish....)
BTW Which is better Seachem Flourish Excel or API CO2 Booster
Since I cannot get a better light (just yet) I stole the "Marineland Hidden LED Lighting System" (The website has posted specs at 25 PAR @ 12") from my 75 Gallon Red Eared Slider Turtle Tank (It's his night light) to put in there in the mean time.
My plan is to get the Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights within the next month. (Alternative suggestions welcome)

Here are pictures of the new tank, this is with the original LED lights that came in the hood.







These are the with the added light






And Close-ups of the plants.











Again Feedback (both positive and constructive) are always welcome!
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Old 07-08-2014, 04:00 PM   #29
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So try to remember that Java Fern and Anubia need to be with the Rhysome above the gravel. The part which looks like a stem going across the bottom of the leaves.
Only the roots which hang down from the Rhysome can be planted in the sub.
A while back I planted one of each of those on, not in the bottom by just using those lead plant weights laid across the Rhysome to hold it down to the bottom till it rooted by it's self. then I took off the weights. Was about 60 days to root it that way.
Next time you are in a shop ask to see a Anubias Nana. That would be a better size for that tank. The one you have will get fairly large.
My lease does not allow over 10g tank. So I have two of them. I find it hard to find plants I like that are small enough.
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Old 07-08-2014, 04:52 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond S. View Post
So try to remember that Java Fern and Anubia need to be with the Rhysome above the gravel. The part which looks like a stem going across the bottom of the leaves.
Only the roots which hang down from the Rhysome can be planted in the sub.
A while back I planted one of each of those on, not in the bottom by just using those lead plant weights laid across the Rhysome to hold it down to the bottom till it rooted by it's self. then I took off the weights. Was about 60 days to root it that way.
Next time you are in a shop ask to see a Anubias Nana. That would be a better size for that tank. The one you have will get fairly large.
My lease does not allow over 10g tank. So I have two of them. I find it hard to find plants I like that are small enough.
Thanks Raymond, I will look for them for sure.
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