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Old 08-06-2008, 02:00 AM   #31
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Homage to a great DIY, thanks Wasserpest for bringing it to the masses.

I refitted a rack mounted power strip with relays to get a nicer look. $35 on top of Wasserpests estimate. Note to everybody thinking about this, BUY 24 VAC relays not DC relay. DC relays will make a funny noise while switching I learned...

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Old 08-06-2008, 05:02 PM   #32
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Ooooh! That is looking nice. Thanks for sharing Jens. And good point about the relays... DC type things don't like to be feed with AC.

Do you have the switches on your rack mount connected to the outlets to override them?
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Old 08-06-2008, 05:07 PM   #33
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A la Wasser-Controller Pro or Wasser-Controller V.2?
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Old 08-06-2008, 08:18 PM   #34
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Do you have the switches on your rack mount connected to the outlets to override them?
Thanks! And yes, the switches will override the timer-controlled relays for ON-operation.

Nice if you like to kick off a water change or dosing manually.
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Old 08-06-2008, 08:57 PM   #35
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Jens,

If you have the switch "on" and the controller activates the relay due to a timed sequence, will this short the system? I guess what I am asking, you have the switch and relay running parallel I presume?
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:47 PM   #36
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The switch would be running parallel to the controller and not short anything.
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Old 09-11-2008, 07:52 PM   #37
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I was doing some research and stumbled across this (very nice) setup. I was going to do something similar using a PLC that I have kicking around, but after seeing your set up I am favoring your relay logic vs. my PLC.

I understand the whole system is protected by whatever outlet you house is rated for, for example you most likely on a 20A or 30A house circuit breaker. But what are youíre thought on protecting the main 120V coming to the outlets with a fuse or protecting each branch with their own fuse? I might be over thinking the set up or I just might be over paranoid, but just wanted to get some thoughts and make sure I donítí burn down the house.
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Old 09-11-2008, 08:33 PM   #38
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I hope the regular circuit breaker is sufficient. Rather than using circuit breakers for each outlet, I would consider to upgrade the relay wiring. Maybe find relay sockets with more secure connections... soldering directly to the relay pins isn't the the best solution.

The whole thing is plugged into a GFCI protected outlet. Separate circuits might be good for reef tanks with lots of metal halides and big pumps, my 100gal setup draws less than 300W, plus another 200W (rarely) when the heater kicks in.
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Old 09-11-2008, 09:21 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasserpest View Post
I hope the regular circuit breaker is sufficient. Rather than using circuit breakers for each outlet, I would consider to upgrade the relay wiring. Maybe find relay sockets with more secure connections... soldering directly to the relay pins isn't the the best solution.

The whole thing is plugged into a GFCI protected outlet. Separate circuits might be good for reef tanks with lots of metal halides and big pumps, my 100gal setup draws less than 300W, plus another 200W (rarely) when the heater kicks in.
Nice and good idea.
You can get relay sockets the same place you get the relays providing they are not PCB mount . Yea the sockets are the only thing I would do different.
Keep it up and great job!!!
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Old 10-11-2008, 04:39 AM   #40
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Default Application of the Wasser-Controller for dosing

I consider application of the Wasser-Controller for dosing with SP100 peristaltic pumps. My plan is to convert 24VAC control signal into DC driving SP101.051 pump.
According to the SP 101 spec sheet SP101.051 draws upto 75ma @24VDC and pumps about 2.1 ml/min. 8006 irrigation controller supplies 24 VAC, 0.27 amps per station, which should be sufficient to drive SP100.
What do you guys think? Will this work? How would I convert 24VAC to 24VDC?
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Old 05-14-2009, 03:14 PM   #41
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Anyone know of a different controller that will work like the DIG 8006? I think it needs to be a drip irrigation timer (longer times and should be able to overlap zones), but I'm not finding anything out there.

Just hoping someone have found something that will work.

thanks,
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Old 05-14-2009, 07:36 PM   #42
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When I originally researched this, I checked the other commonly used brands (Rainbird, Orbit) and they didn't have anything that combined everything needed to make it work. I was about to throw in the towel, when I came across the DIG.

I believe they are still sold here. If you'd like I can check the price and send it to you for that plus shipping. You could also check w/ Glenn (gmccreedy) to see if he has one for sale, not sure.
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Old 05-15-2009, 12:43 AM   #43
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Quote:
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You could also check w/ Glenn (gmccreedy) to see if he has one for sale, not sure.
I got that baby working OT on my emersed setup!
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Old 05-15-2009, 02:31 PM   #44
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Alright, I wasn't sure...

HDTV - I'll check and let you know next week.
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Old 06-19-2009, 05:19 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens View Post
Homage to a great DIY, thanks Wasserpest for bringing it to the masses.

I refitted a rack mounted power strip with relays to get a nicer look. $35 on top of Wasserpests estimate. Note to everybody thinking about this, BUY 24 VAC relays not DC relay. DC relays will make a funny noise while switching I learned...

I know this thread is old, but I'm thinking of ditching my Coral Life Digital timers for a Wasser-Controller setup like you have. I found that same exact power supply for $34. Can you comment on the reliability of that power supply? Heat issues? Any problems at all? Anything you would do different?
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