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#1 |
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Algae Grower
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Hi All,
Over the months I have been battling with hair algae. I think I mostly have it taken care now thanks to my Black Lyretail Mollies and maybe my Flying Fox but I have been left with these little short hairs all over my plants and I have no idea how, or if it is even possible, to get rid of them. ![]() Any suggestions? The tank looks great from a slight distance but when you start to really examine it you can see the darn hairs all over the place. Ryan :roll:
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My Aquarium (2.0MB Image) - SeaClear 25G Tall - Seachem Ferts - Hikari Food - AH Supply 55w CF Kit w/ 5300k Lamp - Eheim 2213 Classic - Pro Heat Titanium - Nutrafin CO2 NPS - Island Aquarium Canopy & Base - Vortex D-1 (Occasional Maintenance Polishing)
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#2 |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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Little more info plz
How powerful is your light? PO4 lvl and NO3 lvl? Plant fertilizer used? |
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#3 |
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Algae Grower
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Here is the info..
4.4wpg AH Supply CF @ 5300k / 12hr Photoperiod 0.0 PO4 (Hagen Test) 0.0 NO3 (Aquarium Pharm Test) 1.5ml/wk Seachem Flourish Comprehensive 20% Weekly Water Change
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My Aquarium (2.0MB Image) - SeaClear 25G Tall - Seachem Ferts - Hikari Food - AH Supply 55w CF Kit w/ 5300k Lamp - Eheim 2213 Classic - Pro Heat Titanium - Nutrafin CO2 NPS - Island Aquarium Canopy & Base - Vortex D-1 (Occasional Maintenance Polishing)
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#4 |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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Thanks for taking the time to bring the info.
From the info,i think it is the light that problems.4.4 watt per gallon seems to be too much. 2-3 watt per gallon is more sufficient in planted aquarium. To clean the algae for once and for all(i hope), cut off the plant leaves with most hair algae while the others,consider these: a)leave them for fish to eat. b)take the plant out of the water and use a sponge to scrape them off gently and wash them with tank water and place them back. c)Left the lights off for 72-96 hours so the algae will die off from lack of nutrients and light.(i don't recommend this one) And 40% water change is better for a weekly water change |
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#5 |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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um ace no it isn't due to high light. i have 1.5 watts per goolon in a 10 currently and i still have that stuff
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#6 |
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Wannabe Guru
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Do you inject CO2 into this tank? You need to add phosphates and nitrates to your tank if they are both at zero.
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George
#2 Ehfipimp extraordinaire! Eheim Pimp Club Recruiter, Saergant at Arms, and Enforcer. 29 and 45 gallon. 2026, 2028 My 29 gallon tank |
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#7 |
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Planted Tank VIP
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Your problem is your NO3 and PO4 levels. Algae can survive on nearly undetectable levels of N-P-K, while plants need those levels to be within a certain range to grow.
Add NO3 until it is between 5-10ppm and add PO4 until it is between 0.5-1ppm. Once your plants start growing quickly, there will be less algae on the new leaves, and you can trim off the old leaves.
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- Sam P -
plantedtanker in limbo - all tanks currently in storage |
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#8 |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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I also assume you don't have any K in your tank either. You should dose enough to bring your levels up to about 15-20ppm. You should be in business after that.
Maybe get a good algae crew to expedite the clean up too. |
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#9 |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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I can hardly tell the best way to fix algae breakout since i never experienced it before.... :lol:
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#10 |
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Algae Grower
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Thanks for all the suggestions!
I do dose CO2 via a yeast generator (not very effective but better than nothing). Do you think my test kits are OK or are Hagen and Aquarium Pharm kits known for not being accurate?
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My Aquarium (2.0MB Image) - SeaClear 25G Tall - Seachem Ferts - Hikari Food - AH Supply 55w CF Kit w/ 5300k Lamp - Eheim 2213 Classic - Pro Heat Titanium - Nutrafin CO2 NPS - Island Aquarium Canopy & Base - Vortex D-1 (Occasional Maintenance Polishing)
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#11 |
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Algae Grower
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I think that most test kits are accurate, it's just that some are easier to read than others. I have the Master Kit, which I think is the same as your Aquarium Pharm test (though I could be mistaken) and the reason I chose that one is because it's much easier to understand the readings than with some other tests. The colour charts that you match your results to seem a lot clearer than some.
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4ft tank - Keyhole Cichlids, Marbelled Hatchets, Corys (trilineatus, sterbai, albino sterbai), Brochis Splendens, Emporer Tetras, Golden Pencilfish, Glowlights, Rummynoses, Ottocinclus, Endlers Livebearers, Amano Shrimp (4x 30w Aqua-glo & Power-glo, laterite under sand substrate, Eheim Ecco 2236 and Fluval 4 plus filter)
2ft - Apistogramma Panduro, C139 corys 2.5ft - Breeding colony Zebra Plecs |
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#12 |
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Algae Grower
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What do you guys recommend for NO3 and PO4 supplementation? A Seachem product perhaps?
Ryan
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My Aquarium (2.0MB Image) - SeaClear 25G Tall - Seachem Ferts - Hikari Food - AH Supply 55w CF Kit w/ 5300k Lamp - Eheim 2213 Classic - Pro Heat Titanium - Nutrafin CO2 NPS - Island Aquarium Canopy & Base - Vortex D-1 (Occasional Maintenance Polishing)
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#13 |
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Wannabe Guru
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For a smaller tank Seachem is a great source, however if you have multiple tanks or a real large tank like I do. Such premixed products can start costing an arm and a leg.... At that point you would look to buy the specific chemicals you need...
Jason
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120g, Flourite & Sand. DIY Stand and Canopy. CF lighting 3wpg, Pressurized C02, DIY reactor. 2-XP3's, 500watt heater.
Heavily planted |
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#14 |
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Algae Grower
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Are there any companies that make a NO3 supplement? I am having a really hard time finding it at my lfs.
Ryan
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My Aquarium (2.0MB Image) - SeaClear 25G Tall - Seachem Ferts - Hikari Food - AH Supply 55w CF Kit w/ 5300k Lamp - Eheim 2213 Classic - Pro Heat Titanium - Nutrafin CO2 NPS - Island Aquarium Canopy & Base - Vortex D-1 (Occasional Maintenance Polishing)
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#15 |
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Wannabe Guru
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newplantguy,
I was just informed in my thread about algea of a place http://www.gregwatson.com/products.asp I just put in an order this afternoon, so I cant tell you much more... Jason
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120g, Flourite & Sand. DIY Stand and Canopy. CF lighting 3wpg, Pressurized C02, DIY reactor. 2-XP3's, 500watt heater.
Heavily planted |
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