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Old 06-14-2013, 11:14 PM   #16
mythin
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the substrate will house the nitrifying bacteria, if you have another tank set up, you could always use mulm/gunk from it, if not then you just have to be patient, when you read 0 ammonia, its cycled. Also the best practice for shrimp is a lot less water changes, I understand you're keeping them in a bowl, but i would say once a month max for water changes. With shrimp keep it simple, and keep it steady, watch your water for raise in nitrates and use that as the cue for water changes. I have a crs tank that I dont do water changes on, I top off the tank once a month with new R/O water, and just watch the TDS to make sure it doesnt get above 190ish, once it reaches 190-200, i will then do a water change to bring it down to ~150-175, then go back to just topping off again. I have hundreds of CRS babies.
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:15 AM   #17
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I don't think you can cycle a tank without a way to keep the water oxygenated. Nitrifying bacteria need oxygen to multiply right?:P if there's no circulation in the tank or surface agitation at all, I'm not sure they can survive. If you had a substantial amount of live plants, this wouldnt be a problem but the reason your shrimp died is most likely lack of healthy bacteria or a filter in general. If you've had the tank running for 2 weeks, that's definitely not cycled.
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Old 06-15-2013, 04:34 PM   #18
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Err not really, The BB mainly live in the filter. Other place they live are on the substrate, and on decor. The smaller the tank, the harder it is too keep the parameters stable. That is why Shrimp Breeder keep them in 10, or 20 Long tanks. Sure it a little shrimp, but its about stability of the water.
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Old 06-15-2013, 05:06 PM   #19
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In a pico tank, if you have it sufficiently planted, A filter is not necessary. But only if the tank is sufficiently planted.

I have over 50+ cherries (mostly juvies) in a 2.5 gallon tank, with no filter. Its a purposely low tech tank, but its a jungle in there, The only time i can see my shrimps clearly is during feeding time. It is very densely planted.

But i agree with the others, likely your tank is not planted enough to provide all the oxygen they need and it killed them.
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Old 06-20-2013, 03:39 AM   #20
Melissa71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjbn View Post
When it's lights out or really low light, plants do use up oxygen, although not sure if it's enough to deplete the water column of oxygen.

On this note, Melissa71, you probably had bad surface agitation that didn't allow enough gas exchange.
I didn't have any agitation at all. I'm new at planted tanks, this is my second attempt.

The crime scene: There were 5 bunches of mature plants that I didn't cut down before planting, plus the bunch of baby tears floating on top (the tall kind, I ordered the wrong ones wanted the cuba). I planted it that way because all of the advise I see online is to keep shrimp in stagnant water (apparently stagnant in the aquarist world doesn't mean what you think) and I was trying to use the plants to generate oxygen for them.

Yeah, I didn't think plants could suck up that much oxygen either. But it was obvious the next morning: There was no air in there. I had lost 30 shrimp, I think I have 60 left now.

Shrimp are smart that they went to the top and laid on the plants to get air. The ones on the bottom were probably because there wasn't enough room in the life boat :'(
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:52 AM   #21
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Lightbulb (some) DIY Low-flow circulation ideas for smaller tanks

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I was also thinking of making some sort of circulation pump to get a little flow. Thoughts? Also any ideas how to make one?
I've been keeping this concept in mind for a time it may be called upon. You could experiment with a DIY geyser pump, looks like it would be very low flow:

Also, a friend of mine got a ~2.5 gallon half-moon tank for his Betta. If I were to attempt some flow for that tank I would give a try to getting the smallest bubbler strip possible and get a flow control valve or gang valve on it, just for experimentation and to attend to an immediate need until something better comes along it if doesn't end up being the perfect answer. Bubbles create an "updraft" and convection currents with water flowing down from the top, across the bottom (across your plants) to the bubbler then up again. My shrimp (in 10 gallon tank) surprisingly enjoyed the bubbles, and used them like an elevator to get to the surface to feed or glide to the other side of the tank. When I shut it off they gathered around it, seeming to be waiting for it to turn back on again. (I have changed to the Fluval Nano in-tank filter with spray bar, however, and the bubble strip has been moved to my plant nursery bucket for now. They might eventually get the bubbler back, but my projects are all wanting aeration and the juggling act continues). With the gang valve you can control how fast it bubbles if full blast is too powerful. With a strip you can be certain that the flow is spread out across the bottom as opposed to the pattern of an aeration stone.

If you had an low gph external canister filter you could try putting a valve at the outtake to restrict/adjust the flow and extend the outtake down to the level that you want the flow to go. But that gets you into some expense if you don't already have an external canister. I don't think adding a valve would hurt the pump because this is the same concept used with de-nitration canister filters. Those use power filter pumps at the intake and the outflow drips at about one drop per second.
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:47 PM   #22
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Everything been very helpful, thanks everyone!
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