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Old 11-17-2013, 01:12 PM   #16
movementality
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Hi folks,

Just tested my tap yesterday Brookline/JP. Parameters:

pH 7.6 (possibly due to aeration from the faucet)
KH 2-3
GH 4-5

Just getting into shrimping. Anybody interested in getting rid of some culls?
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Old 11-17-2013, 01:18 PM   #17
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I used to have CRS/CBS when they weren't hardy yet three or so years ago and did the whole annoying RO and remineralize thing. It took a huge amount of time and effort. I really didn't like it much.

I found it's easier to just go with tap water here in Boston and so now I am only keeping species that don't need extras (so maybe no sulawesis on second note). I treat the water with Prime and then throw an airstone into it for a couple of days. Before I add it to heated tanks, I put heater into it to raise the temp, otherwise I just leave it alone. Out of the 6 tanks I have so far (at least the ones I'm counting) only three are heated. The rest are at room temp which is around 22-24 degrees anyways so it doesn't impact the water temp much if I don't heat the water first.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:27 PM   #18
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Weekly 50% wc. Tank is always hovering around 160TDS. My ph hovers around 5.7-6.5. (Co2)
No fauna yet.


Out of tap have had it as low as 80TDS. As high as 120. PH is about 6.8-7.
Few squirts if prime and right into the tank for me.



Never tested for anything else.


I use to use RO but it got annoying. Not keeping anything so fragile.


There's a water main break in south Boston. Dunno if that is messing w anything today.
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:57 PM   #19
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Speaking of the MWRA tap water, I'm not sure what has happened the last two months it seems they are overchlorinating the water. The Brita can't even get rid of the taste.
Oh geez I guess it is time to get an RO/DI system.
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Old 11-18-2013, 02:40 PM   #20
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Come to think of it, my TDS fluctuates from 100-130 or so.

Not planning RO/DI unless things get drastic.
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:37 PM   #21
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One thing to keep in mind is that TDS is an aggregate measurement of the content of the water that you're testing. Without testing for individual compounds you won't really know what composes that TDS, unless you read the water report from your DPW.

The more you strip from the water, the more you'll most likely need to add back to supplement plant growth / inverts molting.

I personally use RODI all the time, flourish root tabs, and pressurized CO2 and that has grown dwarf baby tears quite well. I also infrequently dose some flourish and flourish excel. The advantage of using RODI in my opinion is that it sets up a much more controlled environment to work with.

I use Spectrapure RODI units. You could also set up a RODI system for drinking water attached to your kitchen sink. I used to do that to start off with in addition to a bigger unit. (Fun fact, did you know RODI water helps prevent tear stains on fluffy white dogs?)

When you choose a RODI unit, make sure to check the permeability of the prefilter. Some brands will be "cheaper" but when you inspect the technical specifications they pass through a lot of stuff due to inferior filters. You end up wasting money replacing filters which adds up to be more than the difference in the cost of the unit.

Also check the waste ratio. This is the ratio of how much water you "waste" to create RODI water. I use a 1:1 Spectrapure UHE 100 unit. Saves a LOT of water. Not just good for the environment but good for your water bill. Most consumer grade units are 4:1.

I also have a backwashable pre-filter that is used in addition to the 0.2 micron pre-filter part of the UHE 100 unit which helps in the longevity of my other filters. The building I'm in has an incoming TDS of ~500-600 due to iron piping and other junk, so it has been very beneficial. You lucky guys with 80-130 TDS tap water will most likely not need to replace your filters much at all.

Happy to help with advice on RODI units / install. They are pretty easy to install and tend to come with good instructions.
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Old 11-18-2013, 11:01 PM   #22
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My 6g planted Bowl on the kitchen counter has a TDS reading of 84. I drain 30% every few days, and just fill back up with the faucet hose untreated.

Now as mentioned earlier my 20g planted had a TDS reading of 197, and tonight 182. I do dose flourish once a week in it, and 50% water changes ones a month.

My faucet a few minutes ago read 92. I also started a 20g reef project a month ago, and want to do for now 25% a week water changes. What would be a good RO/DI given the faucet readings, and RO/DI needed each month, that i can hook up to the faucet as i cant really install inline with the piping as i'm leasing the house lol.

I tried grabbing a water quality report for Humarock, but cant seem to. I'm in a proxy of Scituate, but marshfield supply's Humarock's water.
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:14 AM   #23
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Do you all let your water sit/aerate before adding to the tank? Ive tested the PH straight from the tap and its off the chart of my API liquid kit. Ive been using the python for years and just treating enough dechlorinator for the whole tank as I start filling it. I live in a small apartment and just dont have the space for containers.
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:24 AM   #24
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It's hard for me to say what's a good RO/DI without knowing the chemical composition of the water that's resulting in your TDS readings.

It could be compounds that RO completely gets rid of. It could be compounds only DI gets rid of. It could be a mixture.

The point of any RODI unit is to reduce TDS to 0 so they should all work. I would weigh the factors I mentioned in RODI selection (waste ratio, filters, and GPD).

As for something that can attach to a faucet.. that greatly limits your selection. They tend to be RO only, at least the ones I've seen. Also, not all faucets are compatible. They tend to work on "utility" faucets and not something like a Grohe or Kohler designer faucet.

To widen your options, you should be able to get an add-on T plumbing part in which you can direct the new outlet to a standalone RODI unit. It may require a few parts, maybe even a hacksaw in older situations, but I can't tell you without seeing your plumbing situation.

Though really the easiest thing to do might be to just buy RODI. Most places sell it for $1/gallon. You're not dealing with a large system and you're not changing water that frequently. You'll most likely use it for top off and occasional water changes. Going with a RODI unit versus buying it from somewhere depends on your usage. You can do the math to figure out when you would break even, etc. Buying the RODI water also means you don't need to replace filters, etc, so make sure to factor that in. You can even buy premixed saltwater or natural saltwater.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrypticLifeStyle View Post
My 6g planted Bowl on the kitchen counter has a TDS reading of 84. I drain 30% every few days, and just fill back up with the faucet hose untreated.

Now as mentioned earlier my 20g planted had a TDS reading of 197, and tonight 182. I do dose flourish once a week in it, and 50% water changes ones a month.

My faucet a few minutes ago read 92. I also started a 20g reef project a month ago, and want to do for now 25% a week water changes. What would be a good RO/DI given the faucet readings, and RO/DI needed each month, that i can hook up to the faucet as i cant really install inline with the piping as i'm leasing the house lol.

I tried grabbing a water quality report for Humarock, but cant seem to. I'm in a proxy of Scituate, but marshfield supply's Humarock's water.
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:28 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Projectp View Post
Do you all let your water sit/aerate before adding to the tank? Ive tested the PH straight from the tap and its off the chart of my API liquid kit. Ive been using the python for years and just treating enough dechlorinator for the whole tank as I start filling it. I live in a small apartment and just dont have the space for containers.
If you're getting the tap water from a faucet, most faucets have aerators (to save water), so it's already aerated! If it's from somewhere without an aerator, I personally don't intentionally let it sit around or aerate it. It's because whatever system I'm adding it to already has great flow / surface agitation.

I would check the expiration on your test kit. Tap water is usually within a magnitude from neutral unless you have exceptionally degraded plumbing.
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:41 AM   #26
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MA has really high ph when it comes out of the tap. My tap comes out at ph 9 (tested with less than 4 months old test kit). The ph goes back to around 7 withint 24-48 hours (without airstone). (ph out of tap is different depending on how far you are from the water source, closer to 9 if you are close)

Our water is actually great for keeping shrimps, we have a tds of 100ish, gh 1, kh1. As long as we remineralize our water to the correct gh, we can pretty much keep any shrimp. I personally keep most of my shrimp in 100% tap remineralized to gh 7 with salty shrimp. I keep my crs/cbs/mishlings in 50% tap/ 50% ro remineralized to gh 6. =) so far so good. (i keep 11 different types of shrimps, this is the first time i counted.... ..., lol soon to be 12!)
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Old 11-19-2013, 04:21 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquaful View Post
If you're getting the tap water from a faucet, most faucets have aerators (to save water), so it's already aerated! If it's from somewhere without an aerator, I personally don't intentionally let it sit around or aerate it. It's because whatever system I'm adding it to already has great flow / surface agitation.

I would check the expiration on your test kit. Tap water is usually within a magnitude from neutral unless you have exceptionally degraded plumbing.

If using a python, the aerator comes off the faucet when connecting the python. Goodbye aeration.
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Old 11-19-2013, 04:24 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquaful View Post
If you're getting the tap water from a faucet, most faucets have aerators (to save water), so it's already aerated! If it's from somewhere without an aerator, I personally don't intentionally let it sit around or aerate it. It's because whatever system I'm adding it to already has great flow / surface agitation.

I would check the expiration on your test kit. Tap water is usually within a magnitude from neutral unless you have exceptionally degraded plumbing.
The issue with shrimp is that even tho our tanks have great flow/ surface agitation, we can't add the water to it because the ph is so high that it would be a big shock to most sensitive shrimps. So we let the water sit around until the ph is closer to 7 before adding to the tank.
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:39 PM   #29
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I've never seen ph higher than 7 in Boston. That's crazy
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:43 PM   #30
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its always been ph9 right out of the tap in boston, both at my home and at work, and at my friend's house. And also according to the offical Water test for MA. But they go back to ph 7 pretty quickly if you let it sit.

but it changes if you live far from your water source.
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