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Old 03-13-2013, 03:13 AM   #31
Svitlana
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Ok i will add ick guard tomorrow and wil urn the lights off or 24 hours, should i leave the filter on or off?
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:19 AM   #32
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Leave the filter on. I'll be checking this thread regularly for any updates.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:22 AM   #33
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I have added ick solution, did 24 hours black out and was going to add temperature, but how high can I go, not to kill the fish?
thank you
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:21 AM   #34
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Temperature increase isn't required for this kind of ick medication. Heat is usually used alone (86F), or in conjunction with aquarium salt, as an alternative to chemical medication.
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:57 AM   #35
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I have added a second dose of ick guard but some of the fish still have it, i guess i should repeat in 24 hours. I have also noticed that my neons disappeared, never seen this before, completely gone. My husband is telling me that they must have died and other fish ate them. Is anything like that possible?
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:07 AM   #36
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Someone advised me to get rid of finnex ray and go back o my 15 w lights,plant some low light plants that fish would not touch and the plants will be fine with that type of light. Now i am really confused... Please help
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:14 AM   #37
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Ick treatments take a few days to work, usually around day #2 you'll see improvement.

It's possible with the neons that they were eaten. But conduct a thorough search and make sure they're not hiding. Or if you find any corpses, remove them immediately; a common place for them to end up is stuck to the filter intake.

Do you have an ammonia test? If so, have you checked for ammonia? Especially now that there's been a loss of fish, we need to make sure the tetracycline didn't harm your biofilter enough that it's allowing ammonia to build up. It's very toxic and can kill all your fish.
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:42 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Svitlana View Post
Someone advised me to get rid of finnex ray and go back o my 15 w lights,plant some low light plants that fish would not touch and the plants will be fine with that type of light. Now i am really confused... Please help
Ok. A little primer on this.

Light provides energy for plants to grow. The more light, the faster they try to grow.

Of course, plants can't grow on energy alone. They need food as well. Just like we need a healthy balance of carbohydrates, proteins, fats, plus vitamins and minerals, plants also need a variety of things.

If you were asked to work hard, day after day, while not eating enough or properly nutritious food, you would eventually weaken, get sick, and possibly die. If a plant is driven to grow fast by light, and there isn't enough of what it needs in the water, the same happens to them.

The more light there is, the more likely that something plants need in the tank will be consumed until it runs out. With low light, there's usually enough around from tapwater and fish food that it's not a problem. But with more light, you have to be familiar with all the plants' requirements, and add them as needed. So unless you're ready to start learning about those requirements and how to satisfy them, best to stay with low light.

I'm not familiar with the Finnex Ray, but someone else already suggested it was probably overkill - meaning it's more than low light. And although photos can be deceiving, it looks bright enough that I believe they're right.
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:36 PM   #39
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I did the test, everything is fine and safe except for water is hard.
I have also added more Ick Guarad because loach still has it.
I am trying to get rig of bacteria manually and by turning off the lights.
Later, after it is all clean I would like to get some plants (someone advised sword as these are hard to "chew" for fish), do I have to change what I have on the bottom?
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:01 PM   #40
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Svitlana,

Could we oblige you to post the readings you got? Also, how often are you testing? Right now, with your tank in a state of flux, I would advise you to test (and log) your daily readings of Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate to start. I suspect your biological filter (the good bacteria that convert highly toxic ammonia and nitrIte to a less toxic plant food called nitrAte) is suffering at best. It seems like you may be doing far too much to your tank at one time. It's an easy mistake for even seasoned enthusiasts to make because we want our tanks looking good and healthy, and we want it yesterday. Any aquarium process is just that: a process. Processes take time.

Do you understand the nitrogen cycle? If not, I would start there before you dive too deeply into planted tanks. There is no reason why fish REQUIRE planted tanks. Start with the basics and incorporate more factors from there.
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:04 PM   #41
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Thanks for checking ammonia. Finding none is good news.

Gravel isn't the best substrate for plants, but many plants will do fine in it. So no need to change it just yet.

Swords are one of those that don't do so well in gravel, in my opinion. However, most fish stores will carry at least one variety of "root tab", which is a little fertilizer pellet made to be aquarium-safe. Push one into the gravel, right underneath the sword's roots, and it will grow much better; typically for a couple of months until the tab is depleted. I did this early on when I started keeping plants, and a sword that just sat there for months, suddenly filled half the tank.

One other plant I'll suggest, because I can think of none harder for a fish to destroy, are anubias. Their leaves are like leather. They normally grow slowly, and are undemanding except for one thing - they have a thick stem, almost like a tuber (called a rhizome) which must not be buried in the gravel. Some of the fine roots should be buried if possible, otherwise don't worry about them, they'll extend into the gravel on their own after time. If it's not possible to secure it in place without burying the rhizome, tie it loosely to a rock or other decoration.
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:08 PM   #42
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Can I get these from the members here? and most important when should I start planting?
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:40 PM   #43
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I've seen those plants sold in the Swap 'n Shop from time to time. If you post a Want To Buy (WTB), someone may be able to help you faster.

But I'd finish off treating the ick, switch back to the old light, and deal with the BGA before adding more plants.

gSTiTcH has an excellent point. Understanding the nitrogen cycle (what happens to fish waste and how to keep your fish from being poisoned by it) is necessary knowledge for keeping fish, much less plants. That was the very first thing I learned, and learned well, before I set up my first aquarium.
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:56 PM   #44
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I am back again. I have been changing the water, scraping the walls and checking the water. I have also been using the light for 8 hours. I have decided to keep finnex for the time when i will be able to add some plants. I got rid of ick and unfortunately lost 2 fishies after the treatment. Now i have noticed that there are some new green spots on the glass. What is it this time? Attaching a picture.
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:57 PM   #45
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Another one.
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