Hydor inline heater?
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:43 PM   #1
Mr. Leg
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Hydor inline heater?


I was going to get one for a small tank. My question is can you have too much power? I planned to get the 200w but the 300W is literally $6 more.
I figure get the extra power incase I want to use it on a bigger tank later.
Would it be ok?
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:46 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Leg View Post
I was going to get one for a small tank. My question is can you have too much power? I planned to get the 200w but the 300W is literally $6 more.
I figure get the extra power incase I want to use it on a bigger tank later.
Would it be ok?
Yup, it's hard to have too much heater...especially inline style heaters. You'll be fine.
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:47 PM   #3
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ok thanks, forgot to mention this was going on a Mini M right now.
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:51 PM   #4
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ok thanks, forgot to mention this was going on a Mini M right now.
I don't know what that is, but still it shouldn't matter. More wattage just means less time the heater has to be on to stabilize temperatures. I've often thought about getting a second 300 watt heater for my 90 simply because I do cold water changes.

They are rather large...I mean physically..in size. I'd guess mine to be the size of a 1 liter bottle...give or take. The 300 watt ones use 5/16 5/8 ID hose (I think the 200 use 1/2 inch)...are you gonna be able to work with that given your canister?
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:56 PM   #5
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The only issue I see is when the Hydor fails in a few years. Of two heaters I've had fail, one of them just wouldn't stop heating, and I came close to boiling my fish. That was a 300w submersible in a 25g.

Apparently, this is a common result when heaters do fail. And while the Hydors have a good reputation, they're pretty new. There's something about the wiring involving using a standard piece that's prone to failure after a set number of years. Vague, I know, but I read some info on it a while back, and unfortunately don't remember much about it. Do some research - if this is actually true, then the fact that the Hydor ETH has a short history will work against you if you depend on user reviews.

That being said, 1) I use one of them (the 200w) inline and have no complaints after 11+ months, and 2) even if it fails, there probably won't be much difference in the results between a 200w and 300w.
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:57 PM   #6
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yeah with either one. inlet is larger hose, and outlet is the smaller one, so im good either way. Its a ehiem 2211.
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:02 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daximus View Post

They are rather large...I mean physically..in size. I'd guess mine to be the size of a 1 liter bottle...give or take. The 300 watt ones use 5/16 ID hose (I think the 200 use 1/2 inch)...are you gonna be able to work with that given your canister?
Agreed that they're large. I was surprised by its bulk. To clarify, the 300w uses a 5/8" barb, and the 200w will come with either 1/2" or 5/8" - your choice. In addition, if you do a forum search and look for pics, you'll find a surprising number of them with DIY'd metal hose clamps on them. This is because the threaded barb/nut assembly works with a very specific size of hose - more specifically, a certain size of hose wall thickness. And that size, whatever it is, is not the same as that of the hose many of us pick up from Home Depot.

The hose clamps work great, but they're not terribly pretty. Good thing you're hiding the think somewhere other than in the tank
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevmo911 View Post
The only issue I see is when the Hydor fails in a few years. Of two heaters I've had fail, one of them just wouldn't stop heating, and I came close to boiling my fish. That was a 300w submersible in a 25g.

Apparently, this is a common result when heaters do fail. And while the Hydors have a good reputation, they're pretty new. There's something about the wiring involving using a standard piece that's prone to failure after a set number of years. Vague, I know, but I read some info on it a while back, and unfortunately don't remember much about it. Do some research - if this is actually true, then the fact that the Hydor ETH has a short history will work against you if you depend on user reviews.

That being said, 1) I use one of them (the 200w) inline and have no complaints after 11+ months, and 2) even if it fails, there probably won't be much difference in the results between a 200w and 300w.
Any heater that is not digitally controlled (normally with a separate temperature probe) will eventually fail simply due to use. Cheap heaters (Hydor included) use bi-metal type switches (simply put, two dissimilar metals sandwiched together that expand and contract at different temperatures set up to complete a circuit) that will eventually fail simply due to metal fatigue.

Some die in the on position, some in the off. Only way to be 99% sure this never happens to you is to go digital. However, many of the bi-metal heaters will last years and years...it really depends on how often the switch is used...and a degree of luck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevmo911 View Post
Agreed that they're large. I was surprised by its bulk. To clarify, the 300w uses a 5/8" barb,
*facepalm*

I meant 5/8ths, lol...not sure where I pulled 5/16ths from, lol.
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Old 01-13-2012, 05:12 AM   #9
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I'm surprised to read your post Kevmo. I haven't heard of any Hydor ETH's going in the fritz. The ONLY issues I have heard with them is due to operator error because the temp knob is easy to move and sometimes when the operator is messing with their filter or just the tubing, they can accidentally move the temp knob over to a hotter position essentially cooking their tank.

I have had my 300w ETH for about 5 years and it has been stupid reliable on my 37g which I keep at 82 and weekly do 50% WC's with much cooler water (just stressing that I give it a workout pretty regularly). I also have a fail safe since I decided to purchase a reef keeper for this tank which has a temp probe that I put in the tank. You can set the RK up to where if the probe registers a certain temp ( mine is set at 84) then the RK will kill power to whatever outlet you designate as your heater power source. But as if today, I doubt that feature will ever be necessary.
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:57 PM   #10
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I have 2 x 300 on my 130gal planted running on a Medusa Temp controller and one 300 running on my 130 Cichlid tank. They have never given me problems....Three plus years now I would say or more.
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:37 PM   #11
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If you can hide them in a sump, it is better to go with 2 small heaters rather than 1 large heater. If a heater fails in the "on" position, you could cook your fish. If the heater isn't strong enough to raise the tank temperature that much on its own, then you are safer.

Of course, this is coming from a reef background (sump). Those in-line heaters are more expensive, so having two smaller ones might not be ideal.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:14 PM   #12
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bsmith hit the nail on the head.

If you're super-worried about cooking your fish, invest in a temperature controller. Sometimes you can find them used online and on various forums for much cheaper than they are new. Well worth the peace of mind.
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Old 01-14-2012, 04:50 AM   #13
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http://www.etcsupply.com/etc-control...0e526314f1533f

http://www.jehmco.com/html/heaters.html#Heater%20Module
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:17 AM   #14
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Reliable heaters for sure.
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:23 AM   #15
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I'm pretty sure you can get a Reef Keeper Lite wich consists of the main controller, one module which each module has 6 outlets (4 outlets can be set to timers and 2 are always on I believe), iTemp probe (temp probe that goes in your tank that can be linked to an outlet to turn off/on power to it if the temp hits a designated point you program), power cord and a USB interface to download info from the main controller to your CPU.

You can run up to 4 modules with a single controller giving you a maximum of 24 outlets and you can even hook up pH probes and a bunch of other stuff too I'm pretty sure.

Again on my high tech 37g with 2 banks of lighting, co2 solenoid, heater, koralia power head, I have everything running with a single RKL. They really are a heck of a deal and allow you to control everything from a single point and rid your stand of all of those crappy brinkman analog/digital timers!
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