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Old 02-10-2004, 08:25 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Negaprion
Just splurged and bought the Nikon D100 SLR. Any good photography tips for shooting a planted tank?
Head over to Nikonians.org

They have a forum dedicated to your D100
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Old 02-11-2004, 11:54 AM   #17
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Thats a great site. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:07 PM   #18
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This is a great thread. I just got a Digital Rebel and my head is spinning with the freedom of adjustability that I am totally not used to. Have any of you guys used the White Balance adjustments to compensate for the blue fluorescent light? There is a "Fluorescent" WB mode that I can't wait to try.

I'm a totaly newb when it comes to manual photography. So far my best luck has been in the Tv mode (with no flash) where I simply set the shutter speed as low as possible without blur, and go with as big an aperture (low f stop) as it allows to get the right exposure. But asmodion is right, the pictures still come out somewhat underexposed.

I need to try out some flash photography, like Wasser suggested - with the camera at an angle to move the reflection out of view.
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:27 PM   #19
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Just an additional tip, if you're shooting a single fish, spot meter.
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:30 PM   #20
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Does anyone know how to do center-weighted, or spot metering on the 300D, other than being in the full manual, M mode?
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:43 PM   #21
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On both my new Nikon Coolpix 4100 and former Canon A40, I got my best shots with the WB Flourescent setting. Actually, I seem to recall the A40 also have a Tungston setting that worked pretty well also. I take shots when I can turn off all house lights, leave on just the tank lights (still deciding if I like all tank light or only some tank lights), turn off flash, set WB as above, set the timer, set the camera on a tripod and snap off a few.

Major camera novice,
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:48 PM   #22
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Sam, if you have a decent size memory card, try shooting in RAW instead. That way, you won't have to worry about using any of the preset WB and can change it afterwards at your leisure. It's also always better to tweak with the RAW files before hand and then converting it over to jpeg.

Also, consider trying out the aperture priority mode. It'll give you a baseline as to where to start with your existing lighting and will at least show you what kind of shutter speed is possible. I've been shooting in this mode for awhile now, and also in manual when I put one of the older lenses on the camera (both older macro lenses).

As for what aperture to shoot at, it really depends on what kind of lighting you're dealing with here. If the tank is dimly lit, you're gonna have to shoot it wide open. This unfortunately leaves you with a very small DOF, which isn't necessarily a bad thing, especially for isolating a certain fish as the subject. Stopping down will increase the DOF, but unless you have adequate lighting, the pictures will turn out very dark or even pitch black. One way to get around this is to use an off camera flash. Brings in a whole new world of possibilities, allowing you to freeze motion and also change the lighting directions (if you only have the onboard flash, then definitely considering snapping the pictures at an angle). Don't even worry about using the flash if you're doing full tank shots.

It's also dependent on which lens you will be using. Most lenses out there are at their sharpest when stopped down one to two stops.

BTW, don't worry about using the macro settings on either the D100 or the 300D. You'll get better results out of either the manual, aperture priority, or shutter priority modes.

If you're trying to freeze fish motion, it really depends on how fast the fish is moving. Most pictures of these guys will come out blurry unless you're shooting at higher shutter speeds; along the lines of 1/125 secs. or faster.

Flash. If you're considering using one of these, then invest in a diffuser of some sort. The SB-800s that I own have an omnibounce on their heads which diffuses the light down a bit (still not as well as softboxes, but does the trick).

The Tamron 90mm lens is tack sharp. Given a fair amount of lighting or using an off camera flash you can get some great images even when it's stopped down. I've been able to get pictures at f16 with the flash on half power.
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GulfCoastAquarian
Does anyone know how to do center-weighted, or spot metering on the 300D, other than being in the full manual, M mode?
The Canons don't do spot, just center wegihted average and the camera decides what you want. That's why I'm waiting for something else, I have a feeling that Canon will add that feature in it's next incarnation.

I really can't believe they didn't have it in the current version, my local shop said it was basically going to be a film rebel with a CCD, I was rather disappointed really.

Something comes to mind though, if you have a 300D, and live in the US, please tell me you bought it from a good dealer like B&H, the 300D is a grey market in the US, the warranty is only as good as the place you bought it from, the Canon USA warranty is void.
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Old 03-08-2005, 10:03 PM   #24
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IBN, I'm pretty sure the Rebel synchs at 125, and if you're using the onboard flash, buy a rubber collapsible hood, you can use it to seal out ambient light and reflections from the flash by putting it up against the glass and it gives you a fair range of motion. Beaware thoguh that if the subject is to close, you'll get a shadow from the lens/hood, it's better to use an accesory flash anyway. I have a couple cheapo slaves, I diffuse them with tissue paper.

A softbox would be nice, I use to have a JTL digital studio setup, but I sold it for another toy. But I was quite happy with it, the guy I sold it to has a nice digital studio setup for catalog work.
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Old 03-08-2005, 10:05 PM   #25
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I have a suggestion. Shoot in ISO 800, this way, you won't have to worry about the noise. The camera D100 is basically noise free upto 800. Trust me on this. And yes, the problem with shooting with a film is that you have to wait for the results to come, and with digital, you dont have to wait.
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Old 03-08-2005, 10:07 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glass-gardens.com
The Canons don't do spot, just center wegihted average and the camera decides what you want. That's why I'm waiting for something else, I have a feeling that Canon will add that feature in it's next incarnation.

I really can't believe they didn't have it in the current version, my local shop said it was basically going to be a film rebel with a CCD, I was rather disappointed really.

Something comes to mind though, if you have a 300D, and live in the US, please tell me you bought it from a good dealer like B&H, the 300D is a grey market in the US, the warranty is only as good as the place you bought it from, the Canon USA warranty is void.
Don't have the 300D, so can't help you in regards to spot focusing. Also, most of the 300D are under US warranty, especially if you bought it from a reputable vendor, such as B&H, Adorama, etc.

Canon does have a second iteration of the 300D. It's called the D Rebel XT. An 8 megapixel addition to their lineup with a nice set of features, putting it on par with the Nikon D70 and in some areas even above it. It's still not the same as the film version, especially with the shutter speeds, but it's a big step toward it (for something closer, you would have to take a look at some of the higher end offerings). What this has done, however, is cannibalize the 300D market. I've seen the prices of 300D's drop like rocks, especially in the used market. People are letting go of their 300Ds, some of them with less than 500 actuations, for around the $500-550 mark.
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Old 03-08-2005, 10:09 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glass-gardens.com
IBN, I'm pretty sure the Rebel synchs at 125, and if you're using the onboard flash, buy a rubber collapsible hood, you can use it to seal out ambient light and reflections from the flash by putting it up against the glass and it gives you a fair range of motion. Beaware thoguh that if the subject is to close, you'll get a shadow from the lens/hood, it's better to use an accesory flash anyway. I have a couple cheapo slaves, I diffuse them with tissue paper.

A softbox would be nice, I use to have a JTL digital studio setup, but I sold it for another toy. But I was quite happy with it, the guy I sold it to has a nice digital studio setup for catalog work.
The rubber lens hood is a great idea. Only problem I can see is the minimum focusing distance of the lens that's being used. The Rebel sync of 1/125 I'm guessing is referring to the onboard flash and not the shutter?
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Old 03-08-2005, 10:22 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibn
The rubber lens hood is a great idea. Only problem I can see is the minimum focusing distance of the lens that's being used. The Rebel sync of 1/125 I'm guessing is referring to the onboard flash and not the shutter?
Yes to the onboard, but not sure, it could slower, I'm thinking that was a point of discussion at my local store though.

B&H and other good dealers sell grey market and cover the warranty themelves or use a third party warranty, but as far as I know, you could not take it to a US Canon service center under factory warranty, that's why you pay less for grey market, but not that much really.

Actually, with what was posted about the D100 and noise, I have to to rethink, most of the wildlife stuff I do is early morning or evening, I currently use ISO 400 slide film, but if I could get a digital body that would even let me shoot at the 400 setting without noise issues it wouldbe a big plus for me.
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Old 03-08-2005, 10:47 PM   #29
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B&H and other places do sell grey market equipment, but it's clearly marked on their website and they do a pretty good job of going into details in regards to the differences in the warranty. Also, with the rebates nowadays, it's really kind of pointless to go with grey market, especially for Nikon users.

Might want to take a look at some of the digital bodies if you're interested. Not sure about the D100, but the D70 has basically no problems with noise level up to ISO 800 (same as if you were shooting at 400). Also, more of the low light issue is corrected by using faster lenses (this is where the cost of digital photography is IME). I've been shooting wildlife even on overcast days with ISO lower than 400; shoot at 200. If you're shooting on brighter days, even some of the consumer grade lenses are adequate.
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Old 03-08-2005, 10:57 PM   #30
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EF 300mm 2.8 L, is there a faster one I can afford?

I also have a 100-400 USM IS but obviously it's not as fast, but handy.
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