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Old 04-09-2013, 02:03 PM   #31
Hilde
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Was wondering if it is possible to use epoxy glue instead of the rubber stoppers in the bottle? For I will be using
1 pt perrier soda bottle.
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:03 PM   #32
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Was wondering if it is possible to use epoxy glue instead of the rubber stoppers in the bottle? For I will be using 1 pt perrier soda bottle.
You mean drill a hole through the plastic cap of the 1-pt bottle and then epoxy the airline in the hole? I think that is a good solution. That is how I used to do DIY CO2 before I started with wine. In fact in 1 way I like that setup better because a screw-on cap tends to make a better seal against the bottle compared to the stopper in the bottle opening. But since I now prefer a glass bottle to plastic, I deal with the stoppers. Rarely does one pop out from pressure (which would not happen with the screw-on cap), but it can happen.
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:52 PM   #33
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You mean drill a hole through the plastic cap of the 1-pt bottle and then epoxy the airline
Yes!! For I don't think I can find rubber stoppers for the bottles I have. I have RW Knudsen juice bottles and Perrier soda bottles. The juice bottles probably take a #3. On line they are $8 with shipping. I feel that is to much for 3 bottles.

Found a local brewing company. If the glass bottles aren't to big and expensive I will get them. Got to do my taxes etc. now, thus it will be awhile before I get to it. Hopefully not longer than 2 weeks.
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:16 PM   #34
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If you are using typical vinyl airline tubing, you might be able to get away with drilling a hole slightly smaller then the outside diameter of the tubing, and smoothing it out nice, and then forcing the tubing into it for a compression seal.
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:39 AM   #35
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Default Re: ultimate DIY CO2 with benefits… wine byproduct!

Ok, I have most of the supplies for my 45g tank. Got six 1 quart glass bottles tonight to go with the wine stoppers and snake thingys. I just need to drink the content of the bottles, which as an added bonus had beer in them. I hope an amber look in the bottle wont affect the taste of the wine... sigh, gotta go back to drinking the beer. The sacrifices we make for our plants
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:31 AM   #36
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I hope an amber look in the bottle wont affect the taste of the wine...
Colored glass is a bit of a trade-off. It is better than clear glass in protecting the product from sunlight which can make off flavors (same as beer, which is why the best beers should be in brown bottles and are less likely to get 'skunked'). That said, I do like a clear bottle for being able to see exactly what is going on in there. I just make sure to keep everything out of direct sunlight. Purists actually wrap their carboys or other fermenting vessels in opaque covers, and of course store the final product in a dark place. Oh, the color of the glass does not affect flavor, to answer your original question. The glass is inert, which is why I prefer it to plastic.
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:07 PM   #37
JustAGuy716
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FYI, just saw this in the catalog they sent me:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/s...-core-kit.html

Seems like a nice way to get started with this
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:45 AM   #38
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I see you used T-Valves. What other valves are needed?
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:46 AM   #39
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I see you used T-Valves. What other valves are needed?
Nothing really. I have air locks (triple ripples) on the top of each bottle that serve as cheap bubble counters to see the progress of each jar individually, but even these are superfluous. I know from good experience that it takes the better part of a week for a new one to really kick in, and they slow down enough to be pulled at ~3.5 weeks. The T valves bring them all together into a single line, which I did run through a cheap airline check valve in case the system ever lost pressure so the tank would not siphon out, but those things are garbage and I would not include one if I did it again. And then it goes through a glass bubble counter which, to be honest, I do not use to count bubbles because they go so fast (I guess ~10/sec for ~150 gallons). Mostly I look to the bubble counter to make sure it is running; if it is slow or stopped I know I have a leak at one of the rigged airlocks. Now that all is in balance, I would skip all the counters and go with 6 bottles into T valves to the reactor and just watch the drop checker.
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:58 PM   #40
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What do you do about the sediment? There is a awful lot of yeast floating around in those bottles. Do you rack it to try and clarify a bit or just let it set for a while to let the yeast settle to the bottom?
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:54 AM   #41
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I'm new to co2, I have a moderately planted 40 gallon, would 5 quart bottles in rotation be too much? Is there a way to throttle the co2 with a DIY setup or do you just add and remove bottles? What type of diffusion do you recommend, I saw that you run a power head with the lights, do you just put the diffuser front of the power head?

Should I start with 1 bottle and wait 5 days and add another until I'm up to 5? do the plants, fish, ecosystem need time to adjust?

Do you think a brass fitting from the hardware store could be used to adapt the line to the top of the airlock?

Wine question, After rotate a bottle out do you remove the airlock and seal it with a cap or cork while its aging for a few months?

Sorry if any on these are painfully obvious but I wanted to start out doing this the right way!

Last edited by Mostlydave; 04-30-2013 at 05:41 PM.. Reason: Edited question
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:15 PM   #42
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5 pints might be better scaled to a 40-gal (25% of my setup). Or, as you say, you can divert some surplus CO2 through a valve or deliberately inefficient reactor. Don't throttle back; you'll probably blow something up. Yes, I run the CO2 line into the inlet of a powerhead in the sump; the powerhead runs on a timer with the lights. I do have a fancy timer that will alternate the powerhead with an airstone, switching an hour before the lights come on (air to CO2) and off (CO2 to air), just have't hooked it up yet. Yes, I'd start with one bottle and every 5 days add another. When I pull a bottle, I loosely cap it because it is still putting off some CO2 and would pop a cork. Sadly (or happily) the bottles do not see a few months age in our house.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:32 PM   #43
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Thanks for the info, I found reasonably priced 24oz glass bottles, so I may try this and use 1/3 of your recipe and see how it goes.

As UberSquid asked above, do you do anything about the sediment before drinking?
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:04 AM   #44
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Sorry, I missed the ubersquid post. The suspended particulate settles as the yeast die and sink. By the time I pull a bottle (nearly a month), most of it is already at the bottom. One could let it settle more if one were so inclined, or add various 'professional' fining agents like clay or swim bladder. What is left in suspension does not phase me, although we do pour carefully to keep from disturbing the sediment (mother, as it is technically called). I suppose we could rack it to another bottle if it really bothered us. Usually I drink much of it in the last glass anyway; it's supposed to be full of B vitamins.
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:25 AM   #45
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For glass bottles I got 3 Perrier sparkling water bottles 750ml at a grocery store. The bottles cost about $2 each. For stoppers I got these little orange stoppers, which are used for test tubes, at a hardware store.
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