Holes in dwarf baby tears old growth
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:07 AM   #1
LeMoine
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Holes in dwarf baby tears old growth


So my dwarf baby tears have been looking fairly green and healthy, however they are not pearling and havent seemed to be growing much. Upon further inspection I noticed some small pinholes in the old leaves. This leads me to believe I am not dosing enough potassium? I am dosing according to EI 6 days a week and was wondering how much I could/should increase my dose by. When testing my nitrates, it appears that my nitrogen levels are super low, something like .24 ppm. Also wondering if this could be part of the problem?
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:23 AM   #2
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I don't have an answer but I'm going to follow along. I've been noticing similar holes in my hygro sunset.
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:10 AM   #3
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You can't grow plants with near zero nitrates, so at the very least you need to dose some KNO3 or other nitrogen fertilizer to bring the level up over 10 ppm. What lighting are you using? Are you using CO2?
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:50 AM   #4
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Hoppy knows... Up the nutrients..
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:55 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
You can't grow plants with near zero nitrates, so at the very least you need to dose some KNO3 or other nitrogen fertilizer to bring the level up over 10 ppm. What lighting are you using? Are you using CO2?
My diandria, rotala, and liliaopis maritana are all growing very well, its just the hc im having trouble with. I am dosing 1.5 grams of kno3 3 times a week, but every time I do a test, the results dont seem to change. Lighting is tek t5ho 36' with two bulbs, 4 inches above the water. Co2 is set to 1 bubble every two seconds, which keeps my drop checker green all day long.

How much more KNO3 can I add safely? (tank is 40g)
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:58 AM   #6
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Green drop checker is a good thing and a measurement we can use.. try to keep all nutrients available to the plants dbt is tricky... Congrats on keeping the lilaeopsis going.. I killed Brazil and mauritiana. I just got new Zealand to try
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:11 AM   #7
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Have you calibrated your test kit? Also- a drop checker is a loose gauge of co2 levels at best; I'm going to say you need to raise your co2 concentration and see what happens. HC will survive at nominal co2 levels, but it wont thrive. I suggest you up your injection rate slowly over the next few days and find the highest point to which you can push it without your livestock becoming lethargic and showing signs of stress.

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Old 03-31-2013, 05:17 AM   #8
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Please pardon my spelling haha, the lilaeopsis took awhile but its finally taking off! Genomer- I have not calibrated my test kit, wasn't aware that was possible. Its a red sea algae master test kit (KNO3,KH2P04). I will turn up the co2 a bit more tomorrow. One thing I was thinking might be helpful is moving my circulation pump next to the diffusor so that bubbles could be blown directly at the HC. I remember reading somewhere that this method had worked.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:37 PM   #9
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So I upped the co2 a bit and for the first time my plants are starting to pearl. However, I had two fish turn white today and died. I was watching them throughout the day but didnt notice any of them gasping for air at the surface. Not sure if its co2 related as the rest of my fish/shrimp dont seem affected at all. Anyone have any input on this?
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:45 PM   #10
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Sorry about the fish.

I think you need to get a handle on your nitrate levels before you do anything else. Aim for 10-30 ppm. EI should get you there, but testing to confirm is a good idea.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:13 PM   #11
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Sorry about the fish.

I think you need to get a handle on your nitrate levels before you do anything else. Aim for 10-30 ppm. EI should get you there, but testing to confirm is a good idea.
Yea pretty bummed, but I guess thats just how it goes sometimes. EI daily levels havent raised my nitrate levels much at all. Im gonna run some tests to see how much extra I need to be adding
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:39 PM   #12
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sorry about the fish...not really sure if it really was the co2 that killed them but for me whenever I want to rais co2 levels I do it gradually over days that way it gives my fish time to adjust to the higher co2 levels.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:21 PM   #13
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sorry about the fish...not really sure if it really was the co2 that killed them but for me whenever I want to rais co2 levels I do it gradually over days that way it gives my fish time to adjust to the higher co2 levels.
Thanks, thats what I was thinking. I only turned it up from 2 seconds per bubble to 1bps. Although thats double what was being injected before, its not too drastic of a change. Im going to run it one more day at 1bps and see if any of my other fauna are affected, if so then I will cut it back to the last setting.
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:27 PM   #14
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Thanks, thats what I was thinking. I only turned it up from 2 seconds per bubble to 1bps. Although thats double what was being injected before, its not too drastic of a change. Im going to run it one more day at 1bps and see if any of my other fauna are affected, if so then I will cut it back to the last setting.
how do you know how much co2 you're putting into your tank to say that it's not too drastic of a change with 1bps vs 1 bubble/2sec? just curious cause i think the bps gauge is used very loosely and would like to know how others are calculating co2 levels.

the drop checker by all means is just an indicator to see drastic changes but usually from my experience too slow to react to until too late. it can take anywhere from 2-4 hours from my experience to tell a difference in color - by then, your fish might be all dead.
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:38 AM   #15
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Quote:
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how do you know how much co2 you're putting into your tank to say that it's not too drastic of a change with 1bps vs 1 bubble/2sec? just curious cause i think the bps gauge is used very loosely and would like to know how others are calculating co2 levels.

the drop checker by all means is just an indicator to see drastic changes but usually from my experience too slow to react to until too late. it can take anywhere from 2-4 hours from my experience to tell a difference in color - by then, your fish might be all dead.
Sorry this is very late, but I have the aquariumplants carbon doser electronic regulator and it has settings based on seconds per bubble. It is highly possible that this regulator is not 100% accurate, im not too sure. I ran a test on my test kit today and according to my tests the water should have measured 5ppm, when my test kit read .25. I used rex griggs testing method, however I cant fathom how the test could be so inherently wrong. Any input?
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