Building my first reg!
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:23 PM   #1
Sugardaddy1979
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Building my first reg!


Well, I won a VTS402D on [Ebay Link Removed] Today i got a 7.5 lb aluminum CO2 tank for $45 at a flea market that has a single stage reg attached along with some other beer parts. Now time to build my post body. Can I use the brass parts at Lowes or do I need to use swagelock? Any other good first build tips? I'm trying to go as inexpenseive as possible without buying absolute garbage. So far I'm in at $82.50. Feeling really glad so far that I didn't settle for the Aquatek (Which would have probably been fine for a short term start but this will be so much better).

ANy recomendations for affordable needle valves and solenoids would be greatly appreciated. There are so many needle valves on ebay, but I can't seem to find the fabco or ideal that anyone here seems to prefer. Are there other choices? I'm trying to patiently buy good parts on sale, but I'm itching to get this thing running......

Special thanks to Oldpunk78 and Bettatail for the help they've given me so far.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:00 PM   #2
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Can I use the brass parts at Lowes or do I need to use swagelock? Any other good first build tips?
Yes, you can use those parts.

In terms of testing, just make sure you use teflon tape (an appropriate amount) or pipe compound and to leak test everything.

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Originally Posted by Sugardaddy1979 View Post
ANy recomendations for affordable needle valves and solenoids would be greatly appreciated. There are so many needle valves on ebay, but I can't seem to find the fabco or ideal that anyone here seems to prefer. Are there other choices?
Fabco NV-55-18 as you mentioned is a good needle valve for its price.

Most of the needle valves/metering valves on eBay are not correct for our purposes (you will have to check their Cv values on specification sheets). There were some stainless steel Parker H3L that were available before, but they are gone now.

In terms of solenoids, Burkerts 6011 are excellent solenoids.

For more part information, check out my Guide to Pressurized CO2 (linked in my signature).
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:10 PM   #3
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Thanks. On the Fabco NV-55-18 since it is 1/8" npt now, no need to run inline as your primer says right? To use it and a burkert, I'd use

1/4 to 1/8 reducer, then a street elbow, then the solenoid, then a hex nipple, then the needle valve, then the check valve (if I don't run it in line will probably do both), then either the JBJ bubble counter or the tube connector. Right?

I've socured ebay for solenoid and needle valve deals. No luck on those just yet.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:21 AM   #4
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Primer was super helpful btw. I read it fully and Oldpunk78 s guide and the noob guide on barreport. Still feel nervous, but I think I'm ready. Think I'll just buy a new Fabco needle and Burkert instead of taking a gamble on used ebay stuff. Any place that has better prices than others?
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:33 AM   #5
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In terms of testing, just make sure you use teflon tape (an appropriate amount) or pipe compound and to leak test everything.
DB forgot to add that you don't want to use pipe dope on your high pressure ports (if you go that route). You must use the tape on the high pressure side and any stainless components you might have.
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:16 AM   #6
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I plan to only use tape. Is that ok? Or should I use dope on that one joint going I to the solenoid?
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:38 AM   #7
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Tape is fine. I experimented with pipe dope for a bit, but found it too messy for my taste.
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Old 02-10-2013, 04:06 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Sugardaddy1979 View Post
Thanks. On the Fabco NV-55-18 since it is 1/8" npt now, no need to run inline as your primer says right?
Correct, you can use the NV-55-18 and mount it. At the time of writing, the NV-55-18 was not produced yet

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugardaddy1979 View Post
To use it and a burkert, I'd use

1/4 to 1/8 reducer, then a street elbow, then the solenoid, then a hex nipple, then the needle valve, then the check valve (if I don't run it in line will probably do both), then either the JBJ bubble counter or the tube connector. Right?
You do not necessarily need a street elbow after the reducer (I have built some setups that have it, while others do not).

The other parts sounds correct. You may need additional hex nipples depending on the connections you decide to get (i.e. going from the NV-55-18 which has female ports, you will need additional hex nipples). In addition, going from the needle valve to the bubble counter (or the check valve), you will probably need another nipple, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugardaddy1979 View Post
I've socured ebay for solenoid and needle valve deals. No luck on those just yet.
Patience

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Originally Posted by Sugardaddy1979 View Post
Any place that has better prices than others?
You can check your local distributors for Burkert and Fabco products, but I think you will find them more expensive than online prices.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugardaddy1979 View Post
I plan to only use tape. Is that ok? Or should I use dope on that one joint going I to the solenoid?
Yes, you can use tape only if you want. I like to use pipe compound (dope) on the one joint going into the solenoid to ensure no little pieces of teflon will break off and get stuck.

Though, as kevmo911 mentioned, pipe compound can be a little messy.
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A Primer to Pressurized CO2 and A Primer to Planted Tanks
Eheim Pimp #362 - Eheim 2213 x2, Eheim 2028, Eheim 2217, Eheim surface skimmer and Eheim autofeeder.
Victor Pimp #33 - HPT272-125-350-4M
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