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Old 07-19-2013, 05:14 PM   #16
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Bronze/red can be a sign of good health high light, it can also be a sign of starvation/deficiency. The later is likely if there is not much growth over time, but leaves just gets redder. From your pics, its likely that its deficient. Does it look that way over a long time, or over the first week you introduce it into the tank? It may be a failure to acclimatize if its a new plant, especially if its from poor/weak sample stock.
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
Blyxa is a heavy rooter so dosing the water column will only do so much. All of the substrates you have mentioned don't have much nutrient content. You got to add some root ferts. Properly fed and high light it will want to take over the tank.
I dont have any root tabs yet my blyxa has exploded and has a tint of red to it. I EI dose. Root tabs are not necessary for anything if you are dosing the right amount.

In the 1st pic I just see alot of algae. Something is def. off.
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:46 PM   #18
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It'll be tomorrow or Sunday before I can get pics and uploaded. Basically looks similar to crypt melt. The bright vibrant green dissipates and turns brown, the leaves fall off then there's only one maybe two leaves per stem/pod, then the stem/pod begins to turn dark and melt. Once in a while a very tiny new leaf will show up for a while then never grows.

Maybe I have an inhabitant that likes to eat it and I just never seen them doing such ?
Yes, I'm quoting myself b/c I'm a retard....I meant to say I'm doing all of these things seemingly correct but cannot get Hydrocotyle tripartita to grow not blyxa. Everyone has said this stuff should grow into a full carpet very rapidly under my conditions but that's not the case. Maybe I have way too much light (I'm awaiting BuildmyLED.com PAR analysis).
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:12 PM   #19
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Default Blyxa Japonica Troubles

Your meant hydro? Sorry to say but I think you were right the first time, the blyxa in that pic isn't doing that well either.

Edit- oh, you aren't the OP. I got confused! Maybe you can ask that question in another thread so as not to derail this one with a veer?
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:41 PM   #20
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good call...
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:55 PM   #21
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Useful information! I am putting this to the test right now in a dirt tank. Also going to add root tabs near the other plants in the other substrates.
Thank you!

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Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
Blyxa is a heavy rooter so dosing the water column will only do so much. All of the substrates you have mentioned don't have much nutrient content. You got to add some root ferts. Properly fed and high light it will want to take over the tank.
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:33 PM   #22
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hmm, is blyxa suspose to be a high maintence plant? I totally had it in my cherry/pfr cull tank, with sand no root taps, no ferts, very low light, (completely blocked by water lettuce). They are a pretty green and looks happy. about 2 weeks ago, I moved all my cherries including all the plants to a new tank, same conditions without the floaters. still looks pretty.

they seems pretty easily to grow for me..
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:02 PM   #23
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OP and Blyxa:
What caught my eye was your 75-80 temp. Some plants don't take well to rapid temp fluctuations. Your symptoms parallel mine when I leave Blyxa floating for couple of days right under the lights sounds like a typical melt. Rotala also behave the same way.
Just an observation.

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Old 07-22-2013, 03:52 AM   #24
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I dont have any root tabs yet my blyxa has exploded and has a tint of red to it. I EI dose. Root tabs are not necessary for anything if you are dosing the right amount.

In the 1st pic I just see alot of algae. Something is def. off.
What kind of substrate are you using? Someone said it is a heavy root feeder so I'm curious now if they're right. Also, what temp are you keeping it at? I may have to test the tempt theory out as well.

My temps are high in most of my tanks and it hasn't done anything but die back and cling to life.
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:30 PM   #25
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From my understanding Blyxa japonica is a stem plant, but the stem is very small so it looks like it is a root feeder. Blyxa aubertii on the otherhand is a root feeder so it might be important to know which one you actually have. I have both, but only because some LFS was selling the aubertii as japonica and I didn't know any better.
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Old 07-23-2013, 03:02 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Tvadna View Post
What kind of substrate are you using? Someone said it is a heavy root feeder so I'm curious now if they're right. Also, what temp are you keeping it at? I may have to test the tempt theory out as well.

My temps are high in most of my tanks and it hasn't done anything but die back and cling to life.

To tell you the truth, my 10" blyxa cluster is floating. I shifted gravel here and there and I ended up taking about all the gravel from underneath. They have many white roots going into the gravel gripping. Even then, majority of the stems are in water and not gravel. I have 4 year old flourite and another random brand I picked up from petco many years ago. I EI dose and dose iron separate.

I saw a discussion about this a little while ago on the forum, it was said that water column dosing was the most essential vs all other. I know Im not being helpful but I cant remember much, all I know is EI dosing should solve everything related to plant food.

My water temps are all over the place, I took out my heater because I didnt have space. My tank is in the living room and the wind from my AC cools the tank. In the morning its pretty cool to the touch, I dont have a thermometer, but I have the sticker one outside on the tank glass. atm, at 11 pm, its reading 27c, which is quiet warm. I think thats the max my temps hit. My lights turn off at 8 pm. I have two T8 shop light right on my tank with a wooden hood, so it stays humid below the lights and water line and warms up the water. Ill check the temp tom morning if its really important to you. Although I question my sticker thermo. During late day its a degree or two warmer. During winters though our living room gets much warmer than during summer. So my tank temps are never stable.

I bought blyxa a year ago and they ended up dieing off. I later on read that they live in rice paddies and dont like water flow. Mine were in direct water flow so I thought that was the case. Currently, my big patch is partially in water flow, but so far so good.

Pic of my blyxa is in this thread (http://www.gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47106)
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Old 07-23-2013, 10:25 AM   #27
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A comment on temperature because here in the tropics we get alot of temperature flux. In the tank in my room at night the temperature drops to 75 degrees fahrenheit due to air-conditioning, while in the day the temperature rises till 82/86 (depending on whether its a hot day, also cos I use metal halides). Blxya, HC seem to do okay. I'm not saying that flux or heat is good, in fact I think its de-stabilizing, but if your plants are healthy, they can take quite a bit of heat/flux without issues.

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Old 07-24-2013, 04:40 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfynyson View Post
Well now explain this. I cannot get it (blyxa japonica) to grow either and I dose EI, have high light, and pressurized CO2. Other things like Rotala rotundifolia do not do too well either while things like Blyxa aubertii "Kimberley", water sprite, and amazon swords I have to trim weekly (if not more frequent). My L. Atlantis & L. Aromatica took a long time to acclimate but is doing well now. I have the the japonica where it's not shadowed my taller plants and I've even tried in shadowed. I've also tried in the substrate, floating, and even tied to taller stem plants and Nothing works!

Tank parameters:
pH = 6.3-6.5 (well water is 7.0 & tank was 7.5-7.8 before CO2 injection began) dH =4 or about 72ppm as CaCO3 GH =71ppm as CaCO3 and same as 4dH KH = 5-7ppm Phosphorus = ~7-8ppm after one week Nitrates = ~40ppm after one week avg temp = 75-80F

substrate:
Eco-Complete & Flourite 3-4" deep laterite here & there w/ CariSea Instant Aquarium gravel (Peace River) w/ some river pebbles on top in certain areas w/ aquafertz trace & iron root pellets
wow..R. rotundifolia is pretty difficult to kill. im puzzled
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:35 PM   #29
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Ive upped my macros this past week and am dosing crap load of trace this week and my blyxa are turning red already. This is under T8s!!!!!!! No t5ho or led.
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:52 PM   #30
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I have my tank set to 80deg as I have GBR and Cockatoos coming from Matt and my Blyxa is like a damn weed spreading off-shots everywhere trying to take over. This is with a Ray 2 and Amazonia (with O+ tabs overkill) and 30ml of PPS Pro dosed daily.

The Blyxa jumped the the rock containment and wants to take over the HC's turf.
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