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Old 10-23-2014, 04:01 AM   #1
TECKSPEED
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Numerous questions for you!


What's up guys and gals,

So currently I've been letting a 20gallon Hugh tank cycle with just three otos, Yeah I know don't ask me how. Anyways the tanks been cycling for a good month, now I've gotten lazy and have been ei dosing ferts and dosing generic glutaraldehyde (metricide) on the corresponding days BUT I've missed a few water changes. With that all being said the tank looks decent, not overly green but green enough I'm not ashamed to show it.

So now to the fun part. . .while letting this tank cycle I trimmed my jungle val because it was getting too long for my liking and was growing wild, imagine that, basically I trimmed them in the typical way of cutting like a / or \ either way I just picked one. Well the tips have browned but how much brown is too brown and what signals a nutrient deficiency? Below you can find a picture of what I mean.



Now secondly, I know this will be a nutrient deficiency but what does it mean when your Anubias gets pin holes like the picture below?




Moving right along I'd like to also know what the #@?! these things are on my glass I've got snails gator in the tank and really don't mind except the little things in my glass won't [censored] disappear. Picture is below.




Finally to be fair here is a full tank shot and specs.

Lighting: finnex planted plus
Filter: eheim 2215
Heater: 100w
Substrate: dirted with eco complete cap

Plants: jungle val, various crypts, Anubias, Corkscrew Val

Fish: 3 otos, massive amount of snails. (livestock soon to come)



Thanks for the view,

- Kyle
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:36 AM   #2
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I've got those little white things too. I don't know what they are. I've thought maybe some kind of freshwater limpet, definitely an invert.

The vals - the chart indicates Nitrogen deficiency but it might as easily be the glut. Hard to say, I've never seen glut, myself. Also, if those are pinholes (I can't really see) then I would think it's Potassium deficiency. I've had it before.

Good luck with it!

Steven
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Old 10-24-2014, 02:11 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TECKSPEED View Post
What's up guys and gals,
So currently I've been letting a 20gallon Hugh tank cycle with just three otos
OTOs...?? they have almost no nitrificating impact on the tank as they are living on detritus.
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......dosing generic glutaraldehyde (metricide)
Why??
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Originally Posted by TECKSPEED View Post
...... BUT I've missed a few water changes.
Bad idea ...so you stuck in your cycle basicly
Quote:
Originally Posted by TECKSPEED View Post
Now secondly, I know this will be a nutrient deficiency but what does it mean when your Anubias gets pin holes like the picture below?
Iron deficiency
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Originally Posted by TECKSPEED View Post
Moving right along I'd like to also know what the #@?! these things are on my glass
snail eggs

No offense but the tank does not look to me as "sufficient" green after three months with that kind of light....what you need is CO2 !! and a nitrate test kit
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Old 10-24-2014, 03:03 PM   #4
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OTOs...?? they have almost no nitrificating impact on the tank as they are living on detritus.
Why??
Bad idea ...so you stuck in your cycle basicly
Iron deficiency
snail eggs

No offense but the tank does not look to me as "sufficient" green after three months with that kind of light....what you need is CO2 !! and a nitrate test kit
I can't afford to pump money into a co2 setup. No offense taken I'd love to get into co2 but don't have the money to do so. That's why I was using generic excel to supplement my co2 levels. What's your take on this, what are my options?
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:12 PM   #5
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Step 1 - get a test kit and post your water parameters.
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:40 PM   #6
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I can't afford to pump money into a co2 setup. No offense taken I'd love to get into co2 but don't have the money to do so.
Option would be a bio co2 setup...you need an empty canister , 500 gr. sugar , gelatine and a pack of dry yeast..I guess that set you back ..mmh..10 bucks or less
Then get some empty plastic box and do this with it-->http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paffrathsche_Rinne or get a flipper.
For tanks until 40g bio co2 is quiet ok.
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Old Yesterday, 04:01 AM   #7
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@powerplay85 I'm working on the water parameters. Should have them in the morning for you

@themountain I have gone that route and quite honestly it's a pain in the arse in my opinion. This tank is supposed to be low tech anyway. What can I do to reel myself back into the low tech aspect
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Old Yesterday, 04:11 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TECKSPEED View Post
I can't afford to pump money into a co2 setup. No offense taken I'd love to get into co2 but don't have the money to do so. That's why I was using generic excel to supplement my co2 levels. What's your take on this, what are my options?

Contrary to popular belief you don't need to go CO2, I too would like to go that route but am unable to afford it and don't run it at all, though I do use excel.

That having been said most likely it's the glute that is causing your vales to have issues. I've seen numerious people report that they have/have had issues with glute and vals. You can do one of three things here, 1 stop using glute all together, 2 ride it out and see if your vals rebound and become acclimated to the glute, 3 get rid of the vals all together.

Another thing you could do is increase the stock in the tank, 3 otos are not going to put a significant bio-load on it so increase your stock slowley.

SurfaCE aggitation will also help disolve some CO2 into the tank as well.
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Old Yesterday, 04:13 AM   #9
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I've got plenty surface agitation I've just completed a cycle not to long ago and never got around to getting more fish for the tank. I would prefer to go non co2 but since I'm dosing ferts I figured I should supplement co2 somehow you know?
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Old Yesterday, 04:18 AM   #10
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I would prefer to go non co2 but since I'm dosing ferts I figured I should supplement co2 somehow you know?
The vals may rebound IF it's a glute problem and that determination is a waiting game. Like I said I use excel, and I dose ferts, though I don't have vals (don't personally care for them), but some here have reported that their vals became acclimated to the glute.


Here's my tank http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=715146
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Old Yesterday, 04:20 AM   #11
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I know all about glute and what it is so I know vals typically melt but I've slowly adjusted them and worked my way up so I don't believe that glute it the problem they only turned brown like that after I trimmed them back.

Also if I stop ferts amd glute altogether what's the worst that could happen?
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Old Yesterday, 04:34 AM   #12
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@powerplay85 I'm working on the water parameters. Should have them in the morning for you

@themountain I have gone that route and quite honestly it's a pain in the arse in my opinion. This tank is supposed to be low tech anyway. What can I do to reel myself back into the low tech aspect
Nothing..that is as low tech as it gets...if you want your plants to grow with that kind of light you wont come around CO2...all fertilizer in the world wont change that.

And the thing with your Vallisnerias : They get brown when you cut them in half...thats completely normal.
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Old Yesterday, 04:41 AM   #13
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Well I wasn't sure if they browned that much when trimmed because otherwise they look healthy. The co2 gig really has me because I'd like to set one up but I'm just not there yet glut is Convenient for me because it's cheap and I make it myself so. .
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Old Yesterday, 04:51 AM   #14
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Sometimes the Vals can adapt to the Excel.
I had them years ago and every time I cut them like that the entire leaf would die.
If your light does not have a dimmer you will likely need to find a way to raise it.
You might get away with it like it is if you add several faster growing stems like Rotala.
The life span of Excel once in the water is like 24 hrs so it needs to be used every day.
You have low light plants in high(er) light. Asking for algae to happen is what that is.
You need to investigate water ferts. Once you do you will find the calculator for them
and on it is "EI Low light/weekly" which may work but I would prefer to use the regular amounts the calculator gives you for EI, but only use one dose of it each week instead
of the three doses it suggest. This would be close to what you need for Glute only tank. Then at the end of a week check the nitrates and if you do not have high nitrates
you can go one more week without a water change to an every other week water change. The EI needs a weekly 50% water change but with this low amount you may get by/w only two a month. But still at least 50% each.
Lower the light by raising it up off the tank or growing more stemmed plants and then using them to shade the low light plants.
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Old Yesterday, 04:53 AM   #15
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I think those things on the glass are just baby snails. They do look like limpets though.
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