HELP ME convert this to shrimp (10g plants only) - Page 3
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Old 10-14-2013, 04:27 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcoscia View Post

So it's a 10 gallon typical tank
I want to upgrade my lighting, thinking marine land double bright LEDs
probably means i will need the clear cover, or will the shrimp really jump ship?
Filtration I want a dual sponge filter OR?! maybe I can connect this 10 and my other 10 to a canister?
I have a good heater in there already
I want hardy shrimp only: suggestions?
Awesome, congrats on switching to shrimp! What you'll need is to ditch the heater depending on where you live as shrimp are a cold water species. A canister annnnnd a dual sponge (for biofilm) would be good for this tank and if you're just starting then go cherry shrimp. Hope this helps,



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Old 10-14-2013, 06:14 PM   #32
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With what? You didn't asked anything

First step I would do is to get rid of all the rocks. Get water tests for pH/gH/kH/NO3 at least.

Get driftwood and moss. Put a black background. Get black eggcrate or some other type of black grate and tie moss on it. Cover the back with it.

Get all the plants out and leave just small ones in. Oversize filtration with at least two double sponge filters on the sides. Maybe add another HOB as well if not enough surface movement exists.

Make sure the tank is cycled, check tap water params. If they're good continue to use dechlorinated tap. If not, look for RO water sources to mix with the tap.

Leave the tank running for a month, to get the bacteria and algae growing. Keeping only the front glass clean.
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Old 10-14-2013, 08:29 PM   #33
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For filters I will be doing a HOB and a dual sponge.
No heater? Really?

I really don't like the rocks so i don't mind not using them, but why?
Black background, doable.
Moss I have, as well as algae and bacteria in the HOB since it's currently running and has been, but I will test the bacteria with some ammonia to be sure before adding shrimp.

Why only small plants?
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Old 10-14-2013, 08:58 PM   #34
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Because large plants make shrimps hard to see. And they create some other problems when you try to prune them. They also need fertilization, more than small plants. The less substances you put in the aquarium, the better for the little guys.

I was saying to leave the tank alone for a month or so not for the ammonia but for bacteria in general to grow. In that time you might put something in for the bacteria to feed on. Fish food, for example. Shrimp love to graze bacteria off the surfaces and from moss. It's what they're programmed to do. That's why you can leave them for long periods of time without feeding.

The oversized filtration will take care of ammonia spikes, no need to test for that if you add the filters now and leave the tank alone for a month just making sure the water is topped off and fish food is put in it. Before adding shrimp do a large 50% water change and you're set.

Most rocks are bad because they tend to mess with the water's chemistry. Even if they're "safe". It's better to have none and use plastic or some other inert material to build your scape.
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:56 PM   #35
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cool thanks
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Old 10-14-2013, 11:05 PM   #36
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Red cherries, as I've read in my research, need stability. They can grow and breed in a variety of params (nothing extreme) as long as there is stability and no toxins like ammonia and nitrite. tolerable amounts of nitrate are okay (I would aim <20 ppm? there was no real answer, except <40) Gh of 4 or higher is good for normal molting.

how accurate?
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Old 10-14-2013, 11:25 PM   #37
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There is no definitive answer. They will tell you when something is off. You just need to listen

gH 4 for neos is on the low side of what most people observed. You might try to aim at a gH between 6 and 10. I recently started to measure gH, since I didn't had any molting issues only to find it's way above 15! And that's because I'm a poor herder. I don't have the patience these creatures require and start changing things from one week to another.

Stability is what counts for all shrimp. RCS are more tolerable to quick changes than others. The basic rule of thumb is to change when there's a need for that. It applies to water changes, feeding, fertilizing and what not. If you keep moss, anubias and ferns you won't need to change much and often. I haven't pruned Anubias in my tank since I started it, more than a year ago. Same goes for the java fern. They don't require ferts. Feeding the shrimp is enough for these plants as well.

Nitrates don't affect much RCS, you can keep them in water that has a lot, 40 being the low limit in some cases of heavily planted tanks I've seen with RCS breeding in them. However, don't expect every shrimp, even RCS to tolerate high Nitrates. It's in their genes if they can cope or not. You can get shrimp bred in low nitrates and kill them in your tank. The same that hosts your shrimps without problems. Low nitrates do no harm to inverts. Just keep that in mind.

Also, you might want to develop the habit of keeping them low because you never know when a CRS opportunity shows up and they will drop dead in nitrate levels at which RCS are breeding.

Also develop the habit of drip acclimating things. Drip the water changes as well. Drip everything but the water from your tank

You don't need to measure things all the time. Get the params once then stick to a routine and you don't need to know them from that point on. Unless something else changes your carefully balanced game card castle
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Old 10-15-2013, 01:11 AM   #38
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I usually do weekly water changes on my tanks that are mainly fish and plants, with a few amanos doing their thing. So you're saying don't do this with the cherries?
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Old 10-15-2013, 03:55 PM   #39
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Do it if it's needed. Do a water change if Nitrates get too high. Not necessarily because it's the end of the week. Mostly that's why shrimps need a water change.

They are more sensible to high pH shifts and they are dead sensible to TDS shifts. If the water used to change the one in the tank is very different look into ways of customizing it. RO water it's used because you take out nitrate laden water from the tank and, ideally, you should put the same water, minus nitrates, back. Meaning the replacement water should have the params as close to the one in the tank as possible.
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:40 PM   #40
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plant plans:
a ton of java moss
lots of regular java fern
a needle leaf java fern
crypts (wendtii bronze I think is what I've got)
micro sword
anubias maybe

hardscape:
2 cholla woods
looking for branch driftwood (PM me?)
small glass candle plate for the feeding plate

i will continue osmocote + in the substrate
may dose water column micros (if copper free and safe)
will continue excel

substrate is eco complete capped with sand
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:14 PM   #41
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If you don't go over board, even the ones containing copper can be used. Smaller doses do not harm them, one huge spike does. Most of the micro fertilizers contain this element. If it's not labeled as invert safe or for shrimp use, assume it does have copper too.
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Old 10-20-2013, 08:04 PM   #42
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okay! small doses no problem.

so I did a lot of rearranging and prepping today
i decided to keep the rocks and I bought cholla wood. One has sunken, 2 more are getting there.
Plants are duckweed, crypts, java moss, java fern, needle leaf java fern and micro sword

will be adding: 1 pre filter sponge, dual sponge filter, feeding plate

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Old 10-21-2013, 08:07 PM   #43
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cholla wood is down and added a prefilter sponge!
the top cholla wood has two plant weights attached to the end since it just wouldnt sink for me


the double sponge filter will be going on the right wall
i also switched filters. I took out my smaller one and put on my aqueon
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:28 PM   #44
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just added black background!


working on my wall algae for the shrimps. here you can really see it
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:53 PM   #45
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purchased the dual sponge filter!
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