Check Valve & Co2 Tubing Question
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Old 02-02-2013, 01:39 PM   #1
xiaoxiy
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Check Valve & Co2 Tubing Question


Hey guys, I can't figure out whether I have a leak in my system or not, and if I do, I suspect that it would be the check valve to tubing connection that is leaking.

My tubing is 6/4mm CO2 tubing. Right now, I'm using the U.S. Plastics 1/8th inch viton check valves. My question is, should I go up to the 3/16th check valves, as 1/8th inch coverts to 3.13mm and 3/16th converts to 4.7mm.

Additional Information:
I'm worried about a leak because of how long it takes my GLA Atomic diffuser, with a built in check valve, to start up in the mornings at 1-2bps. I have to blast the needle valve before mist starts pouring out of the diffuser, and then I can my bps back down to 1-2 bps.

My atomic diffuser is, though, working and I am currently getting microbubbles out of it. Since I'm getting bubbles out of it, is that a sign that I don't have a leak?


Regards,

Xiaoxi

Last edited by xiaoxiy; 02-02-2013 at 02:23 PM.. Reason: Additional Info
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:11 PM   #2
Yankee
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That's not very indicative that you have a leak. It takes time for CO2 to build up in your tubing before its pushed through your automizer (hence why upping your outflow starts it quicker). Once the pressure is built up then everything flows fine, just like you've observed. Just up the working pressure of your regulator and see if it starts up quicker in the mornings. If you have a regulator that has a preset pressure then you can just start the CO2 an hour early so by the time you originally would like the CO2 to turn on - the pressure is built up and everything flows properly. If none of the above works, spray everything with soapy water in a spray bottle (mainly around the check valve since you think that's the problem area) and look for bubbles. I really doubt you have a leak since your automizer is working - it's just build up time!
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:23 PM   #3
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I heard atomizers clog easily which I found out later but I already broke mine dipping it either in hydrogen peroxide or hot water and large bubbles came out.

Anyway, my co2 was on a timer and for a week it worked and and then eventually it would stop and not start like what you're describing. I never really used it for that long before the above happened.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:54 PM   #4
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Don't adjust the needle valve. Let it go and it should settle down eventually through the day. Start mostly closed and work up from there.

And yes, definitely go with the 3/16".
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:40 PM   #5
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k. Right now, the 1/8th is holding up decently. I'll put in an order for a few of the 3/16th and swap them out when I get them in!

Any thoughts on whether I should get the Kynar or the Polypropylene?

Last edited by xiaoxiy; 02-02-2013 at 11:45 PM.. Reason: Kynar or PPP
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Old 02-03-2013, 04:47 AM   #6
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use polyvinyl or polyurethane.
and you can use a lighter to heat the tip of the air hose to soften it, easier to connect to the hose barb.
is it the delay bubble rate problem(when the solenoid power on in the morning), got taken care? didn't have time to check TPT the last couple days...
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:32 AM   #7
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It seemed to clear itself up when I moved from 1bps to 2 bps. I'm still not getting nearly the amount of mist from at 2bps as the GLA demonstration, so I suspect that something is still off about my setup (maybe a small leak post-needle valve?). I plan on trying these new 3/16 check valves once they come in and seeing if that solves the problem.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:00 AM   #8
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one or two bubbles is not that much mist, I don't know where you see the video, it is misleading, because you may see the part that the bubble rate has been dialed down but the diffuser still pushing out a lot of mist due to prior large bubble rate.

you can
1. cut a short section of the air hose, and burn one end, pinch the soft plastic to make a seal, plug the open end into the quick connector, and it is a "no pass" for the co2.
2. charge the regulator with co2, the HP gauge is 800 psi, the LP gauge is whatever the output psi that you desire(30-50psi).
3. close the co2 tank and leave the solenoid power on for 6 hours.
4. check the HP and LP gauge, if the HP gauge lower, there is a leak, if not, no leak.

I am pretty confident on your system though, It was checked.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:10 AM   #9
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Go to Lowes and grab some 4" cable ties. They're small. Wrap them around your nipples and tighten. Done. $1.40.
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:31 PM   #10
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Bettatail, I don't think there is a leak in my Regulator, and I've tested the CGA nut (PSI held strong after 6 hours). I'll run the LP gauge test after I see if the 3/16th valves fix everything.

The video is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ia2iYC96lo Look at that mist! Holy crud!

@ m00se: I tried the zip ties. For some odd reason, they caused my connections to leak.

Regards,

xiaoxiy
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:49 PM   #11
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it is misleading, steady rate of one or two bubbles per second can not push out that much mist.
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:53 PM   #12
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What's your working pressure set at?
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:58 PM   #13
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About 36 PSI.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xiaoxiy View Post
About 36 PSI.
Like I said before. Try upping your working pressure - that's very low for an Automizer.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:47 PM   #15
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Do you know what the cracking pressure is on those check valves?
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