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Old 01-18-2013, 09:46 PM   #1
Elliriyanna
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Cycling?


I am currently cycling a 5 gallon hex betta tank with a 10 gallon in-tank whisper filter

I have been changing 10-15% of the water every other day and testing Ammonia and nitrates every 2-3 days.

I just set up my tank so I know I will need patience I just want to make sure I am doing everything right and wondering if everything is progressing as it should be.

So Far :

1/13 - Added Betta Thus adding ammonia
1/15- Ammonia .75 ppm , Nitrites 0
1/18 - Ammonia 1 ppm , Nitrites 0

I have an API test kit I am just only testing ammonia and nitrites currently. After it shows Nitrites I will start testing for Nitrates

Water Changes :
1/14
1/16
1/18
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20 long - Hatchling turtles and corydoras.

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Old 01-19-2013, 12:59 AM   #2
Diana
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No, you are not doing it right.

Here is the fishless cycle:
Cycle: To grow the beneficial bacteria that remove ammonia and nitrite from the aquarium.

Fish-In Cycle: To expose fish to toxins while using them as the source of ammonia to grow nitrogen cycle bacteria. Exposure to ammonia burns the gills and other soft tissue, stresses the fish and lowers their immunity. Exposure to nitrite makes the blood unable to carry oxygen. Research methemglobinemia for details.

Fishless Cycle: The safe way to grow more bacteria, faster, in an aquarium, pond or riparium.

The method I give here was developed by 2 scientists who wanted to quickly grow enough bacteria to fully stock a tank all at one time, with no plants helping, and overstock it as is common with Rift Lake Cichlid tanks.

1) Set up the tank and all the equipment. You can plant if you want. Include the proper dose of dechlorinator with the water.
Optimum water chemistry:
GH and KH above 3 German degrees of hardness. A lot harder is just fine.
pH above 7, and into the mid 8s is just fine.
Temperature in the upper 70s F (mid 20s C) is good. Higher is OK if the water is well aerated.
A trace of other minerals may help. Usually this comes in with the water, but if you have a pinch of KH2PO4, that may be helpful.
High oxygen level. Make sure the filter and power heads are running well. Plenty of water circulation.
No toxins in the tank. If you washed the tank, or any part of the system with any sort of cleanser, soap, detergent, bleach or anything else make sure it is well rinsed. Do not put your hands in the tank when you are wearing any sort of cosmetics, perfume or hand lotion. No fish medicines of any sort.
A trace of salt (sodium chloride) is OK, but not required.
This method of growing bacteria will work in a marine system, too. The species of bacteria are different.

1a) Optional: Add any source of the bacteria that you are growing to seed the tank. Cycled media from a healthy tank is good. Decor or some gravel from a cycled tank is OK. Live plants or plastic are OK. Bottled bacteria is great, but only if it contains Nitrospira species of bacteria. Read the label and do not waste your money on anything else.
At the time this was written the right species could be found in:
Dr. Tims One and Only
Tetra Safe Start
Microbe Lift Nite Out II
...and perhaps others.
You do not have to jump start the cycle. The right species of bacteria are all around, and will find the tank pretty fast.

2) Add ammonia until the test reads 5 ppm. This ammonia is the cheapest you can find. No surfactants, no perfumes. Read the fine print. This is often found at discount stores like Dollar Tree, or hardware stores like Ace. You could also use a dead shrimp form the grocery store, or fish food. Protein breaks down to become ammonia. You do not have good control over the ammonia level, though.

3) Test daily. For the first few days not much will happen, but the bacteria that remove ammonia are getting started. Finally the ammonia starts to drop. Add a little more, once a day, to test 5 ppm.

4) Test for nitrite. A day or so after the ammonia starts to drop the nitrite will show up. When it does allow the ammonia to drop to 3 ppm.

5) Test daily. Add ammonia to 3 ppm once a day. If the nitrite or ammonia go to 5 ppm do a water change to get these lower. The ammonia removing species and the nitrite removing species (Nitrospira) do not do well when the ammonia or nitrite are over 5 ppm.

6) When the ammonia and nitrite both hit zero 24 hours after you have added the ammonia the cycle is done. You can challenge the bacteria by adding a bit more than 3 ppm ammonia, and it should be able to handle that, too, within 24 hours.

7) Now test the nitrate. Probably sky high!
Do as big a water change as needed to lower the nitrate until it is safe for fish. Certainly well under 20, and a lot lower is better. This may call for more than one water change, and up to 100% water change is not a problem. Remember the dechlor!
If you will be stocking right away (within 24 hours) no need to add more ammonia. If stocking will be delayed keep feeding the bacteria by adding ammonia to 3 ppm once a day. You will need to do another water change right before adding the fish.
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Helpful hints:

A) You can run a fishless cycle in a bucket to grow bacteria on almost any filter media like bio balls, sponges, ceramic bio noodles, lava rock or Matala mats. Simply set up any sort of water circulation such as a fountain pump or air bubbler and add the media to the bucket. Follow the directions for the fishless cycle. When the cycle is done add the media to the filter. I have run a canister filter in a bucket and done the fishless cycle.

B) The nitrogen cycle bacteria will live under a wide range of conditions and bounce back from minor set backs. By following the set up suggestions in part 1) you are setting up optimum conditions for fastest reproduction and growth.
GH and KH can be as low as 1 degree, but watch it! These bacteria use the carbon in carbonates, and if it is all used up (KH = 0) the bacteria may die off.
pH as low as 6.5 is OK, but by 6.0 the bacteria are not going to be doing very well. They are still there, and will recover pretty well when conditions get better.
Temperature almost to freezing is OK, but they must not freeze, and they are not very active at all. They do survive in a pond, but they are slow to warm up and get going in the spring. This is where you might need to grow some in a bucket in a warm place and supplement the pond population. Too warm is not good, either. Topical or room temperature tank temperatures are best. (68 to 85*F or 20 to 28*C)
Moderate oxygen can be tolerated for a while. However, to remove lots of ammonia and nitrite these bacteria must have oxygen. They turn one into the other by adding oxygen. If you must stop running the filter for an hour or so, no problem. If longer, remove the media and keep it where it will get more oxygen.
Once the bacteria are established they can tolerate some fish medicines. This is because they live in a complex film called Bio film on all the surfaces in the filter and the tank. Medicines do not enter the bio film well.
These bacteria do not need to live under water. They do just fine in a humid location. They live in healthy garden soil, as well as wet locations.

C) Planted tanks may not tolerate 3 ppm or 5 ppm ammonia. It is possible to cycle the tank at lower levels of ammonia so the plants do not get ammonia burn. Add ammonia to only 1 ppm, but test twice a day, and add ammonia as needed to keep it at 1 ppm. The plants are also part of the bio filter, and you may be able to add the fish sooner, if the plants are thriving.
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:13 AM   #3
wendyjo
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Diana, it appears she's doing a fish-in cycle - she already has the betta in the tank.

Elli I would not let ammonia get up to 1ppm - when do you plan to do a water change?
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Old 01-19-2013, 03:47 PM   #4
Elliriyanna
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i researched the fishless cycle and honestly it was a bit overwhelming so i decided against it. i started with two feeder guppies but our lfs is horrible and they died so i got the betta.

i am moving up to water changes daily , the only reason i didnt from the beginning was a fear of restarting the cycle. also i know to expect an ammonia spike so ... yeah the number growing i expected.

i am doing a large water change while i am home tonight
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:18 PM   #5
mo2vation
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The fisheless cycle method, above, absolutely works. It takes awhile - having empty tanks (3 in our case) all planted, scaped and just gurgling along day after day, week after week.

But it works. Its so rewarding to see the Nitrites show up, and knowing the tank is a death trap... then they plummet, they are gone as the Nitrates show up.

I love me some yellow, turquoise and orange.

We had all three come out at nearly the same time - two yesterday and one this morning. Doing water changes and will likely start stocking the cleaning crew tomorrow.

So fired up.

- Ken


PS: The Bacto Bucket is so ridiculous, but it is one of the ways I cycled my extra filter media. Its loaded with ceramic noodles and foam, and an airstone and a heater... a friggen bucket, just bubbling away in the garage with an Eheim 2215 in it.... I'm doing water tests on a bucket.... never thought I'd be doing that. But it also works.
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:47 PM   #6
Elliriyanna
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Well I am doing a fish in cycle so its a little too late for that ...

Anyway ... when can I expect to see nitrites?
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5 gallon - Betta and ADF
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:54 AM   #7
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No one can really answer that for you - every cycle is different. Don't worry too much about when you'll see this or that reading and worry more about keeping your levels low enough that your fish doesn't die from the toxicity (which could be what happened to the guppies).
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:21 PM   #8
Elliriyanna
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The guppies died before the toxins rose ... I have cycled with guppiess before. So far my fish is doing well eating well swimming fine etc. I did order the safe start and I am doing daily water changes and feeding him just a teeny bit every other day.

With the last two changes I have it down under. 5 but I can't do any more than 50% changes. So I am doing that daily.
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5 gallon - Betta and ADF
20 long - Hatchling turtles and corydoras.

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Old 01-21-2013, 09:12 PM   #9
Elliriyanna
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Ammonia is at. 25 but nitrites are still at zero ...
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40 gallon - Misc fish
15 gallon - Axolotl
5 gallon - Betta and ADF
20 long - Hatchling turtles and corydoras.

Soon to change I am sure
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