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Old 12-07-2013, 05:44 PM   #16
Raymond S.
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A tall tank or a short tank is only "in the eye of the beholder" as far as usefulness etc.IMO. It can present issues in getting it
filled/w plants at the upper levels thereof. I entered 24" in plant size on here to get these but if you want to you can set any height
that you want by clicking on "Find your plant" at the right and then put whatever you want into it. Not a problem.
Once again IMO...those heavily planted tanks...need to be. When you consider that the EI fert chart is to get mega ferts into
the water column, and then balance it out by flushing the system every week in order to get plant growth at it's maxx.
Then you'd better have a "heavily planted tank". I'll give you a link to a balanced tank which gives equal priority to both the
hardscape(log/rocks) as it does to plants and you can see how good it looks.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pG...er=None&page=4
Actually can't find the one I really wanted but this is a good example of balanced. Jungle Vals would work for your tank as they get tall.
But they will take over if left to do as they please. Also a creative search for a piece of "tree" that is tall and perhaps bent so that it
could go up one side and then turn to go across the tank, say maybe 6" under the top, would make a great place to put a Java Fern.
Maybe some Fissidens F. on the vertical part also. See in just a couple of seconds I suggested a "take up the empty space" type
of concept which fits your tall tank. BTW a Wisteria gets fairly large...check it on that link.
http://www.aqua-fish.net/index.php?c...=not&speed=not
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Old 12-07-2013, 06:15 PM   #17
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cool. I love fiss!
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:58 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikestropicalfish View Post
cool. I love fiss!
Should mention that there is no such official title as "a balanced tank" but rather just a concept of mine.
But long as I'm on the subject...
Lookie what I found at 5:45 A.M. today...
See: Riversun - The Forests page 6 for a cool tank you won't believe...

P.S. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=201532

Last edited by Raymond S.; 12-08-2013 at 11:26 AM.. Reason: P.S.
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Old 12-08-2013, 02:13 PM   #19
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Quote:
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dude, you don't know everything. calm down. people use it all the time for quick fixes. when I serviced ATM's tanks in LA(tanked) we used it all the time. I don't really want to discuss chemipur anymore. the tank is fixed now, thx for your input. but lets say the issue comes back, and let me make this clear...I am a 30 vet of the tropical fish industry so I don't need lessons on the basics, in fact I only posted this thinking it would be fun to talk basics because sometimes its fun to go back to the drawing board, there is always something one can learn, and ive actually never done a planted tank in all this time lol! mostly an sps guy. im sure it will return because I know damn well there is a crapload of detritus in my gravel, which when I turned up the photoperiod fed this algae bloom. Although I have killed the algae with a blackout, and removed dead cells with a water change...I know the gravel still has excess nutrients....would you really think simply doing water changes weekly is going to keep this issue gone?? im not going to do daily changes forever, trying to run a shop here...don't you suppose I need to maybe gravel vac and replant and then not overload with fish/nutrients this time?? Lets hear some input minus the condescension!
I'm pretty sure i've been calm, and civil. Believe me i never got worked up on any of this. However water volume algae is such a beginner problem, and it seemed/seems you dont want to hear anything other then your right it's the lights fault, but water volume algae dosn't work like that.

It takes neglect of the tank which in your case excess nutrients due to not having a good water change schedule, not vacuuming, what Raymond said, and not being ontop of things which as a shop owner should know better, be doing better especially after this whole "30 years" stuff, and believe me i know shop owners who've run shops much longer then you, and are still idiots, and i've done pretty much everything in the hobby, except i havn't had a water volume algae problem since the 90's.

Yes a weekly maintenance schedule wouldn't of allowed it to happen i dont care how strong the light is. It takes time for buildup to get to that point. This stuff is so basic, so instead of wanting to be so stubborn, why not just take in consideration of what me or others are saying cause obviously your doing something wrong, and the 30 years vet speech dosn't mean anything to me.

If your too busy running the shop to be on top of the weekly maintenance then get some help. Just trying to help. If i wanted to be a dick it wouldn't be hard in this case :-) Actually tried not to be because you are a business owner, and i know image is everything.
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:58 PM   #20
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like I said in the first sentence of this thread, im new to planted tanks and like I said, I had too many fish/nutrients and too much light. I don't disagree with you....there is always something one can learn in this hobby and i'm not afraid to admit that. that's the fun part about it to me. I had a regular maintenance schedule on this tank here, and my shop is known to be immaculate...I just am new to plant tanks buddy,,,,jeeesh. I chose to just start it over and follow the both of you guys tips, i'll update this thread as time goes on. do you guys think I should run both lights or would one be sufficient? right now im easing back into it with one on 7 hours.
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:06 PM   #21
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btw Raymond, that link was awesome, thx for the help! ok, so im going to just do what you guys suggest and run both lights, hopefully my babys tears take off. I'm not running co2 btw.

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Old 12-10-2013, 03:44 AM   #22
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I've only been in the planted tank hobby for 13 months now myself, i dont think having a little anubias in some cichlid tanks counts so i wont count those years, and 21 years cichlids. We're both beginners in this realm, but it's easy to do :-)

I find staying low tech is much easier, and still get the results of some of the guys on here that do high tech, and over complicate it.
As far as lights go is that a red melon sword on the left side? Mine did well in both low light, and med/high light. I found a lot of what some told me when i first asked about light ended up being wrong or overly cautious on what would do well or not without high light, and co2.

The best method for me personally was just observe how the plants did in the light, and just adjust as needed. I think plants all have a general range of how well they do in different levels of lights, but also directly affected by the particular tank they were in changed how well they did to. However the rule around here seems to state if your into the high light PAR range, your going to need co2. Without a PAR meter your going to have to be the judge of that, not sure if anyone has posted a PAR review of that light on here yet, but they may have. On the other hand i saw a tank at a local place weeks ago using a mr aqua LED over a mr aqua 12g long, and grew baby tears great without using any co2

So i guess i'd go with whatever light you like most, and take it from there, and just observe the plants see how well they do in it. Plants love water changes too, so for me i just treated the tanks as i would for my fish tanks, and did 25-50% a week water changes.
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Old 12-10-2013, 03:48 PM   #23
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As you say, I definitely need to do weekly changes, im used to saltwater which that would be too much. I also am going to do a staggered light thing with one on from noon till 7 pm and the second light coming on for a few hours in the middle. I realized today that this tank gets blasted with ambient light in the am thru the front windows so that will have to be considered as well.
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Old 12-14-2013, 03:51 PM   #24
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so all all re-set up and my plants are "pearling" for the first time!!(yes I know this is rookie stuff) this is good right??
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Old 12-15-2013, 10:36 PM   #25
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algae bloom came back immediately
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:49 PM   #26
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If you have a bucket you can put a heater in so it won't cool off in a couple of hrs, put the fish in there and turn off the heater in the
tank. Then change all the water in the tank or at least 80% of it. Put back some fresh water and turn the heater back on. When the water is back where the fish are used to that temp you can put them back. You have mostly rooted/slow growing/low light plants.
They aren't going to use up nutrients near as fast from the water. You need to only use one light as it's not really overkill to have it
like you do with the second on partial time but not with nothing using up the nutrients in there.
I would buy me a large handfull of floating Hortworth and just tie it with a piece of string around the filter intake. Let it grow as it
pleases but just trim it to keep it from taking over. This will(eventually) hide the intake but will take up those nutrients for you.
Once it gets growing well you can put the other light back on it's partial cycle. A simple solution if you don't want to wait till some
stemmed plants get a good growth on them. You'd need to put at least a few, like two bunches of Rotalla for example(spread out
and having each stem planted separately) to equal that floating Hortworth for absorbing nutrients. Litterally tie the Hortworth
around the intake(not tightly) and it will mostly grow upwards till it goes along the top if you let it. Trimming a bit each week
will keep it good looking. Only a suggestion...
ANY direct sunlight will make it very hard to be rid of this type algae until something is done to use up some of the nutrients.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pi...ictureid=46569
My daphnia culture tank 2.5g with 2-3 hrs of direct sunlight per day.
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:35 PM   #27
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yeah this is is my shop where I have 77 degree rowater ready to go in 400 gallon tanks with pumps to I can top off all the holding tanks in the showroom. I took the fish out and all the plants, did 100% water change put back and withing two days full on algae bloom again,,,def not a cycle bloom, this water is green when I syphon it out. I agree I ned something else to uptake nutrients, like wistiria or something stemmed. I did remove one light again and I feel that only one will ever be necessary, those fluval LEDs are VERY strong. I'm just a little unsure...I don't se how there are any nutrients to feed this bloom, I have a couple fish and very clean gravel. maybe I don't have a bacterial bloom, yet still don't have enough bacteria.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:17 PM   #28
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Didn't say, but any direct sunlight ? Water sprite may be a better choice. Wisteria hard to keep from getting holes
from deficiencies in nutrients. Massive up-take of Potassium. If it were the cause of your algae that would be great
though. But more likely you would only end up with a plant that looks like the one in my gallery.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pG...&order=&page=0
Interesting that you took out the plants also. I'll have to remember that light if I ever go LED.
Is this pure R/O water that use ? But you did say top off the tanks.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:17 PM   #29
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yes using pure RO. to try to eliminate any uneeded nutrients for now. I took the plants out so I could thoroughly clean the gravel, and I wanted to rescape anyway. I do have ambient sunlight but none direct....this tank was fine for months until I bumbed up to two lights...then I had this bloom and now I cant shake it off. im just going to kep waterchanging until my plants get established enough to outcompete the algae, and im gonna do as you sugest wuth the floating hortwort on the pipe.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:19 PM   #30
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im still not convinced that having so much open water is not making a huge gren algae farm. think about it, that ruben sword is massive, 27 inch tall! you can se I have lots of light hiting open water here...
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