AlgaeFix: Experiences, Experiments, and Thoughts - Page 3
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:55 PM   #31
DarkCobra
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Originally Posted by jester56 View Post
After reading the extensive information on this subject, I picked up the Frankenstein, "Fire Bad!" operating principle.
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The bad boy of the algae killers seems to be anything copper. It is indiscriminate in flora or fauna.
No doubt. Never bothered to experiment with it, by itself or in combo, and probably never will. Some of the other commercial algae killers are almost as bad. One common ingredient works by blocking photosynthesis. I don't think I need to say more..
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:43 PM   #32
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If you have your own experiences, experiments, and thoughts, please share!
I got hair algae growing in my moss wall and it was pretty bad. Everytime I pull them the moss goes along.

After asking Tom Barr I decided to try from a small bottle. After 2 weeks I can see hair algae dissapearing. I lost one juvenile endlers.

I bought 2 more 16oz bottles. Good product.
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:41 PM   #33
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10g with mild BBA 10drops of algaefix two days later the algae is dead.
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:18 PM   #34
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10g with mild BBA 10drops of algaefix two days later the algae is dead.
Did you directly apply the algaefix via syringe to the affected area or did you just drop the 10drops directly into the water in your tank?
Thanks
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:57 PM   #35
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Note, it does kill the green hair algae, it does NOT kill Caldophora.
Another alga that it did kill was a brown, likely diatom covered green brown hair algae that infested moss and aerial roots.

I've not seen any other species of algae that it kills, so it's highly specific.
Amano shrimp seem a bit more sensitive than RCS. Fish do not like it, but they seem pretty tolerant.

It has no effect on BBA I've seen in any tank.

It targets the cell wall channels and if you add enough of it, it'll kill plants too.
QAC's is another general name for the active compound.
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Old 03-23-2014, 04:40 AM   #36
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.....The active ingredient of AlgaeFix, Busan 77, is a surfactant. In more familiar terms, it's similar to soap; though this isn't a perfectly accurate comparison.
I'm confused, as usual. What is Busan 77? The bottle says the active ingredient of AlgaeFix is Poly[oxyethylene(dimethylimino)ethylene(dimethyliminio) ethylene dichloride].



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Old 03-23-2014, 07:57 PM   #37
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Busan 77 is the trade name for poly-yadda-yadda-dichloride, one of many names for the same thing, just much easier to type.

I agree with [Plantbrain], Algaefix alone has no useful effect on BBA/staghorn, at least with recommended dosage and method.

Some of the Metricides contain an undisclosed surfactant, and people generally avoid them for that reason. Ironically, the surfactant is likely Busan 77, or something very much like it. Such combos are well-documented in medical and scientific areas, the surfactant improves cell absorption of glutaraldehyde, and therefore makes the combo a more effective sterilizer.

So in principle at least, there is a synergy between Algaefix and Excel.

Though I've been using Metricide 28 for about a year, simply because I ordered it by mistake. The amount of surfactant is small, and the dosage even smaller, so the additional ingredient is too dilute to have any noticeable effect.

Dosing Metricide and Algaefix together, I may have noticed a small synergy. But it's too small to say for sure. Nothing like the obvious synergy between H2O2 and Excel.
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:30 AM   #38
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I used it to kill some pesky spirogyra tangled in my mosses no problem. However, I did notice that older bottles of the stuff don't really work so well even after six doses. So I picked up a bottle with a more recent production date and it killed the spirogyra after three doses.

Anyways, after treating some moss, how can I make sure that it's safe to return to my shrimp tank? I've rinsed the moss about ten times already and I just want to be sure there's no Algaefix residue left over.
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