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Old 10-27-2005, 07:28 PM   #31
zelmo
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I understood .... the recommendation is to put the reactor in the return line to the aquarium.

OK. I can do that. I don't see what the difference is between using the intake and the return. My current system eliminates the need for a bubble counter since I see them getting sucked into the intake. I haven't had any problems from a water flow standpoint. So why can't I keep what I have, put the reactor on the return line, and eliminate the need for the CO2 line to go into the reactor? If I am having a problem getting all of the CO2 dissolved this should fix it.
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Old 10-27-2005, 08:06 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zelmo
I understood .... the recommendation is to put the reactor in the return line to the aquarium.

OK. I can do that. I don't see what the difference is between using the intake and the return. My current system eliminates the need for a bubble counter since I see them getting sucked into the intake. I haven't had any problems from a water flow standpoint. So why can't I keep what I have, put the reactor on the return line, and eliminate the need for the CO2 line to go into the reactor? If I am having a problem getting all of the CO2 dissolved this should fix it.
If it aint broke don't fix it....if you're getting decent co2 concentration with what you're doing I'd leave it alone. The reactor design that Rex and I have are a bit different than the "conventional" ones that are floating about...those are just as well.
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Old 10-27-2005, 08:22 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgiadawgger
If it aint broke don't fix it....if you're getting decent co2 concentration with what you're doing I'd leave it alone.
But that is my point. I THOUGHT it was getting good concentration. Then I found out the test kit was bad. Unless I am pleasantly surprised when I test it later I think I need to get a little better. It seemed like just adding a reactor to what I have, without the CO2 input line, would do the trick since the system I have is working fine mechanically. (IE - just add more opportunity for the CO2 to dissolve.)
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Old 10-28-2005, 12:56 AM   #34
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Never have used a brass barb in my CO2 reactors. I'm not a fan of brass in constant contact with my aquarium water.

Standard airline tubing, vinyl, does get hard. But I don't use standard airline tubing.

Right now I'm using silicone to go into the reactor and polyurethane for the run.
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Old 10-28-2005, 06:16 AM   #35
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From a curious standpoint, what's wrong with brass? I thought it was more preferred than plastic. I currently have brass barbs everywhere in my piping/linning. Is there a long term thing I need to know about?

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 10-28-2005, 12:05 PM   #36
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From a curious standpoint, what's wrong with brass? I thought it was more preferred than plastic. I currently have brass barbs everywhere in my piping/linning. Is there a long term thing I need to know about?

Thanks,
Mike
I believe it can react with carbonic acid (co2 and water product) and release copper (a major component of brass)...but no effect from my end for the past few years.
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Old 10-28-2005, 05:34 PM   #37
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They also sell plastic barbed fittings with just about any dimension you may want, check out
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/cat...me=6918&Page=1
This is what i used on my DIY reactor, which is pretty much the same as what Rex built. It has worked well over the last year, but rex is right again that bioballs will reduce flow.
I was also playing around with the thought of putting another Tee along the reactor with a cleanout fitting so I could get in there if things get gunky. This being said, I built mine from clear 2" pvc and it can get some algae growth in there at times - I doubt this could ever happen in opaque stock.
Cheers to DIYers
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Old 10-28-2005, 09:24 PM   #38
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Well I finally hooked up my 1.5" diamater 24" high version of the Rex Reactor on my 150g tank. At one bubble/sec I see some tiny bubbles leaving the spraybar. Some of them dissolve before hitting the surface, some do not.

Do you guys think it's worth building a larger reactor? I can piece together one that is 2" in diamater, 24" high and see what happens, or I can make the current one longer. Which do you think would work better?

Thanks!
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Old 10-28-2005, 11:39 PM   #39
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You will always look at the little bubbles coming out on the end of your reactor, wondering how much efficiency you are loosing, you will be getting angry and miserable, unable to sleep...

Me I would just redo it 2" diam.
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Old 10-29-2005, 04:37 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasserpest
You will always look at the little bubbles coming out on the end of your reactor, wondering how much efficiency you are loosing, you will be getting angry and miserable, unable to sleep...

Me I would just redo it 2" diam.
Haha, that is my problem exactly Wasserpest! I will obsess over these stupid little bubbles until I get rid of them. So that means I will rebuild the reactor with 2" diamater pipe and let you guys know what happens.

Thanks for the advice!
Robert
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Old 10-29-2005, 09:38 PM   #41
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I have the same problem with bubbles coming out of the spray bar, my reactor is 12 inches long. So from what you are saying, 24 inches would be better? I'm sick of these tiny bubbles.
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Old 11-12-2005, 06:53 PM   #42
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Well I built my new CO2 reactor last weekend out of 2" PVC and it's approx. 24" long. It has certainly cut down on the flow into the tank, and I'm still getting some really tiny bubbles, but not nearly the amount I was getting with the 1.5" PVC reactor.

Any suggestions on what to do from here? I'm really anxious to finally put plants in this monster, but I want to make sure I'm doing everything right. If you all think it's OK to go ahead and throw plants in, I will!

Thanks,
Robert
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Old 11-12-2005, 09:14 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wob
Well I built my new CO2 reactor last weekend out of 2" PVC and it's approx. 24" long. It has certainly cut down on the flow into the tank, and I'm still getting some really tiny bubbles, but not nearly the amount I was getting with the 1.5" PVC reactor.

Any suggestions on what to do from here? I'm really anxious to finally put plants in this monster, but I want to make sure I'm doing everything right. If you all think it's OK to go ahead and throw plants in, I will!

Thanks,
Robert
Is it upright? I have mine leaning at a 20 degree angle or so...seems to churn the co2 better and the smaller bubbles that shoot down the tube eventually make their way back up to the top and get recirculated. Another option is to add a venturi loop.
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Old 11-13-2005, 07:06 AM   #44
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dawgger, do you have a photo of your reactor, I want to make that loop. I currently have a reactor that is 12 inches long and I feel it's not working as it should, so I want to make it longer one with Rex's design. Loop on the reactor is easy but where does the other end go?
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Old 11-13-2005, 06:17 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgiadawgger
Is it upright? I have mine leaning at a 20 degree angle or so...seems to churn the co2 better and the smaller bubbles that shoot down the tube eventually make their way back up to the top and get recirculated. Another option is to add a venturi loop.
It was upright and based on your suggestion, I tilted it by about 30 degrees.
Now I only see tiny microbubbes every once and a while, and they almost never reach the surface. As it gets later in the day though, there seems to be more bubbles.

So it looks like titling it fixed the problem for the most part, and I'm growing impatient at this point so plants are going in this week.

Thanks for the advice!
Robert
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