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Old 11-11-2007, 08:37 PM   #16
fishscale
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Could you guys edit this list so that all the treatments have information on whether or not it is safe for inverts? I know it's a lot to ask, but I'd really appreciate it.
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Old 12-04-2007, 01:14 PM   #17
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Could you guys edit this list so that all the treatments have information on whether or not it is safe for inverts? I know it's a lot to ask, but I'd really appreciate it.
The long list I have supplied above didn't give any clue if it was invert safe. I would treat your sick fish in a separate tank whether you have 1 fish and a few shrimp or 30 fish and 1 shrimp.

Here are a few reasons a hospital tank is a MUST. To keep new fish from potentially spreading a disease or spreading parasites to your current stock. To quarantine sick fish in your current stock to prevent it from spreading the disease or parasite to others in your tank.

But the main reasons are the expense of treating a large volume of water with medication and over treating other fish that are not sick. You can pick up an extra filter, heater and a cheap plastic (I prefer hazy to clear 10 to 20 gallon NOT Steralite but a heavy duty Rubbermaid tub with a lid). You can then use the lid to cover the tub when it is empty and keep dust and such out. Also note it's cheaper to replace if the medication you are using will stain the tank. Make sure it is a thicker more heavy duty tub and not a real thin one. Clear/hazy allows you to see more of what's going on. Please note: the hang on filter may need a little persuasion to sit level as most tubs have a curved side.

Sick fish should be treated and kept in the quarantine tank for at least 2 weeks after the last sign of infection just to make sure the infection is not just dormant.

You should also treat new fish for parasites and once that is done give them medicated food to treat any bacterial infections that they may have BEFORE ever placing them in your main tank. 3 or 4 weeks total should be enough time to make sure the new fish are safe to add in your tank.

Failure to pre treat new fish or separate sick fish WILL become a costly problem and could possibly kill all your current stock. You put your fish into this situation it is YOUR responsibility to protect them and keep them safe!

If your main tank is contaminated and must be treated then removing plants, inverts, and any other live creatures that are not to be treated should be done (the quarantine tank can house them until the large tank is safe again). Do remember that scaleless fish like catfish can be killed just like your shrimp by some medications. Check your warnings and remove any fish, invert, plant that it does not say it's safe to treat or if it is not listed at all on the bottle.

Plants can normally be cleaned by a solution of Potassium Parmagate (It depends on the plant) or a real weak mixture of bleach and water but remember to declorinate the plants (weak plants will die and so will some sensitive others). Ultimately plants are normally cheaper to replace than a fishy friend that you have had for years.

Please remember to quarantine your new Plants and Inverts too! This includes but not limited to shrimps, clams, and snails. From everything I have read after a week any disease that can affect fish can harbor on the shell of Inverts and plants but will die if they don't get a host within a few days. So a week or two should be safe.

Take it from somebody who has spent over $500.00 in medication in less than a year from thinking that won't happen to me I just have a few fish in a large tank. Best of luck.

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Old 05-06-2008, 03:43 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishscale View Post
Could you guys edit this list so that all the treatments have information on whether or not it is safe for inverts? I know it's a lot to ask, but I'd really appreciate it.
Fishscale, look on post #2 here.
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums...d.php?t=135493

I'll PM the member "msjinkzd" if she has obtained more meds to list in there. I'll have to edit it adding more if any.
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Old 03-17-2009, 02:16 AM   #19
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As beneficial as these treatment options are to the community, these lists are pretty long and as great as it is to know that there are medicines, it's not as useful if you don't recognize or if you misdiagnose a disease. Perhaps in v 2.0 of this thread OP post can be updated organized by types of disease ( ie, gram positive/negative bacterial, fungal, external parasites, internal parasites, etc.) with a brief desc of the disease. Would also be helpful to include the means of administering the meds in each case (ie dissolving tablet, liquid, gel, food pellet, topical application, etc).

On a second note, overmedicating can be just as bad or worse than not medicating at all in most cases. Don't jump the gun. You'll just end up between a nasty tug of war for your fish's life since, although he might be cured of say, ich or velvet, his weakness from disease and treatment will probably result in a secondary fungal infection. Some diseases can be cured with clean water and a bit of salt.

Undermedicating is also a serious problem among aquarists, if you begin a medication regimen, do your best to see it through to the end. If you chicken out, the nasties that survived the terminated treatment regimen will grow resistant to medication and then you'll have a real problem on your hands.

Someone previously posted about euthanasia techniques, however, like he said, none of the ones posted are humane except the use of clove oil (without vodka). It's cheap and available in the dental section of most pharmacies. Destruction of the brain via blunt force trauma to the skull or pithing is more violent, but it's also merciful end.
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Old 08-07-2009, 06:58 AM   #20
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this treatments are really good for fish diagonsis
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:01 PM   #21
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Default Fish near surface frequently

I have 1 Neon Rainbow that stays at the top of the tank most of the time. She is not eating. Tis a problem that started up after I put all fish in 2 10 gallon tanks and then back in 29 gallon Jan 15. Lost 2 in Jan same way. She has been like this for a week at least. Treated with PRIMAFIX and salt.

What could this be, and what treatment would help?

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Old 03-24-2010, 06:26 PM   #22
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Hilde, you might want to open a new topic about your sick fish, that way it'll be easier for people to see it.

For the med list: Melafix can be affected by your tank lights, so to make it last longer in the tank, put in half a dose twice a day instead of a full dose once a day.
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Old 03-24-2010, 11:55 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishly View Post
Hilde, you might want to open a new topic about your sick fish, that way it'll be easier for people to see it.

For the med list: Melafix can be affected by your tank lights, so to make it last longer in the tank, put in half a dose twice a day instead of a full dose once a day.
Well one Neon Rainbow died and one is recovering. I will lower the lights for only have a big Java fern in the quarantine tank.
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Old 01-14-2012, 03:16 PM   #24
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Unhappy black stains on scale

HI,
im a beginner here, just wondering how to remove black stains from my ice blue zebras scales. tough hes not showing any weakness but he looks dirty with those stains. its like a pen writting on his scales. hoping for a reply.

thanks,
mik-mik
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:30 PM   #25
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Default Fish Disease Diagnosis

Here's a link to an Online Fish Hospital with easy diagnosis of most fish maladies
Here's another fish disease symptom diagnosis tool
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:21 AM   #26
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I have a question about using dimilin. I have an infestation crisis of fish lice in my betta tank, most likely brought in by the introduction of new plants. The betta is the only fish and I have removed all the snails. I contacted a veterinary assistant who recommend dimilin. My question is how long after treatment and frequent water changes should I wait to reintroduce the snails? Will the plants contain trace amounts of this chemical forever? Has anyone had any adverse effects with using dimilin?

Thank you for all your help planted tank Community.

Also, FYI, water parameters are almost perfect, ammonia, nitrate and nitrite at zero. Ph is a little higher than I want it for my betta at seven, but I'm reluctant to use a chemical Ph fix. Working with IAL in that regard.
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