Phosphates in Tap off the chart!
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Old 01-03-2004, 01:03 PM   #1
plantastic28
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Hi,

The phosphates in my Tap water are off the chart. They are at 3.0 in the tank. Plant growth is pretty good. The tank is not fully stocked hence the reason the phosphate may be so high. The only thing worrying me is the start of some hair/Black brush algae, getting progressively worse. I have 5 ottos, but they really arent touching the stuff. Its a 29 gallon so I probably need some more. I am going to try and score 5-10 Japonica shrimp in the future.

Was thinking of mixing my tap with RO/DI Water. Was wondering if anyone else does this and what is the ratio of RO/DI water to tap water they use for their tanks?

Thanks in advance!
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29 Gallon Standard Moderate Light Planted tank
Lighting: 2x27 Watt 6500k P.C. Lights of America Outdoor Fixtures. 2x 20 Watt N.O. Flor. w/ Sylvania Gro Bulbs (9350k I think). Both are retrofited into a diy 12" tall canopy, with a 4" Diameter Clip on fan facing the opening in the back to circulate the excessive heat from the lighting.
Filtration: Tetra Tech 150 (modified to make very little disturbance.
Aquarium Systems Mini-jet for more circulation.
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Old 01-03-2004, 02:04 PM   #2
anonapersona
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Shrimp and ottos will not touch that, IME. I had the sort of black hairy algae that looks like leg hair, black, long and sort of curly.

The pair of rosy barbs I added took care of it in a matter of hours. Caution, the rosy barbs did eventually develop a taste for plants, not the hygro that grew so fast but the tender new leaves of the java fern and anubias coffeefolia -- go figure!

It might be interesting to cut that water with 50% distilled water and test again to see if you can determine the actual phosphate level, or just call the water department.
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Old 01-03-2004, 02:07 PM   #3
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I think a lot of people cut there tap water with RO/DI. For you however you need to find the GH and KH of your tap water first. As you cut your tap water you will also be cutting your hardness in the same proportion. So test to see what that is and then also look at some phosphate reducing products.

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Old 01-03-2004, 05:09 PM   #4
plantastic28
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Well I got a crappy Tetra test kit that goes from 7.5 to 8.0. Anyway the color resolves to somewhere inbetween these two, I am guessing 7.8. But I could be wrong. I need to get a better one soon. Anyway the KH is 5ppm. Thanks for the suggestions.
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29 Gallon Standard Moderate Light Planted tank
Lighting: 2x27 Watt 6500k P.C. Lights of America Outdoor Fixtures. 2x 20 Watt N.O. Flor. w/ Sylvania Gro Bulbs (9350k I think). Both are retrofited into a diy 12" tall canopy, with a 4" Diameter Clip on fan facing the opening in the back to circulate the excessive heat from the lighting.
Filtration: Tetra Tech 150 (modified to make very little disturbance.
Aquarium Systems Mini-jet for more circulation.
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Old 01-03-2004, 05:24 PM   #5
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KHi s 5 ppm, or 5 degrees?

5 ppm is terribly low, 5 degrees is fine. If it is 5 ppm, be super careful about pH crashes, especially if you are adding CO2. You really ought to bring that up to about 3 degrees; 3 x 17.9 = 330ppm.
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Old 01-03-2004, 09:22 PM   #6
ken6217
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>>>Also, RO water do not remove Phosphate >>>

RO does remove phosphates as well as nitrates.
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Old 01-03-2004, 10:22 PM   #7
plantastic28
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anonapersona,

Its 5 degrees my error. :roll:

Otherwise,

I was talking about using RO/DI which does remove phosphate, I know because I have owned one in the past when I did Reef tanks.

I am currently trying to raise my co2 with 2 diy yeast co2 bottles on my tank, however I just learned that my problem may be with the way I am disolving it. See I use the inlet for my hob filter which apparantly is not very efficient at breaking up the co2 bubbles. So I recently purchased one of those hagen nutrafin reactors and have mixed up a new batch for it, so I am waiting to see what that does. Thanks for the great advice.

So you think manual removal is my best option? Man that is going to be a pain, Ive got 4 stems of Limnophila aromatica I believe, which have it from almost the top down. I really hate to loose this plant, it has been growing fairly well (not as red as it could be, but not as green as people say it will get with out the proper amount of k and light.) anyway all of them from the top down are getting covered now in what looks very much like hair/black brush algae!!
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29 Gallon Standard Moderate Light Planted tank
Lighting: 2x27 Watt 6500k P.C. Lights of America Outdoor Fixtures. 2x 20 Watt N.O. Flor. w/ Sylvania Gro Bulbs (9350k I think). Both are retrofited into a diy 12" tall canopy, with a 4" Diameter Clip on fan facing the opening in the back to circulate the excessive heat from the lighting.
Filtration: Tetra Tech 150 (modified to make very little disturbance.
Aquarium Systems Mini-jet for more circulation.
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Old 01-04-2004, 12:42 AM   #8
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Wel, positive ID is essential. otherwise is right on all counts, the Co2 is probably the key, getting the plants going enough to use up the phosphates.

I have gotten hair algae after using pH down which is sodium biphosphate and phosphates were off the chart for three days. I use a rice grain of that now for phosphates addition, that first time I used a teaspoon. oops. But if the plants are going, that gets used up quickly.

The BBA also is cured by CO2, though a tiny squirt of H2O2 can accelerate the process. I've used an eyedropper to add about a ml directly onto the algae and it dissolved before my eyes, then the shrimp moved in to knock it out. I worked on just a few spots, 3 or 4 ml total over 3 or 4 days, never got rid of it all, but it is still receeding.

The nutrafin diffuser is OK for the moneyand fine for small tanks, I use a Plant guild reactor in one tank, a DIY version of it in another. The 29 gallons is right on the border of whether to go pressurized or not and probably too big for the nutrafin diffuser.

It really depends on the light level. I'm Ok with DIY and a low 1.9wpg, though I still have a bit of BBA in there it is sort of attractive on the wood.
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Old 01-04-2004, 07:39 AM   #9
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Thanks for your replys!

Yeah I am waiting to get a Pressurized co2 setup, just cant get the $200 bones just yet. Well I just got the hagen diffuser from a friend, well see how well it does, came heartily recommended over the inlet on my hob filter. I do have two bottles going on this 29 gallon, so hopefully I might be able to get the co2 up to 15ppm.
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29 Gallon Standard Moderate Light Planted tank
Lighting: 2x27 Watt 6500k P.C. Lights of America Outdoor Fixtures. 2x 20 Watt N.O. Flor. w/ Sylvania Gro Bulbs (9350k I think). Both are retrofited into a diy 12" tall canopy, with a 4" Diameter Clip on fan facing the opening in the back to circulate the excessive heat from the lighting.
Filtration: Tetra Tech 150 (modified to make very little disturbance.
Aquarium Systems Mini-jet for more circulation.
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Old 01-04-2004, 07:52 AM   #10
plantastic28
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Wish I could get a picture of it. Any of you try those one-time-use digital cameras? Do they work at all? I have a friend who might let me borrow his.
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29 Gallon Standard Moderate Light Planted tank
Lighting: 2x27 Watt 6500k P.C. Lights of America Outdoor Fixtures. 2x 20 Watt N.O. Flor. w/ Sylvania Gro Bulbs (9350k I think). Both are retrofited into a diy 12" tall canopy, with a 4" Diameter Clip on fan facing the opening in the back to circulate the excessive heat from the lighting.
Filtration: Tetra Tech 150 (modified to make very little disturbance.
Aquarium Systems Mini-jet for more circulation.
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Old 01-04-2004, 01:43 PM   #11
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When I had a HOB filter, I was never able to get the CO2 above 15 ppm regardless of the input. This makes it a safety of sorts, you can crank up the DIY and never worry about pH stability until the rate really declines a lot. So, the diffuser will probably be just fine for now.

What are you running for lighting? Balancing light and nutrients is critical.
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Old 01-04-2004, 06:38 PM   #12
plantastic28
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anonapersona,

I am running 2 x 27 watt (6500K) Lights of America outdoor fixtures, with their covers removed along with 2 x 20 watt (9350K) NO Flors. The canopy they are in is 12" tall. Unfortunately this was built by me mum who insists it stays like this.
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29 Gallon Standard Moderate Light Planted tank
Lighting: 2x27 Watt 6500k P.C. Lights of America Outdoor Fixtures. 2x 20 Watt N.O. Flor. w/ Sylvania Gro Bulbs (9350k I think). Both are retrofited into a diy 12" tall canopy, with a 4" Diameter Clip on fan facing the opening in the back to circulate the excessive heat from the lighting.
Filtration: Tetra Tech 150 (modified to make very little disturbance.
Aquarium Systems Mini-jet for more circulation.
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Old 01-04-2004, 09:13 PM   #13
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Oh yeah, you need CO2.... 2x27+2x20/29=3.2wpg, maybe less effective depending on reflectors.

You really need to get the fertilizers in order too.

Do what you can to minimze the surface disturbance caused by the filter, raise the water level, whatever. Get the CO2 cooking and see what that produces for you.

Then look at fertilizers.
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Old 01-04-2004, 09:19 PM   #14
Nordic
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I have one... loveeeeee it.

It will take a day or so before bubbles travels properly, when it has that slimecoat.
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Old 01-04-2004, 09:44 PM   #15
plantastic28
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Nordic,

Well I attached it to the tank yesturday at around 2pm, so it has now been 24 hours, it seems to be producing bubbles very slowly at a rate of one per 30 seconds or so. I think I made the solution to akaline, I added the stabalizer which under my suspitions was just sodium bicarbonate, which I dont need because my tap water is hard enough. Anyway it seems to be collecting at the bottom now in globs. I see one made it half way up the ladder. Seems like the bubbles dont get any smaller though?? What is up with that? Well take it easy!
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29 Gallon Standard Moderate Light Planted tank
Lighting: 2x27 Watt 6500k P.C. Lights of America Outdoor Fixtures. 2x 20 Watt N.O. Flor. w/ Sylvania Gro Bulbs (9350k I think). Both are retrofited into a diy 12" tall canopy, with a 4" Diameter Clip on fan facing the opening in the back to circulate the excessive heat from the lighting.
Filtration: Tetra Tech 150 (modified to make very little disturbance.
Aquarium Systems Mini-jet for more circulation.
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