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Old 09-11-2003, 09:30 PM   #16
mattrmiller
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So you dose every water change. Would this be included in weekly water changes? Does it hang around long, or dilute easily? Just worried about over dosing, that's all.

What else does anyone suggest dosing? My tap water has a lot of iron in it, which I mix with RO water.
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Old 09-11-2003, 09:43 PM   #17
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If you are already battling green and hazy water and algae you need to be extra careful with adding fertilizers.
Especially with NO3... your tapwater might be 0, but have you tested your tank water? Is your tank planted densely, and most plants are growing steadily? How is your stocking level?
You need to be careful, by adding fertilizer you can definitely make an algae problem worse.

Regarding the K2SO4, it dissolves quickly and completely.
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Old 09-11-2003, 10:16 PM   #18
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I will post my water parameters when I get home tonight, I have not checked them in a while.. probably should have.
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Old 09-11-2003, 11:33 PM   #19
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The only think I can see about my tank is the KH is really high... does this usually mean high iron? I do not have an iron test.

PH: 7.6
Nitrate: .1
Nitrite: 0
GH: 89.5-107.4
KH: 179-196
Ammonia: 0
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Old 09-11-2003, 11:47 PM   #20
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High KH means your water contains a lot of carbonates and bicarbonates, which buffer against pH changes. I believe this is not related to iron, but a good thing when you add CO2, since you will not experience sudden changes in pH.

Do you know what Nitrate 0.1 means? I am asking because my test kit starts with 5 ppm.

Regarding iron... it is difficult to test for it, and just like with potassium, most ppl just add the hopefully correct amount.
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Old 09-12-2003, 01:09 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasserpest
Regarding iron... it is difficult to test for it, and just like with potassium, most ppl just add the hopefully correct amount.
Additionally iron in the tap is not good. Iron in tap water is usually present in a simple ionic state: Fe3+, whereas plants need Fe2+. On contact with water iron tho Fe2+ is immediately oxidized to an unusable form Fe3+. If you look at any liquid fertilizers for aquarium, you'll find that the iron is chelated (KEY-LATED). This means an organic molecule, usually EDTA or gluconate, the chelating agent surround the iron and prevents oxygen from nipping away to it.

In nature, iron comes from the substrate (soil), where there is no oxygen present, and unoxidized iron exists... so despite your tap being iron rich you still need to add it.
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Old 09-12-2003, 03:17 AM   #22
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Before you go adding anything be sure to zero out all your parameters through heavy water changes...

Right now you are steering in a bad direction...

Know what you are lacking before you add !

Easy on the "Add this" fella's....... jeeez, all tanks are different

One important question if I might?

How long you been setup?
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Old 09-12-2003, 04:25 AM   #23
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Thank you to all who have helped. I have not added anything yet. I am not very impressed with the Hagen co2 system, I guess it would be better for some situations... just not mine. So I will be returning it and setting up a DIY. I have to make one for my larger tank anyway. Just kill two birds with one stone. The tank has been setup for a while now. I will probably be doing some water changes more frequently, until I pass the algae bloom. I appreciate everyone's help.
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Old 09-12-2003, 04:48 AM   #24
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what don't you like about the hagen setup?
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Old 09-12-2003, 05:09 AM   #25
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Well the reactor wasn't the greatest. I actually had to modify it just to get the bubble to flow correctly into the ramp. The reactor was huge on the small tank I have. And after 3 days I still wasn't getting that many bubbles. I am sure I set it up right. I am sure it is good for some situations, but I am going to construct a DIY...I think.
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Old 09-12-2003, 06:33 AM   #26
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give the canister a little shake
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Old 09-12-2003, 06:36 AM   #27
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I did, I just wasn't that impressed. The canister was pretty nice, but the reactor needs work IMO. I think a DIY method would be better.
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