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#1 | |
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Planted Tank VIP
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If you haven't read this article yet, I highly encourage it. It is long and requires a bit of understanding of biology and physics, but you'll learn a lot from it.
A Comparison Between Light Sources Used in Planted Aquaria This came from a discussion I was having with one of our newer members, collapse. He was wondering what impact lumens had on choosing a lighting system for plants. My intial response was that lumens are far more important than color temperature or CRI and should be a prime consideration when choosing a bulb for your planted tank. But then I re-read this article and fell across this passage: Quote:
The popular GE Plant & Aquarium bulb is only rated at 1900 lumens, yet offers a PUR (photosynthetic useable radiation) of 20.9. A generic 4100K "cool white" bulb has a much higher lumens rating of 3050, but only offers 20.5uE/s of PUR. Recently I switched to OSRAM/Sylvania's Gro-Lux bulbs (sold at Lowe's) and these bulbs have an even lower lumens rating at 1200, yet offer a PUR of 27.4!! In the ODNO thread, ridns replaced his 5000K Phillips T8 bulbs with these same bulbs from Lowe's and even though the total lumens output has decreased, his plants started pearling within 10 minutes! The high-CRI Phillips bulb he was using (Philips TL950 5000K CRI (98) F32T8/TL950) had a standard lumens rating of 2000, yet only offered a PUR of 8.9 uE/s! He was effectively increasing his photosynthetic useable radiation by over three times even though the apparent brightness of the bulbs decreased. Ok, so if you're still with me, what am I trying to say? Basically this, don't think you've increased the amount of light your plants can use just because one bulb looks brighter than another. Have fun!
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- Sam P -
plantedtanker in limbo - all tanks currently in storage |
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#2 |
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Planted Tank VIP
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Well there are plenty of views on this thread but no comments so far! I'm going to keep it up top for a while just to make sure everyone gets a chance to see it. There has been so much discussion about bulb selection recently, I think this is important information for us to consider.
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#3 |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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I don't know if I can attribute this to the P&A bulbs or not but; since changing to them my tank has pearled like crazy every day. Prior to this I was getting pretty discouraged because it didn't. I have also started the PMDD from Rex so this could also be the reason. What ever the cause, I hope it continues!
:hehe:
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Eheim pimp #128, 55gal 13x20x48, Eheim Pro 2227, CO2 injected, into the filter breather tube,4x 55w Pcs , 12 hr light cycle (sunrise/sunset simulated), Milwaukee SMS 122, faulty bubble counter replaced with M3 bubble counter..... moderately Planted, Plantex CSM+B and ferts
To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research |
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#4 |
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Planted Tank VIP
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It is definitely possible that the Plantex triggered the pearling if you previously had a micronutrient deficiency, but the extreme difference in PAR between the high CRI Phillips TL950 bulb and the Gro-Lux bulb you switched to seemed to illustrate the point very well. To support this argument, would you be willing to switch back to the Phillips bulbs for a few days and then back to the Gro-Lux bulbs to see if pearling discontinues and resumes?
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- Sam P -
plantedtanker in limbo - all tanks currently in storage |
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#5 |
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Algae Grower
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Last night I hooked up 2 commercial 2ft 2 light fixtures and put 4 of 20 watt standard glo lux bulbs in over my 26 gal bow front. I havent seen any drastic changes yet but the light was only on for maybe a hour.They really make the colors of the plants and the fish come out. I am curious to see what happens after a full 12 hours of use. Sam i notice on the packaging the bulb came in that it said the standard bulb was mainly for seeds and seedlings. Does that mean its got a higher output? What do you think that means?
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#6 |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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Now why didn't I think of that ??? I'll do it tomorrow while I do the weekly water change. This should be interesting!
:hehe:
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Eheim pimp #128, 55gal 13x20x48, Eheim Pro 2227, CO2 injected, into the filter breather tube,4x 55w Pcs , 12 hr light cycle (sunrise/sunset simulated), Milwaukee SMS 122, faulty bubble counter replaced with M3 bubble counter..... moderately Planted, Plantex CSM+B and ferts
To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research |
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#7 |
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Planted Tank VIP
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I'm not sure why they indicate for seeds and seedlings, but that is obviously in reference to terrestrial plants so I wouldn't worry about it. The standard Gro-Lux bulb is the one that was top on that list for regular fluorescent tubes. The Wide Spectrum looks a little bluer, and seems brighter, but only at the expense of some PAR.
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- Sam P -
plantedtanker in limbo - all tanks currently in storage |
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#8 |
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Planted Tank VIP
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I hope I didn't cause too much confusion, but I moved Here4TheBeer's ODNO discussion to a new thread since it was getting pretty far off topic for this thread.
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#9 |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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Sorry.... I posted the results of the above bulb test under ODNO......
:hehe:
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Eheim pimp #128, 55gal 13x20x48, Eheim Pro 2227, CO2 injected, into the filter breather tube,4x 55w Pcs , 12 hr light cycle (sunrise/sunset simulated), Milwaukee SMS 122, faulty bubble counter replaced with M3 bubble counter..... moderately Planted, Plantex CSM+B and ferts
To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research |
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#10 |
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Algae Grower
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you are right on about some flourscent bulbs looking dim to the eye but still providing a bunch og energy to plants. GE makes two plant bulbs. the popular GE P&A bulb is usually a "wide spectrum" (it says so by the label on the bulb) version one that emits more visible light, but they have another "narrow spectrum" that looks really really dim. almost like a pinkish purple black-light.
one important thing to note though: while there is not a direct correlation between light intensity and photosynthesis (if the light is intense but at the wrong part of the spectrum), the more intense the light, the better it is at penetrating the water, so while the GE wide and narrow spectrum bulbs might grow plants equally well in air, the wide spectrum will be better at penetrating to the bottom of the tank
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90g planted tank & 55 g planted tank/sump, with opposing 12 hr photoperiods.
Filter: DIY rapid sand filter w/ 5 liters Eheim effisubstrat and 50 pounds of corse filter sand, 600 gph pump. dump returns. Substrate: Gravel and laterite substrates, capped with Flourite and home depot sand. Lighting: 6.7 watts/gallon on top (2x175) of 10,000k MH, (2x128) ODNO GE P&A 3 watts/gal on bottom (4x40) triton t-8 flourscent Fertilization: Seachem liquid fertilization (iron and comprehensive), Tetra initial sticks CO2: DIY 14 liter yeast (seven bottles connected to a gang valve) 400 gph reactor (gravel vacuum tube filled with bio-bale and a powerhead on top) |
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#11 |
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Algae Grower
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the bulb that was talked about above is mainly for seeds and seedlings because it wont make things flower or grow fruit. you need different light for that, like high pressure sodium (which emits energy in a part of the spectrum that makes plants think it is time to grow fruit that is also really good for photosynthesis)
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90g planted tank & 55 g planted tank/sump, with opposing 12 hr photoperiods.
Filter: DIY rapid sand filter w/ 5 liters Eheim effisubstrat and 50 pounds of corse filter sand, 600 gph pump. dump returns. Substrate: Gravel and laterite substrates, capped with Flourite and home depot sand. Lighting: 6.7 watts/gallon on top (2x175) of 10,000k MH, (2x128) ODNO GE P&A 3 watts/gal on bottom (4x40) triton t-8 flourscent Fertilization: Seachem liquid fertilization (iron and comprehensive), Tetra initial sticks CO2: DIY 14 liter yeast (seven bottles connected to a gang valve) 400 gph reactor (gravel vacuum tube filled with bio-bale and a powerhead on top) |
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#12 |
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Algae Grower
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grow lux bulbs are good, but i have had lots of success with "Ott-lite" they are really bright for t-8s, and have a really high PAR
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90g planted tank & 55 g planted tank/sump, with opposing 12 hr photoperiods.
Filter: DIY rapid sand filter w/ 5 liters Eheim effisubstrat and 50 pounds of corse filter sand, 600 gph pump. dump returns. Substrate: Gravel and laterite substrates, capped with Flourite and home depot sand. Lighting: 6.7 watts/gallon on top (2x175) of 10,000k MH, (2x128) ODNO GE P&A 3 watts/gal on bottom (4x40) triton t-8 flourscent Fertilization: Seachem liquid fertilization (iron and comprehensive), Tetra initial sticks CO2: DIY 14 liter yeast (seven bottles connected to a gang valve) 400 gph reactor (gravel vacuum tube filled with bio-bale and a powerhead on top) |
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#13 |
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Planted Tank Guru
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I have 55 watt PCs on my tank. I'm currently shopping for some High PUR bulbs in the 55watt PC configuration. Is there any PUR data out there for these 55 watt bulbs. Do they make the sylvania GRO-lux in a 55wattPC bulb and who sells them?
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FILSTAR Pimp #2
75 gal heavily planted,50/50 Black beauty,Eco-complete substrate, Pressurised CO2 with solenoid, ph controller, AB Reactor 1000, 330 watts 9325K GE PC lighting,Ehiem Liquidoser, 2-Filstar xp3 canisters. |
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#14 |
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Planted Tank VIP
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I haven't ever seen any PUR specs on PC bulbs, other than the Sylvania 55w Dulux bulbs that are only available in Europe. Pet Supply Liquidator has some Plant Grow bulbs that are 50/50 tubes like reefers use, but instead of half actinic / half 10,000k, it is half red / half 6700K. I'm dying to try them out, but they are only available in straight pin (not square pin Panasonic) configuration.
__________________
- Sam P -
plantedtanker in limbo - all tanks currently in storage |
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#15 |
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Planted Tank Guru
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9325K 55 watt
These are the bulbs I'm using now in my All-Glass fixture. I like them a lot and they seem to have the wavelength peaks in the right neighborhood.
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FILSTAR Pimp #2
75 gal heavily planted,50/50 Black beauty,Eco-complete substrate, Pressurised CO2 with solenoid, ph controller, AB Reactor 1000, 330 watts 9325K GE PC lighting,Ehiem Liquidoser, 2-Filstar xp3 canisters. |
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