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Old 02-10-2013, 07:18 PM   #46
Darkblade48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathman View Post
There's is no red loctite residue...ill try and see if my local mechanic would do me a favor. Thanks Anthony.
Since there is no red Loctite, it is a good sign. The red Loctite usually means that the two pieces are mated together permanently (you can still get the two pieces off, but it is more likely that you will damage the threading first!)
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:41 PM   #47
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I see smooth wrench marks on the stem behind the nut which means your pipe wrench is slipping. You need to tighten it up so it bites (also, are you using it the right way, getting the stem deep in the jaws and pulling so that the upper jaw tightens as you pull harder? Don't take offence, someone was gonna ask sooner or later ) don't worry about tearing up the stem since you won't be using it, and frankly, the more your wrench bites into it the better grip it will get.

Also, this may be a stupid question, but if you push the nut down the stem is there a hex/bolt pattern on the flange on the end of the stem? I couldn't get the acetylene fitting off my regulator with a pipe wrench but it did have the handy hex part which made life so much better.

Get a burly friend to help, either in holding the regulator or turning the wrench too and if all that fails, take it to a mechanic, any halfway decent mechanic will help you out.
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:16 AM   #48
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Mathman is not trying to remove the CGA320 nipple and nut that are on the regulator; the low pressure gauge is the object that is to be removed.
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:25 AM   #49
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Default Want to DIY a co2 reg

I'm actually trying to remove the LPG, the outlet connection, and the CGA 320. I have tried to remove both of them by just the ordinary human strength but I'm not strong enough I guess.

Ill try it one more time and I wk t be scared to damage the current cga 540. Sadly, there's no hex it at the end that would make this "easier" to remove.

Thanks guys!
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:22 AM   #50
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Ok, so I now have the solenoid, needle valve, and regulator... I'll need to get my hands on a bubble counter, but that can wait for a little bit.

I want to use swagelok pipe fittings for it, keep it easy to just order em all online.

From the reg:
-B-4-HRN-2 (Brass Pipe Fitting, Hex Reducing Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT)
-B-2-SE (Brass Pipe Fitting, Street Elbow, 1/8 in. Female NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT)
-Solenoid goes here
-B-2-ME (Brass Pipe Fitting, Male Elbow, 1/8 in. Male NPT)
-Needle valve goes here. (It's the Parker 2F-H3L-V-SS-TC, so it's straight thru, I want the straight thru to be vertical)
-B-2C2-1/3 (Brass Poppet Check Valve, Fixed Pressure, 1/8 in. MNPT, 1/3 psig (0.03 bar))
Then the bubble counter above this, probably a JBJ style.

Does this seem plausible? Am I missing anything?

Thanks!
-Scott
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:28 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathman View Post
I'm actually trying to remove the LPG, the outlet connection, and the CGA 320. I have tried to remove both of them by just the ordinary human strength but I'm not strong enough I guess.

Ill try it one more time and I wk t be scared to damage the current cga 540. Sadly, there's no hex it at the end that would make this "easier" to remove.

Thanks guys!
The Low pressure gauge and outlet shouldn't be that hard to remove, I found that I had trouble because I needed three hands, two to hold the reg and one to turn the wrench. I would use only good quality open ended wrenches to remove these not the average adjustable wrench (which I hate).

Again, if you can't get em loose, don't be afraid to go to a mechanic or a plumber and ask for help, most tradespeople are friendly folk and operate best with the addition of coffee, donuts or beer.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:37 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathman View Post
I'm actually trying to remove the LPG, the outlet connection, and the CGA 320. I have tried to remove both of them by just the ordinary human strength but I'm not strong enough I guess.

Ill try it one more time and I wk t be scared to damage the current cga 540. Sadly, there's no hex it at the end that would make this "easier" to remove.

Thanks guys!
For the low pressure gauge, make sure you get a good bench vise and grip onto the regulator before using a pipe wrench to torque off the gauge.

For the outlet connection, the same.

For the CGA540 connection that is currently on, there is a hexagonal part behind the nut that you can use a pipe wrench on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scbrooks87 View Post

From the reg:
-B-4-HRN-2 (Brass Pipe Fitting, Hex Reducing Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT)
-B-2-SE (Brass Pipe Fitting, Street Elbow, 1/8 in. Female NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT)
-Solenoid goes here
-B-2-ME (Brass Pipe Fitting, Male Elbow, 1/8 in. Male NPT)
-Needle valve goes here. (It's the Parker 2F-H3L-V-SS-TC, so it's straight thru, I want the straight thru to be vertical)
-B-2C2-1/3 (Brass Poppet Check Valve, Fixed Pressure, 1/8 in. MNPT, 1/3 psig (0.03 bar))
Then the bubble counter above this, probably a JBJ style.

Does this seem plausible? Am I missing anything?

Thanks!
-Scott
Looks fine, but you will want to double check to make sure your male/female ends are OK.
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A Primer to Pressurized CO2 and A Primer to Planted Tanks
Eheim Pimp #362 - Eheim 2213 x2, Eheim 2028, Eheim 2217, Eheim surface skimmer and Eheim autofeeder.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:30 AM   #53
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Thank you. I will double check before ordering anything. I think I got it right but id be irritated if I order the wrong part lol.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:42 AM   #54
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Default Want to DIY a co2 reg

Anthony,
Sadly this cga does not have the hex shape at the end...this one is a smooth round shape making it difficult to get a good grip.

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Old 02-11-2013, 05:09 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scbrooks87 View Post
Ok, so I now have the solenoid, needle valve, and regulator... I'll need to get my hands on a bubble counter, but that can wait for a little bit.

I want to use swagelok pipe fittings for it, keep it easy to just order em all online.

From the reg:
-B-4-HRN-2 (Brass Pipe Fitting, Hex Reducing Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT)
-B-2-SE (Brass Pipe Fitting, Street Elbow, 1/8 in. Female NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT)
-Solenoid goes here
-B-2-ME (Brass Pipe Fitting, Male Elbow, 1/8 in. Male NPT)
-Needle valve goes here. (It's the Parker 2F-H3L-V-SS-TC, so it's straight thru, I want the straight thru to be vertical)
-B-2C2-1/3 (Brass Poppet Check Valve, Fixed Pressure, 1/8 in. MNPT, 1/3 psig (0.03 bar))
Then the bubble counter above this, probably a JBJ style.

Does this seem plausible? Am I missing anything?

Thanks!
-Scott
You may have some clearance issues, and might want to extend the post-body kit out a little further. Some people will angle the kit diagonally outward on those Victor VTS's to get clearance. Also, the metering valve turned up-down, under a check valve, under a bubble counter is going to be *really* tall. That may work for you, or not.
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:15 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevmo911 View Post
You may have some clearance issues, and might want to extend the post-body kit out a little further. Some people will angle the kit diagonally outward on those Victor VTS's to get clearance. Also, the metering valve turned up-down, under a check valve, under a bubble counter is going to be *really* tall. That may work for you, or not.
Thank you for the insight! Do you think it may be better to have the metering valve run horizontally, then do an elbow after that for the check valve/bubble counter? That would really only require one additional part for me, and a relatively inexpensive one at that.

As for the clearance issues, I don't THINK I'll have an issue, but in the event I do, can I just use a nipple to extend it out a bit?

-Scott
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:21 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scbrooks87 View Post
Thank you for the insight! Do you think it may be better to have the metering valve run horizontally, then do an elbow after that for the check valve/bubble counter? That would really only require one additional part for me, and a relatively inexpensive one at that.

As for the clearance issues, I don't THINK I'll have an issue, but in the event I do, can I just use a nipple to extend it out a bit?

-Scott
I'd definitely run it horizontally if I wasn't going to us an inline check valve, and I'd probably run it horizontally even if I was. Then again, I hate that style of bc, so height wouldn't be an issue for me. It's totally up to your taste.

And yes, you can just stick a nipple in there somewhere.

By the way, for everything except the cv, the parts you're looking at can probably be found on Evilbay (and definitely if you're not picky about the brand) more cheaply.
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:22 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathman View Post
Anthony,
Sadly this cga does not have the hex shape at the end...this one is a smooth round shape making it difficult to get a good grip.
If you don't mind ruining the nipple, then a pipe wrench will do the trick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scbrooks87 View Post
Thank you for the insight! Do you think it may be better to have the metering valve run horizontally, then do an elbow after that for the check valve/bubble counter? That would really only require one additional part for me, and a relatively inexpensive one at that.
That is one option you can do. I run straight through metering valves in that manner.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scbrooks87 View Post
As for the clearance issues, I don't THINK I'll have an issue, but in the event I do, can I just use a nipple to extend it out a bit?
Yes, that won't be a problem.
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A Primer to Pressurized CO2 and A Primer to Planted Tanks
Eheim Pimp #362 - Eheim 2213 x2, Eheim 2028, Eheim 2217, Eheim surface skimmer and Eheim autofeeder.
Victor Pimp #33 - HPT272-125-350-4M
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:24 AM   #59
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Mathman- I don't frankly know if this would cause any harm to the regulator, so someone else may chime in if so... but I know with loctite on some of the parts on my motorcycle, it sometimes works to use a heat gun and get the parts hot before attempting. If you're very very careful, you may be able to heat up the nipple enough with a heat gun to make it work, but I for one would be very cautious not to heat the regulator directly...

Just an idea, but may be enough to do the trick.

-Scott
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:26 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevmo911 View Post
I'd definitely run it horizontally if I wasn't going to us an inline check valve, and I'd probably run it horizontally even if I was. Then again, I hate that style of bc, so height wouldn't be an issue for me. It's totally up to your taste.

And yes, you can just stick a nipple in there somewhere.

By the way, for everything except the cv, the parts you're looking at can probably be found on Evilbay (and definitely if you're not picky about the brand) more cheaply.
Just saw the post here lol. I really should get better at paying attention. Thanks for the info. Im definitely not brand picky, just bad at finding parts and swagelok has a good site for searching. Ill search evilbay though, always like saving a buck.

You mentioned you dont like that bc, which one do you recommend?
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