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Old 02-27-2013, 12:48 AM   #61
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Got the filter today, wow it a beast as you already know. Cannot wait to get it setup and running. Sadly I am few weeks away from that.

Way to go bro! You'll love it.

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Old 02-27-2013, 02:18 AM   #62
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Way to go bro! You'll love it.

LOL at the gif.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:28 PM   #63
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So do you guys think I really need to build a spray bar? I don't think ETK has one on his tank, which I think is smaller than my 90.

My 90 is 48x18. I was thinking I would put the return in the middle so it could be adjusted towards each side of the tank?

I don't mind making the spray bar if I have to, but would like to decide before I get it all setup, I kinda want this tank to be a one time thing, setup and forget it besides weekly water change and ferts every day.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:47 PM   #64
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So do you guys think I really need to build a spray bar? I don't think ETK has one on his tank, which I think is smaller than my 90.

My 90 is 48x18. I was thinking I would put the return in the middle so it could be adjusted towards each side of the tank?

I don't mind making the spray bar if I have to, but would like to decide before I get it all setup, I kinda want this tank to be a one time thing, setup and forget it besides weekly water change and ferts every day.
I don't have 1 on my 75, I personally like the split design of the outlet that comes with the filter.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:50 PM   #65
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I don't have 1 on my 75, I personally like the split design of the outlet that comes with the filter.
Yeah I like that as well. I don't think I am going to go with the spray bar, I just don't see the need for it.

Do you have yours on one side of your tank or right in the middle?

I was thinking of putting my drain on the far left or right and the return in the middle.

Sorry for my ignorance and so many questions, I have used sump for so long, not 100% certain on using canister.
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:04 PM   #66
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I agree with Alipper. the FX5 split return is a nice feature. You can direct flow where you want it.

Another thing to think about: The reason I have the return and the intake in the same part of the tank is based on Amano's approach. The idea is to push water away near the surface of the tank, and then have it return to the filter intake along the bottom, bringing detritus (read: poop) back toward the filter. I think this idea breaks down with larger tanks, and it becomes more important to adjust flow in order to eliminate dead spots. The theory of having the flow along the bottom heading back to the filter is nice, but all you really want to do is make sure that stuff remains suspended long enough to reach the filter, while also distributing CO2 and ferts throughout the tank.

What I really want is a 1" set of lily pipes . . . any glass blowers listening? As far as I know they don't exist.
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:14 PM   #67
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Yeah I like that as well. I don't think I am going to go with the spray bar, I just don't see the need for it.

Do you have yours on one side of your tank or right in the middle?

I was thinking of putting my drain on the far left or right and the return in the middle.

Sorry for my ignorance and so many questions, I have used sump for so long, not 100% certain on using canister.
I have both the return and supply lines towards the middle as far as I was able to go, the center brace for the tank limited that. Then I have the 2 outlets for the supply shooting into the lower, front corners of the tank to try and eliminate dead spots.

I'm new to this size of a tank myself.
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Old 03-01-2013, 03:56 PM   #68
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I have both the return and supply lines towards the middle as far as I was able to go, the center brace for the tank limited that. Then I have the 2 outlets for the supply shooting into the lower, front corners of the tank to try and eliminate dead spots.

I'm new to this size of a tank myself.

The more I have been thinking about it, I have been thinking I would put the drain & return line, one on each side of the center brace.
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Old 03-01-2013, 04:32 PM   #69
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I agree with Alipper. the FX5 split return is a nice feature. You can direct flow where you want it.

Another thing to think about: The reason I have the return and the intake in the same part of the tank is based on Amano's approach. The idea is to push water away near the surface of the tank, and then have it return to the filter intake along the bottom, bringing detritus (read: poop) back toward the filter. I think this idea breaks down with larger tanks, and it becomes more important to adjust flow in order to eliminate dead spots. The theory of having the flow along the bottom heading back to the filter is nice, but all you really want to do is make sure that stuff remains suspended long enough to reach the filter, while also distributing CO2 and ferts throughout the tank.

What I really want is a 1" set of lily pipes . . . any glass blowers listening? As far as I know they don't exist.
Would be nice, expensive I bet.
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:31 PM   #70
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I agree with Alipper. the FX5 split return is a nice feature. You can direct flow where you want it.

Another thing to think about: The reason I have the return and the intake in the same part of the tank is based on Amano's approach. The idea is to push water away near the surface of the tank, and then have it return to the filter intake along the bottom, bringing detritus (read: poop) back toward the filter. I think this idea breaks down with larger tanks, and it becomes more important to adjust flow in order to eliminate dead spots. The theory of having the flow along the bottom heading back to the filter is nice, but all you really want to do is make sure that stuff remains suspended long enough to reach the filter, while also distributing CO2 and ferts throughout the tank.

What I really want is a 1" set of lily pipes . . . any glass blowers listening? As far as I know they don't exist.

ETK,
I picked up most of my supplies this past weekend to build the manifold. One thing I am still bit unsure of and maybe you can help me decide. What made you decide to go with 1/2 for each device rather than 3/4?

I was thinking about going with 3/4 mostly because setting up my reactor would go a bit better, but I can do it either way.

Just wondering. Thanks for your time.
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:38 PM   #71
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ETK,
I picked up most of my supplies this past weekend to build the manifold. One thing I am still bit unsure of and maybe you can help me decide. What made you decide to go with 1/2 for each device rather than 3/4?

I was thinking about going with 3/4 mostly because setting up my reactor would go a bit better, but I can do it either way.

Just wondering. Thanks for your time.
I chose 1/2" PVC since i found those 1"x1"x1/2" tees. If you find 1"x1"x3/4" tees, then that would be theoretically better since it would reduce flow less. Either way you can make your device loops attached to different sizes of tubing as long as you used threaded hose barbs in different sizes. I have ones that work for 13mm and 17mm. (note: you need a coupling that goes from slip fit to threaded)

My plan changed kind of a lot at the hardware store. I was planning to use 1"x1"x"1" tees, with 1" ball valves all around. However, those 1" ball valves are HUGE, and I would have run out of room in the cabinet. Finding things like the 1"x1"x1/2" tees save space by doing two things at once (reducing size and making a tee.)

Couple other things: You will need small pieces of pvc to glue things together, so just pick up a big piece of each size you need. Also, def pick up a pvc cutter. It looks like a big set of pliers. They work great, and you don't want to try to do all this with a hack saw. Also pick up some metal hose straps which you can use to attach the manifold to the cabinet. just a piece of metal bent in to shape to hold a pipe in place. I bought a bunch, but two were all i needed.
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:44 PM   #72
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Thanks so much for sharing. That made my trip to Lowes go very smooth. I think I got everything I needed, I am sure I forgot something. ha ha

What do you guys keep in your media baskets for the FX5?
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:55 PM   #73
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Here is what I keep in my FX5: Fluval Biomax, a handful of old bio media from my eheim 2213 (added to start a colony of good bacteria), a coarse filter pad (blue) and a fine polishing pad (all from Fluval). If I was worried about flow, i would remove the pads. The FX5 has coarse pads already in it, and I think they would be sufficient.

One more tip I remembered for building the manifold: when you test fit everything, and you have your design finalized, make check marks at the pvc connections using a pen so that you know how far in and what angle all the pieces need to be at when the glue sets. Then when you start gluing its easier to get everything straight and the right length.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:42 PM   #74
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Thanks for the info. I started to cut PVC last night, but as I started to sit down and figure this and that out, I was like, OK that part wrong, should have gotten that or this instead. Since local store 30 min drive, I will have to stop on my way home today with an updated list of stuff. Maybe this time I will get correct parts and not foget anything, but I find that doubtful. Still not sure on placement yet. My stand which I thought was large 35 inches high and 4 feet long is filling up quick, so I am unsure on placement yet, either on side or on the back.
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Old 04-12-2013, 12:24 AM   #75
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That would work, but you would need to use a flexible hose on both sides of the valve. In that case, it would probably make the most sense to build the whole thing out of hose, which is not a bad idea. You could anchor the ball valves to the cabinet to keep everything in place.

Here is another pic of my setup. As you can see, it is a pretty tight fit top to bottom. If you had to go PVC to hose to ball valve to hose it probably wouldn't fit. The whole manifold is 28" high as is.

Regarding control, i think the PVC valves work, although I have left them wide open for the heater and the CO2, and closed for the bypass. This seems to be about right flow for the reactor and the heater is happy too. I just use the valves to turn the flow through the reactor off and open the bypass when I start the filter after a water change. That way it just blasts the bubbles through and doesn't add extra gas to the reactor. Just have to remember to open the CO2 valve and close the bypass after it runs for a couple minutes.
This works great on my fx5. has anyone tried it on other filters like ehiem and sunsun?
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