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Old 08-05-2013, 11:19 AM   #1
MarkM
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My Fish Have Ick


Well, I have had my aquarium for about ten years and this is the first time I have had a recognizable fish issue. I looked up fish problems on google and I am pretty sure my fish have Ick. I read and there are several medications and restrictions.

I have plants so anything with copper can not be used.

I have clown loaches so there is another chemical that is bad for fish without scales.

I also have a few cardnials, corys, and ottos.

What is the recommended treatment.

I also read that Ick is light sensitive. I have a low tech planted tank, and the light level is mid low range according to my par meter. I do water changes based on water params, usually 2-4 weeks 40%.

thanks,
Mark
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:41 PM   #2
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Do you have a qt tank?
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:59 PM   #3
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No no quarantine tank,
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:48 PM   #4
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I've used Ich-x by Health Aid on black neons in a heavily planted tank. Worked in like 3 days and the plants seemed to benefit as well.....There were also blue pearl shrimp and micro crabs in the tank....they made it through ok

Now, try to figure out how you got ich in your tank.
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:55 PM   #5
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Turn up the heat. It's the only chemical free way. Get a qt tank!

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Old 08-05-2013, 02:58 PM   #6
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I slowly raised the temp 1 degree an hour up to 86 for 2 weeks along with I belive the brand is kardon all natural ich attack. The temp alone will stop them from reproducing in your substrate and then kill them. Leave temp raised for 2 weeks. Or the ich can survive and go through another reproductive phase. Just fought ich last month after never having problems before. Since my "fishgeddon" I have done continual weekly 25% - 50% water changes... Good luck.
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Old 08-05-2013, 04:16 PM   #7
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I have the same issue. My tank has been established for 2-3 months, and after a lot of tweaking (lighting, plants, livestock), I thought I was getting close to being satisfied with my tank. Unfortunately, I decided that I wanted to add a blue male guppy, which I got from my LFS. I didn't notice that it was infected with ich and bought a GBR and some neons a couple of days later. A day or two after that, I finally noticed the ich spots on the guppy and moved him into a 2 gallon tank. I was hoping I pulled him out before he could infect my 20 gallon tank. Unfortunately, I noticed ich spots on some of my fish this past weekend. All of my fish have them including adult guppies and their fry, the neons and the GBR. I'm so bummed. I'm hoping I don't have too many losses. I'm going to be putting in a heater today and will start medicating with Ich Attack when it comes in from Amazon tomorrow.
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Old 08-05-2013, 05:18 PM   #8
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I have a question. At what temperature will plants start to be affected? The current temp in my tank is around 75-78 degrees without a heater. My new heater came in from Amazon, and I've decided to just go ahead and buy a bottle of Ich Attack from Petco so that I can begin treatment tonight rather than waiting for the bottle I ordered from Amazon to arrive tomorrow. I just want to know how high I can raise my temps with the following flora and fauna:

Flora: anacharis, rotala rotundifolia, DHG, jungle val, giant val, water wisteria, Hygrophila corymbosa, java fern, subwassertang

Fauna: neon tetras (prefer cooler water), peppered corys (prefer cooler water), guppies (adults and multiple fry), GBR, ghost shrimp, MTS, ramshorn snails

I want to get the temps up in the mid-80s if possible. Ultimately, I think I want to put a priority on saving the GBR, guppies and plants. I don't want to lose my neons, but I only paid $1 each for them. I also don't want to lose my corys (2 of them), but if they go, I wouldn't mind replacing them with a school of smaller corys that prefer warmer temperatures. Once I'm done with my ich treatment, I plan on leaving the temp at around 80-82 degrees.
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Old 08-05-2013, 05:30 PM   #9
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Please remember to increase your airation.
The plants on your list should be ok at 86℉.

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Old 08-05-2013, 05:31 PM   #10
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I plan to go to the LFS after work today and buy a bottle of the Kardon meds. I am running the tank currently without a heater as the normal ambient stays above 75 day and night this time of year. I will add a heater this evening and slowly raise the temp to the low 80s.

I have read about low O2 as a potential cause. I took my bubbler out when my plants began growing and I will put that back in this evening. I have also read about higher light levels helping Ick so I will cut back on my lighting this evening also.

I have a hand me down UV lamp that I have never tried. I got it out this morning and the pump does not work. I will see if I can find a pump this evening at the LFS.
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Old 08-05-2013, 05:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVT View Post
Please remember to increase your airation.
The plants on your list should be ok at 86℉.

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I think there's plenty of surface agitation in my tank. I actually run a Penguin filter rated for a 50 gallon tank in my 20 gallon high. The flow is blunted with a piece of a plastic bottle, but the water still churns quite a bit where the water hits the plastic barrier. The flow is redirected towards the back of the tank. I'll keep an eye on my fish as I raise the temp, and if I notice any gasping, I'll just temporarily remove the plastic barrier and/or add an air stone.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:59 AM   #12
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Went to the LFS last night. I purchased Tetra Ick Guard. When I got home I added my bubbler, installed my heater, installed my UV light, reduced my tank lighting, and did a 40% water change. I added the Ick Guard as the instructions say.

This morning my tank temp is up to 82 degrees. My three clown loaches are worse than yesterday, more white dots. I could not see any white dots on cardinals, ottos, or corys, yesterday most had none but some had one or two dots. I turned up the temp another two degrees.

I will review this evening after work and plan a second 40% water change and dose of the Ick Guard.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:57 AM   #13
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I've use kordons rid ich plus. Bottle says its safe for scaleless fish and since I've been using it, I've never had a fish loss from ich. At the first sign if ich, I treat the whole tank and in a 2-3 days, the spots fall off fish and never shows up on any other fish.
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:37 PM   #14
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Default Question MiSo

I went intending to purchase Kordons but the sales lady said she had used it and it stained the silicon at each seam of her tank green. I did not want that so I tried the tetra stuff.
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:59 PM   #15
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I've successfully defeated ich using the heat method in several tanks.
Ramp the temp up to at least 86 , every 2-3 days water change and gravel vac (as much as is possible around plants).
Keep this up for 14 days minimum, but no less than 7 days after last cyst is seen on fish.
As extra killing power use Kordon ich attack in conjunction. Ich attack is the organic one, won't stain but smells nasty and will turn your water brown while being treated.
Watch fish for signs of stress with the heat and add an air stone if they start gasping.
Do not use any meds with the heat method since this may drop the O2 level even lower.

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