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Old 04-28-2013, 12:53 PM   #31
james0816
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yep...will need to know what goes where for the assembly. I'll lay out the parts and snap a pic.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:19 PM   #32
WheeledGoat
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get creative! take a look at others' regulator builds for inspiration, but then forget them and do your own thing.

but you prob want to stick to this order, coming out of the regulator body;
-solenoid
-needle valve
-bubble counter

but positioning is up to your own creative genius! My life with kids and dogs and careless spouse dictated that I could not build one of those "straight-out" ones, where everything is in a line jetting out from the regulator. Too prone to damage/accidents. I built a few elbows into mine and kept it pretty compact.

Don't rush, and think about where this is going to be (under tank in cabinet?) Take your time planning and don't make your life harder later!
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:46 PM   #33
james0816
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ok...here's the pieces minus the regultor.
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:34 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
1/4 male npt to 1/8 female npt bushing
1/8 male/female npt elbow, 90 degree
1/8 male/female npt elbow, 45 degree
1/8 npt hex nipple, 2"
(your solenoid)
1/8 male npt elbow, 90 degree.
(the 6 port manifold)


it takes time to arrange the position of the fittings, but the post body position of your setup will be something like this, the bottom extend "arm" will be horizontal, and you can arrange the fittings to position the 6 ports manifold front, center or back.

1. 1/4 male npt to 1/8 female npt bushing
2. 1/8 male/female npt elbow, 90 degree
3. 1/8 male/female npt elbow, 45 degree
4. 1/8 npt hex nipple, 2"
5. (your solenoid)
6. 1/8 male npt elbow, 90 degree.
7. (the 6 port manifold)

thickness of teflon tape do the trick, really help to set the angle of different fittings, so the postbody will look like the picture.

a quick put together without the tape will give you better idea, so you will know how to set the angle of different fittings connections.

Last edited by Bettatail; 04-29-2013 at 12:18 AM.. Reason: edit
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:40 PM   #35
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Dry fit of parts. This look about right?

I'll start taping things up.

So once everything is taped and ready to go.....

What is the proper way of turning things on? Turn the valve on the tank first? The reg?

And for a probably stupid question....the needle valves on the manifold can be completely turned off right?

Oh....and at what pressure should I operate the reg at?
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Last edited by Darkblade48; 04-29-2013 at 11:43 AM.. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads clean
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:47 PM   #36
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alrighty folks....I have it all taped up and ready to connect the post body assemebly to the regulator.

Once it's all connected, I recon I'm ready to fire it up. Just need a little advice on how to turn everything on and pressures and such.

Thx

well crap...having a hard time removing the needle valve on the regulator.

Any thoughts here?

That puppy's on there purty tight and it's hard to get leverage to remove it from the reg. Tank is always moving.

well...i got over my timidness working with this stuff and just did it!

I actually had to dissassemble that needle valve to remove it. Worked rather well I must say. A bit of elbow grease and now I'm on me way.

Stay tuned.....

alright folks....thanks for barin with me here.

Here she is....all set up and ready to turn on.



looks like me only remaining question is the operating pressure now.

getn more excitin.

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Last edited by Darkblade48; 04-29-2013 at 11:43 AM.. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads clean
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:28 PM   #37
WheeledGoat
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keep the regulator pretty low - like 10-15psi going into the needle valves.

nice job! are all those bubble counters supported solely by the gas piping? by the time you fill those bubble counters up, you're gonna be dealing with enough weight that I might suggest finding another way to support it...
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:34 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WheeledGoat View Post
keep the regulator pretty low - like 10-15psi going into the needle valves.

nice job! are all those bubble counters supported solely by the gas piping? by the time you fill those bubble counters up, you're gonna be dealing with enough weight that I might suggest finding another way to support it...
Thanks.....

so do I open the tank valve all the way and then adjust the reg afterwards?

I'm guessing the guage on the left is the one I want to read around 15 psi correct?

oh...and yes...all the bubble counters are supported by the fittings. I guess I can rig up some type of platform for additional support.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:45 PM   #39
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hey guys....i may have a problem here.

I just opened the valve on the tank and the psi needle went to 40.

when I tried to dial it down, I only got it to 38. I can't get it any lower.

I don't have the solenoid plugged in yet.

Am I doing something wrong here?
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:51 PM   #40
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leak check the hell out of it first, it is many connection points and leak will be big issue if you are not 100% sure.

depends on the diffusing method(what kind of diffuser?), find out the the max back pressure on any of the six outputs, and set 5-15 psi more than the max back pressure.

it is 35-50 psi, if use super atomizer diffusers, much lower if use regular ceramic disc diffusers or reactors.
and for all six outputs, use the same type of diffusers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by james0816 View Post
hey guys....i may have a problem here.

I just opened the valve on the tank and the psi needle went to 40.

when I tried to dial it down, I only got it to 38. I can't get it any lower.

I don't have the solenoid plugged in yet.

Am I doing something wrong here?
I think the regulator handle wasn't at completely close position(counter clockwise) when you turn on the co2 tank.
turn on the solenoid to release the pressure then perform leak test.

Last edited by Darkblade48; 04-29-2013 at 11:44 AM.. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads clean
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:38 AM   #41
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ok....so turn the handle counter clockwise all the way?

Will the handle screw completely off? It felt pretty loose at one point. Just don't want to screw anything up.

I didn't hook up any lines as yet as I just wanted to test up to the manifold and see if all that was working.

As soon as I turned on the valve on the tank, the guage went to 40 psi. it never lost pressure.

and....I need to plug the solenoid in to off gas things and start over right?
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:58 AM   #42
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so when the regulator handle at close postion(loose, counter clockwise), the second stage still fill with pressurized air when the co2 tank turn on?
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:02 AM   #43
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yes...ill double check
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:32 AM   #44
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I think that did the trick.

Turned the solenoid on and bled off the gas.

I then open the gauge all the way and turned on the gas. I was able to adjust to 15psi.

The second stage is reading over 500. Is the amount of gas that is remaining in the tank by chance?
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:17 AM   #45
Bettatail
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The high pressure gauge at 500 psi, either the co2 in the co2 tank is near empty or the high pressure gauge is off calibration.

now do this:

1. turn off the co2 tank.
2. turn on the solenoid and release all co2 in the regulator, both of the gauges should be zero.
3. turn the regulator handle all the way loose, all the way, even if you turn the handle out, it is fine, it is easy to screw it back.
4. solenoid off, slowly turn on the co2 tank, the high pressure gauge should be around 800 psi, the low pressure gauge should be zero.
5. turn the regulator handle clockwise to let in the co2 from the first stage, and stop when the output pressure at a desire psi, such as 40 psi.

if follow all the above steps without problem and the same, then process leak check, the leak check link in my signature.
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