API ph up and bamboo shrimp
Planted Tank Forums
Your Tanks Image Hosting *Tank Tracker * Plant Profiles Fish Profiles Planted Tank Guide Photo Gallery Articles

Go Back   The Planted Tank Forum > Specific Aspects of a Planted Tank > Fish


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-07-2013, 02:04 PM   #1
abarker
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 15
Default

API ph up and bamboo shrimp


I'm having an urgent situation. My alkalinity levels are low. My fish are stressing out. I did a cleaning, and I have heard after a cleaning levels should go back to normal. Well it hasn't. I have a bamboo shrimp, that I know is sensitive to many API treatments. I was hoping to fix the alkalinity levels without using any treatments. But if that won't work, I have API Ph Up on hand. I would like to know if this product will kill my bamboo shrimp, before I put this product in my tank. Any suggestions will help.
abarker is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-07-2013, 04:37 PM   #2
Aquatic Delight
H is for Hillstream
 
Aquatic Delight's Avatar
 
PTrader: (10/100%)
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Space Coast, Florida
Posts: 2,144
Default

any wild PH swings, or changes in water chem can harm inverts and fish. but the product itself i don't believe is harmful to bamboo shrimp
__________________
Will
________________________________

Hillstream/Boreno Loach Refuge

A Light Heart is Better than a Heavy Wallet.
Aquatic Delight is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-07-2013, 05:31 PM   #3
Diana
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Contra Costa CA
Posts: 8,280
Default

KH is carbonates.
Adding any product that contains carbonates (including tap water if it has carbonates) will add carbonates to the tank water.
Carbonates are a buffer that can affect the pH.
pH is not that critical to many fish, it is the mineral level (GH, KH and TDS) that is more important.

Some of the things going on in the tank can lower the carbonates. If there have not been regular water changes then the reduction in carbonates can continue until the test reads 0 degrees KH.
If you do regular water changes with water that has carbonates (almost all tap water has carbonates) then the tank water will show carbonates that stay pretty stable, and similar to the tap water. Longer time between water changes and the KH can cycle between high (tap water) and reducing levels as the various processes use up the KH.
The pH will usually follow the KH variations. When the KH is high the pH tends to be high. As the KH drops the pH is more free to do something else, dictated by something else in the tank. Often this is organic acids, so the pH usually drops when the KH drops. Not always, though.

Anyway...
Sudden changes in mineral levels are not good for fish or other aquatic organisms.
If your tank is showing a slow drop in GH, KH or TDS then you can supplement in any of several ways.
1) If your tap water has the right levels, then do larger, more frequent water changes so that the levels stay closer to where you want them.
2) Add a natural source that dissolves slowly in the water. Coral sand, oyster shell grit (sold for caged birds), limestone sand or gravel and similar materials will dissolve more in acidic/low mineral water and less when the pH, GH, KH and TDS is higher. This is a naturally regulating source of the minerals that the tank may need. You cannot rely on them to dissolve immediately when you do a water change, though. When I use these materials I make up the new water to match what I want the tank to be and rely on these materials to keep the tank stable through the week. For hard water tanks (live bearers, Rift Lake fish) I keep some of these materials in a nylon stocking in the filter.
3) Use faster acting materials, at smaller doses to gradually change the mineral levels in the water. Do not use so much that the mineral levels take a sudden jump.
I use baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) for KH, Seachem Equilibrium for GH. I prepare new water in a garbage can, and use a fountain pump to circulate and dissolve these materials. I make sure the net result of the water change will make the tank water not more than 15% harder or 10% softer than what the fish were used to. This takes a bit of math to work out, but is actually pretty easy.
I have also added these materials directly to the tank, dissolving them in a small amount of water, then pouring them in directly in front of the filter outlet or power head. Make sure the dose is right so the change in mineral level is not too great at any one time. It takes a while for fish to adapt, but a change of 15% higher at any one time can be repeated about twice a week.

My info is based on keeping many types of fish, including some that were quite delicate and could not tolerate swings in water mineral levels.
I am not sure about Bamboo Shrimp. Are they sensitive to some of the ingredients available on the shelf? I do not know.
How much of a change in mineral levels can they tolerate? I do not know.
Is pH more important to them than it is to fish? I do not know.
Diana is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-07-2013, 05:46 PM   #4
abarker
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 15
Default

A bit confused on what I should do now. Should I use the api pH up treatment or not? Should I use baking side? Or should I do another cleaning. I have one molly, two danio, one guppy, two gourami, a very small catfish, and one snail and a bamboo shrimp. A 30 gallon tank. I do regular cleaning once a week. Fed twice a day.
abarker is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-07-2013, 09:35 PM   #5
Darkblade48
Moderator
 
Darkblade48's Avatar
 
PTrader: (3/100%)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Japan
Posts: 9,427
Default

What exactly is your carbonate reading? What you may think is low may not necessarily be low.

Measure your carbonate hardness in your aquarium as well as straight out of your tap.

Do not use the API pH Up treatment, as a fluctuating pH will be worse for your livestock.
__________________
Anthony

A Primer to Pressurized CO2 and A Primer to Planted Tanks
Eheim Pimp #362 - Eheim 2213 x2, Eheim 2028, Eheim 2217, Eheim surface skimmer and Eheim autofeeder.
Victor Pimp #33 - HPT272-125-350-4M
Darkblade48 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 12:54 AM.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright Planted Tank LLC 2012