Thinking selling Ray 2 and going DIY full spectrum cannons
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Old 07-17-2013, 03:20 AM   #1
gus6464
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Thinking selling Ray 2 and going DIY full spectrum cannons


Just put together a reef cannon light with O2Surplus' Typhon with LDD board and it's so nice I want to do the same thing for my planted 29g. This is what I had in mind:

Tank is 30" long

2 of these cannons
Intel heatsink/fan
6 Rebel ES 6500K - 60deg optics
1 Rebel ES Green (530nm) - 90deg optics
1 Rebel ES Cool Blue (475nm) - 90deg optics
1 Rebel ES Deep Red (660nm) - 90deg optics

Typhon Controller
1 Mean Well LDD-1000H (whites)
3 Mean Well LDD-500H (colors)

48v 5a power supply

Whole thing comes out to <$200 for a fully dimmable (0-100), fully controllable full spectrum system.

The heatsinks are tiny at a 3.5" square and can cool a 77w chip. I will be putting half that per light. All housed in an acrylic box with open top.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:26 PM   #2
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Can you post some pictures of the heat sink and fan assemblies? I might have some suggestions for some that you may like better. Are both cannons going to be wired in series or parallel? I ask because if your going to wire them in parallel, you wouldn't need a 48V supply. A 24V supply would suffice.
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225 Gal, Glass "Reef Ready" w/ twin Iwaki Pumps & 2 Ocean Clear inline filters. Custom 320 watt LED Lighting system utilizing a 6' Maker's Heat Sink, 12 BridgeLux Vero 18's,3 purpose built 5 channel A6211 Led driver/Controllers,iAqua Aquarium Controller , and a 20lb CO2 system w/ Milwaukee Ph Controller.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:56 PM   #3
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Have you thought of just adding a MonsterRay? It won't solve your DIY fix if that is what you are looking for, but some members are getting some awfully nice looking results.

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Old 07-17-2013, 03:38 PM   #4
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RayII + Monster Ray = full spectrum awesomeness!

low heat, low wattage use, sleek profile...
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
Can you post some pictures of the heat sink and fan assemblies? I might have some suggestions for some that you may like better. Are both cannons going to be wired in series or parallel? I ask because if your going to wire them in parallel, you wouldn't need a 48V supply. A 24V supply would suffice.
I will post a pic when I get home but it's basically one of these. I cut off the little feet on the fan clamp so I could stick an aluminum plate on the heat sink for more surface area. You can get them for $7 on ebay with fan unit.





How would I go about wiring them in parallel?
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasCichlid View Post
Have you thought of just adding a MonsterRay? It won't solve your DIY fix if that is what you are looking for, but some members are getting some awfully nice looking results.

I thought about the MonsterRay but once I added it all up a Ray 2 and MonsterRay is ~$200. Same amount of money gets me a fully controllable, dusk/dawn, and dimmable lighting system. Plus let's say I upgrade to a longer tank later on all I have to do is add another cannon for ~$37/ea. With the Finnex I have to buy a whole new light.
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:56 PM   #7
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Gus-

Here's your wiring options-

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Old 07-17-2013, 08:25 PM   #8
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How big is the ray 2? I may take it off your hands(=
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
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How big is the ray 2? I may take it off your hands(=
It's the 30" fixture. Have had it for 30 days.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
Gus-

Here's your wiring options-

Thanks for the diagram, makes sense. But wouldn't wiring in parallel double the current while with voltage staying the same? From my experience with RC cars and lipo batteries:

If I have identical 2-cell 7.4v 5a batteries

- wiring in parallel yields a 2-cell 7.4v 10a battery
- wiring in series yields a 4-cell 14.8v 5a battery
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
Thanks for the diagram, makes sense. But wouldn't wiring in parallel double the current while with voltage staying the same? From my experience with RC cars and lipo batteries:

If I have identical 2-cell 7.4v 5a batteries

- wiring in parallel yields a 2-cell 7.4v 10a battery
- wiring in series yields a 4-cell 14.8v 5a battery
No- you're forgetting the fact that your current is coming from a "constant current led driver". The driver doesn't care if your driving an led or a dead short. It's only going to put out the amount of current that it's spec'd for.

The voltage can be cut in half on the input side, since the total Vf of 6 leds wired in parallel is half of the Vf of 12 leds wired in series.
Originally- your 12 series leds needed 48V. If rewired into parallel, you would only need 24V to drive 6 leds.

Isn't electronics fun? There's always more than one way to skin a cat.
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
No- you're forgetting the fact that your current is coming from a "constant current led driver". The driver doesn't care if your driving an led or a dead short. It's only going to put out the amount of current that it's spec'd for.

The voltage can be cut in half on the input side, since the total Vf of 6 leds wired in parallel is half of the Vf of 12 leds wired in series.
Originally- your 12 series leds needed 48V. If rewired into parallel, you would only need 24V to drive 6 leds.

Isn't electronics fun? There's always more than one way to skin a cat.
right voltage is additive in series.. amps are additive in parallel.. so you can't exceed the driver output if you want full on..

If a single string takes 1A and you add another identical one your diver must be capable of 2a output...even though your voltage remains the same..
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:35 PM   #13
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If you wire anything in series, you increase the resistance. So you need more amperage to push through. Do you have enough amperage? When you wire in parallel you make it easier for the current so you are able to drive whatever you wired with less effort (which is current or amperage).
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
No- you're forgetting the fact that your current is coming from a "constant current led driver". The driver doesn't care if your driving an led or a dead short. It's only going to put out the amount of current that it's spec'd for.

The voltage can be cut in half on the input side, since the total Vf of 6 leds wired in parallel is half of the Vf of 12 leds wired in series.
Originally- your 12 series leds needed 48V. If rewired into parallel, you would only need 24V to drive 6 leds.

Isn't electronics fun? There's always more than one way to skin a cat.
Ohh ok I get that makes sense. Should I go the same route with the 2 colored LEDs per LDD-500H? I know the LDDs can be pretty inefficient when running at low voltages.
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
right voltage is additive in series.. amps are additive in parallel.. so you can't exceed the driver output if you want full on..

If a single string takes 1A and you add another identical one your diver must be capable of 2a output...even though your voltage remains the same..
So if I wire the two sets of lights in parallel to the LDD at full blast I will only be getting 500ma per set as the LDD cannot output more than 1a?
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