Oxygenation with equipment question.
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Old 02-15-2004, 02:01 PM   #1
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Hello all,

This has to do with equipment, but also water parameters I guess, so here goes:

I got out of Marine, and am now getting into fresh, and a soon-to-be planted tank. I purchased an Oceanic 30 gal cube which I drilled the back of. I did this so that I would have no stacks, or have return tubes hanging off the edges (keeping it clean).

I've drilled a return hole with bulkhead at the centre near the top , and two returns with bulkheads left and right of that. Two returns means a split tube, because my filter might churn things up.

Since it's side-drilled, I was planning on building a small surface skimmer box, just like marine for more surface contact and gas exchange. BUT I was wondering if the Eheim 2227 I'm going to use with it would give me enough oxygenation for fish (and plants) as it has/needs its air intake tube to perform its wet-dry functions. If that was the case I wouldn't build the skimmer box, and would just put a small foam prefilter in the drainage bulkhead.

And thus, I leave this question to you pros, and eagerly await your answers, thanking you in advance.

Cheers
John

PS If anybody posts suggesting putting a bended piece on the return tubes and pointing upwards, I thought of that, but want as little hardware in the tank as possible.
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Old 02-15-2004, 03:10 PM   #2
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I'm not a pro but I don't think you need to worry about oxygen levels in a well planted tank. You also don't want surface agitation, mainly you want to add co2 and proper lighting then your water will be saturated with O2.
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Old 02-15-2004, 03:24 PM   #3
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I believed the 2227 is wet/dry filter with 150gl/hr output. So it should provide enough surface agitation for O2 exchange purpose if that is your concern. Your returns are close to the top anyway. Your plants will produce O2 also during the day. I have a couple unplanted hexagons those have very little surface movements and the fish are doing fine. With planted tank you'll be fine for sure.
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Old 02-15-2004, 07:17 PM   #4
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Keep in mind also that the 2227 will not allow you to keep much co2 in your water. You'd be better off going with another filter or bypassing the wet/dry section if you can.
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Old 02-15-2004, 08:40 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies guys! :-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by George Willms
Keep in mind also that the 2227 will not allow you to keep much co2 in your water. You'd be better off going with another filter or bypassing the wet/dry section if you can.
ACK! Can I keep ANY plants in a setup like this then? I'd rather not get rid of the filter, as I just bought new media and a float valve. Would a moderately planted tank do well in this case? Lost cause? Fill the tank with rocks? Is there a "the rocked tank" website I could visit?
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Old 02-15-2004, 09:19 PM   #6
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I would go with your foam prefilter idea and somehow close off the air intake tube. This way you could still use the filter. How much light are you planning on using?
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Old 02-15-2004, 09:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George Willms
I would go with your foam prefilter idea and somehow close off the air intake tube. This way you could still use the filter. How much light are you planning on using?
Closing off the air tube is no problem, but I wonder if the filter would work properly with just the 2 baskets of substrate (?). Could I get away with some nice rockwork, driftwood and maybe two or three plants? The lighting I have right now is 2 Eclipse 15w Natural Daylight tubes. I was planning on retrofitting with some power compacts later. If I left the lights as-is, and the filter as-is would I be starving any plants (especially if I did no C02 injection, as it seems counterproductive to this particular filter)? Any recommendations for extremely hardy plants that like to be aerobically-challenged? I could always try and do a straight trade with somebody on a local forum for an Eheim 2215 if I had to, but again would prefer not.

PS Thanks for the input George
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Old 02-15-2004, 11:54 PM   #8
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Oh boy oh boy. The odds are not in your favor with this one my friend. You only have 1 watt per gallon and you have a tall tank. I don't know of anything that will really do good with 1 WPG. My suggestion would be, save the wet/dry for a saltwater setup or trade it with someone for a 2215 if you want. Then once you do that and upgrade to PC's, at least a 55 watt bulb, you'll be able to do a tank with some low-light plants.
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Old 02-16-2004, 12:19 AM   #9
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And lighting those 30 gallon cubes is a real bear since they only have a 20" strip light on them. IMHO the only way to light one is with a MH pendant.
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Old 02-16-2004, 02:10 PM   #10
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Thanks guys. I'm going to do some planning and rethinking here.

Cheers
John
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Old 02-20-2004, 04:03 PM   #11
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Alright, looks like we've moved on from filtering to lighting (which is fine by me) ;-)

So here's a question along the lighting line, and hopefully addressing your concerns about adequate lighting.

If I purchased a 20" 2x40w Moon Light CustomSeaLife hood, could the bulbs be taken out and replaced (at least the actinic)? Would that then be adequate lighting? Custom SeaLife has gone out of business - are these standard bulbs that one can find anywhere? I could leave the 10k in, and possibly buy another to replace the actinic.

Once again, I appreciate the help.

Cheers
John
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Old 02-21-2004, 01:13 AM   #12
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That would be decent lighting for the 30 gallon cube. 40 watt PC bulbs are not by any means standard. In fact very few places carry them at all. AH Supply only carries one type and it's a 5000k bulb.
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Old 02-22-2004, 07:51 PM   #13
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Thanks Rex,

I may do a buy on a bunch of replacement bulbs as well for when they degrade. If I bought bulbs lower than 40w would they still fire up? Do you know if the square base is a proprietary fit, or is that a standard one?
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Old 02-23-2004, 03:45 AM   #14
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Both the square pin and linear pin arrangement are standards. Gee, it's nice to have so many standards. But the linear pin bulbs seem to be easier to find and have a wider assortment here in the US. The 40 watt bulb that AH Supply sells has the linear pins.
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