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Old 11-14-2003, 07:16 PM   #16
Seamaiden
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What is happening when you experience the milky cloudiness is a bloom of free-floating bacteria (this is known in the trade as "new tank syndrome"). The more you mess with it, the longer it lasts, especially if you're scraping down tank sides and vacuuming gravel. What you want is to let them (the "freefloaters") "do the lemming", starve themselves out, while allowing sufficient time for the benthic nitrifying bacterial cultures to gain a foothold. Once the benthics gain a foothold in good numbers, you will have allowed an equilibrium to be established, the benthic bacteria (and your plants) will be the ones utilizing available nutrients, not the undesirables. We can include green water (free floating algal forms) in this equation.

Basically, it's all about balance. Since you have nothing else in the tank, it would seem you have much in the way of available nutrients, and these freefloating "critters" are able to establish more quickly than the benthics.
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Old 11-19-2003, 02:29 PM   #17
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Just curious how long this green water syndrom can last, if one choses to do nothing and let it run it's course. I have a moderatly planted 55g and have had green water for 6 months now. :?:
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Old 11-19-2003, 02:54 PM   #18
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What did you put in your substrate? Something has to be feeding it. Are you adding anything other than fishfood? WHat kind of plants do you have and what kind of light?
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Old 11-19-2003, 11:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCMurphy
What did you put in your substrate? Something has to be feeding it. Are you adding anything other than fishfood? WHat kind of plants do you have and what kind of light?
Might I also ask how much food you feed your fish?

Ive had green water before, I tried water changes and it just got worst. I tried blacking out for 3 days, and its all gone. No feeding whatsover. I think fish can survive without feeding them a maximum of one week for most. Heck, Ive got a 100 gallon, neglected tank with 2 goldfish, some feeder minnows and 2 captured fry(from local slough) and I only do water change once a month, and feed them when I can rmember them, about once a week, and they are doing great, hence, a lil scared when they see me as they arent accustomed to me feeding them. I dont scrape the algae off, i let it filter the tank on its on, and feed the fish, and I think I got a balanced closed system here(the algae provides food, then the fish provides food for the algae, and vice versa:-) No light, no filters, just indirect sunlight(even that it miniscule.

Ok, ill stop.
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Old 11-19-2003, 11:40 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firefish44
Just curious how long this green water syndrom can last, if one choses to do nothing and let it run it's course. I have a moderatly planted 55g and have had green water for 6 months now. :?:
If it is a new tank syndrome, it should disappear within 6 to 8 days. 6 months is a little long... In addition to whatever has been said before...

1) Get fast growing stem plants, and plant densely
2) Measure NO3 and PO4 and keep it at 5 and 0.5 ppm respectively
3) Add CO2
4) Reduce stocking level

Diatom filtration (with a flocculant) and UV radiation have been suggested to battle green water. But Sean is right, something has to be feeding it, and it is better to battle the source of it if it doesn't disappear on its own.
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Old 11-20-2003, 01:33 PM   #21
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Ok, here are the details on the tank....set up last May, 55g with fluorite and playsand combination substrate 2-3" deep. Mixed hardy plants-mod. density, 110wPC 6700k and 40w NO GE aquarium bulb on 2 cycles...down to 10 hrs. a day total. Low fish load, 2 dwarf gourami, dozen small tetras, a few cory cats and ottos. Filstar xp2. pH 6.4 to 7.0, gh 2 to 3, kH 0, nitates, ammonia all 0. 75 deg. F. No direct sun, MINIMAL food, NO additives or fertilizers. Fish are thriving, none lost ever. Plants are maintaianing, very slow growth which is fine with me, thats why I'm staying away from any fertilizers or CO2. Tap water has high phosphate, and soft. Tank was initially filled w RO/DI water (which I have for my reef), but someone on here said that that was so wrong for a planted tank.......using rodi water stripped of minerals and such, ( Good point) so I've gone back to changes with tap.

Here's whats been tried to so far to battle this green (and I mean thick soup) water: (not nesc. in this order)

1. up to 15 days of full back out......it came back
2. frequent 80-90% h2o changes........back
3. Floccuant (sp)? "crystal clear" .....worked for a day
4. reduce light cycles and change combinations ........back
5. upgrade to rena filstar filter from old HOB
6. doing nothing for 2 months...........no change, just a little greener
7. hours of starting into the green depths and cursing . both out loud and silently
..........you get the idea........Yes I know that SOMETHING must be feeding this stuff, but WHAT?????? The playsand?, tapwater phosphate?, 6700k light temp? I'm not about to shell out $100 for a diatom filter unless it is guarenteed to solve the problem. I still believe in low tech systems too....i don't even want to think about a UV filter.

Ok done venting for now...thanks
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Old 11-20-2003, 01:57 PM   #22
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The phosphate in your tap water is a problem and your water is very soft for keeping plants. I hate to say it but you almost need to go to a midtech system of dosing and CO2 supplimentation to get the plants growing fast enough to take up the phosphate. Any nitrogen that is produced in your tank is immediately taken up by the green water, hence the never ending verdant hue.
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Old 11-20-2003, 04:10 PM   #23
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High Phosphates and zero Nitrates are a safe way to neverending algae problems.
Regarding the Diatom filter, it is not guaranteed to solve the problem, but it can clear up the water which might improve your general mood and help plants to start growing and using those Phosphates faster.
I felt the same way as you did... $100?? But then I got a HOT Magnum for $40 and a 10lb bag of Diatom Earth for $6 and this is a great way to get crystal clear water. Plus now I have a backup emergency filter if the canister blows up one day. On the downside, getting it charged and cleaning it afterwards is a little bit of work, so DE is probably not for everyone.
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Old 11-23-2003, 02:57 AM   #24
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I believe (but am not sure, it's been a few years) that potassium permanganate is a flocculant (causes organics to precipitate out of the water column..?).
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Old 11-23-2003, 06:27 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seamaiden
I believe (but am not sure, it's been a few years) that potassium permanganate is a flocculant (causes organics to precipitate out of the water column..?).
That's new to me :shock: I thought it's a sterilizing agent that kills micro-orgs and in sufficient dosage anything alive, including the fishkeeper (pretty strong poison)... Well, always read the label of anything you dump into the tank :lol:
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Old 11-25-2003, 02:32 AM   #26
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Heh, you know it very well may be. As I said, it's been a while. I recollect it being quite the oxidizer (only used it once or twice when I had koi).. and that it cleared my pond of suspended matter quite neatly.. made the water rather dark, too. :|
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Old 11-26-2003, 04:13 PM   #27
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Forgot to add this...

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm
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Old 11-26-2003, 05:00 PM   #28
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It is a strong oxydiser, not a focculant.
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Old 11-27-2003, 04:26 AM   #29
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Heh.. was that typo on purpose?
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Old 11-27-2003, 05:16 AM   #30
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You mean... OXYDIZER? :lol: :lol: :lol:
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